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COSTA BLANCA

The muts nuts as far as easily accessible sun rock is concerned. Short or long, trad or sport, roadside or mountain, polished or unclimbed - its got the lot!

ROUTES
2602 sport routes (3...8c+)
10 dws routes (6a+...6c+)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents

Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Leyva
Although a long way south of the popular climbing areas around Benidorm and...
84
-^^^
sport lots of sun! uphill
40 mins
  46
La Panocha
Behind the typical Spanish city of Murcia is a long range of hills. The high...
78
-^^-
sport sun+shade uphill
5 mins
windy 54
Orihuela
Around the old town of Orihuela and its satellite of Redovan are a series of...
81
-^^-
sport sun to mid-afternoon uphill
20 mins
windy 64
Marin
To the west of the small town of Elda is a prominent dome of cream-coloured...
50
-^^-
sport sun to mid-afternoon up+down
15 mins
dry in rain 80
Salinas
Salinas is a fine crag which is beautifully situated, superbly well-geared and...
74
-^^^
sport morning sun uphill
10 mins
  86
Sax - Penas del Rey
Also known as Cabreras, Sax is an impressive series of towers perched high on...
58
-^^-
sport sun to mid-afternoon uphill
15 mins
windy 94
Sierra Magdalena
A small selection of routes in a rather scruffy setting. Although probably not...
58
-^^-
sport lots of sun! uphill
10 mins
windy 102
Pena del Corb
A short distance north of Petrer/Elda is this face of rock, ‘the tower of the...
20
---_
sport sun from mid-morning uphill
20 mins
windy 108
Pena Rubia
Not the most exciting crag in the guide but it has been quite popular in the...
57
-^^^
sport afternoon sun level
5 mins
windy 112
Forada
This is a fine crag which has a mega north-facing wall which gives some of the...
112
-^^^
sport no sun level
10 mins
seepagedry in rain 118
Ibi
A closely packed set of well bolted routes running steeply up the side of a...
43
-^^-
sport evening sun uphill
5 mins
windy 130
Reconco
Reconco is a superb crag with a good range of middle grade routes on perfect,...
35
_^^-
sport lots of sun! uphill
20 mins
windy 134
Agujas Rojas
Agujas Rojas is a small collection of pinnacles, in a picturesque woodland...
36
---^
sport afternoon sun uphill
5 mins
  138
Alcoi
A steep and sunny cliff that has many hard routes. The setting, looking out...
35
_^-^
sport sun to mid-afternoon   seepagedry in rain 144
Cabezon de Oro
Travelling north from Alicante, the first mountain of any significance is the...
21
_--^
sport evening sun uphill
20 mins
seepagedry in rain 147
Sella
Sella is the most important and extensive area in the whole Costa Blanca. There...
231
^^^^
trad+sport evening sun uphill
10 mins
windy 156
El Divino
The most impressive bit of rock in Sella is also one of the least popular of...
51
--^^
sport sun to mid-afternoon uphill
10 mins
dry in rainwindy 174
Puig Campana
As you drive up and down the coastline, there is one impressive bit of rock...
27
-^^-
trad+sport sun from mid-morning uphill
30 mins
windy 186
Ponoch
The Ponoch is the massive face of rock that overlooks the town of Polop. It is...
7
_---
trad+sport lots of sun! uphill
20 mins
windy 196
Echo Valley
The Echo Valley is one of the more impressive mountainous limestone regions in...
132
^^^^
trad+sport sun to mid-afternoon uphill
5 mins
windy 200
Guadalest
The rocky citadel of Guadalest has always been known for the bouldering...
64
-^^_
sport sun to mid-afternoon roadside
0 mins
windy -
Bernia
The Bernia Ridge is the spectacular rocky crest that runs east west, a short...
17
_---
sport lots of sun! uphill
15 mins
windy 222
Altea
Two contrasting cliffs, both in superb locations. Altea Col is steep imposing...
36
_^^-
sport sun to mid-afternoon downhill
10 mins
windy 225
Mascarat Gorge
The walls of the Mascarat provide some superb long routes in a weird and...
32
-^--
sport sun+shade level
10 mins
windy 230
Sierra de Toix
The Sierra de Toix forms an impressive ridge overlooking Calpe to the north,...
160
^^^^
sport lots of sun! up+down
10 mins
  238
Olta
The largest feature of the crag is the huge white groove on its left-hand side....
22
_---
sport morning sun uphill
20 mins
windy 258
Penon de Ifach
One of the most striking landmarks in the whole of the Costa Blanca is the...
30
_-^-
trad+sport lots of sun! uphill
20 mins
windy 262
Moraira
A fine cliff of high quality rough rock with a handful of quality climbs. The...
25
_^--
trad     windyrestrict -
Cala del Moraig - DWS
Cala del Moraig, developed totally from scratch in 2005, is a real DWS plum; an...
34
-^^-
dws lots of sun! level
5 mins
  -
Isla del Descobridor - DWS
This amazing, sausage-shaped island is set just a few metres off the coast,...
6
_--_
dws afternoon sun level
5 mins
windy -
Cala Ximo - DWS
The micro-crag at Cala Ximo is diminutive, but fun! The cliff itself consists...
4
__-_
dws morning sun downhill
5 mins
  -
Los Pinos
A recently discovered and developed crag 20 minutes from Calpe, conveniently...
28
_--^
sport afternoon sun uphill
5 mins
seepagedry in rainwindy 274
Pena Roja
A pleasant cliff in a quiet setting, with a good collection of mainly tough...
28
_-^^
sport sun to mid-afternoon level
2 mins
windy 278
Murla/Alcalali
This pair of crags has a good set of hard routes and is worth a look for the...
48
--^^
sport afternoon sun uphill
5 mins
seepagedry in rainwindy 282
L'Ocaive
L'ocaive is a large and slightly vegetated crag with some scope for further...
33
-^--
sport morning sun uphill
10 mins
windy 288
Covatelles
A long low outcrop of limestone that can be seen from the motorway (on the...
14
_---
sport lots of sun! uphill
10 mins
  292
Font d'Axia
A small but pleasant crag in an remote-feeling and idyllic setting, despite...
12
---_
sport sun from mid-morning level
10 mins
windy 294
Pego
A pair of recently developed cliffs on the outskirts of the twon of the same...
25
-^--
sport lots of sun! uphill
10 mins
  298
Segaria
The Serra de Segaria is the long rocky range of hills that bounds the northern...
16
-^__
trad lots of sun! uphill
25 mins
windy 302
Gandia
The first impression of this crag as you approach is that it is significantly...
173
-^^^
trad+sport lots of sun! uphill
20 mins
windy 307
Salem
Despite the vaguely slightly sinister association Salem is a friendly crag with...
138
^^^^
sport no sun uphill
10 mins
  324
Aventador
Aventador consists of a long wall of well-pocketed compact rock, with some good...
71
-^^-
sport lots of sun! uphill
10 mins
windy 334
Montesa
Montesa is a fine little crag consisting of walls of good compact rock, in a...
98
-^^-
sport sun+shade level
5 mins
windy 342
Bellús
Bellús offers varied climbing set in a secluded dry valley called The Barranco...
141
-^^^
sport lots of sun! level
20 mins
  350
Barranc de l'Avern
An impressive deep cut ravine with a great deal of exposed rock and a very busy...
112
-^^^
sport morning sun level
5 mins
  359
 What do these symbols mean?
Averages, based on the largest buttress at each crag
Latest Comments
COSTA BLANCA
Candelabra del Sol (Sierra de Toix)
"This has been rebolted and is an amazing route. Take around 20 clips The bolts o..." 08/Aug

Shelter (Echo Valley)
"Good powerful climbing - sting in the tail - useful kneebar for final clip" 30/Jul

Striking it Rich (Moraira)
"This route is easy to start by way of down climbing to the sea, from the mid lev..." 27/Jul

Stohlwitter (Murla/Alcalali)
"Excellent route, a soft 6a i thought. deserves 2 stars at least." 22/Jul

Direct de UBSA (Penon de Ifach)
""Hardest" was probably a wrong word as regards the second pitch - tech..." 28/Jun

Jhonny (Marin)
"Nice easy route, well worthwhile. The only problem is that some idiot removed o..." 27/Jun top50

Satori (Forada)
"fpund out in new guide its called JotaKe 8b+, total quality and very slopey, one..." 13/Jun

Vía Gómez-Cano (Penon de Ifach)
"The climb is semi-equipped with parabolts, the sort that don´t rust. All belays ..." 01/Jun

Derecha del Espolón (Orihuela)
"This is a nice and safe (well-bolted) multi-pitch route. We did it in May 2010 ..." 17/May

Windle Poons (Murla/Alcalali)
"Very nice climb, but overgraded. I would give it a 6b+ at most. The bolts are pl..." 17/May

Route 3 (Los Pinos)
"Only 6c+ with a very short crux." 06/May

Negra neusI els set gigantes (Salem)
"From the ground, this route appears more difficult than it is. About halfway up..." 03/May

Espera de Juan Lema (Alcoi)
"Espera de Juan Lema : no Esperma de Juan Lerma" 27/Apr

Madarikatuak (Gandia)
"not if you try Chiqui next door !" 19/Apr

Las mollas de riglo (Salem)
"Very poor route. The top part is okay, but indeed not worth going through the ve..." 14/Apr

Somnis de tardó (Salem)
"Excellent, UK-like trying route, needing determination - 6a I'd say. Satisfying...." 05/Apr

La hora de Millau (Sella)
"Feels a little committing, but not bold or scary, without the clips in. Steady b..." 05/Apr top50

Cicky Bugger (Sierra de Toix)
"nice fingery route one of the best about" 04/Apr

Timatiriticón (Sella)
"This route has been re-equipped with new bolts and is a worthwhile warm up." 30/Mar

Del Forat (Forada)
"Easier than it looks. The cave is very surprising, but do not go down without pr..." 26/Mar

Paranoia (Marin)
"Easy at the bottom. Beautiful rock near the top!" 25/Mar

Blob Face (Los Pinos)
"Probably 8a" 24/Mar

La Pedra Ibèrica (Guadalest)
"A great route, with hidden jugs on all the steep bits. You can belay comfortably..." 23/Mar

José Hernández (Orihuela)
"Very pleasant. Best pitch is the first. The second is a bit short and more 6b fo..." 23/Mar

Pepestroika (Gandia)
"A great overhanging jug haul and like so many others, I also loved the dong! I ..." 10/Mar top50

Valencianos (Penon de Ifach)
"Pitch 3 is now very polished indeed. I took a fall trying to bridge/layaway on i..." 02/Mar top50

Pobrecito (Bernia)
"please don't climb this route - the clipping above the ledge is dangerous." 02/Mar

Colorines (Montesa)
"A good route. The crux is getting to the first bolt. There is a horizontal jug..." 01/Mar

Route 11 (Murla/Alcalali)
"A fence starts at this route and seems to bar access to the remaining routes to ..." 01/Mar

X Capitulos (Orihuela)
"Great sustained placa route. Best of three I have done here. All pitches feel ab..." 20/Feb

Tormento vertical (Marin)
"short and fun, well protected" 19/Feb

Route 1 (Murla/Alcalali)
"Another route left of Hogfather again about 5+" 12/Feb

Isla de encanta (Sierra de Toix)
"done only first pitch. wall is marvelous and route also." 09/Feb

Novatillos (Gandia)
"A good sustained pitch with good holds right when you need them." 08/Feb

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