Costa Blanca

The muts nuts as far as easily accessible sun rock is concerned. Short or long, trad or sport, roadside or mountain, polished or unclimbed - its got the lot!

Routes

21 trad routes (S...)
3478 sport routes (HVS...)
10 dws routes (...)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Leyva
Although a long way south of the popular climbing areas around Benidorm and...
66
-^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

40 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
46
Mula
Inland from the throbbing metropolis of Murcia you enter real spaghetti-western...
98
^^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

5 mins

  54
La Panocha
Behind the typical Spanish city of Murcia is a long range of hills. The high...
97
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

8 mins

  62
Orihuela
Around the old town of Orihuela and its satellite of Redovan are a series of...
98
-^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

  64
Marín
To the west of the small town of Elda is a prominent dome of cream-coloured...
85
-^^-
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and Down

10 mins

  89
Salinas
Salinas is a fine crag which is beautifully situated, superbly well-geared and...
79
-^^^
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

Restricted Access
91
Sax
Also known as Cabreras, Sax is an impressive series of towers perched high on...
63
-^^-
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

  94
Sierra Magdalena
A small selection of routes in a rather scruffy setting. Although probably not...
58
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

  102
Peña del Corb
A short distance north of Petrer/Elda is this face of rock, ‘the tower of the...
22
-^--
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Sheltered
115
Peña Rubia
Not the most exciting crag in the guide but it has been quite popular in the...
82
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

0 mins

  118
Foradà
This is a fine crag which has a mega north-facing wall which gives some of the...
172
-^^^
Sport
No sun
Uphill

10 mins

  128
Reconco
Reconco is a superb crag with a good range of middle grade routes on perfect,...
46
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

  142
Ibi
A closely packed set of well bolted routes running steeply up the side of a...
43
-^^-
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

5 mins

  130
Agujas Rojas
Agujas Rojas is a small collection of pinnacles, in a picturesque woodland...
52
-^^^
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

1 min

Sheltered
Restricted Access
150
Alcoi
A steep and sunny cliff that has many hard routes. The setting, looking out...
35
_^-^
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
 
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
-
Cabezon de Oro
Travelling north from Alicante, the first mountain of any significance is the...
27
---^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Dry in the Rain
157
Sella
Sella is the most important and extensive area in the whole Costa Blanca. There...
317
^^^^
Sport
No sun
Uphill

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
164
Castellets
Sandwiched between the rock climbing Meccas of the Sella valley and the...
37
-^^-
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

  196
Puig Campana
As you drive up and down the coastline, there is one impressive bit of rock...
33
-^^-
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

1 min

  203
Ponoch
The Ponoch is the massive face of rock that overlooks the town of Polop. It is...
8
_---
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

  212
Vall de Guadar (Echo Valley)
The Echo Valley is one of the more impressive mountainous limestone regions in...
186
^^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

5 mins

  217
Bolulla
A secluded crag in a lofty situation with great views and a small set of...
14
----
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

  239
Abdet
Beyond Guadalest the new coach-road reverts to a more-usual narrow gauge as it...
45
-^^_
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

6 mins

Sheltered
242
Guadalest
The rocky citadel of Guadalest has always been known for the bouldering...
153
^^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

1 min

Sheltered
248
Bernia
The Bernia Ridge is the spectacular rocky crest that runs east west, a short...
22
----
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

3 mins

  266
Altea
Two contrasting cliffs, both in superb locations. Altea Col is steep imposing...
37
_^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

10 mins

  272
Mascarat
The walls of the Mascarat provide some superb long routes in a weird and...
33
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

8 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
279
Castellet de Calp
This north-facing crag is an excellent addition to the Calp area crags. It is...
36
_-^^
Sport
No sun
Up and Down

5 mins

Sheltered
286
Sierra de Toix
The Sierra de Toix forms an impressive ridge overlooking Calpe to the north,...
222
^^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

6 mins

Sheltered
240
Peñón de Ifach
One of the most striking landmarks in the whole of the Costa Blanca is the...
30
_-^-
Trad and Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

20 mins

  322
Olta
The largest feature of the crag is the huge white groove on its left-hand side....
43
^^--
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

30 mins

  335
Pinos
A recently discovered and developed crag 20 minutes from Calpe, conveniently...
40
_-^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

2 mins

Sheltered
340
Moraira
A fine cliff of high quality rough rock with a handful of quality climbs. The...
25
_^--
Trad
   
Restricted Access
-
Morro Falqui
Morro Falqui is the imposing headland to the north of the beaches and deep...
0
____
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

5 mins

  -
Cala del Moraig - DWS
Cala del Moraig, developed totally from scratch in 2005, is a real DWS plum; an...
34
-^^-
DWS
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
-
Isla del Descobridor - DWS
This amazing, sausage-shaped island is set just a few metres off the coast,...
6
_--_
DWS
Afternoon sun
Level

5 mins

  -
Cala Ximo - DWS
The micro-crag at Cala Ximo is diminutive, but fun! The cliff itself consists...
4
__-_
DWS
Morning sun
Downhill

5 mins

Sheltered
-
Peña Roja
A pleasant cliff in a quiet setting, with a good collection of mainly tough...
35
_-^^
Sport
Morning sun
Level

3 mins

Sheltered
348
Murla
This pair of crags has a good set of hard routes and is worth a look for the...
51
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
352
Alcalalí
50
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

6 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
357
L'Ocaive
L'ocaive is a large and slightly vegetated crag with some scope for further...
41
-^^^
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

12 mins

Dry in the Rain
362
Covatelles
A long low outcrop of limestone that can be seen from the motorway (on the...
14
_---
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
292
Font d'Axia
A small but pleasant crag in an remote-feeling and idyllic setting, despite...
29
-^-_
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

8 mins

Sheltered
367
Pego
A pair of recently developed cliffs on the outskirts of the twon of the same...
28
-^--
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
373
Segaria
The Serra de Segaria is the long rocky range of hills that bounds the northern...
16
-^-_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

25 mins

  302
Gandía
The first impression of this crag as you approach is that it is significantly...
182
-^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
380
Salem
Despite the vaguely slightly sinister association Salem is a friendly crag with...
142
^^^^
Sport
No sun
Uphill

10 mins

  400
Bellús
Bellús offers varied climbing set in a secluded dry valley called The Barranco...
235
-^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

12 mins

  412
Aventador
Aventador consists of a long wall of well-pocketed compact rock, with some good...
71
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

13 mins

  430
El Picayo
0
____
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

15 mins

  -
Montesa
Montesa is a fine little crag consisting of walls of good compact rock, in a...
100
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

3 mins

  438
Barranc de l'Avern
An impressive deep cut ravine with a great deal of exposed rock and a very busy...
112
-^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
359
  • Access Issues for Costa Blanca


  • Latest Comments

    For Costa Blanca

    Fuig d'Aci (Guadalest)
    "Great route in the scoop! A couple of hard moves in succession between bolts 4-6..." 05/May

    96 octanos (L'Ocaive)
    "New bolts on first RL." 01/May

    Valor y Coraje (Sella)
    "Great route! Superb climbing all the way. Though I agree that other 6a plus on t..." 23/Apr

    Triki, el monstruo (Covatelles)
    "Sharp on the fingers! Very sustained and pumpy! The bulges add to this. >B..." 19/Apr

    Shelter (Vall de Guadar (Echo Valley))
    "I took the rest of the glued flake with me out in the air, and the flake below a..." 10/Apr

    Agust (Marín)
    "This is straightforward climbing av grade 4. Nice, but I fail to see the top50 q..." 02/Apr top50

    Pelota Saltarina (Mula)
    "Easiest route here, more like a 2 than a 4+, but quite nice to scramble up" 30/Mar

    Dimensión diamante (Sella)
    "Very nice route not to hard, 8a/8a+ There is indeed a full line to the left nam..." 27/Mar

    La pedra ibérica (Guadalest)
    "An 80 meter rope will take you up and down both pitches. Nice." 27/Mar

    Espolón Central (Puig Campana)
    "A great day out-get a very early start unless you are a superfast climber, parti..." 02/Mar top50

    Rosamonte (L'Ocaive)
    "There are 2 new pitches starting from the lower-off. The one on the left is a ni..." 24/Feb

    Astrokangrena bucólica (Aventador)
    "Brilliant and pumpy" 25/Jan

    El sol (Gandía)
    "Another Gandia classic sandbag! Lovely 6b/6b+ climbing all the way up to the roo..." 14/Jan top50

    Optas (Alcalalí)
    "With start of the route I mean making the move to the third bolt!" 07/Jan

    Maika (Marín)
    "There's a new(?) anchor at about 20m. The old anchor at 32m is also still there...." 02/Jan top50

    Puente aéreo (Marín)
    "Route would be more logically and better for the overall grade if bolts would be..." 29/Dec

    Triple Direct (Mascarat)
    "I don't agree with the upper comment: First pitch isn't well protected at all, a..." 15/Dec

    Gandia Topdeckio 27 (Gandía)
    "Yes - VERY sharp!" 11/Dec

    L'home Mistol (Guadalest)
    "Just right of this there's, a new route called "Hombre Alcanfor", abou..." 09/Dec

    Endevant (Guadalest)
    "The rock is dark, rather scruffy-looking and showing few signs that humans have ..." 05/Dec

    4 You (Sierra de Toix)
    "Start is squeezed between two adjacent routes on non obvious holds, a bit artifi..." 30/Nov

    Chilling Out (Vall de Guadar (Echo Valley))
    "This is now appears to be fully bolted." 28/Nov

    Monkey Wall (Sierra de Toix)
    "Fun climbing threw the hueco chimney with sufficiant bolts (first a little bit h..." 24/Nov

    El Incrédulo (L'Ocaive)
    "Spoilt by vegetation so no stars but I enjoyed doing it." 20/Nov

    Dagón (Montesa)
    "Lovely route all the way up to the top of the arête... then you have to do a des..." 20/Nov

    Carlos (Sierra de Toix)
    "Pitch 1 is squeezed between Blue on one side, Red on 'tother; but betweenthere i..." 19/Nov

    The Toix Ridge (Sierra de Toix)
    "now and then dubious relais and sometimes long distances between bolts (on the e..." 16/Nov

    Vía Esther (Vall de Guadar (Echo Valley))
    "The start is the hardest bit and seemed hard 4+. Rather scrappy above" 07/Nov top50

    Bolt Tax (Sella)
    "Really great route, quite easy to redpoint - the first time is a bit mind boggli..." 25/Oct

    Sesamoid (Vall de Guadar (Echo Valley))
    "Pleasant climbing with a lovely exposed traverse to finish in the chimney of the..." 21/Oct

    Jengibre (Abdet)
    "Horrible crumbly rock on this route and the ones around it - even the belayer is..." 21/Oct

    Celia (Sella)
    "I think most visiting climbers think Celia is quite easy for 7c+ and should have..." 18/Sep

    Lofi (Sierra de Toix)
    "Communication is impossible after the first pitch. If you are not used to moves ..." 22/Aug

    Wardrobe (Altea)
    "Brilliant sustained climbing at the grade - deserves 3 stars." 24/May

    Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour (Sierra de Toix)
    "Last week I rebolted the complete route with stainless bolts, so the climb is pr..." 07/May

    Extranjeros (Sella)
    "Used to be 7b when I climbed it and some locals and visiting Brits even then sai..." 29/Mar

    Contes i Llegendes (Guadalest)
    "loose and unpleasant. large areas of rock scarring are rather unsettling. the cl..." 26/Mar

    Wardrobe (Altea)
    "Excellent route - never really hard but has a big and committing feel" 21/Mar

    La Barra (Alcalalí)
    "Not a two stars route, maybe one star, the quotation is wrong, harder than the 6..." 20/Mar

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