LOFOTEN

This section of the database contains routes from the forthcoming Lofoten Rock due for publication in May 2008.

Routes

297 trad routes (N3...N9-)
67 sport routes (4+...N9-)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade		 Approach walk Other
Helvetestinden
The magnificent west facing slabby wall that looks out over the Bunesstrand and...		 4
_---
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

60 mins
Windy
Merraflestinden
The conspicuous flat-topped peak on the left at the head of Kjerfjorden and...		 2
__-_
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins
Windy
Breiflogtinden
The amazing spire of rock that lurks just over the col from Kjerkfjorden and...		 2
_-_-
Trad
    
Windy
Maslitinden
The big slabby wall up and right of the settlement of Kjerkfjord has a single...		 1
_-__
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins
Seepage
Windy
Olstinden
The huge slabs overlooking Kjerkfjord have a solitary route. Approach by boat...		 1
_-__
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

20 mins
Windy
Ølkontinden
This peak lies to the north of the village of Hamnøy (which is 3km north east...		 2
__-_
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

120 mins
Windy
Reinesvaet
A huge barrel shaped buttress right above the road, just north of the small...		 2
_--_
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Roadside

1 min

  
Nubben
Just to the south of the lovely little town of Ramberg and its superb beaches...		 1
__-_
Trad
    
Dry in the Rain
Stortind
Stortind (Big Peak) is the impressive pointed peak which stands to the west of...		 2
__-_
Trad
    
Windy
Eggum
A rarity on Lofoten, a selection of hard and ever-dry sport routes, tucked away...		 27
_--^
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

10 mins
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Rørvika
A small collection of routes in a dramatic situation dominated by the prominent...		 13
----
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

  
Pianokrakken
Pianokrakken (the Piano Stool) is one of the most popular cliffs in the guide;...		 26
--^-
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

5 mins
Windy
Djupfjord
The road to Henningsvær crosses the narrow neck of Djupfjord on a causeway, and...		 23
----
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

60 mins
Windy
Presten
Lofoten’s most famous cliff is known throughout Norway and it reputation has...		 21
_---
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

10 mins
Windy
Gandalf
This near-roadside cliff is popular destination for Lofoten climbers, offering...		 26
_---
Trad
Lots of sun!
    
Festvåg
Lille and Store (Little and Big) Festvågvegg are two of the closest cliffs to...		 30
_-^-
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

20 mins
Windy
The Coast
The spectacular section of coast between Henningsvær and Kalle is one with a...		 12
_---
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

30 mins

  
Paradiset
Paradiset is located just to the south of the tiny fishing village of Kalle,...		 64
^^^-
Trad
Morning sun
Up and Down

15 mins

  
Vågakallen
With its huge rock precipices on almost every side, Austvågøy’s dominant and...		 8
----
Trad
No sun
Uphill

60 mins
Seepage
Windy
Øvredalen
This is the attractive slabby and sunny side of the valley, opposite the...		 8
----
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

60 mins
Seepage
Windy
Kallebukta
Above the Kallebukta and the Kalle beach, are two small crags; Honnikornsvaet,...		 6
_---
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

  
Trollfestningen
Easily seen when driving towards Kalle from the E10, the Trolls' Fortress is a...		 12
----
Trad
No sun
Uphill

20 mins
Seepage
Windy
Glåmtinden
Popular with the locals and visitors alike, this small but classy mountain...		 3
--__
Trad
Lots of sun!
  
Windy
Sandvika
A collection of short and generally hard sport routes, in a secluded setting,...		 18
_---
Sport
Morning sun
Up and Down

5 mins
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Urdstabben
A nice set of sport routes in a surprisingly quiet setting, considering it is...		 20
----
Trad and Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and Down

15 mins
Windy
Tjelbergvika
A pair of cliffs on the same hillside (hence the same names) right above the...		 7
_---
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

3 mins
Windy
Finnvika
A fine buttress of excellent rock, in a sunny situation and only a short...		 11
_---
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
  
Tidal
Svolvær
An amazing tower of rock perched on the hillside behind the areas main town,...		 12
----
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

40 mins
Windy

  • Latest Comments

    For LOFOTEN

    Storpillaren (Vågakallen)
    "Hello, It's question about rack recommendation, assuming we intend to climmb li..." 22/Mar top50

    Svenske diedret (Paradiset)
    "Climbed this on 1 August 1982 and noted "possible 1st lead" in my clim..." 09/Aug

    Living in Paradise (Paradiset)
    "We prefer approaching past the route Demonstranten." 02/Aug top50

    Bare blåbær (Djupfjord)
    "The advice on abseiling, both in the guide and the update, is out of date. The ..." 31/Jul top50

    Luksusdyret (Festvåg)
    "The second pitch was fine but beware of the three loose blocks." 18/Jul

    Blod eller gull (Festvåg)
    "The offwidth crack in the first pitch is pretty hard. At least if you are not us..." 15/Jul

    Gamle rev (Gandalf)
    "Lofoten's finest E0? Great juggy climbing - lots of fun." 13/Jul top50

    Korstoget (Presten)
    "On the crux pitch, after the 3rd bolt, go "right and up" rather than &..." 26/Jun top50

    Forsida (Svolvær)
    "Nice and easy, but so many people. My god, better to do it at midnight." 29/May top50

    Wee Beastie (Vågakallen)
    "The first pitch is harder than grade 4. It even has a bolt in middle of totally ..." 23/May

    Applecake Arete (Pianokrakken)
    "Nice Climb" 27/Sep top50

    Vestpillaren Original Start (Presten)
    "We did the Original start the next day after climbing Vestpilaren normal start (..." 06/Aug

    Pianohandler Lunds rute (Pianokrakken)
    "Great route, well worthy of it's top 50 status. Varied climbing. Top of pitch 3 ..." 26/Jul top50

    Vestpillaren (Presten)
    "A great route, some beautiful sustained pitches but there are also a number grot..." 25/Jul top50

    Spurven/Colbrien (Trollfestningen)
    "I thought it was more sensible to climb the 1st and 2nd pitch of Spurven and the..." 23/Jul

    Puffrisset (Kallebukta)
    "No fixed gear at the top of P2 (Jul 11). We looked for the abseil point at the t..." 17/Jul top50

    Bare blåbær (Djupfjord)
    "Every route in the guide assumes that you have 2x60 meter ropes. In that case yo..." 12/Jul top50

    Tranedansen (Trollfestningen)
    "We put up a new route on the next summit to the south of Tranedansen. It's the o..." 10/Jul

    Fire forsøk (Festvåg)
    "No big cams needed on the last pitch. One big cam (friend #3.5 or #4) helps on t..." 27/Jun

    Ørneryggen (Glåmtinden)
    "We climbed a Variation some 5meters to the right of the Original route. The Vari..." 07/Jun

    Coley Smoke (Djupfjord)
    "Agree with comment above. But a nice alterative if the queue on blåbær is too lo..." 16/Aug

    Korstoget (Presten)
    "Very nice up to Storhylla, pitch 5 and 6 are OK, after that the quality drops dr..." 04/Aug top50

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