Most of the routes in this section of the database are taken from the 2009 Pembroke Rockfax and the page numbers refer to that guidebook. Some of the crags are DWS crags and they appear in the book Deep Water.
Routes
690 trad routes (D...E9)
141 dws routes (HVS...8a)
50 of the Best Routes ![]()
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
| Crag (click for details) | No. of Routes | Grade Range | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page | ||||
| Porth-Clais The twin-crag setup of Porth-Clais is an inviting spot, with the two compact... |
13 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 5 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
42 | |||||
| Porth-y-Ffynnon Some 500m east of the cliffs of Porth-Clais are the excellent paired slabs of... |
11 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 10 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
44 | |||||
| Initiation Slabs The Initiation Slabs are typical North Pembroke - surrounded by other craglets... |
10 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 10 mins |
Abseil Windy |
48 | |||||
| Craig Caerfai Another excellent sandstone slab, and with a good choice of grades. The rock... |
14 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 10 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
52 | |||||
| Caerbwdi Bay (Barrel Zawn) Caerbwdi Bay is situated just to the west of the popular Carreg-y-Barcud. There... |
18 | DWS |
Lots of sun! |
Level 15 mins |
152 | ||||||
| Carreg-y-Barcud Carreg-y-Barcud is undoubtedly North Pembroke’s finest sheet of sandstone; its... |
46 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 20 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
56 | |||||
| Flimston Bay Flimston Bay contains the best variety of easy routes in the whole of Pembroke.... |
7 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 20 mins |
Abseil Windy |
65 | |||||
| Crystal Slabs, Mosaic Wall The accessible Crystal Slabs are heaven for people who are into 'VS 4c's.... |
17 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 20 mins |
Windy |
66 | |||||
| Mewsford Mewsford is the best cliff at this end of Range East. There are loads of... |
14 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Level 40 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
72 | |||||
| Crickmail The south-facing aspect of Crickmail’s compact exposed walls provide the... |
9 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 35 mins |
Windy |
74 | |||||
| Triple Overhang Buttress This fine, outstanding buttress (in every sense of the word) is a delight, and... |
4 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 25 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
77 | |||||
| Blockhouse to Sitting Bull Between the jutting headland of the Castle, and the prow of Triple Overhang,... |
13 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 20 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
80 | |||||
| The Castle This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock.... |
29 | Trad |
Morning sun |
Level 20 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
86 | |||||
| Rusty Wall A rugged west-facing slab suspended above a booming zawn, with one of... |
12 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 18 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
92 | |||||
| Misty Walls Which came first, the route names, or the crag name? Whatever way it happened... |
12 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 18 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
95 | |||||
| Breakfast Zawn Breakfast Zawn is a delightful and shapely zawn, found tucked away in the... |
6 | DWS |
Lots of sun! |
Level 20 mins |
Tidal Windy |
- | |||||
| Hollow Caves Bay This large bay has the huge huge square inlet of Box Zawn with its set of... |
23 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 20 mins |
Abseil Tidal |
97 | |||||
| Saddle Head Saddle Head is one of the most popular locations in Pembroke because it... |
21 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 15 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
103 | |||||
| Bosherston Head Bosherston Head is the broad headland between Huntsman's Leap and Saddle Head.... |
43 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 12 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
110 | |||||
| Huntsman's Leap Opinions on Huntsman's Leap vary from the "best crag in the World" to "a grotty... |
47 | Trad |
No sun |
Level 8 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
124 | |||||
| Stennis Head In between the deep inlets of Stennis Ford and Huntsmans leap is the fine... |
48 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 10 mins |
Windy |
138 | |||||
| Stennis Ford This impressive zawn is just a 5 minute walk west along the coast path from St... |
27 | DWS |
Afternoon sun |
Level 5 mins |
Tidal Windy |
148 | |||||
| Newton Head The headland just east of Stennis Ford. It has a number of good deep water... |
17 | DWS |
Afternoon sun |
Level 5 mins |
Tidal Windy |
- | |||||
| Chapel Point Chapel Point is the closest venue to the St Govan’s car park, although it sees... |
8 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 5 mins |
Tidal Windy Restricted Access |
154 | |||||
| Trevallen For some people the hardest thing about Trevallen is getting back out again.... |
59 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 10 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
159 | |||||
| St. Govan's This army-free region needs little introduction for most seasoned visitors;... |
94 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 8 mins |
Windy |
174 | |||||
| St. Govan's East Tucked away at the end of the most popular crag in Pembroke is a great crag... |
32 | Trad |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Level 10 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
188 | |||||
| Broadhaven Beach This region has two main points of interest for deep water soloing. The first... |
8 | DWS |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 20 mins |
Tidal Windy |
- | |||||
| Mowing Word Mowing Word is one of those spots which can elude climbers year after year -... |
35 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 25 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy Restricted Access |
196 | |||||
| Stackpole What an incredible spot; just when you thought you were all done at Pembroke,... |
26 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Level 30 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy Restricted Access |
204 | |||||
| Skrinkle Haven Skrinkle Haven is the delightful area found to the south of the village of... |
10 | DWS |
Lots of sun! |
Downhill 4 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
- | |||||
| Lydstep This complex area is remarkable for its plethora of walls, caves and... |
34 | DWS |
Sun and shade |
Up and Down 7 mins |
Tidal Windy |
- | |||||
| Mother Carey's Mother Carey's Kitchen is one of Pembroke's best crags offering superb climbing... |
61 | DWS |
No sun |
Downhill 10 mins |
Tidal Windy |
92 | |||||
| Penally The Penally Training Camp region is a remarkable and diverse collection of... |
22 | DWS |
Lots of sun! |
Level 10 mins |
Tidal Windy |
- |