All Quiet on the Eastern Front

1 Stars
Technical
 V3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Burgess Buttress < Burgess Street  |  All Quiet Direct > The Busker >>


6m. Gain the left arete by a cross-hands traverse from the left and then climb it rapidly.
FA. Ed Drummond 1978

USER COMMENTS

One awkward and balancey move on small holds then a slap session on big slopers. Quality, but is it E1?
GCW - 01/Jun/02

I agree with 6a but I don't think the landing is bad or any of the higher holds poor enough to justify E1. Good problem though.
Joe Burge - 02/Sep/02

Don't you believe it - this is about as E1 as they come. The start move is tricky and then you have a highball 5c lock move above an uneven slope that is rapidly falling away. Once committed to this, you will know the meaning of the extreme grade.
Ed - 02/Sep/02

Ditto - you could take a nasty spill from the top lock if you decide to slap. Great route though!!. The direct is not as hard as V8, but still very good.
Dave - 03/Sep/02

Still not sure... the ground below the route/problem is nice and level with no big rocks and it's large enough to put a mat on... I agree about the first few holds though... nice and crimpy. I got it on the 3rd attempt but had no chance at the direct start.
Joe Burge - 09/Sep/02

Remember, use bouldering mat=no E1 tick!The E grade is in the hard landing!
Ed - 09/Sep/02

A good rule of thumb for grit E1 6a's is 'bruised egos only' in a fall compared to E5 6a's where 'very lucky to survive' would apply in the event of a tumble. You'd expect to walk away unscathed from an E1 6a (look at Banana Finger) - if bad landings and danger of death is what you're after, look no further than the E3 5b/E4 5c/E5 6a solos.
Ed - 09/Sep/02

on the direct start how far left of the arete are your hands allowed to go because there are a couple of pebles that I may be able to use as side pulles.
Greg Smith - 16/Sep/02

as far left as you want mate. If you can use pebbles as sidepulls then I will have to stand aside for the better man!
Ed - 16/Sep/02

The hard couple of moves are just above the ground. Sure it feels a little commiting afterwards but it's not too technical (5b?). Had a bigger adrenaline hit from this that I did soloing Motorcade (E1) at Froggatt!
Paul Boardman - 17/Sep/02

not e1 only a boulder problem.the direct is not much harder.
mark s - 18/Jan/03

Simple: E1 6a to onsight solo. V/B-something-or-other to boulder out above mats or spotters. Your choice really. Pretty neat little thing.
Fiend - 28/Oct/03

Not really a route. Save your ankles, and the eroding ground beneath the problem, and use a mat, and spotter. Excellent fun though.
Jamie Moss - 12/May/04

direct not V8
JR - 06/Jul/04

I don't think the direct is too bad once you've sorted the moves out. Its a pig before though! It definitely went in EBs circa 82. About the same grade as Nicotine Stain
Tony Walker - 07/Jul/04

Does anyone know what the arete to the left (looking in) is? The one that is slightly overhanging and has a very flat top out.
Oli - 20/Oct/05

The arete to the left is a pleasant VO- about english 4a
sloper - 21/Oct/05

I found this very hard. In fact, I couldn't do it, despite doing Remergence, which is harder, the same day. What was I doing wrong?
Robo - 21/Oct/05

Robo I have no idea, I couldn't touch remergence but I flashed the crux on this, maybe you need stronger fingers?
Matt Griffin - 21/Oct/05

6a is about right I reckon. I used a sneaky pebble to avoid the hand swap on the little pocket. Surely the direct start can't be the same grade as nicotine stain? Will have a proper go and find out!
Joe Costello - 17/Mar/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 19
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