Costa Blanca

The muts nuts as far as easily accessible sun rock is concerned. Short or long, trad or sport, roadside or mountain, polished or unclimbed - its got the lot!

Routes

17 boulder problems (S...Proj)
214 winter routes (HVS...8c)
22 dws routes (3+...7c+)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Leyva
A long way south of the popular climbing areas around Benidorm and Calp, lurks...
66
-^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

40 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Mula
Inland from the throbbing metropolis of Murcia you enter real spaghetti-western...
98
^^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill

5 mins

 
La Panocha
Behind the typical bustling city of Murcia is a long range of hills. The high...
95
-^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

6 mins

 
Orihuela
To the north of the old town of Orihuela and its smaller satellite of Callosa...
19
_^--
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Rédovan
La Pancha is situated directly above the town of Rédovan. It has plenty of...
19
_---
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Callosa
To the west of the town of Callosa de Segura is a series of rugged red hills...
56
-^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

 
Marín
To the northwest of the double-town of Elda/Petrer is a prominent...
85
-^^-
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and Down

10 mins

 
Salinas
Salinas is a pleasant crag in a peaceful situation. The routes are...
81
-^^^
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

Restricted Access
Sax
West of the ancient town of Sax is a series of limestone towers overlooking the...
63
-^^-
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Magdelena
This is not a major venue, and a bit 'in the middle of nowhere', hence it...
60
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

1 min

 
Peña del Corb
A short distance north of the centre of Petrer/Elda is 'the tower of the...
22
-^--
Sport
No sun
Uphill

20 mins

Sheltered
Peña Rubia
Peña Rubia has been quite popular in the past and it does have some good...
90
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Foradà
A remote and varied crag with some magnificent climbing on either side of a...
152
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Reconco
Reconco is a fine crag with a good range of middle grade routes on lovely...
47
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Agujas Rojas
Agujas Rojas is a collection of red towers, in a woodland setting, on a...
47
-^^^
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

1 min

Sheltered
Restricted Access
Ibi
A closely-packed set of routes running steeply up the side of a rocky ravine....
42
-^^-
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

10 mins

 
Alcoi Uxola
Alcoi Uxola is not the most popular crag, it's not that the climbing is bad -...
35
_^-^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Cabezon de Oro
Travelling north from Alicante along the motorway, the first mountain of any...
28
---^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Dry in the Rain
Windy
Sella
Sella remains the most popular area in the Costa Blanca. There is enough...
317
^^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Castellets
Sandwiched between the rock climbing Meccas of the Sella valley and the...
36
-^^-
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

 
Puig Campana
As you drive up and down the coast there is one impressive bit of rock which...
33
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

60 mins

Windy
Ponoch
The Ponoch is the massive face of rock that overlooks the town of Polop. It is...
8
_---
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Vall de Guadar
The Vall de Guardar (previously called Echo Valley with crags Echo 1, Echo 2,...
176
^^^^
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

5 mins

Windy
Bolulla
A secluded crag in a lofty situation with great views and a small set of...
14
----
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Abdet
Beyond Guadalest the new coach-road reverts to a more-usual narrow gauge as it...
45
-^^_
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

6 mins

Sheltered
Guadalest
The rocky citadel of Guadalest has always been known as a major tourist trap...
159
^^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

1 min

Sheltered
Bernia
The Bernia Ridge is the spectacular rocky crest that runs from east to west, a...
21
_---
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

3 mins

Windy
Altea
Two contrasting cliffs, both in superb settings. Altea Col is steep and...
37
_^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins

Windy
Mascarat
Often gazed at in awe from the car as you whip through the tunnels on your way...
34
-^^-
Sport
No sun
Level

8 mins

Sheltered
Castellet de Calp
This north-facing crag is an excellent addition to the Calp area crags. It is...
37
_-^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

10 mins

Sheltered
Sierra de Toix
The Sierra de Toix is the impressive ridge that juts out into the sea between...
222
^^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

2 mins

Sheltered
Peñón de Ifach
The most striking landmark in the whole of the Costa Blanca is the 332m high...
30
_-^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
Olta
The impressive ridge of rock which overlooks Calp has a few routes dotted...
43
^^--
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

30 mins

Windy
Pinos
A steep crag in a pleasant location, offering powerful routes and fine views...
41
_-^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

2 mins

Sheltered
Morro Falqui
Morro Falqui is the imposing headland to the north of the beaches and deep...
24
-^-_
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

5 mins

 
Moraira
A fine cliff of high quality rough rock with a handful of quality climbs. The...
11
_^--
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

15 mins

Abseil
Peña Roja
Peña Roja (also know as Lliber after the local town) is one of the most popular...
35
_-^^
Sport
Morning sun
Level

3 mins

Sheltered
Murla
Murla is a short steep edge of rock on the southern rim of the Serra de Seguli...
51
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Alcalalí
Alcalalí is an eastward extension of Murla, just west of its eponymous...
50
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
L'Ocaive
L'Ocaive is the rocky tower south west of Ondara and Pedreguer. It is a large...
41
-^^^
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

12 mins

Dry in the Rain
Windy
Font d'Axia
A small but pleasant crag in a remote-feeling setting, despite only being a...
29
-^-_
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

8 mins

Sheltered
Pego
This pair of buttresses lies on the outskirts of the town of Pego. The lower...
28
-^--
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Segaria
The Serra de Segaria is the long rocky range of hills that bounds the northern...
16
-^-_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

25 mins

 
Gandía
Sitting above a broad orange-filled valley, the red and grey terraced walls of...
182
-^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Sheltered
Salem
Salem is a friendly crag with plenty of easily accessible and well-bolted...
142
^^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

10 mins

 
Bellús
Just to the north of the village of Bellús is an unspectacular looking hillside...
251
-^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

12 mins

 
Aventador
Aventador consists of a long wall of well-pocketed compact rock, with some good...
71
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
El Picayo
El Picayo is a tall face of good quality rock with some long routes. It has...
25
_^^_
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

 
Montesa
Montesa is a great little crag of pocketed rock. The routes are generally...
100
-^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

3 mins

 
Baranc de l'Avern
The Barranc de l'Avern is a deep-cut twisting ravine with a lot of exposed rock...
114
-^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

3 mins

Sheltered
Costa Blanca Ridges
This bundle gives an introduction to the ridge climbs of the Costa Blanca in...
4
--__
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

30 mins

Windy
Cala Ximo - DWS
The micro-crag at Cala Ximo is diminutive, but fun! The cliff itself consists...
4
__-_
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

5 mins

Sheltered
Isla del Descobridor - DWS
This amazing, sausage-shaped island is set just a few metres off the coast,...
6
_--_
Sport
Afternoon sun
Level

5 mins

 
Cala del Moraig - DWS
Cala del Moraig, developed totally from scratch in 2005, is a real DWS plum; an...
34
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
  • Access Issues for Costa Blanca


  • Latest Comments

    For Costa Blanca

    Gladiator (Bellús)
    "The bolts have been pulled on this route." 19/Mar

    Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour (Sierra de Toix)
    "Forgot BD Camalot # .75 (green) placed at the top of last pitch. Thanks," 22/Feb top50

    Le puerta de Anubis (Salinas)
    "What a great route! Considerably undergraded but superb. Tough mid-height crux a..." 23/Jan

    Violeta (Mula)
    "An unbalanced and slightly overrated route. Jug-pulling mostly, then a 6b finish..." 16/Jan

    Tashen Haschen (Bolulla)
    "Interesting wall in the upper part." 04/Jan

    La Cantera (Callosa)
    "the original grade of this route is sandbagging: the V+ (5a) is in reality 5c/6..." 04/Jan

    Corta y Dulce (Alcalalí)
    "Insanely hard if you move left at 3/4 height. The clip is almost impossible to m..." 05/Dec

    Espolón P.D.P. (Rédovan)
    "DO NOT rapel/abseil ! Rapel station impossible to find - you get lost in dangero..." 27/Jun

    Lara (Sierra de Toix)
    "First pitch is scrappy but don't be put off! The 2nd pitch is great and the 3rd..." 15/Jun top50

    Marisol (Foradà)
    "A good route!" 07/Jun

    Copon S.L. (Mula)
    "Very tricky move to the first bolt, enough to make this a 6a. The rest is fun wi..." 01/Jun

    Espolón Central (Puig Campana)
    "Brilliant route! Did it in 3 hours 40 mins (had done it before though). Some ti..." 29/Apr top50

    Joaquin (Vall de Guadar)
    "Yesterday a large rock fell from the route to the left of Joaquina which is mark..." 19/Apr

    Espolón Limaban (Sierra de Toix)
    "Beautiful climb! The second pitch looks and feels bolder than it actually is be..." 10/Apr top50

    Pere flac (Bellús)
    "A must do route. Good all the way but high in the grade" 11/Mar

    Muluk el targuí (Gandía)
    "I'm not sure a long reach is that necessary but being strong will certainly hel..." 11/Jan

    Yorkshire Lads (Alcalalí)
    "Re positioned bolts on the crux make this a much safer and pleasant experience. ..." 09/Jan

    La reina de Africa (Aventador)
    "Felt like a lot more than a grade harder than even the hard 7cs I've done...." 06/Jan

    Menos curas más posturas (Callosa)
    "Great rest deep in the hole! Make sure to rest enough, the final moves are quite..." 05/Jan

    Cocidito madrileño (Ponoch)
    "Do not underestimate pitch 6. The first bolts are so close together that you can..." 19/Dec

    Excalibur (La Panocha)
    "See comments for Follando y..." 30/Nov

    Araña (Callosa)
    "Quite good but I found it hard to read and I agree the moves are 'funny angled s..." 28/Nov

    La Ultima (Mula)
    "A nice route but with quite a stiff pull at the top for the grade." 24/Nov

    Fuig d'Aci (Guadalest)
    "Great route in the scoop! A couple of hard moves in succession between bolts 4-6..." 05/May

    96 octanos (L'Ocaive)
    "New bolts on first RL." 01/May

    Valor y Coraje (Sella)
    "Great route! Superb climbing all the way. Though I agree that other 6a plus on t..." 23/Apr

    Triki, el monstruo (Covatelles)
    "Sharp on the fingers! Very sustained and pumpy! The bulges add to this. >B..." 19/Apr

    Shelter (Vall de Guadar)
    "I took the rest of the glued flake with me out in the air, and the flake below a..." 10/Apr

    Agust (Marín)
    "This is straightforward climbing av grade 4. Nice, but I fail to see the top50 q..." 02/Apr top50

    Pelota Saltarina (Mula)
    "Easiest route here, more like a 2 than a 4+, but quite nice to scramble up" 30/Mar

    Dimensión diamante (Sella)
    "Very nice route not to hard, 8a/8a+ There is indeed a full line to the left nam..." 27/Mar

    La pedra ibérica (Guadalest)
    "An 80 meter rope will take you up and down both pitches. Nice." 27/Mar

    Espolón Central (Puig Campana)
    "A great day out-get a very early start unless you are a superfast climber, parti..." 02/Mar top50

    Rosamonte (L'Ocaive)
    "There are 2 new pitches starting from the lower-off. The one on the left is a ni..." 24/Feb

    Astrokangrena bucólica (Aventador)
    "Brilliant and pumpy" 25/Jan

    El sol (Gandía)
    "Another Gandia classic sandbag! Lovely 6b/6b+ climbing all the way up to the roo..." 14/Jan top50

    Optas (Alcalalí)
    "With start of the route I mean making the move to the third bolt!" 07/Jan

    Maika (Marín)
    "There's a new(?) anchor at about 20m. The old anchor at 32m is also still there...." 02/Jan top50

    Puente aéreo (Marín)
    "Route would be more logically and better for the overall grade if bolts would be..." 29/Dec

    Triple Direct (Mascarat)
    "I don't agree with the upper comment: First pitch isn't well protected at all, a..." 15/Dec

    Gandia Topdeckio 27 (Gandía)
    "Yes - VERY sharp!" 11/Dec

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