Mallorca

The crags and routes in this section of the database use information taken from the Mallorca guidebook published in December 2006.

Note that the '50 of the best routes' below is currently based on very few votes. This gives some curious results and the list of routes it produces does not correspond to the 'Top 50' routes listed in the guidebook.

Routes

2 trad routes (6c...7b)
1375 sport routes (3...9a+)
53 boulder problems (V0 4c...V12 8A+)
4 dws routes (5c...7b+)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Can Ortigues
This small crag is situated on the west side of Mallorca, just north of...
19
----
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

1 min

 
La Vall Verde
La Vall Verde is a very pleasant cliff with a small number of technical climbs...
9
_---
Sport
Morning sun
Level

1 min

Sheltered
Puig de Garrafa
Somewhat isolated from the bulk of the crags on Mallorca, the varied sectors...
78
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

 
Santa Ponça
Santa Ponça is a small crag with a handful of reasonable routes and, although...
8
_---
Sport
No sun
Uphill

2 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Galilea
A great little crag with some brilliant hard routes. The approach is very...
14
__-^
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

2 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Calvià
NOTE - Approach description in 2006 guide is incorrect. Parki
17
-^-_
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Sheltered
Sa Cantera
Sa Cantera is a small but pleasant crag, with a number of decent routes....
13
----
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Sheltered
Es Verger
Es Verger is a lovely crag, set way up in the hills above Esporles. Despite...
32
_-^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

 
S'estret
S'estret is an area of easily accessed crags located just to the south of the...
92
-^^^
Boulder
Sun and shade
Level

2 mins

Sheltered
Valldemossa
Valldemossa is an accessible and popular crag that has a good selection of fine...
56
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

2 mins

Sheltered
Sa Gubia
The huge amphitheatre of Sa Gubia is the most extensive and varied crag on...
121
-^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

30 mins

Seepage
Fraguel
The stunning crag of Fraguel has the best hard sport climbing on the island and...
59
--^^
Sport
Morning sun
Up and Down

20 mins

Seepage
Port de Sóller
The crag at Port de Sóller is typical of many of the smaller crags in Mallorca...
36
_-^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

5 mins

Sheltered
Ca'n Nyic
The beautifully located C'an Nyic crag is a long wall of excellent vertical...
11
----
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

10 mins

 
Gorg Blau
Set high up in the mountains on the long C710 north coast road, Gorg Blau is...
48
---^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Level

6 mins

Seepage
Es Queixal
This is a curious crag which puts to rest the rumour that modern climbers are...
11
_---
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

45 mins

 
Alaró
The huge hulk of Alaró dominates the view towards the mountains when travelling...
57
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

Seepage
Las Perxes
The area known as Les Perxes actually refers to three very different crags...
63
_-^^
Sport
No sun
Level

8 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Es Grau des Ruc
53
_-^^
Sport
No sun
Downhill

20 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
La Creveta
One of the more popular crags on the island is the delightful slabby wall known...
43
-^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

20 mins

 
El Fumat
El Fumat is a huge north west-facing mountain crag perched high above the road...
20
_-^-
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
Xon Xanquete
Xon Xanquete is an extremely steep crag situated towards the end of Cap...
19
_--^
Sport
Evening sun
Downhill

10 mins

Dry in the Rain
Puig St. Marti
A nice little crag with a good west-facing wall. The rock is well weathered,...
15
---_
Sport
No sun
Uphill

2 mins

 
El Calo de Betlem
This fine little crag lies on the eastern tip of the island of Mallorca, near...
27
_-^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Level

15 mins

Sheltered
Ermita de Betlem
The two crags of Ermita de Betlem offer something slightly different to the...
56
_-^^
Sport
No sun
Downhill

13 mins

Seepage
Son Servera
A crag typical of many of the smaller hard crags in Mallorca - good routes, on...
7
_-_-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Castell de Santueri
Perched high on an isolated hilltop, the crag at Felanitx is a lovely place...
22
__-^
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

1 min

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Sa Mola de Felanitx
This is a very small venue which is only worth visiting if you are passing by....
7
--__
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Cala Magraner
The isolated sea inlet and friendly crags of Cala Magraner are a big draw for...
65
-^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

25 mins

Sheltered
Tijuana
Over the years, one of the most popular spots for visiting climbers has been...
62
--^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

6 mins

Sheltered
Cova del Diablo
Mallorca's Cova del Diablo is a masterpiece of architecture, an eye-catching...
36
_^-^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

2 mins

Dry in the Rain
Porto Cristo
The opposite side of the harbour to Cova Del Diablo.
9
_---
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

1 min

 
Porto Cristo Novo
The spectacular cave of Porto Cristo Novo was first discovered by Ken Palmer...
6
_---
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

8 mins

 
Cala Barques
Discovered a year or so after the development of Cova del Diablo, Cala Barques...
48
_-^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

15 mins

 
Porto Colom
Hidden away underneath the Porto Colom lighthouse is this exciting venue, which...
16
__^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

 
Cala Sa Nau
Cala Sa Nau is a small sandy cove, sheltered from the sea by two headlands, one...
19
----
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

 
Cala Mitjana
Down the coast from Cala Sa Nau is Cala Mitjana - a fantastic cliff of good...
9
_---
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

25 mins

 
Cala Serena
Cala Serena is the most extensive venue on the Island, with almost 100 routes...
98
_-^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

8 mins

 
Santanyí
The small bay of Cala Santanyí is best left to those seeking a bit of fun when...
14
----
Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

Dry in the Rain
Cala Llombards
Cala Llombards is for climbers seeking solitude away from the crowds. There are...
9
_---
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

15 mins

 
Sa Calobra
Sa Calobra is a beautiful spot but it often gets very busy, which means your...
7
_---
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

 
Cala Marçal
Cala Marçal is a terrific venue, home to a good variety of easy to mid-grade...
16
---_
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

1 min

 
Porto Pi
Porto Pi is a small venue near the shipyards in Palma and is a convenient...
7
_---
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

1 min

 
  • Access Issues for Mallorca


  • Latest Comments

    For Mallorca

    Steep Rib (Can Ortigues)
    "Changed from *** to 7a+ ***, no votes" 23/Jul

    El vigilant de la platja (Cala Magraner)
    "The traverse totally adds to the excitement, sense of adventure and length of th..." 08/Jul top50

    Nandrolone (Galilea)
    "Changed from 7c *** to 7c+ ***, no votes" 14/Jun

    Aloha from Hell (Fraguel)
    "Hideous pull on crux, crap bolts." 28/May

    Pitopausico (Alaró)
    "Vey nice first pitch with good requiped bolts ;) First bolt too hight, but the ..." 24/May

    Project arista (S'estret)
    "Changed from 8b to , no votes" 09/May

    Sostre den burotet (Valldemossa)
    "The section below the roof has chalk on everything that could possibly be a hold..." 23/Mar top50

    Algo salvage (Sa Gubia)
    "A great climb but hard for 6b!" 15/Mar top50

    The Big Red Stain (Cala Magraner)
    "3rd bolt is broken!!!" 19/Oct

    Mirador (Puig de Garrafa)
    "There is a large "prohibido escalar" (climbing forbidden) sign on the ..." 05/Oct

    Via Llum de Lluna (Sa Gubia)
    "Muy buena vía, mantenida y se deja escalar todo el rato." 18/Aug top50

    Puente aéreo (Sa Gubia)
    "Recently cleaned and re-equiped. good trad route, lots of placements and good cr..." 20/Jun

    Nycinyatos (Ca'n Nyic)
    "The first and second bolt missing, but the climb is very juggy and easy. The bel..." 31/May

    Thirteen Fourteen (La Creveta)
    "i totally aggree on the previous comment. a fantastic pitch. this has to be top ..." 15/May

    Sa sesta (Cala Magraner)
    "Nice route. Head left for the lower off (the same as Galiana m` engana). Pumpy ..." 09/May

    Hard Finish (Fraguel)
    "Bolted the right route." 07/May

    Alzheimer (Puig St. Marti)
    "Not harder than la mosca." 27/Apr

    Si lo sé no vengo (Sa Gubia)
    "Great route, the worst bolt is exactly at the crux" 26/Mar top50

    Decadencia corporal (Sa Gubia)
    "The second pitch is already rebolted!, if you climb both pitches in one it´s an ..." 14/Mar

    Lion Rampant (La Creveta)
    "Has this line been rebolted since 2011? My friend had to abort facing a really p..." 24/Feb

    Na c'al les Seychelles (Tijuana)
    "Julian Henn 02/2013 Great line! Don't miss out on it. Keep left after the little..." 16/Feb top50

    Bufon (Puig de Garrafa)
    "At the right of this route exist a new one, "Aprendizaje por tercios" ..." 11/Dec

    Seis pelas (Sa Gubia)
    "This is not a trad climbing anymore. This route has been recently rebolted by th..." 30/Nov

    Sergi (Puig de Garrafa)
    "So nearly redpointed this on the final day of our trip. Three crux moves, last o..." 21/Oct

    Glückspilz (La Creveta)
    "route line incorrect in current guidebook, bolts are obvious to the left of the ..." 02/Oct

    Sun (Port de Sóller)
    "Climbing allowed, summer 2012 :D" 02/Aug

    Easy Open Groove (Gorg Blau)
    "I think is better 6a+, exists 2 routes at the left, I don't know the grades." 30/May

    Es barbut (Sa Gubia)
    "Quite tricky for the grade" 17/Apr

    Lucas forever (La Vall Verde)
    "Fantastic route! I enjoyed very much doing it. Varied moves until the chain." 05/Apr

    Left Edge (Valldemossa)
    "The name of the route is "streetball"" 03/Jan

    Paramuero (Cala Magraner)
    "Good, fun, short route. 2 stars." 11/Dec

    Lucas (Puig de Garrafa)
    "The crux is the start. Use a long extender to clip the bolt before you do this m..." 19/Nov

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