Peak Limestone

Scattered tors, towers and edges, often hidden in deep wooded dales, the limestone cliffs have both trad and sport climbing on cliffs that are taller than is the norm for gritstone. The fine grained rock tends to polish relatively easy so the most popular climbs have become harder over the years. High Tor is doubtless the areas premier crag though Wildcat, Stoney Middleton, the Manifold valley and Cheedale have plenty to delight the climber. Limestone has been quarried for centuries and the whole area is peppered with abandoned holes in the ground. In recent years many of these have been developed to provide sport climbs across the grade spectrum, Horseshoe and Harpur Hill are well established and recently other venues such as Intake and Hall Dale quarries in the Matlock area have been added to the list

Routes

1343 trad routes (M...D)
1785 sport routes (3...9a)
6 boulder problems (f7A+...V9)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Stoney West
The small crag of Stoney West is a continuation of the main Stoney crag on the...
55
-^^-
Trad and Sport
No sun
Up and Down

10 mins

Sheltered
Stoney
Stoney is a crag which most climbers will encounter at some stage in their...
186
-^^^
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

6 mins

Sheltered
Horseshoe
Horseshoe Quarry was originally known as Furness Quarry; it was nicknamed...
280
^^^-
Sport
Early morning sun
Level

8 mins

Sheltered
Smalldale
Smalldale Quarry is a decent little venue with a couple of good walls developed...
51
_-^-
Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

 
Harpur Hill
The quarried plateau of Harpur Hill is clearly visible on the hill overlooking...
352
-^^^
Sport
Early morning sun
Uphill

8 mins

 
Lovers' Leap
An esoteric crag with 10 sporty routes in a very secluded setting, have no...
10
_---
Sport
Early morning sun
Roadside

0 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Beerhouse Buttress
This is another of those Peak venues which was ignored by earlier generations...
18
_-^-
Sport
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Sheltered
Staden Quarry
Staden Quarry is a bit of an anomaly, that rarest of beasts, a Peak limestone...
60
_-^^
Trad and Sport
Early morning sun
Uphill

1 min

Seepage
Sheltered
Chee Dale Upper
The upper area of Chee Dale contains many fine buttresses lining the sides of...
379
-^^^
Trad and Sport
Early morning sun
Up and Down

20 mins

 
Chee Dale Lower
The lower section of Chee Dale consists of the section where the walls narrow...
170
_^^^
Trad and Sport
Early morning sun
Up and Down

18 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Blackwell Dale
Blackwell Dale is the small unspectacular dale leading up from Miller's Dale...
10
__-^
Sport
Sun and shade
Roadside

0 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Raven Tor
Raven Tor is the most famous Tor in the Peak, even the French have heard of...
80
__-^
Sport
Sun and shade
Roadside

0 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Water-cum-Jolly
The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller's Dale, into...
226
-^^^
Trad and Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

20 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Ravensdale
A fine tall west-facing buttress that rises above the attractive wooded valley...
40
-^^-
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

 
Aldery Cliff
Aldery Cliff is a secluded and slabby crag that offers a decent set of clean...
26
-^-_
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Sheltered
Taddington
22
_-^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Rheinstor
A lovely little cliff in a sylvan and sunny setting by the River Bradford, just...
15
----
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

2 mins

Sheltered
Wolfscote Dale
Tucked away in an idyllic setting in Wolfscote Dale in the southern Peak are a...
17
----
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

 
Manifold Valley
The imposing orifice of Thor's Cave overlooks the upper Manifold Valley and is...
22
---^
Trad and Sport
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Beeston Tor
37
-^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

12 mins

Sheltered
Dovedale
The north-south gash of Dovedale has a fine set of climbs on the various bits...
126
-^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

35 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Turkey Dip Rocks
A hidden and secluded crag, with a small selection of hard and harder routes....
11
_-_-
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Masson Lees
75
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

10 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Pic Tor
13
_---
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
Lorry Park Quarry
22
__-^
Trad and Sport
Sun and shade
Level

2 mins

Sheltered
High Tor
High Tor is certainly the finest limestone crag in the Peak and is up there...
87
-^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

10 mins

 
Long Tor Quarry
A steep and shady wall hidden just metres from the busy A6, a short distance...
18
__-^
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
Wildcat
Wildcat has long been a popular crag due to its accessibility, sunny situation...
41
-^--
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

Sheltered
Willersley
55
_^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
Restricted Access
Colehill Quarry
Colehill Quarry is one of many holes in the ground that pepper the...
33
_^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

2 mins

Sheltered
Restricted Access
Harborough Rocks
Harborough is a popular cliff tucked away in the southern Peak and made from...
50
^^_-
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Brassington
45
^^__
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

10 mins

 
Hipley Hill
A minor south Peak cliff that sees very little attention. The addition of a...
5
_---
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

2 mins

Sheltered
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For Peak Limestone

    Got it Wrong (Stoney West)
    "Changed from 6a to 5c, 0% of 1 vote for 5c" 26/Jun

    Zebedee (Harpur Hill)
    "Good route named "Running for Cover" on Gary's site and worth F6a (but..." 26/May

    Black Grub (Beeston Tor)
    "Changed from E3 5b *** to E3 5c ***, 93% of 13 votes for 5c" 21/May

    Pygmies Walk Tall (Stoney)
    "I agree with Simon. This is a really good route that has a lot of varied and com..." 24/Apr

    The Exterminator (Raven Tor)
    "Decided to take a look at this less popular route, some good moves if the line i..." 22/Apr

    Mind Blind (Stoney)
    "Changed from E5 6b to E6 6b, no votes" 21/Apr

    Via Vita (Ravensdale)
    "Surprisingly good route! Wild positions and a thuggy crux (not technical), on re..." 10/Sep

    Windhover (Stoney)
    "The crucial block at the start - providing an undercut then a foot hold as you d..." 29/Aug

    The Execution of Dysphasia (Colehill Quarry)
    "Good climbing after the first bolt." 27/Aug

    Black Flip (Dovedale)
    "FFA Correction: John Fleming and Jim Shackleton made the first free ascent ca 19..." 05/Aug

    God (Willersley)
    "Great route. Pumpy as hell though. Great protection and never too serious but ke..." 03/Aug

    Last Testament (Willersley)
    "Given a good clean last week. A Willersley favourite now back on the menu...." 21/Jul

    Pupilla (Wildcat)
    "Fantastic climbing over the bulging wall which is easier than it looks. Great ro..." 16/Jul

    Sirplum (Chee Dale Upper)
    "First pitch very polished and overgrown deserves 5b. Second pitch monster jugs b..." 10/Jul top50

    What the Hell? (Stoney)
    "This is a really good route - even the lower wall is okay - but it isn't 4b. I'd..." 26/May

    Of Youth (Chee Dale Lower)
    "Not particularly low in the grade - it's solid 5c for from the tree up to the to..." 18/May

    Memories (High Tor)
    "Perhaps the best route of its grade on Peak Limestone?" 05/May

    Who Flung Dung (Intake Quarry)
    "Could be hard 6c/6c+ now." 21/Apr

    McPlumb Wall (Wildcat)
    "A worthwhile climb despite an unwelcoming approach and an unhealthy finish. The ..." 31/Mar

    Men at Work (Horseshoe)
    "Great entry level multi pitch climb. It was the first multipitch that myself an..." 26/Feb

    It's A Steal (Slaley Brook)
    "PS - don't miss the second bolt hidden behind some grass!" 10/Oct

    Sag Ponir (Horseshoe)
    "Surprisingly enjoyable!" 01/Oct

    Masson Impossible (Masson Lees)
    "Once you've precariously clipped the first bolt, the next couple of moves are 6c..." 11/Sep

    Blade Runner (Horseshoe)
    "This has been rebolted for a while now - six bolts. Still feels pretty thin hig..." 09/Sep

    Almost There (Horseshoe)
    "What should be an enjoyable easy route is spoiled by some poor bolt placements a..." 05/Sep

    The Seven Deadly Sins (Harpur Hill)
    "The line and description has changed with the recent update but the actual lines..." 05/Sep

    Yours Truly (Cawdor Quarry)
    "Some nice moves - but the rock feels worryingly loose in places. Spaced bolts, s..." 04/Sep

    Central Wall (Beeston Tor)
    "8 years on from the last couple of comments, I can report that the route is stil..." 04/Sep

    Lord of the Dance (Beeston Tor)
    "Well worthwhile. Pitch 1 climbed from the path is more like 30m and belays at ..." 03/Sep

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