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PEMBROKE

Most of the routes in this section of the database are taken from the 2009 Pembroke Rockfax and the page numbers refer to that guidebook. Some of the crags are DWS crags and they appear in the book Deep Water.

ROUTES
690 trad routes (D...E9)
141 dws routes (HVS...8a)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents

Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Porth-Clais
The twin-crag setup of Porth-Clais is an inviting spot, with the two compact...
13
--__
trad lots of sun! level
5 mins
abseiltidalwindy 42
Porth-y-Ffynnon
Some 500m east of the cliffs of Porth-Clais are the excellent paired slabs of...
11
---_
trad lots of sun! level
10 mins
abseiltidalwindy 44
Initiation Slabs
The Initiation Slabs are typical North Pembroke - surrounded by other craglets...
10
--__
trad lots of sun! level
10 mins
abseilwindy 48
Craig Caerfai
Another excellent sandstone slab, and with a good choice of grades. The rock...
14
---_
trad lots of sun! level
10 mins
abseiltidalwindy 52
Caerbwdi Bay (Barrel Zawn)
Caerbwdi Bay is situated just to the west of the popular Carreg-y-Barcud. There...
18
--^-
dws lots of sun! level
15 mins
  152
Carreg-y-Barcud
Carreg-y-Barcud is undoubtedly North Pembroke’s finest sheet of sandstone; its...
46
--^^
trad lots of sun! up+down
20 mins
abseiltidalwindy 56
Flimston Bay
Flimston Bay contains the best variety of easy routes in the whole of Pembroke....
7
---_
trad lots of sun! level
20 mins
abseilwindy 65
Crystal Slabs, Mosaic Wall
The accessible Crystal Slabs are heaven for people who are into 'VS 4c's....
17
_---
trad lots of sun! level
20 mins
windy 66
Mewsford
Mewsford is the best cliff at this end of Range East. There are loads of...
14
__--
trad sun from mid-morning level
40 mins
abseiltidalwindy 72
Crickmail
The south-facing aspect of Crickmail’s compact exposed walls provide the...
9
---_
trad lots of sun! level
35 mins
windy 74
Triple Overhang Buttress
This fine, outstanding buttress (in every sense of the word) is a delight, and...
4
_--_
trad lots of sun! level
25 mins
abseiltidalwindy 77
Blockhouse to Sitting Bull
Between the jutting headland of the Castle, and the prow of Triple Overhang,...
13
---_
trad lots of sun! level
20 mins
abseiltidalwindy 80
The Castle
This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock....
29
---^
trad morning sun level
20 mins
abseiltidalwindy 86
Rusty Wall
A rugged west-facing slab suspended above a booming zawn, with one of...
12
__--
trad afternoon sun level
18 mins
abseiltidalwindy 92
Misty Walls
Which came first, the route names, or the crag name? Whatever way it happened...
12
-_--
trad lots of sun! level
18 mins
abseiltidalwindy 95
Breakfast Zawn
Breakfast Zawn is a delightful and shapely zawn, found tucked away in the...
6
__--
dws lots of sun! level
20 mins
tidalwindy -
Hollow Caves Bay
This large bay has the huge huge square inlet of Box Zawn with its set of...
23
_-^^
trad lots of sun! level
20 mins
abseiltidal 97
Saddle Head
Saddle Head is one of the most popular locations in Pembroke because it...
21
---_
trad lots of sun! level
15 mins
abseiltidalwindy 103
Bosherston Head
Bosherston Head is the broad headland between Huntsman's Leap and Saddle Head....
43
_-^^
trad lots of sun! level
12 mins
abseiltidalwindy 110
Huntsman's Leap
Opinions on Huntsman's Leap vary from the "best crag in the World" to "a grotty...
47
__-^
trad no sun level
8 mins
abseiltidalwindy 124
Stennis Head
In between the deep inlets of Stennis Ford and Huntsmans leap is the fine...
48
-^^^
trad lots of sun! level
10 mins
windy 138
Stennis Ford
This impressive zawn is just a 5 minute walk west along the coast path from St...
27
---^
dws afternoon sun level
5 mins
tidalwindy 148
Newton Head
The headland just east of Stennis Ford. It has a number of good deep water...
17
--^-
dws afternoon sun level
5 mins
tidalwindy -
Chapel Point
Chapel Point is the closest venue to the St Govan’s car park, although it sees...
8
__--
trad lots of sun! level
5 mins
tidalwindyrestrict 154
Trevallen
For some people the hardest thing about Trevallen is getting back out again....
59
_-^^
trad lots of sun! level
10 mins
abseiltidalwindy 159
St. Govan's
This army-free region needs little introduction for most seasoned visitors;...
94
-^^^
trad lots of sun! level
8 mins
windy 174
St. Govan's East
Tucked away at the end of the most popular crag in Pembroke is a great crag...
32
_-^^
trad sun to mid-afternoon level
10 mins
abseiltidalwindy 188
Broadhaven Beach
This region has two main points of interest for deep water soloing. The first...
8
__--
dws lots of sun! up+down
20 mins
tidalwindy -
Mowing Word
Mowing Word is one of those spots which can elude climbers year after year -...
35
_^^-
trad afternoon sun level
25 mins
abseiltidalwindyrestrict 196
Stackpole
What an incredible spot; just when you thought you were all done at Pembroke,...
26
_-^^
trad sun from mid-morning level
30 mins
abseiltidalwindyrestrict 204
Skrinkle Haven
Skrinkle Haven is the delightful area found to the south of the village of...
10
_--_
dws lots of sun! downhill
4 mins
abseiltidalwindy -
Lydstep
This complex area is remarkable for its plethora of walls, caves and...
34
-^--
dws sun+shade up+down
7 mins
tidalwindy -
Mother Carey's
Mother Carey's Kitchen is one of Pembroke's best crags offering superb climbing...
61
--^^
dws no sun downhill
10 mins
tidalwindy 92
Penally
The Penally Training Camp region is a remarkable and diverse collection of...
22
--^-
dws lots of sun! level
10 mins
tidalwindy -
 What do these symbols mean?
Averages, based on the largest buttress at each crag
Latest Comments
PEMBROKE
Chieftain (St. Govan's)
"My 4th route climbed in Pembroke. I second opinions it's hard for the grade." 31/Aug

Be Brave (Carreg-y-Barcud)
"Overall it felt quite low in the grade to me but a good route" 31/Aug

Mythical Monster (Huntsman's Leap)
"I thought this was low in the grade, and something of anticlimax after what I'd ..." 31/Aug

Keelhaul (Bosherston Head)
"Brilliant, should be in the Top 50" 31/Aug

The Whaler (Stackpole)
"P1 is 5a; a great pitch, HVS climbing in an E5 situation. Neither Rockfax nor..." 16/Aug

Adam Adamant (Stackpole)
"The topo shown in the Rockfax guide is of a completely different route! Adam A..." 16/Aug

Mean Streak (Stennis Head)
"Agreed, nice climbing, good rock, great position. Very steady for E5." 13/Aug

Unknown Sentry (Craig Caerfai)
"A nice slabby intro then stonking gear for the short, sharp crux (which I'd give..." 26/Jul

Test Case (St. Govan's)
"Agree with Chris Parson, I found buckets of gear after leaving the roof, and on ..." 26/Jul top50

Just Klingon (Mother Carey's)
"Finished up the right hand groove (to the right of the last big thread), and pro..." 26/Jun

Sunlover (Trevallen)
"It used to be possible to place a good no.6 wire from standing in the first brea..." 21/Jun top50

Mean Streak (Stennis Head)
"This description really needs to be changed. General consensus is that this is ..." 21/Jun

Dinkum Wall (Trevallen)
"First pitch is tough for E1 5b and bold to start. Second pitch currently has a ..." 25/May

Rosary (Initiation Slabs)
"Perfect HS climb with spaced protection all the way and good holds just when you..." 24/May

Tempest (Mother Carey's)
"Agree with Felix, very good route, with 1 short 5c section, needs working out, g..." 19/May

Ghost Train (Stennis Ford)
"After three of us did this yesterday, and lengthy debate, we reckoned E6 6a is a..." 10/May

Sunlover (Trevallen)
"such a lovely route and all the time i had groove armada's 'sunlover' in my heed..." 06/May top50

Surprise Attack (Mewsford)
"cheeky move of the belay...... more like an easy E2??" 30/Apr

Blucher (St. Govan's)
"Great climbing, pretty hard and blind up the final arete. The threads seemes ok..." 28/Apr

Armorican (Craig Caerfai)
"Superb route. Upper slab is unprotected but easy. Climbing below is sustained an..." 16/Apr

Head Hunter (Huntsman's Leap)
"Definitely not high in the grade or particularly bold, great gear where you need..." 10/Mar top50

Foot and Mouth (Initiation Slabs)
"I did this route in September, it would be a very serious lead, not wise to fall..." 02/Nov

Flax of Dream (Mowing Word)
"This ia a great little line but a bit unbalanced. Its easy peasy up to the 'woul..." 13/Oct

Munchies (St. Govan's)
"Easy for the strong,or if you regularly climb E1 or above, otherwise you could e..." 11/Oct

The Fermenting Telescope (Carreg-y-Barcud)
"Maybe I'd been spoilt on the slabs, but this felt like very hard sustained climb..." 05/Oct

Marathon (Crickmail)
"Having lead Areo and seconded Tinker Tailor, I can only say that this was the ea..." 21/Sep

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