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EASTERN GRIT

The harsh gritstone cliffs that form the rim of the Derwent Valley in north Derbyshire are a superb climbers playground. The magnificent quality of the rock, dramatic settings and an august history combine to provide a climbing experience that is unique in the World. Although the climbs are rarely more than 20m high the routes are action-packed and classic climbs are jammed shoulder to shoulder on these thin ribbons of gritstone.

ROUTES
2826 trad routes (M...E10)
116 boulder problems (VB...V14)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents

Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Wharncliffe
Wharncliffe has long had a bit of a rogue reputation as a grim place to climb...
142
^^^^
trad sun+shade up+down
30 mins
windy 43
Dovestone Tor
Dovestone Tor is part of a longer series of edges overlooking Derwent...
109
^^^-
trad afternoon sun uphill
40 mins
windy 73
Rivelin
The low-level, south-facing outcrop of Rivelin Edge is often ignored because of...
127
^^^^
trad lots of sun! uphill
12 mins
  58
Bamford
Bamford Edge is made up of a fine series of jutting buttresses set in...
134
^^^^
trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy 86
Stanage End
The greatest of all the gritstone edges, with over 4km of exposed rock, in a...
101
^^^^
trad afternoon sun uphill
25 mins
windy 102
Stanage High Neb
Stanage has routes of every grade from the easiest of bumbles to climbs at the...
148
^^^-
trad afternoon sun uphill
12 mins
windy 111
Stanage Plantation
The magical arena of the Plantation Area marks the beginning of the more...
308
^^^^
trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy 126
Stanage Popular
Most people's first encounter with Stanage is at the well-named Popular End whe
383
^^^^
trad afternoon sun uphill
20 mins
windy 154
Burbage North
Burbage North is one of the favourite locations of many climbers. Unlike its...
196
^^^^
trad sun from mid-morning level
10 mins
windy 196
Higgar Tor
Higgar is a small outcrop with a big impact and steep stuff is the order of the...
51
^^^-
trad sun from mid-morning uphill
5 mins
windy 215
Burbage South
The South Edge of the Burbage Valley has never acquired the popularity of its...
138
^^^^
trad evening sun uphill
25 mins
windy 222
Millstone
The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth...
136
-^^^
trad evening sun uphill
15 mins
restrict 239
Lawrencefield
The deeply recessed quarry (named after the extensive moor behind the old...
49
-^^-
trad sun from mid-morning level
2 mins
  254
Yarncliffe
A small sheltered quarry that is unfeasibly popular because of its great...
26
-^--
trad sun from mid-morning roadside
0 mins
  262
Froggatt
After the never-ending delights of the mighty Stanage, Froggatt is the second...
151
^^^^
trad afternoon sun level
15 mins
windy 268
Curbar
An edge with a fierce and well-deserved reputation as a tough task master. The...
202
^^^^
trad afternoon sun level
15 mins
windy 286
Baslow
Baslow is a quiet little back-water, lacking any of the great grit classics of...
80
^^--
trad afternoon sun level
10 mins
windy 310
Gardoms
Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular...
113
^^^^
trad no sun level
10 mins
  320
Birchen
Birchen Edge (not as it is so often called Birchens Edge) is one of the more...
162
^^^-
trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy 335
Chatsworth
Retiring and rather neglected, Chatsworth Edge is perhaps the Cinderella of the...
52
^^^-
trad evening sun up+down
10 mins
  350
Cratcliffe
Cratcliffe Tor is one of the most picturesque gritstone crags in the Peak and...
33
--^-
trad sun to mid-afternoon uphill
10 mins
  357
Black Rocks
Black Rocks is a fine but somewhat neglected cliff in the Southern Peak away...
101
^^^^
trad no sun uphill
5 mins
  364
 What do these symbols mean?
Averages, based on the largest buttress at each crag
Latest Comments
EASTERN GRIT
Rocking Groove (Lawrencefield)
"An okayish route. The rock is a bit suspect in places and the run-out provides s..." 01/Feb

Silk (Stanage Plantation)
"Snowball font 6c? A classic of the genre!" 29/Jan

Acid Reign (Rivelin)
"A truly brilliant problem." 21/Dec

Great Slab (Froggatt)
"I led this and the other slabs hereabouts on sight in the late 1980s but am now ..." 12/Dec top50

Boggart Left-hand (Burbage South)
"I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

Brown's Eliminate Direct (Froggatt)
"Right foot out to toe hook a good hold enables hands to be worked up the upper a..." 29/Nov

The Link (Stanage Popular)
"The bit after the overhang is the crux...how many onsites head up there with a c..." 28/Nov top50

Black and Decker (Stanage Plantation)
"Agree with Nai - the start is fairly hard, but not especially reachy." 27/Nov

Black and Decker (Stanage Plantation)
"I had no problems starting this despite being well short of 6ft. The reach for ..." 18/Nov

Dream Boat (Stanage Plantation)
"A good route with climbing as good as Daydreamer. One particularly thin pull on..." 11/Nov

Deb (Bamford)
"Called Crunchy Nuts in the BMC guide. Nice little route but agree with prev comm..." 01/Nov

Oxford Street (Millstone)
"Had no intention of attempting P2, but didn't like the ab option either so 'esca..." 01/Nov

Soft Shoe (Stanage Popular)
"Well protected with small nuts and cams at the top, fine wine top out which is e..." 01/Nov

Brightside (Froggatt)
"In response to Dave, you HAND traverse the break with gear by your nose." 30/Oct

Brightside (Froggatt)
"Where EXACTLY does the line go i.e. at which point does one move around the aret..." 29/Oct

Jaygo's Pipe (Stanage Popular)
"Sticking direct to the centre of the buttress felt quite commiting." 28/Oct

Too Much (Rivelin)
"...and it's very worth doing." 26/Oct

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