The muts nuts as far as easily accessible sun rock is concerned. Short or long, trad or sport, roadside or mountain, polished or unclimbed - its got the lot!

ROUTES
2602 sport routes (3...8c+)
10 dws routes (6a+...6c+)
50 of the Best Routes
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents

Crag (click for details)	No. of Routes	Grade Range	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Leyva Although a long way south of the popular climbing areas around Benidorm and...	84				40 mins		46
La Panocha Behind the typical Spanish city of Murcia is a long range of hills. The high...	78				5 mins		54
Orihuela Around the old town of Orihuela and its satellite of Redovan are a series of...	81				20 mins		64
Marin To the west of the small town of Elda is a prominent dome of cream-coloured...	50				15 mins		80
Salinas Salinas is a fine crag which is beautifully situated, superbly well-geared and...	74				10 mins		86
Sax - Penas del Rey Also known as Cabreras, Sax is an impressive series of towers perched high on...	58				15 mins		94
Sierra Magdalena A small selection of routes in a rather scruffy setting. Although probably not...	58				10 mins		102
Pena del Corb A short distance north of Petrer/Elda is this face of rock, ‘the tower of the...	20				20 mins		108
Pena Rubia Not the most exciting crag in the guide but it has been quite popular in the...	57				5 mins		112
Forada This is a fine crag which has a mega north-facing wall which gives some of the...	112				10 mins		118
Ibi A closely packed set of well bolted routes running steeply up the side of a...	43				5 mins		130
Reconco Reconco is a superb crag with a good range of middle grade routes on perfect,...	35				20 mins		134
Agujas Rojas Agujas Rojas is a small collection of pinnacles, in a picturesque woodland...	36				5 mins		138
Alcoi A steep and sunny cliff that has many hard routes. The setting, looking out...	35						144
Cabezon de Oro Travelling north from Alicante, the first mountain of any significance is the...	21				20 mins		147
Sella Sella is the most important and extensive area in the whole Costa Blanca. There...	231				10 mins		156
El Divino The most impressive bit of rock in Sella is also one of the least popular of...	51				10 mins		174
Puig Campana As you drive up and down the coastline, there is one impressive bit of rock...	27				30 mins		186
Ponoch The Ponoch is the massive face of rock that overlooks the town of Polop. It is...	7				20 mins		196
Echo Valley The Echo Valley is one of the more impressive mountainous limestone regions in...	132				5 mins		200
Guadalest The rocky citadel of Guadalest has always been known for the bouldering...	64				0 mins		-
Bernia The Bernia Ridge is the spectacular rocky crest that runs east west, a short...	17				15 mins		222
Altea Two contrasting cliffs, both in superb locations. Altea Col is steep imposing...	36				10 mins		225
Mascarat Gorge The walls of the Mascarat provide some superb long routes in a weird and...	32				10 mins		230
Sierra de Toix The Sierra de Toix forms an impressive ridge overlooking Calpe to the north,...	160				10 mins		238
Olta The largest feature of the crag is the huge white groove on its left-hand side....	22				20 mins		258
Penon de Ifach One of the most striking landmarks in the whole of the Costa Blanca is the...	30				20 mins		262
Moraira A fine cliff of high quality rough rock with a handful of quality climbs. The...	25						-
Cala del Moraig - DWS Cala del Moraig, developed totally from scratch in 2005, is a real DWS plum; an...	34				5 mins		-
Isla del Descobridor - DWS This amazing, sausage-shaped island is set just a few metres off the coast,...	6				5 mins		-
Cala Ximo - DWS The micro-crag at Cala Ximo is diminutive, but fun! The cliff itself consists...	4				5 mins		-
Los Pinos A recently discovered and developed crag 20 minutes from Calpe, conveniently...	28				5 mins		274
Pena Roja A pleasant cliff in a quiet setting, with a good collection of mainly tough...	28				2 mins		278
Murla/Alcalali This pair of crags has a good set of hard routes and is worth a look for the...	48				5 mins		282
L'Ocaive L'ocaive is a large and slightly vegetated crag with some scope for further...	33				10 mins		288
Covatelles A long low outcrop of limestone that can be seen from the motorway (on the...	14				10 mins		292
Font d'Axia A small but pleasant crag in an remote-feeling and idyllic setting, despite...	12				10 mins		294
Pego A pair of recently developed cliffs on the outskirts of the twon of the same...	25				10 mins		298
Segaria The Serra de Segaria is the long rocky range of hills that bounds the northern...	16				25 mins		302
Gandia The first impression of this crag as you approach is that it is significantly...	173				20 mins		307
Salem Despite the vaguely slightly sinister association Salem is a friendly crag with...	138				10 mins		324
Aventador Aventador consists of a long wall of well-pocketed compact rock, with some good...	71				10 mins		334
Montesa Montesa is a fine little crag consisting of walls of good compact rock, in a...	98				5 mins		342
Bellús Bellús offers varied climbing set in a secluded dry valley called The Barranco...	141				20 mins		350
Barranc de l'Avern An impressive deep cut ravine with a great deal of exposed rock and a very busy...	112				5 mins		359
			What do these symbols mean? Averages, based on the largest buttress at each crag

Shelter (Echo Valley)
"Good powerful climbing - sting in the tail - useful kneebar for final clip" 30/Jul

Striking it Rich (Moraira)
"This route is easy to start by way of down climbing to the sea, from the mid lev..." 27/Jul

Stohlwitter (Murla/Alcalali)
"Excellent route, a soft 6a i thought. deserves 2 stars at least." 22/Jul

Direct de UBSA (Penon de Ifach)
""Hardest" was probably a wrong word as regards the second pitch - tech..." 28/Jun

Jhonny (Marin)
"Nice easy route, well worthwhile. The only problem is that some idiot removed o..." 27/Jun

Satori (Forada)
"fpund out in new guide its called JotaKe 8b+, total quality and very slopey, one..." 13/Jun

Vía Gómez-Cano (Penon de Ifach)
"The climb is semi-equipped with parabolts, the sort that don´t rust. All belays ..." 01/Jun

Derecha del Espolón (Orihuela)
"This is a nice and safe (well-bolted) multi-pitch route. We did it in May 2010 ..." 17/May

Windle Poons (Murla/Alcalali)
"Very nice climb, but overgraded. I would give it a 6b+ at most. The bolts are pl..." 17/May

Route 3 (Los Pinos)
"Only 6c+ with a very short crux." 06/May

Negra neusI els set gigantes (Salem)
"From the ground, this route appears more difficult than it is. About halfway up..." 03/May

Espera de Juan Lema (Alcoi)
"Espera de Juan Lema : no Esperma de Juan Lerma" 27/Apr

Madarikatuak (Gandia)
"not if you try Chiqui next door !" 19/Apr

Las mollas de riglo (Salem)
"Very poor route. The top part is okay, but indeed not worth going through the ve..." 14/Apr

Somnis de tardó (Salem)
"Excellent, UK-like trying route, needing determination - 6a I'd say. Satisfying...." 05/Apr

La hora de Millau (Sella)
"Feels a little committing, but not bold or scary, without the clips in. Steady b..." 05/Apr

Cicky Bugger (Sierra de Toix)
"nice fingery route one of the best about" 04/Apr

Timatiriticón (Sella)
"This route has been re-equipped with new bolts and is a worthwhile warm up." 30/Mar

Del Forat (Forada)
"Easier than it looks. The cave is very surprising, but do not go down without pr..." 26/Mar

Paranoia (Marin)
"Easy at the bottom. Beautiful rock near the top!" 25/Mar

Blob Face (Los Pinos)
"Probably 8a" 24/Mar

La Pedra Ibèrica (Guadalest)
"A great route, with hidden jugs on all the steep bits. You can belay comfortably..." 23/Mar

José Hernández (Orihuela)
"Very pleasant. Best pitch is the first. The second is a bit short and more 6b fo..." 23/Mar

Pepestroika (Gandia)
"A great overhanging jug haul and like so many others, I also loved the dong! I ..." 10/Mar

Valencianos (Penon de Ifach)
"Pitch 3 is now very polished indeed. I took a fall trying to bridge/layaway on i..." 02/Mar

Pobrecito (Bernia)
"please don't climb this route - the clipping above the ledge is dangerous." 02/Mar

Colorines (Montesa)
"A good route. The crux is getting to the first bolt. There is a horizontal jug..." 01/Mar

Route 11 (Murla/Alcalali)
"A fence starts at this route and seems to bar access to the remaining routes to ..." 01/Mar

X Capitulos (Orihuela)
"Great sustained placa route. Best of three I have done here. All pitches feel ab..." 20/Feb

Tormento vertical (Marin)
"short and fun, well protected" 19/Feb

Route 1 (Murla/Alcalali)
"Another route left of Hogfather again about 5+" 12/Feb

Isla de encanta (Sierra de Toix)
"done only first pitch. wall is marvelous and route also." 09/Feb

Novatillos (Gandia)
"A good sustained pitch with good holds right when you need them." 08/Feb

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