Overhanging Buttress Direct

1 Stars
 S 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Life in a Radioactive Dustbin < The Disposable Bubble  |  Overhanging Buttress Variation > Overhanging Buttress Arete >>


Use shiny holds to climb to the edge of the overhang, step right to pass this and finish more easily up the fine slab - nice.

USER COMMENTS

Polish is making the start of this quite nasty.
Graham - 04/Feb/02

I don't think the polish is that bad (speaking as someone who's decked off the start of crack and corner!)
North East Nick - 16/Jul/02

The polished start is frightening in the wet.
SteveM - 23/Sep/02

Lead this as my second Severe last night (afer doing 20ft crack) placed two friends halfway up didnt seem to warrant much more. Nasty start but there is a small pocket for a left foot to the left and a bit higher of the very very polished start
Curlytop - 20/Jun/03

Seemed quite easy for the grade. The start has numerous alternative foot holds but the big polished one does still stick.
Woker - 13/Apr/04

There's still friction, even when wet.
Iggy_B - 22/Feb/05

Wouldn't bother with ropes for this; it seemed unprotected to the crux and is a doddle thereafter (the top half is no harder than the mod next door).
Michael Hudson - 26/Mar/05

Good route, start to the left of the polished start to make the slab a little more interesting
Big Steve - 10/Jul/05

Found this easy for the grade. Just one polished move at the bottom that required a little thought.
Mikey H - 06/Aug/05

Definitly 2 star. Easy in its grade (when dry). Didn't find it pollished really and the 2 cams as protection just make it a bit more interesting...
Al Whitworth - 20/Feb/06

There is a good #3 wire to protect the most polished step up at the start, but as has been said already there's more than enough holds to avoid the really glass like ones: more of a worry in your head than in actually climbing it me- thinks.
D Berry - 22/Oct/06

Horrendously polished start. Hadn't done it for a few years & it's got much worse in that time. Starting up the slightly steeper part of the slab a few feet right keeps the standard even & is much more fun
Iain Thow - 07/Apr/07

Climbed this in the rain. Didn't find it too polished at all. 2 cams as pro. Good fun and right on at the grade.
Thomas Jones - 20/Nov/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 93
    hard HS 0 of 32
    HS 0 of 32
    easy HS 5 of 32
    hard S 1 of 32
    S 24 of 32
    easy S 2 of 32
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    easy 4b 4 of 32
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    3 Stars 2 of 29
    2 Stars 10 of 29
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