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Northern England

The routes, star ratings and grades in this section correspond exactly to the Northern England Rockfax published in February 2008. If you have a comment about any particular route, or an opinion on the grade or star-rating - agree or disagree - then this is the place to have your say. All opinions are taken into consideration when we update the guidebook.

Routes

1975 trad routes (M...E9)
313 boulder problems (f3...f8B+)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Pule Hill
A cliff with two contrasting sets of climbs. In the centre are the extensive...
78
^^--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

 
Shooter's Nab
A long abandoned quarry overlooking the town of Marsden, to the south west of...
25
-^--
Trad
No sun
Uphill

30 mins

Restricted Access
Heptonstall Quarry
A secluded but imposing quarry, cut into the hillside, below the charming...
20
_---
Trad
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins

Sheltered
Widdop
A fine set of rounded buttresses looking out over the Widdop Reservoir and the...
40
-^--
Trad
No sun
Uphill

15 mins

 
Earl Crag
One of Yorkshire's finest gritstone cliffs, though its rather remote setting,...
62
-^^^
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

5 mins

 
Ilkley
Ilkley has been a popular destination for generations of climbers. Sitting...
150
^^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

3 mins

Sheltered
The Chevin
The Chevin overlooks the lower reaches of the Wharfe Valley to the east of...
16
----
Trad
No sun
Uphill

7 mins

 
Caley
Almost an urban cliff, Caley is the quick-hit of choice for Leeds-based...
91
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Uphill

5 mins

Sheltered
Almscliff
Yorkshire's finest and no arguments are allowed. A warty lump of premier...
118
^^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

 
Eastby
A great little cliff, slabby and tall, in a sunny position and with the added...
16
----
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

Sheltered
Restricted Access
Crookrise
One of Yorkshire's premier venues and a long-time evening favourite despite the...
61
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
Rylstone
A fine crag, one of Yorkshire's best, guarded by a decent walk up which tends...
63
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

35 mins

 
Simon's Seat
A classic Yorkshire cliff - a true summit, miles from the road and...
32
-^--
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

40 mins

 
Brimham Rocks
Brimham Rocks is set on the edge of the moor, just to the east of the central...
172
^^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

2 mins

Sheltered
Eavestone Crag
Eavestones is a bit of a Lost World, once a lightly wooded valley with pretty...
30
--^-
Trad
Sun and shade
Downhill

3 mins

Sheltered
Slipstones
A fine little cliff, not unlike a northern version of Burbage, though...
173
^^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

 
Crag Willas
This small crag is about as remote as you could wish for, set in a position of...
53
^^--
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

30 mins

 
Goldsborough Carr
The only crag in the Yorkshire section which isn't actually in Yorkshire,...
47
^-^-
Boulder
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

 
Scugdale
This lovely little edge is the most popular venue on the North York Moors and...
119
^^^-
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

8 mins

Sheltered
Wainstones
The Wainstones is one of the original climbing venues of the North York Moors,...
65
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

 
Raven's Scar
An impressively situated crag with a big feel about it, Raven's Scar wouldn't...
38
-^^-
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

15 mins

Seepage
Highcliff Nab
Highcliff Nab sits in a splendid position just to the south of Guisborough. The...
19
----
Trad
No sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
Park Nab
A tiny cliff in a lovely setting, with a good selection of climbs, and only a...
27
^^--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

 
Causey Quarry
Not one of the North East's prime venues, but the cliff's accessibility,...
24
-^--
Trad
No sun
Downhill

3 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Crag Lough
An austere crag with a long climbing history - the most impressive cliff in...
42
^^--
Trad
Evening sun
Up and Down

20 mins

Restricted Access
Peel Crag
The western extension of Crag Lough has a similar ambience, though in general...
25
----
Trad
Evening sun
Downhill

10 mins

 
Callerhues
A small cliff, up to about 10m high, in a superbly wild setting - up on the...
49
--^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

40 mins

 
Great Wanney
A fine crag with many excellent climbs across the grade range, including a...
46
^^-^
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
East Woodburn
Also known as Staniel Heugh, this nice little crag, with four small buttresses,...
20
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

 
Sandy Crag
Sandy Crag (marked as Key Heugh on some maps) has a small selection of climbs...
19
_---
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

50 mins

 
Ravensheugh
Ravensheugh is perhaps Northumberland's most enigmatic venue; a super crag in a...
83
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

50 mins

 
Simonside
A fine cliff in a lovely setting, though tilted a bit too much towards the...
68
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

30 mins

 
Drake Stone
Reputedly Northumberland's biggest boulder; this interesting little venue is in...
14
----
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Corby's Crag
Corby's is a lovely cliff in an idyllic setting, with a good spread of routes,...
44
-^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Downhill

3 mins

Sheltered
Bowden Doors
Perhaps the archetypal Northumbrian crag, Bowden Doors has everything; over 150...
126
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

3 mins

 
Back Bowden Doors
A lovely crag tucked away in a sheltered wooded valley to the west of Belford....
59
--^^
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill

5 mins

Sheltered
Kyloe in the Wood
An accurate name for a lovely little crag hidden away in a huge and silent...
70
^^^^
Boulder
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Kyloe out the Wood
A small but varied set of buttresses tucked away in a sheltered valley, often...
59
^^--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

10 mins

Sheltered
Berryhill
A charming little cliff, the most northerly in the book, tucked away in a...
26
----
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

10 mins

Restricted Access
  • Latest Comments

    For Northern England

    Sunset (Peel Crag)
    "My first lead for 20 years and what a great way to get back into the swing of th..." 14/Apr

    The Nadser (Kyloe in the Wood)
    "Changed from f7B+ 6c * to f7B+ *, no votes" 14/Apr

    S Crack (Ilkley)
    ""Wide start"? - Awkward finger jams, probably 5a, but rest has big hol..." 25/Mar

    Curving Crack (Heptonstall Quarry)
    "Pretty honest VS 4C jamming, this one." 23/Mar

    Poseidon Adventure (Bowden Doors)
    "A small hold on the top wall has broken off (Jan/Mar 15). this makes the (usual)..." 03/Mar top50

    A Step Class (Park Nab)
    "Changed from HVD to S 4b, 100% of 1 vote for S" 26/Feb

    Take No Notice (Brimham Rocks)
    "Does this route go straight up or move left at the top to the large pocket? It's..." 17/Nov

    Moby Dick (Raven's Scar)
    "I'm not sure what grade this is as I backed off, but it's definitely not HS 4b! ..." 25/Jun

    The Padder (Eastby)
    "An excellent slab, and well-loved - certainly not just 1*. @Luke: Always amus..." 09/Aug

    Letterbox Wall (Causey Quarry)
    "I tricky move away from the letter box" 12/Jun

    Ricochet Wall (Shooter's Nab)
    "Very very good!" 10/Jun top50

    Rat au Vin (Earl Crag)
    "Sandbag!" 03/May

    Frankland's Green Crack (Almscliff)
    "Dirty and very awkward. How long does it take the symptoms of Pigeon-Fancier's ..." 21/Apr top50

    Angel's Wall (Caley)
    "Not in any way a boulder problem - why change from HVS 5a?" 28/Mar

    East Sphinx Direct (Wainstones)
    "I go with Franco @ HS 5b - hard move(s) all low down." 23/Sep

    Spinnaker (Eavestone Crag)
    "The move off the first ledge is quite reachy, definitely harder for the short." 23/Aug

    Birdlime Traverse (Almscliff)
    "Seems a funny choice to upgrade to HVS - yes it's really hard at that grade, but..." 02/Aug top50

    Gary Cooper (Caley)
    "Originally soled and given a grade of HVS!" 20/Jun

    Anticyclone (Heptonstall Quarry)
    "This description is incorrect. Anticyclone climbs TRL until it is possible to sw..." 06/Jun

    Impregnable (Slipstones)
    "Yes there is, more obvious from the ground than when up there..." 28/Mar

    Ch-Ching (Raven's Scar)
    "I can't delete them but I take back most of the above comments! I did a climb b..." 11/Jan

    Thumper (Eastby)
    "Onsighted this and thought benchmark E4 5c, soft. Also onsighted the direct star..." 13/Oct top50

    Pieces of Eight (Drake Stone)
    "Climbed this yesterday - it's nowhere near 5b. Like the previous poster, I recko..." 01/Oct

    Mousehole Slab (Earl Crag)
    "HVS 4c - pretty nasty sandbag at VS and could hurt someone. The move to get your..." 21/Aug

    Extraction (Rylstone)
    "Can't believe it's only got 2 stars in the guide books. This is one of the very ..." 29/Jul

    Audacity (Corby's Crag)
    "14 July 2011 Just visited Audacity and found that some mindless vandals have pus..." 18/Jul

    Desperate Dan (Ilkley)
    "Brilliant route and pretty safe with a couple of mats. Modern highballing at it..." 27/Jun top50

    Oak Tree Slab (Ilkley)
    "How can an unprotected 4b slab get S 4b? MVS 4b would be closer, or maybe HS 4a ..." 15/Jun

    Fag Slab Variant (Brimham Rocks)
    "Not straightforward. Feet! Are you supposed to go straight up at top of overla..." 09/Jun

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