Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 19
Gain the left arete by a traverse from the left and then sprint. The direct start is V7 7A+ and the sit-down an even harder V8 7B.
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One awkward and balancey move on small holds then a slap session on big slopers. Quality, but is it E1?
I agree with 6a but I don't think the landing is bad or any of the higher holds poor enough to justify E1. Good problem though.
Don't you believe it - this is about as E1 as they come. The start move is tricky and then you have a highball 5c lock move above an uneven slope that is rapidly falling away. Once committed to this, you will know the meaning of the extreme grade.
Ditto - you could take a nasty spill from the top lock if you decide to slap. Great route though!!. The direct is not as hard as V8, but still very good.
Still not sure... the ground below the route/problem is nice and level with no big rocks and it's large enough to put a mat on... I agree about the first few holds though... nice and crimpy. I got it on the 3rd attempt but had no chance at the direct start.
Remember, use bouldering mat=no E1 tick!The E grade is in the hard landing!
A good rule of thumb for grit E1 6a's is 'bruised egos only' in a fall compared to E5 6a's where 'very lucky to survive' would apply in the event of a tumble. You'd expect to walk away unscathed from an E1 6a (look at Banana Finger) - if bad landings and danger of death is what you're after, look no further than the E3 5b/E4 5c/E5 6a solos.
on the direct start how far left of the arete are your hands allowed to go because there are a couple of pebles that I may be able to use as side pulles.
as far left as you want mate. If you can use pebbles as sidepulls then I will have to stand aside for the better man!
The hard couple of moves are just above the ground. Sure it feels a little commiting afterwards but it's not too technical (5b?). Had a bigger adrenaline hit from this that I did soloing Motorcade (E1) at Froggatt!
not e1 only a boulder problem.the direct is not much harder.
Simple: E1 6a to onsight solo. V/B-something-or-other to boulder out above mats or spotters. Your choice really. Pretty neat little thing.
Not really a route. Save your ankles, and the eroding ground beneath the problem, and use a mat, and spotter. Excellent fun though.
direct not V8
I don't think the direct is too bad once you've sorted the moves out. Its a pig before though! It definitely went in EBs circa 82. About the same grade as Nicotine Stain
Does anyone know what the arete to the left (looking in) is? The one that is slightly overhanging and has a very flat top out.
The arete to the left is a pleasant VO- about english 4a
I found this very hard. In fact, I couldn't do it, despite doing Remergence, which is harder, the same day. What was I doing wrong?
Robo I have no idea, I couldn't touch remergence but I flashed the crux on this, maybe you need stronger fingers?
6a is about right I reckon. I used a sneaky pebble to avoid the hand swap on the little pocket. Surely the direct start can't be the same grade as nicotine stain? Will have a proper go and find out!