Databases >Search | Advanced Search
EASTERN GRIT

The harsh gritstone cliffs that form the rim of the Derwent Valley in north Derbyshire are a superb climbers playground. The magnificent quality of the rock, dramatic settings and an august history combine to provide a climbing experience that is unique in the World. Although the climbs are rarely more than 20m high the routes are action-packed and classic climbs are jammed shoulder to shoulder on these thin ribbons of gritstone.

ROUTES
2826 trad routes (M...E10)
116 boulder problems (VB...V14)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents

Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Wharncliffe
Wharncliffe has long had a bit of a rogue reputation as a grim place to climb...
142
^^^^
trad sun+shade up+down
30 mins
windy 43
Dovestone Tor
Dovestone Tor is part of a longer series of edges overlooking Derwent...
109
^^^-
trad afternoon sun uphill
40 mins
windy 73
Rivelin
The low-level, south-facing outcrop of Rivelin Edge is often ignored because of...
127
^^^^
trad lots of sun! uphill
12 mins
  58
Bamford
Bamford Edge is made up of a fine series of jutting buttresses set in...
134
^^^^
trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy 86
Stanage End
The greatest of all the gritstone edges, with over 4km of exposed rock, in a...
101
^^^^
trad afternoon sun uphill
25 mins
windy 102
Stanage High Neb
Stanage has routes of every grade from the easiest of bumbles to climbs at the...
148
^^^-
trad afternoon sun uphill
12 mins
windy 111
Stanage Plantation
The magical arena of the Plantation Area marks the beginning of the more...
308
^^^^
trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy 126
Stanage Popular
Most people's first encounter with Stanage is at the well-named Popular End whe
383
^^^^
trad afternoon sun uphill
20 mins
windy 154
Burbage North
Burbage North is one of the favourite locations of many climbers. Unlike its...
196
^^^^
trad sun from mid-morning level
10 mins
windy 196
Higgar Tor
Higgar is a small outcrop with a big impact and steep stuff is the order of the...
51
^^^-
trad sun from mid-morning uphill
5 mins
windy 215
Burbage South
The South Edge of the Burbage Valley has never acquired the popularity of its...
138
^^^^
trad evening sun uphill
25 mins
windy 222
Millstone
The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth...
136
-^^^
trad evening sun uphill
15 mins
restrict 239
Lawrencefield
The deeply recessed quarry (named after the extensive moor behind the old...
49
-^^-
trad sun from mid-morning level
2 mins
  254
Yarncliffe
A small sheltered quarry that is unfeasibly popular because of its great...
26
-^--
trad sun from mid-morning roadside
0 mins
  262
Froggatt
After the never-ending delights of the mighty Stanage, Froggatt is the second...
151
^^^^
trad afternoon sun level
15 mins
windy 268
Curbar
An edge with a fierce and well-deserved reputation as a tough task master. The...
202
^^^^
trad afternoon sun level
15 mins
windy 286
Baslow
Baslow is a quiet little back-water, lacking any of the great grit classics of...
80
^^--
trad afternoon sun level
10 mins
windy 310
Gardoms
Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular...
113
^^^^
trad no sun level
10 mins
  320
Birchen
Birchen Edge (not as it is so often called Birchens Edge) is one of the more...
162
^^^-
trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy 335
Chatsworth
Retiring and rather neglected, Chatsworth Edge is perhaps the Cinderella of the...
52
^^^-
trad evening sun up+down
10 mins
  350
Cratcliffe
Cratcliffe Tor is one of the most picturesque gritstone crags in the Peak and...
33
--^-
trad sun to mid-afternoon uphill
10 mins
  357
Black Rocks
Black Rocks is a fine but somewhat neglected cliff in the Southern Peak away...
101
^^^^
trad no sun uphill
5 mins
  364
 What do these symbols mean?
Averages, based on the largest buttress at each crag
Latest Comments
EASTERN GRIT
Impossible Slab (Stanage High Neb)
"If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

Gully Wall (Baslow)
"Avoiding the loose block needs a bit of a stretch and the top out, while on good..." 31/Aug

North Climb (Cratcliffe)
"Oak Tree Chimney (similar grade) makes a good approach to this route" 31/Aug

Outsider (Rivelin)
"Unsung gem. Until the BMC guide came out and banged on about it, rightly." 29/Aug

Cool Moon (Curbar)
"Tom De Gay was the first person to do it without side runners." 28/Aug

Bamford Rib (Bamford)
"shorties beware the bomber gear is a long reach away away, i couldn't reach it ..." 28/Aug

Heather Wall (Stanage Popular)
"The easiest VS I have ever led onsight. There are several routes I've led at HS ..." 27/Aug

Regent Street (Millstone)
"Great route, powerful then delicate then technical. Kept me in doubt all the wa..." 20/Aug top50

Flying Buttress Direct (Stanage Popular)
"out of the 268 votes, 26 are for E1. I admit that only 12 are for HVS. As i've s..." 19/Aug top50

The File (Higgar Tor)
"i'd give it hvs 4c cos it's steep and sustained. i led it onsight and am an aver..." 17/Aug top50

Flying Buttress Direct (Stanage Popular)
""Total votes cast 268". Look at the size of the E1 bar. Democracy has ..." 16/Aug top50

Knightsbridge (Millstone)
"lovely route. definately has a crux but never desperate and good gear plus climb..." 16/Aug

The Bear Hunter (Curbar)
"A beautiful hidden gem." 15/Aug

Black Hawk Hell Crack (Stanage Popular)
"Climbed as a second and was really looking forward to just relaxing and enjoying..." 15/Aug top50

Big Chimney Arete (Burbage North)
"Not sure about laybacking - the start is a good mantelshelf but can easily be by..." 12/Aug

Lancashire Wall (Stanage Popular)
"VS4c climbing but has a very reach dependent crux fortunately above good gear, f..." 12/Aug

Symbiosis (Stanage Plantation)
"Reading Bob's mention of "heart flutter" took me back to when I did th..." 10/Aug

Search for comments or
get RSS feed [XML] for this area