Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 21
10m. A bold outing that weaves across the impressive buttress. Rumoured to be unprotected? Start under the arete and climb up and right through the bulge to a slot, then move right to another. Take a deep breath and finish direct.
Has the old bolt gone? It used to be ok E3,6a with it.
The original bolt was just a piece of rust stuck in a lump of rotten wood, I think it only survived about 3 ascents, did somebody replace it then?
I did it with old rust bolt, but also put a small friend in a pocket just above bolt, which seem ok. The bolt was crap, but now you will have to do the crux before you can place the friend. E4,6a.
I dont think we had friends that small in 1977 did we Con? But I'd practised a nut placement before the lead, where you there? Definitely a headpoint, not an on sight for me :-)
tried the on sight solo but fell off crux due to real dirty holds (was like that from the start, should have guessed). cleaned it at try the crux, then soloed it. excellent climbing.