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West Country Climbs

This database contains the routes in the West Country Climbs Rockfax.

Routes

640 trad routes (M...E9)
80 sport routes (6a...8c)
139 dws routes (E1...8a)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Avon Gorge
The huge winding gash of the Avon Gorge holds the UK's biggest and best urban...
68
-^^^
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Roadside

0 mins

 
Portishead Quarry
Just to the west of the M5 south of Bristol is a limestone quarry that offers a...
5
_-_-
Trad
 
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
Split Rock Quarry
Well concealed on the lower slopes of the rolling tree-covered Mendip Hills is...
8
__--
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
Uphill Quarry
Uphill Quarry is a towering sheet of blank limestone that faces out across a...
3
___-
Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
Level

2 mins

 
Brean Down
The south-facing line of low limestone crags that stretch out into the Bristol...
22
_--^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

 
Baggy Point
The jutting prows of Baggy Point have for many decades been the traditional...
25
-^--
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

25 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access
Blackchurch
The brooding nature of the Blackchurch's northerly aspect, green tinge of...
8
_---
Trad
No sun
Downhill

25 mins

Seepage
Smoothlands
Smoothlands is an extremely impressive sheet of culm, and the climbs on them...
2
___-
Trad
Evening sun
Downhill

25 mins

Tidal
Dyer's Lookout
Dyer's Lookout is an extremely impressive sheet of culm, and the climbs on it...
6
_---
Trad
Evening sun
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
Screda Point
The jagged promontory of Screda Poin offers up some fine pitches on excellent...
10
_---
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

5 mins

Tidal
Speke's Mill Mouth
A lovely little section of cliff set well back from the sea and a useful escape...
1
__-_
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

15 mins

Sheltered
Gull Rock
The Main Slab is a smooth sheet of low-angled culm set in a sunny position that...
10
_---
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

25 mins

Tidal
Cornakey Cliff
Cornakey Cliff is composed of a series of overlapping slabs of generally poor...
3
_--_
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

25 mins

Tidal
Vicarage Cliff
Vicarage Cliff is one of the most pleasant and least serious of the Culm...
9
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

30 mins

Tidal
Oldwalls' Point
Oldwalls' Point holds one of the least trodden bits of classic culm, in the...
2
__-_
Trad
No sun
Downhill

40 mins

Tidal
Chudleigh Rocks
Chudleigh Rocks has a long history of climbing and has provided the learning...
37
-^^-
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

6 mins

Sheltered
Torbryan Quarry
Another attraction for sport climbers in Devon is Torbryan Quarry. Although...
15
__--
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Restricted Access
Haytor
Haytor is one of Devon’s most popular tourist attractions and rightly so. The...
25
----
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

 
Hound Tor
The jumble of boulders and granite tors that make up Hound Tor hold some of the...
10
----
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

 
Bench Tor
Tucked away on the edge of Dartmoor is one of the smaller chunks of granite to...
4
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

 
Sheeps Tor
Sheeps Tor is a wall of vertical granite, split by cracks of all shapes and...
12
--__
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

 
The Dewerstone
The Dewerstone is located in the magical ancient wooded valleys of south-west...
18
---_
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Berry Head
The massive yawning mouth of the Old Redoubt's Great Cave is one of the most...
13
_---
Trad
Morning sun
Downhill

3 mins

Tidal
Berry Head DWS
Welcome to Berry Head, Devon's deep water soloing Mecca, with its profusion of...
73
-^^-
DWS
Sun and shade
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
Daddyhole
Daddyhole - 'The Home of the Devil' - is a spectacular and picturesque series...
21
----
Trad
Morning sun
Downhill

12 mins

Tidal
Anstey's Cove
Anstey’s Cove has some of the best and toughest sport climbing in Britain and...
53
_-^^
Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

8 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Long Quarry Point
The main, central section of the crag is 30m high and overhangs at around 30...
24
---^
DWS
Lots of sun!
Level

15 mins

 
London Bridge (Torquay) DWS
The Torquay area is full of DWS surprises, all found on the eastern side of...
28
----
DWS
Lots of sun!
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
Lower Sharpnose
Lower Sharpnose has some of the best single pitch sea cliff climbs in Britain....
36
_--^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Downhill

20 mins

Tidal
Compass Point
The overlapping, high-angled slabs that dominate the jutting prow of Compass...
6
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

10 mins

Tidal
Cheesewring Quarry
Carved out of the compact granite of Bodmin Moor, Cheesewring Quarry has for...
18
----
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

13 mins

Sheltered
The Devil's Jump
A tall isolated buttress of good quality granite set in an idyllic wooded...
1
-___
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

15 mins

Sheltered
Roche Rock
Roche Rock has a long standing folklore attached to it and was among the first...
9
----
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

2 mins

 
Tintagel
The island of Tintagel - purportedly the site of Camelot in Arthurian legend -...
3
___-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

20 mins

Restricted Access
Doyden Point
Doyden Point is a friendly cliff that enjoys a sunny outlook and has a choice...
4
_---
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Abseil
Pentire Head
Pentire Head's Great Wall is without a shadow of a doubt one of the UK's finest...
5
___-
Trad
Evening sun
Up and Down

15 mins

 
Carn Gowla
The massive cliffs that fringe the bleak St Agnes Head south of the tranquil...
14
----
Trad
Afternoon sun
Downhill

5 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Zennor
Zennor Crag is a small but useful crag being located well above the sea away...
2
_-__
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

12 mins

 
Gurnard's Head
A superbly-located zawn of vertigo-inducing steepness, whose black walls plunge...
6
_---
Trad
Afternoon sun
Downhill

15 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Carn Gloose
The dark greenstone headlands of Carn Gloose and Robin's Rocks have some...
1
__-_
Trad
Afternoon sun
Downhill

20 mins

Abseil
Robin's Rocks
A compact, isolated buttress that has bags of atmosphere. The approach and...
1
_-__
Trad
Afternoon sun
Downhill

25 mins

Abseil
Bosigran
Bosigran is where many climbers get their first taste of Cornish granite and is...
42
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Downhill

12 mins

 
Kenidjack
Kenidjack's Main Cliff is an impressive sweep of killas slate that glows a...
6
_--_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Abseil
Sheltered
Sennen
The squat, blunt nose of black and golden granite that protects the village of...
34
-^--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

12 mins

 
Lands End
Although only a stone's throw from the bustling tourist attractions that cap...
12
----
Trad
Afternoon sun
Downhill

5 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Pordenack Point
Pordenack Point is a convenient and tranquil series of buttresses that hosts a...
10
----
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

15 mins

Tidal
Carn Les Boel
Carn Les Boel and Zawn Kellys are remote cliffs that are often unoccupied. The...
4
_-_-
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

25 mins

Abseil
Zawn Kellys
A splendid cliff that can be easily combined with climbing at the nearby Carn...
1
__-_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Carn Barra
Carn Barra has a sunny aspect, high quality rock, classy climbs, easy access...
24
----
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

20 mins

Tidal
Fox Promontory
Fox Promontory is composed of excellent vertical granite and, although tidal...
7
_-__
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Chair Ladder
Chair Ladder is one of the UK's premier destinations for multi-pitch sea-cliff...
17
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

12 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Porthgwarra
Close to the charming fishing cove of Porthgwarra and the perfectly...
5
--__
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

Tidal
Vessacks West
A small but delightfully-located cliff that has a couple of very interesting...
2
_--_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Tidal
St. Levan's Wall
A short, tough wall of excellent rock that is very close to a magnificent...
4
-_-_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

12 mins

Tidal
Cribba Head
The intimidating aretes, rounded cracks and deep corners found here are some of...
9
_---
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

15 mins

 
St. Loy
Remote and beautifully positioned well above the sea, the main face of St. Loy...
3
__--
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

40 mins

Sheltered
Tater Du
An underrated cliff that proves to be an extensive and fairly intimidating...
2
_-__
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

30 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Trewavas Head
Trewavas Head is a small, granite crag that has a number of popular climbs, set...
7
---_
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

20 mins

Sheltered
Coastguard Cliff
An extensive buttress with one relatively popular route that wends its way...
7
_--_
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

10 mins

 
Pen Olver
A delightful area that has a good collection of routes spanning a broad grade...
14
----
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

15 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Bass Point
An enticing wall that juts out into the sea and provides the Lizard with its...
4
_---
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

15 mins

Abseil
Tidal
The Lizard DWS
The Lizard, mainland Britain's most southerly point, is renowned for its warm...
7
---_
DWS
Lots of sun!
Downhill

10 mins

Tidal
Nare Head DWS
The deep water soloing of Cornwall's isolated Nare Head was discovered in July...
18
--^-
DWS
Morning sun
Downhill

10 mins

Tidal
  • Latest Comments

    For West Country Climbs

    Chien Lunatique (Screda Point)
    "The upper part of the arete has fallen out. This makes the top section harder an..." 30/Apr

    Terrier's Tooth (Chair Ladder)
    "Changed from VD *** to HS 4b ***, 0% of 1 vote for HS" 11/Mar

    Caravanserai (Compass Point)
    "The route no longer exists. An attempt to climb the remains of the corner result..." 14/Sep

    Terrier's Tooth (Chair Ladder)
    "Does anyone know more about the damage to pitch 1 in last winters storms? see w..." 07/Sep

    Twinkletoes (Baggy Point)
    "Hopefully someone will take a crowbar to that detached block. It is lethal and w..." 19/Aug

    Mastodon (Gurnard's Head)
    "One of the UK's greatest wall climbs. Absolutely superb from start to finish. Do..." 03/Aug

    Beaker Route (Bosigran)
    "Seriously run out second pitch with real ground fall potential. The only runners..." 20/May

    Overhanging Corner (Sennen)
    "Plain bloody awkwardness at the top of the slab !" 22/Apr

    Break On Through (Lower Sharpnose)
    "Beautiful route of the very highest quality. Miles off E4, the holds are mas..." 20/Apr top50

    Tide Rising (Brean Down)
    "First F7b+, having worked the moves on a previous trip!! Wonderful route." 23/Sep

    Wraith (Lower Sharpnose)
    "great route but another soft tick, more like E3 than E5" 27/Feb

    Wogs (Chudleigh Rocks)
    "Chris Hurlock c.hurlock@harbourchallenge.co.uk Great climb polished at the b..." 15/Dec top50

    Yellow Edge (Avon Gorge)
    "An exercise in head-climbing. Never very hard technically, but the height & ..." 10/Sep

    Yardarm (Berry Head)
    "Certainly an interesting route. Amazing positions and decent gear (take lots of ..." 02/Sep

    Desolation Row (Bosigran)
    "Outstanding and steady climbing, reasonably protected with small cams etc but t..." 19/Jul

    Sacre Coeur (Blackchurch)
    "Do not underestimate the pain that to be meted out by this route. After Sacre Co..." 22/Jun top50

    Them (Avon Gorge)
    "Almost E4? Sequence from the first peg to the base of the groove is hard, on les..." 19/Jun

    M1 (Avon Gorge)
    "unless it has changed - and i've done it three times in the last twenty five yea..." 14/Apr

    St Gregory the Wonder Worker (Anstey's Cove)
    "very scary route on the second section. hard in grade.good fun thou" 17/Feb

    Mirage (Avon Gorge)
    "Did this straight after Arms Race, but even so, the crux felt HARD. You get a se..." 03/Nov

    Last Laugh (Lower Sharpnose)
    "Felt a bit bold after the (tough) crux move" 29/Oct

    New Horizons (Avon Gorge)
    "The second pitch is probably more 5b than 5c." 13/Oct

    Wreckers' Slab (Cornakey Cliff)
    "A superb atmospheric outing. Very straight forward climbing which, without th..." 26/Sep

    Urizen (Baggy Point)
    "Actually preferred this to Lost Horizon! Weird climbing as you bridge between a ..." 26/Sep

    Fly On The Wall (The Dewerstone)
    "Definate classic climb I took a group of kids up this rock they loved it and i l..." 22/Sep top50

    Diocese (Chair Ladder)
    "Its the first pitch that takes some working out! Especially if the sea's a bit '..." 10/Sep

    Crimtyphon (Compass Point)
    "Low in the grade for E2 & probably 5b" 07/Sep

    Needle Arete (The Dewerstone)
    "The first pitch is well worth doing (and not a layback, at least not the way I d..." 04/Sep top50

    Great Central Route (Avon Gorge)
    "A very good varied route. But why the sustained symbol?" 22/Aug

    Bow Wall (Bosigran)
    "Fantastic route and having done it many times now I am confident that 'the move'..." 24/Jul

    Blazing Apostles (Anstey's Cove)
    "I cleaned up the corner, ripped a load of grass out and brushed some soil/ dust ..." 09/Jul

    The Devonian (Lower Sharpnose)
    "Fingery & hard low down, technical & balancey & fingery high up. Top..." 04/Jul

    Rosebud in June (Zennor)
    "Protection at the start is actually quite good. Excellent climbing, much cleane..." 16/Jun

    Twang (Chudleigh Rocks)
    "This was HVS in the Nick White CC guide. E1 seems fair now the peg has gone and ..." 22/May

    Ochre Slab Route l (Bosigran)
    "VS 4c - with the crux being pitch 1. Pitch 2 is straight forward, well protected..." 06/May

    Loose Woman (Blackchurch)
    "Really worthwhile and definitely E1, albeit low in the grade. The crux move isn'..." 04/May

    Limbo (Avon Gorge)
    "I agree: we didn't bother with p2" 03/May

    Hell Gates (Avon Gorge)
    "Great route...better to combine 1st two pitches into one long lead imho. Exiting..." 10/Apr

    Blinding Flash (Daddyhole)
    "Another good route on the slab but not as sustained as Flash Dance and with a sh..." 31/Mar

    Thread Flintstone (Torbryan Quarry)
    "Sorry Mr H I disagree I did empire second go and thought it was a path once you ..." 24/Feb top50

    Pearl Harbour (Brean Down)
    "Better of the two 7a's and fluffable if you are a muppet after the initial jug p..." 21/Feb

    Tide Rising (Brean Down)
    "Locals told me a hold came off and Ian Vickers failed to onsight it? General con..." 31/Jan

    The Midas Touch (Daddyhole)
    "It's worth mentioning that 'continuing up the line' takes you up to a flake syst..." 24/Jan

    Milky Bar Kid (Brean Down)
    "This is a quality outing. The moves from prisoner to the break of bullworker ar..." 11/Jan

    Sacre Coeur (Blackchurch)
    "claiming two new routes that were done in 90's and 00's that were recorded on lo..." 25/Dec top50

    Excelsior (Chair Ladder)
    "Didn't find it that bold good cam placements. found lower crack pitch harder th..." 29/Sep

    Shangri-La (Baggy Point)
    "A contender for the best Severe in the world" 27/Sep

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