COSTA BLANCA

The muts nuts as far as easily accessible sun rock is concerned. Short or long, trad or sport, roadside or mountain, polished or unclimbed - its got the lot!

Routes

21 trad routes (S...8a)
3455 sport routes (HVS...8c+)
10 dws routes (6a+...6c+)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade		 Approach walk Other Page
Leyva
Although a long way south of the popular climbing areas around Benidorm and...		 66
-^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

40 mins
Dry in the Rain
 46
Mula
Inland from the throbbing metropolis of Murcia you enter real spaghetti-western...		 98
^^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

5 mins
Windy
 54
La Panocha
Behind the typical Spanish city of Murcia is a long range of hills. The high...		 97
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

8 mins
Windy
 62
Orihuela
Around the old town of Orihuela and its satellite of Redovan are a series of...		 98
-^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins
Windy
 64
Marín
To the west of the small town of Elda is a prominent dome of cream-coloured...		 85
-^^-
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and Down

10 mins
Windy
 89
Salinas
Salinas is a fine crag which is beautifully situated, superbly well-geared and...		 79
-^^^
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins
Windy
Restricted Access
 91
Sax
Also known as Cabreras, Sax is an impressive series of towers perched high on...		 63
-^^-
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins
Windy
 94
Sierra Magdalena
A small selection of routes in a rather scruffy setting. Although probably not...		 58
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins
Windy
 102
Peña del Corb
A short distance north of Petrer/Elda is this face of rock, ‘the tower of the...		 22
-^--
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

   115
Peña Rubia
Not the most exciting crag in the guide but it has been quite popular in the...		 82
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

0 mins
Windy
 118
Foradà
This is a fine crag which has a mega north-facing wall which gives some of the...		 172
-^^^
Sport
No sun
Uphill

10 mins
Windy
 128
Ibi
A closely packed set of well bolted routes running steeply up the side of a...		 43
-^^-
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

5 mins
Windy
 130
Reconco
Reconco is a superb crag with a good range of middle grade routes on perfect,...		 46
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins
Windy
 142
Agujas Rojas
Agujas Rojas is a small collection of pinnacles, in a picturesque woodland...		 52
-^^^
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

1 min
Restricted Access
 150
Alcoi
A steep and sunny cliff that has many hard routes. The setting, looking out...		 35
_^-^
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
  
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
 -
Cabezon de Oro
Travelling north from Alicante, the first mountain of any significance is the...		 27
---^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins
Dry in the Rain
Windy
 157
Sella
Sella is the most important and extensive area in the whole Costa Blanca. There...		 317
^^^^
Sport
No sun
Uphill

5 mins
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
 164
Castellets
Sandwiched between the rock climbing Meccas of the Sella valley and the...		 37
-^^-
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins
Windy
 196
Puig Campana
As you drive up and down the coastline, there is one impressive bit of rock...		 27
-^^-
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

1 min
Windy
 203
Ponoch
The Ponoch is the massive face of rock that overlooks the town of Polop. It is...		 8
_---
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins
Windy
 212
Vall de Guadar (Echo Valley)
The Echo Valley is one of the more impressive mountainous limestone regions in...		 186
^^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

5 mins
Windy
 217
Bolulla
A secluded crag in a lofty situation with great views and a small set of...		 14
----
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins
Windy
 239
Abdet
Beyond Guadalest the new coach-road reverts to a more-usual narrow gauge as it...		 45
-^^_
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

6 mins

   242
Guadalest
The rocky citadel of Guadalest has always been known for the bouldering...		 152
^^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

1 min

   248
Bernia
The Bernia Ridge is the spectacular rocky crest that runs east west, a short...		 22
----
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

3 mins
Windy
 266
Altea
Two contrasting cliffs, both in superb locations. Altea Col is steep imposing...		 37
_^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

10 mins
Windy
 272
Mascarat
The walls of the Mascarat provide some superb long routes in a weird and...		 33
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

8 mins
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
 279
Castellet de Calp
This north-facing crag is an excellent addition to the Calp area crags. It is...		 36
_-^^
Sport
No sun
Up and Down

5 mins

   286
Sierra de Toix
The Sierra de Toix forms an impressive ridge overlooking Calpe to the north,...		 223
^^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

6 mins

   240
Peñón de Ifach
One of the most striking landmarks in the whole of the Costa Blanca is the...		 30
_-^-
Trad and Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

20 mins
Windy
 322
Olta
The largest feature of the crag is the huge white groove on its left-hand side....		 43
^^--
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

30 mins
Windy
 335
Pinos
A recently discovered and developed crag 20 minutes from Calpe, conveniently...		 40
_-^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

2 mins

   340
Moraira
A fine cliff of high quality rough rock with a handful of quality climbs. The...		 25
_^--
Trad
    
Windy
Restricted Access
 -
Cala del Moraig - DWS
Cala del Moraig, developed totally from scratch in 2005, is a real DWS plum; an...		 34
-^^-
DWS
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

   -
Isla del Descobridor - DWS
This amazing, sausage-shaped island is set just a few metres off the coast,...		 6
_--_
DWS
Afternoon sun
Level

5 mins
Windy
 -
Cala Ximo - DWS
The micro-crag at Cala Ximo is diminutive, but fun! The cliff itself consists...		 4
__-_
DWS
Morning sun
Downhill

5 mins

   -
Peña Roja
A pleasant cliff in a quiet setting, with a good collection of mainly tough...		 35
_-^^
Sport
Morning sun
Level

3 mins

   348
Murla
This pair of crags has a good set of hard routes and is worth a look for the...		 51
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Windy
 352
Alcalalí
 50
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

6 mins
Seepage
 357
L'Ocaive
L'ocaive is a large and slightly vegetated crag with some scope for further...		 41
-^^^
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

12 mins
Dry in the Rain
Windy
 362
Covatelles
A long low outcrop of limestone that can be seen from the motorway (on the...		 14
_---
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

   292
Font d'Axia
A small but pleasant crag in an remote-feeling and idyllic setting, despite...		 12
---_
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

8 mins

   367
Pego
A pair of recently developed cliffs on the outskirts of the twon of the same...		 28
-^--
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

   373
Segaria
The Serra de Segaria is the long rocky range of hills that bounds the northern...		 16
-^-_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

25 mins
Windy
 302
Gandía
The first impression of this crag as you approach is that it is significantly...		 182
-^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins
Dry in the Rain
 380
Salem
Despite the vaguely slightly sinister association Salem is a friendly crag with...		 142
^^^^
Sport
No sun
Uphill

10 mins
Windy
 400
Bellús
Bellús offers varied climbing set in a secluded dry valley called The Barranco...		 235
-^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

12 mins
Windy
 412
Aventador
Aventador consists of a long wall of well-pocketed compact rock, with some good...		 71
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

13 mins
Windy
 430
Montesa
Montesa is a fine little crag consisting of walls of good compact rock, in a...		 100
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

3 mins
Windy
 438
Barranc de l'Avern
An impressive deep cut ravine with a great deal of exposed rock and a very busy...		 112
-^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

   359

  • Access Issues for COSTA BLANCA

  • Latest Comments

    For COSTA BLANCA

    Magical Mystery Tour (Sierra de Toix)
    "Last week I rebolted the complete route with stainless bolts, so the climb is pr..." 07/May top50

    Extranjeros (Sella)
    "Used to be 7b when I climbed it and some locals and visiting Brits even then sai..." 29/Mar

    Contes i Llegendes (Guadalest)
    "loose and unpleasant. large areas of rock scarring are rather unsettling. the cl..." 26/Mar

    Wardrobe (Altea)
    "Excellent route - never really hard but has a big and committing feel" 21/Mar

    La Barra (Alcalalí)
    "Not a two stars route, maybe one star, the quotation is wrong, harder than the 6..." 20/Mar

    Collum de Ho (Puig Campana)
    "This route is: 1) 6b+ 2) 7a 3) 7a+ Ram" 18/Mar

    Sabine bonsai (Vall de Guadar (Echo Valley))
    "If you're short the crux is desperate and bolted so that you would hit the slb i..." 17/Mar

    P (Sierra de Toix)
    "Changed from 5 * to 5+ **, 0% of 1 vote for 5+, 0% of 1 vote for **" 06/Mar

    A diestro y siniestro (Sella)
    "A hard move to get to the lower off but other than that it's about 4+" 06/Mar

    Nueva Dimensión (Peñón de Ifach)
    "Outstanding route, once you've got past the "choss pile" that is the c..." 06/Mar

    Derecha del Espolón (Orihuela)
    "It seemed to us as if access is back here. We were told by a local climber that ..." 03/Mar

    Gato u Ocho Buriles (La Panocha)
    "Changed from 6c to 6c+ **, 100% of 1 vote for 6c+, 100% of 1 vote for **" 25/Feb

    Diferente Partes (Alcalalí)
    "Fantastic route! A rather perplexing move to get up the tufa,unless you are tall..." 24/Feb

    The Groove (Castellets)
    "I did this last Oct when it had been fully bolted so can't be E1 in the mini-gui..." 23/Feb

    García dos (Sella)
    "I agree this is hard for the grade. Worth 6b" 10/Feb

    Painted Wall (Sierra de Toix)
    "Gets harder and harder with height. Brilliant positions." 01/Feb

    La Pricessa de la Llosa (L'Ocaive)
    "Route is called 'La Princesa de la Llosa'. The route climbs the first pitch of ..." 31/Jan

    El delfín (Leyva)
    "Please update the route lengths on this crag - many are far longer than the guid..." 30/Jan

    Isis (Castellets)
    "?! An utterly bizarre (and WRONG) description. There is nothing vague about it a..." 28/Jan

    Retovato glutamato (Guadalest)
    "I'd say 4+ too." 26/Jan

    Gallego-Carillo (Leyva)
    "Susanne Rydfeldt susryd@hotmail.com The line is changed at 3rd pitch. a diagon..." 19/Jan

    Vía Valencianos (Peñón de Ifach)
    "Did this in Jan 12. All of the belays have at least two ring bolts, so retreat i..." 14/Jan top50

    Vía Missing Link (Sierra de Toix)
    "It isn't clear where to traverse. Down at the water (like the line in the topo) ..." 11/Jan

    Strongbody (Vall de Guadar (Echo Valley))
    "A good little route" 03/Jan

    Dit Laser (Reconco)
    "Dec 2012 visit. Dit Laser has been logically extended another two bolts to brand..." 30/Dec

    Soft and Huggy (Altea)
    "A fine route. First few meters pleasant steep climbing, then a slabby part with ..." 19/Oct

    Diedro UBSA (Peñón de Ifach)
    "Great route, went straight for the small cave at pitch 6 and thought the move t..." 14/Oct top50

    Riglos (Leyva)
    "Anyone who has climbed this route, good or... Write a comment please. Susanne" 04/Sep

    Vía Nuria (Orihuela)
    "Tried to abseil down this route. It is rebolted! Looks great. However, someone h..." 28/Jun

    Das Buch der 5 Ringe (Olta)
    "Enjoyed this route with its crimps, but took a toll on the fingers as the rock w..." 14/May

    Aorangi (Puig Campana)
    "crux pitch is good and hard (more like 7a but not e5 as it's bolted until it eas..." 15/Apr

    Larga, dura y caliente (Gandía)
    "The locals give it 7b/+ to the first lower off. 7a to the last bolt then a boul..." 11/Apr

    l'Orgue (Guadalest)
    "Tough for 6a+" 31/Mar

    Diedro UBSA (Peñón de Ifach)
    "Completed this route on 23 March 2012 in about five and a half hours including w..." 25/Mar top50

    Mister coki (Bellús)
    "6b. Intriguing crux ..! Nice when routes become teachers. Got it 1st redpoint by..." 26/Feb

    Celia (Sella)
    "A good route, brilliant climbing on the lower wall, and through the crux tufa at..." 20/Feb

    Si Maria (Olta)
    "Line drawn in topo not correct, route has a more direct start. This must be the ..." 18/Feb

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