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LOFOTEN

This section of the database contains routes from the forthcoming Lofoten Rock due for publication in May 2008.

ROUTES
297 trad routes (N3...N9-)
67 sport routes (4+...N9-)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents

Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Helvetestinden
The magnificent west facing slabby wall that looks out over the Bunesstrand and...
4
_---
trad afternoon sun up+down
60 mins
windy
Merraflestinden
The conspicuous flat-topped peak on the left at the head of Kjerfjorden and...
2
__-_
trad morning sun uphill
10 mins
windy
Breiflogtinden
The amazing spire of rock that lurks just over the col from Kjerkfjorden and...
2
_-_-
trad     windy
Maslitinden
The big slabby wall up and right of the settlement of Kjerkfjord has a single...
1
_-__
trad lots of sun! uphill
20 mins
seepagewindy
Olstinden
The huge slabs overlooking Kjerkfjord have a solitary route. Approach by boat...
1
_-__
trad sun from mid-morning uphill
20 mins
windy
Ølkontinden
This peak lies to the north of the village of Hamnøy (which is 3km north east...
2
__-_
trad morning sun uphill
120 mins
windy
Reinesvaet
A huge barrel shaped buttress right above the road, just north of the small...
2
_--_
trad sun to mid-afternoon roadside
1 min
 
Nubben
Just to the south of the lovely little town of Ramberg and its superb beaches...
1
__-_
trad     dry in rain
Stortind
Stortind (Big Peak) is the impressive pointed peak which stands to the west of...
2
__-_
trad     windy
Eggum
A rarity on Lofoten, a selection of hard and ever-dry sport routes, tucked away...
27
_--^
sport sun+shade uphill
10 mins
seepagedry in rain
Rørvika
A small collection of routes in a dramatic situation dominated by the prominent...
13
----
trad+sport lots of sun! uphill
20 mins
 
Pianokrakken
Pianokrakken (the Piano Stool) is one of the most popular cliffs in the guide;...
26
--^-
trad sun to mid-afternoon uphill
5 mins
windy
Djupfjord
The road to Henningsvær crosses the narrow neck of Djupfjord on a causeway, and...
23
----
trad afternoon sun uphill
60 mins
windy
Presten
Lofoten’s most famous cliff is known throughout Norway and it reputation has...
21
_---
trad sun from mid-morning uphill
10 mins
windy
Gandalf
This near-roadside cliff is popular destination for Lofoten climbers, offering...
26
_---
trad lots of sun!    
Festvåg
Lille and Store (Little and Big) Festvågvegg are two of the closest cliffs to...
30
_-^-
trad sun to mid-afternoon uphill
20 mins
windy
The Coast
The spectacular section of coast between Henningsvær and Kalle is one with a...
12
_---
trad morning sun uphill
30 mins
 
Paradiset
Paradiset is located just to the south of the tiny fishing village of Kalle,...
64
^^^-
trad morning sun up+down
15 mins
 
Vågakallen
With its huge rock precipices on almost every side, Austvågøy’s dominant and...
8
----
trad no sun uphill
60 mins
seepagewindy
Øvredalen
This is the attractive slabby and sunny side of the valley, opposite the...
8
----
trad lots of sun! uphill
60 mins
seepagewindy
Kallebukta
Above the Kallebukta and the Kalle beach, are two small crags; Honnikornsvaet,...
6
_---
trad morning sun uphill
10 mins
 
Trollfestningen
Easily seen when driving towards Kalle from the E10, the Trolls' Fortress is a...
12
----
trad no sun uphill
20 mins
seepagewindy
Glåmtinden
Popular with the locals and visitors alike, this small but classy mountain...
3
--__
trad lots of sun!   windy
Sandvika
A collection of short and generally hard sport routes, in a secluded setting,...
18
_---
sport morning sun up+down
5 mins
seepagedry in rain
Urdstabben
A nice set of sport routes in a surprisingly quiet setting, considering it is...
20
----
trad+sport sun to mid-afternoon up+down
15 mins
windy
Tjelbergvika
A pair of cliffs on the same hillside (hence the same names) right above the...
7
_---
trad sun to mid-afternoon uphill
3 mins
windy
Finnvika
A fine buttress of excellent rock, in a sunny situation and only a short...
11
_---
sport sun to mid-afternoon   tidal
Svolvær
An amazing tower of rock perched on the hillside behind the areas main town,...
12
----
trad sun+shade uphill
40 mins
windy
 What do these symbols mean?
Averages, based on the largest buttress at each crag
Latest Comments
LOFOTEN
Bare blåbær (Djupfjord)
"The approach takes average 90minutes. The update has a new descent described, it..." 31/Aug top50

Coley Smoke (Djupfjord)
"Agree with comment above. But a nice alterative if the queue on blåbær is too lo..." 16/Aug

Korstoget (Presten)
"Very nice up to Storhylla, pitch 5 and 6 are OK, after that the quality drops dr..." 04/Aug top50

Korstoget (Presten)
"An excellent link-up (with a 7- crux) is the first 4 pitches of Korståget (to St..." 29/Jul top50

Vårkåt (The Coast)
"Regarding "Den sista Sommeren": We did probably the same last pitch as..." 26/Jul

Puffrisset (Kallebukta)
"Pitch 3 is bold, but not very hard, as we climbed it in the rain! I read the bit..." 17/Jul top50

Forsida (Svolvær)
"Climbed it in quite wet and cold conditions but still good fun. Didn't find p5 h..." 28/Jun top50

Elezeus Hylla (Festvåg)
"Flaring cracks and big holds plus an overhanging start. Quite strenuous for a 5+..." 14/Jun

Direkte-Innsteget (Glåmtinden)
"Its a nice pitch and it would be a shame if climbers dismissed it as being too e..." 28/Sep

Puffrisset (Kallebukta)
"It was Alan and Mark who thought it E2 5b, I said E1 5a when dirty and HVS 5a wh..." 11/Aug top50

Puffrisset (Kallebukta)
"If you could retract your original comment then about it being e2 5b it would be..." 11/Aug top50

Puffrisset (Kallebukta)
"Funnily enough we thought it HVS 5a, Alan and Mark did it at the start of last s..." 08/Aug top50

Puffrisset (Kallebukta)
"Chris, you've written enough guidebooks and climbed enough routes to realise tha..." 08/Aug top50

Recht Rinne (Breiflogtinden)
"This route - or a variation of it - was climbed by Svein Smelvær and Bjørn Hanch..." 31/Jul

Himmelen kan vente (Presten)
"This route is well worth climbing. As good as "Vestpillaren" but with..." 29/Jul top50

Variasjon til en variasjon (Presten)
"Very nice little var - a good way to pass slower parties on pitch 3 - well worth..." 15/Jul

Ingen sommerferie (Pianokrakken)
"Well this is not wrongly described actually, but the grade on the last pitch is ..." 22/Jun

Gandalf's kamin (Gandalf)
"Just wondering if the rout is 5+, or just a 5 ?" 15/Jun

Gammelosten (Festvåg)
"A fun variant (giving a 3rd climb once you've slogged up to the crag) is to clim..." 25/May

Turboelskeren (Sandvika)
"Crux is the first move. Very easy slope climbing follows, highly enjoyable!" 30/Apr top50

South West Buttress (Olstinden)
"Did this in early August 08 - this is now three months later so the details are ..." 11/Nov

Mossorienteraren (Urdstabben)
"And I did it as one pitch. I am pretty shure of it beeing longer than 40m also." 11/Nov

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