Wednesday Climb

1 Stars
Strong
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Monk On < Ad Infinitum  |  Life in a Radioactive Dustbin > The Disposable Bubble >>


8m. The roof crack via a jam and jugs is easiest if you stay out from the crack as much as possible. A knee-bar might help.
FA. Pat Fearneough early 1960s

USER COMMENTS

an exellent route with decent gear to protect the hardships. theres at least two hard 5b moves to get established on the lip. shame its only a moderate after that othewise this would be a classic.
karl - 04/Mar/04

I think this really only deserves VS. It is a one-move wonder (5b is about right), but it's as safe as houses with a big cam stuffed up the crack. And after that it isn't even moderate. Nice though, I'd give it a star...
Tim Waterhouse - 05/Jun/04

It's a nice boulder problem... Much easier if you don't faff about with ropes and gear!
chris j - 21/Oct/04

...just watch your back on the horrible boulders below as you cut loose on that baggy hand jam...
Ed - 06/Dec/04

Just "accidentally" soloed this while demonstrating how to get the hand jam in on the lip. "Then you can get your foot up, grab the break and... oops!"

Certainly went a lot smoother as a solo than when I led it and I think once you've got the good breaks you could probably jump off easily enough. Such a nice route... I was keen to do this ever since seeing Best Forgotten Art.
Andy Buckley - 12/Dec/04

This is a bomb proof jam followed by a large jug. VS 4c in my book.
Andy - 28/Aug/06

5b move followed a hard pull up then mod climbing all over. HVS i spose but very safe wires deep in the back rather than placing cams in your the way.
Michael - 03/Jan/07

One of the very few routes you absolutely have to jam on... Boulder problem, not a route, but a fairly hard one for 5b.
Pythonist - 10/Jun/07

Fun as a boulder problem with a few mats down.

Climbing wise: Compare and contrast to Rivelin's Roof Route!
Fiend - 18/Dec/07

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 100
    hard E1 0 of 32
    E1 0 of 32
    easy E1 1 of 32
    hard HVS 1 of 32
    HVS 21 of 32
    easy HVS 5 of 32
    hard VS 4 of 32
    VS 0 of 32
    easy VS 0 of 32
    hard 5c 0 of 34
    5c 0 of 34
    easy 5c 0 of 34
    hard 5b 16 of 34
    5b 17 of 34
    easy 5b 0 of 34
    hard 5a 1 of 34
    5a 0 of 34
    easy 5a 0 of 34
    3 Stars 4 of 34
    2 Stars 17 of 34
    1 Star 13 of 34
    0 Stars 0 of 34
    Bag of ..... 0 of 34

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.