Leaning Wall Direct

1 Stars
Crimpy
 HS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Triangle Crack < Leaning Wall  |  Little White Jug > Big Black 'un >>


8m. Fingery (often wet) moves on small sharp holds lead up the wall into the base of the much easier upper crack. Many variations exist, the upper wall on the left is VS if you use the arete and at least a couple of grades harder if you don't!
FA. Ron Townsend 1957

USER COMMENTS

All over with when you are a few moves off the ground. A grade easier and a adjectival grade down on its superior neighbour Little White Jug.
Steve C - 18/May/02

Another pleasant Burbage solo. It felt a little commiting after the initial hard moves.
Paul Boardman - 17/Sep/02

Jugtastic, do yourself a favour and solo it you'll only get pumped placing the gear.
Jon Greengrass - 17/Jun/03

Looking at the votes for this have depressed me. Can anyone give any logical reason why a few 5a moves to a break and a junction with a well protected Severe crack climb could possibly be a VS??
Steve C - 25/Nov/04

The description in older guides used to have this finishing up the wall to the left of the upper crack - this made it truely VS 5a.
Michael Hood - 27/Nov/04

The Froggatt guide gives it 'at least E1' if you avoid the crack/arete.
Swig - 04/Jan/05

VS 5a felt about right, quite steep but big holds.
Iggy_B - 09/May/05

Soloed this quite a few times and the moves below are def 5a, more of a boulder problem though then a route as its over when you reach the big crack.
Adam Moroz - 22/Jun/05

I climbed as suggested in Peak Grit East and no way is it VS 5a. As Michael Hood says the older guidebooks tell you to climb the face just to the left of the crack. Time to go back and try that way me thinks!
Link - 09/Jun/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 53
    hard VS 0 of 2
    VS 0 of 2
    easy VS 0 of 2
    hard HS 1 of 2
    HS 1 of 2
    easy HS 0 of 2
    hard0 of 2
    0 of 2
    easy0 of 2
    hard 5b 0 of 27
    5b 0 of 27
    easy 5b 0 of 27
    hard 5a 2 of 27
    5a 16 of 27
    easy 5a 3 of 27
    hard 4c 6 of 27
    4c 0 of 27
    easy 4c 0 of 27
    3 Stars 0 of 24
    2 Stars 1 of 24
    1 Star 21 of 24
    0 Stars 2 of 24
    Bag of ..... 0 of 24

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