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DEVON

There is a lot of climbing in Devon ranging from the slabs, culm and granite of the North Coast on well known crag, to the high tors of Dartmoor and the wild lines at Berry Head.
This database contains the routes in the West Country Climbs Rockfax.

ROUTES
210 trad routes (M...E9)
58 sport routes (6a...8c)
118 dws routes (E1...8a)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents

Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Baggy Point
The jutting prows of Baggy Point have for many decades been the traditional...
25
-^--
trad sun from mid-morning uphill
25 mins
abseiltidalwindyrestrict 94
Blackchurch
The brooding nature of the Blackchurch's northerly aspect, green tinge of...
8
_---
trad no sun downhill
25 mins
seepagewindy 112
Dyer's Lookout
Dyer's Lookout is an extremely impressive sheet of culm, and the climbs on it...
6
_---
trad evening sun downhill
15 mins
tidalwindy 118
Screda Point
The jagged promontory of Screda Poin offers up some fine pitches on excellent...
10
_---
trad afternoon sun up+down
5 mins
tidalwindy 122
Speke's Mill Mouth
A lovely little section of cliff set well back from the sea and a useful escape...
1
__-_
trad no sun up+down
15 mins
  123
Gull Rock
The Main Slab is a smooth sheet of low-angled culm set in a sunny position that...
10
_---
trad lots of sun! level
25 mins
tidalwindy 124
Cornakey Cliff
Cornakey Cliff is composed of a series of overlapping slabs of generally poor...
3
_--_
trad afternoon sun up+down
25 mins
tidalwindy 124
Vicarage Cliff
Vicarage Cliff is one of the most pleasant and least serious of the Culm...
9
---_
trad lots of sun! up+down
30 mins
tidalwindy 130
Oldwalls' Point
Oldwalls' Point holds one of the least trodden bits of classic culm, in the...
2
__-_
trad no sun downhill
40 mins
tidalwindy 134
Chudleigh Rocks
Chudleigh Rocks has a long history of climbing and has provided the learning...
28
-^--
trad lots of sun! level
5 mins
  6
Torbryan Quarry
Another attraction for sport climbers in Devon is Torbryan Quarry. Although...
15
__--
sport afternoon sun downhill
5 mins
seepagedry in rainrestrict 314
Haytor
Haytor is one of Devon’s most popular tourist attractions and rightly so. The...
7
---_
trad afternoon sun uphill
5 mins
windy 17
Hound Tor
The jumble of boulders and granite tors that make up Hound Tor hold some of the...
10
----
trad afternoon sun uphill
5 mins
windy 320
Bench Tor
Tucked away on the edge of Dartmoor is one of the smaller chunks of granite to...
4
---_
trad lots of sun! uphill
15 mins
windy 324
Sheeps Tor
Sheeps Tor is a wall of vertical granite, split by cracks of all shapes and...
12
--__
trad morning sun uphill
5 mins
windy 326
The Dewerstone
The Dewerstone is located in the magical ancient wooded valleys of south-west...
15
---_
trad sun to mid-afternoon uphill
10 mins
  12
Berry Head
The massive yawning mouth of the Old Redoubt's Great Cave is one of the most...
13
_---
trad morning sun downhill
3 mins
tidalwindy 346
Daddyhole
Daddyhole - 'The Home of the Devil' - is a spectacular and picturesque series...
21
----
trad morning sun downhill
12 mins
tidalwindy 355
Anstey's Cove
Anstey’s Cove has some of the best and toughest sport climbing in Britain and...
64
_-^^
sport sun from mid-morning downhill
8 mins
dry in rainwindy 308
Long Quarry Point
The main, central section of the crag is 30m high and overhangs at around 30...
11
-_--
trad afternoon sun downhill
10 mins
tidalwindy 366
Berry Head DWS
Welcome to Berry Head, Devon's deep water soloing Mecca, with its profusion of...
73
-^^-
dws sun+shade downhill
15 mins
tidalwindy 100
Torquay DWS
The Torquay area is full of DWS surprises, all found on the eastern side of...
40
-^-^
dws lots of sun! downhill
15 mins
tidalwindy 118
 What do these symbols mean?
Averages, based on the largest buttress at each crag
Latest Comments
DEVON
Smoke Gets In Your Eyes (Chudleigh Rocks)
"short, desperate, insecure, awkward, but still strangely enjoyable." 26/Aug

Gates of Eden (Daddyhole)
"The first two pitches can be done in one." 21/Aug

Wind Wall (Sheeps Tor)
"Fun little climb with great finger locks and jamming. Bags of gear all the way t..." 09/Aug

The Verger (Blackchurch)
"First belay is rubbish. Second pitch is filthy. Top pitch is well worth it. Don'..." 02/Aug

Black Ice (Long Quarry Point)
"This is a tremendous route - well worth the three stars. The moves into the shal..." 02/Aug

Peggy Potato (Torbryan Quarry)
"Vicious fingery move to start, then easy" 02/Aug

Honour Bright Arete (Torquay DWS)
"I think I made the route considerably harder a couple of years ago by pulling of..." 26/Jul

American Express (Anstey's Cove)
"THIN but all the holds are there...good route just a pity it doesn't go on longe..." 19/Jul

Jehovah Kill (Torquay DWS)
"Careful of the sharp edged flake, it can slice falling fingers..." 18/Jul

Might and Main (Anstey's Cove)
"Brutal start to a high first bolt. A scarey run out section. Very nice moves. Fe..." 30/Jun

Empire of the Sun (Anstey's Cove)
"There is a new first bolt" 26/Jun top50

Thread Flintstone (Torbryan Quarry)
"This is not 7b. Empire is 7b. This is hard 7a+." 22/Jun top50

C.C. Ordinary (The Dewerstone)
"Climbed this again last night and thoroughly enjoyed it. The traverse of the fir..." 19/May top50

Matchless (Oldwalls' Point)
"Don't agree that this route is particularly sustained. The start is a bit, but n..." 18/May

Mortality Crisis (Chudleigh Rocks)
"There are two directs on this. Most obvious- go straight from the peg at the top..." 22/Apr

The Spider (Chudleigh Rocks)
"Peg on first pitch has been chopped through the eye. Makes the pitch bolder as t..." 04/Oct top50

Magical Mystery Tour (Berry Head DWS)
"Brilliant!" 08/Sep top50

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