Overhanging Buttress Direct

1 Stars
 S 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Life in a Radioactive Dustbin < The Disposable Bubble  |  Overhanging Buttress Arete > Burgess Buttress >>

10m. Use shiny holds to climb to the edge of the overhang, step right to pass this and finish more easily up the fine slab.


Polish is making the start of this quite nasty.
Graham - 04/Feb/02

I don't think the polish is that bad (speaking as someone who's decked off the start of crack and corner!)
North East Nick - 16/Jul/02

The polished start is frightening in the wet.
SteveM - 23/Sep/02

Lead this as my second Severe last night (afer doing 20ft crack) placed two friends halfway up didnt seem to warrant much more. Nasty start but there is a small pocket for a left foot to the left and a bit higher of the very very polished start
Curlytop - 20/Jun/03

Seemed quite easy for the grade. The start has numerous alternative foot holds but the big polished one does still stick.
Woker - 13/Apr/04

There's still friction, even when wet.
Iggy_B - 22/Feb/05

Wouldn't bother with ropes for this; it seemed unprotected to the crux and is a doddle thereafter (the top half is no harder than the mod next door).
Michael Hudson - 26/Mar/05

Good route, start to the left of the polished start to make the slab a little more interesting
Big Steve - 10/Jul/05

Found this easy for the grade. Just one polished move at the bottom that required a little thought.
Mikey H - 06/Aug/05

Definitly 2 star. Easy in its grade (when dry). Didn't find it pollished really and the 2 cams as protection just make it a bit more interesting...
Al Whitworth - 20/Feb/06

There is a good #3 wire to protect the most polished step up at the start, but as has been said already there's more than enough holds to avoid the really glass like ones: more of a worry in your head than in actually climbing it me- thinks.
D Berry - 22/Oct/06

Horrendously polished start. Hadn't done it for a few years & it's got much worse in that time. Starting up the slightly steeper part of the slab a few feet right keeps the standard even & is much more fun
Iain Thow - 07/Apr/07

Climbed this in the rain. Didn't find it too polished at all. 2 cams as pro. Good fun and right on at the grade.
Thomas Jones - 20/Nov/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 93
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