Peak Limestone

Scattered tors, towers and edges, often hidden in deep wooded dales, the limestone cliffs have both trad and sport climbing on cliffs that are taller than is the norm for gritstone. The fine grained rock tends to polish relatively easy so the most popular climbs have become harder over the years. High Tor is doubtless the areas premier crag though Wildcat, Stoney Middleton, the Manifold valley and Cheedale have plenty to delight the climber. Limestone has been quarried for centuries and the whole area is peppered with abandoned holes in the ground. In recent years many of these have been developed to provide sport climbs across the grade spectrum, Horseshoe and Harpur Hill are well established and recently other venues such as Intake and Hall Dale quarries in the Matlock area have been added to the list

Routes

1330 trad routes (M...A2)
1648 sport routes (3...9a)
6 boulder problems (V3 6A...V9 7C)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Stoney Middleton
Stoney, as it is more popularly known, is a crag which most climbers will...
158
-^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

8 mins

 
Horseshoe Quarry
Horseshoe Quarry is now the most extensive sport climbing area in the Peak with...
280
^^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

8 mins

Sheltered
Peter Dale
It comes as something of a surprise to discover that the cliffs in Peter Dale...
25
-^--
Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
Level

10 mins

Sheltered
Harpur Hill
Clearly visible from large areas of the central peak is the quarried plateau of...
323
-^^-
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

8 mins

 
Lovers' Leap
An esoteric crag with 10 sporty routes in a very secluded setting, have no...
10
_---
Sport
No sun
Roadside

0 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Deep Dale
This selcuded and peaceful dale contains four small buttresses at various...
86
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

15 mins

Abseil
Seepage
Sheltered
Staden Quarry
Staden is the Peak quarry that manages to break the well-known golden rule of...
61
_-^^
Trad and Sport
No sun
Uphill

1 min

Seepage
Sheltered
Beerhouse Buttress
This is another of those peak venues which was probably dismissed by earlier...
18
_-^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

Sheltered
Smalldale
The location of Smalldale Quarry leaves something to be desired, especially...
52
_-^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

 
Chee Dale Upper
The area Chee Dale Upper covers all the Chee Dale crags that would usually be...
472
-^^^
Trad and Sport
Evening sun
Up and Down

20 mins

 
Chee Dale Lower
Chee Dale Lower refers to the crags in Chee Dale which are generally approach...
214
_^^^
Trad and Sport
No sun
Up and Down

18 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Blackwell Dale
A short steep crag also known as Beginner's Wall.
12
__-^
Sport
Evening sun
Roadside

0 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Raven Tor
The most famous Tor in the Peak, even the French have heard of this one. The...
73
__-^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Roadside

0 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Water-cum-Jolly
The River Wye continues from Chee Dale to cut another less-imposing dale...
260
-^^^
Trad and Sport
Evening sun
Up and Down

20 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Ravensdale
Looking west out over the attractive wooded valley of Cressbrook Dale,...
42
-^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

 
Taddington
Taddington, or Crag 'X' as it was generally known while being developed, is a...
22
_-^-
Sport
No sun
Uphill

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Rheinstor
A lovely little cliff set in a peaceful sunny setting, by the River Bradford,...
15
----
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

2 mins

Sheltered
Aldery Cliff
A pleasant slabby crag, east facing and well sheltered. The base can be a bit...
46
-^-_
Trad
Morning sun
Roadside

0 mins

Sheltered
Wolfscote Dale
Tucked away in Wolfscote Dale in the Southern Peak are a couple of rocky towers...
15
----
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

 
Manifold Valley
The imposing orifice of Thor's Cave overlooks the upper Manifold Valley and is...
21
---^
Trad and Sport
No sun
Level

15 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Beeston Tor
One of the jewels of Peak limestone, a fine imposing south-facing wall with a...
37
-^^^
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

12 mins

Sheltered
Dovedale
The meandering and deeply-incised valley of the River Dove is one of the most...
125
-^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

35 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Brassington
The climbing area of Brassington (also known as Rainster Rocks) is a diminutive...
45
^^__
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

 
Hipley Hill
A minor south Peak cliff that sees very little attention. The addition of a...
4
_---
Trad
No sun
Level

2 mins

Sheltered
Intake Quarry
Intake Quarry is now banned.
24
_-^-
Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
Slaley Brook
This huge quarry is hidden just off the Cromford to Buxton road, in the depths...
39
_-^-
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

5 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Restricted Access
Halldale Quarry
Halldale Quarry is a huge open hole in the ground which, until recently, was...
17
_-^-
Sport
Evening sun
Level

10 mins

Sheltered
Cawdor Quarry
This long-abandoned quarry is clearly visible, rising above the trees behind...
65
-^^-
Sport
No sun
Downhill

4 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Lorry Park Quarry
This neglected quarry to the south of Matlock features a fine vertical wall of...
21
__-^
Trad and Sport
Early morning sun
Level

2 mins

Sheltered
Turkey Dip Rocks
A hidden and secluded crag, with a small selection of hard and harder routes....
11
_-_-
Sport
No sun
Level

10 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Masson Lees
The Peak District is riddled with old quarries, many provide climbers with...
75
-^^^
Sport
No sun
Up and Down

10 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Pic Tor
A small compact sheet of rock within the confines of Matlock. Only a few...
13
_---
Trad
No sun
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
High Tor
High Tor can justifiably claim to be the finest limestone crag in the Peak....
106
-^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

 
Long Tor Quarry
A steep and shady wall hidden just metres from the busy A6, a short distance...
18
__-^
Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
Wildcat
This oft underrated crag contains a good concentration of VS and HVS limestone...
40
-^--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Sheltered
Willersley
On first acquaintance this north-facing crag on the banks of the river Derwent...
55
_^^^
Trad
No sun
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
Restricted Access
Colehill Quarry
Colehill Quarry is one of many holes in the ground that pepper the...
33
_^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

2 mins

Sheltered
Restricted Access
Harborough Rocks
The most popular of a pair of dolomitic limestone outcrops tucked away in the...
51
^^_-
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

10 mins

 
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For Peak Limestone

    Last Testament (Willersley)
    "Given a good clean last week. A Willersley favourite now back on the menu...." 21/Jul

    Pupilla (Wildcat)
    "Fantastic climbing over the bulging wall which is easier than it looks. Great ro..." 16/Jul

    Sirplum (Chee Dale Upper)
    "First pitch very polished and overgrown deserves 5b. Second pitch monster jugs b..." 10/Jul top50

    What the Hell? (Stoney Middleton)
    "This is a really good route - even the lower wall is okay - but it isn't 4b. I'd..." 26/May

    Of Youth (Chee Dale Lower)
    "Not particularly low in the grade - it's solid 5c for from the tree up to the to..." 18/May

    Memories (High Tor)
    "Perhaps the best route of its grade on Peak Limestone?" 05/May

    Who Flung Dung (Intake Quarry)
    "Could be hard 6c/6c+ now." 21/Apr

    McPlumb Wall (Wildcat)
    "A worthwhile climb despite an unwelcoming approach and an unhealthy finish. The ..." 31/Mar

    Men at Work (Horseshoe Quarry)
    "Great entry level multi pitch climb. It was the first multipitch that myself an..." 26/Feb

    It's A Steal (Slaley Brook)
    "PS - don't miss the second bolt hidden behind some grass!" 10/Oct

    Sag Ponir (Horseshoe Quarry)
    "Surprisingly enjoyable!" 01/Oct

    Masson Impossible (Masson Lees)
    "Once you've precariously clipped the first bolt, the next couple of moves are 6c..." 11/Sep

    Blade Runner (Horseshoe Quarry)
    "This has been rebolted for a while now - six bolts. Still feels pretty thin hig..." 09/Sep

    Almost There (Horseshoe Quarry)
    "What should be an enjoyable easy route is spoiled by some poor bolt placements a..." 05/Sep

    The Seven Deadly Sins (Harpur Hill)
    "The line and description has changed with the recent update but the actual lines..." 05/Sep

    Yours Truly (Cawdor Quarry)
    "Some nice moves - but the rock feels worryingly loose in places. Spaced bolts, s..." 04/Sep

    Central Wall (Beeston Tor)
    "8 years on from the last couple of comments, I can report that the route is stil..." 04/Sep

    Lord of the Dance (Beeston Tor)
    "Well worthwhile. Pitch 1 climbed from the path is more like 30m and belays at ..." 03/Sep

    God is Good (Halldale Quarry)
    "A route of 2 halves: the 1st half hard, the 2nd half not so hard. At the overlap..." 23/Aug

    Who Sat on my Satsuma? (Masson Lees)
    "All 3 routes on this wall in good condition as of yesterday and well worth doin..." 22/Aug

    Supplementary Questions (Horseshoe Quarry)
    "A new route starts up this: Two Flat Whites 19m 6a+ Start up Supplementary Qu..." 12/Aug

    Joint Effort (Staden Quarry)
    "Unquestionably 5b!" 11/Aug top50

    White Dove (Horseshoe Quarry)
    "E1 5b is about right: it's a good route." 23/Jul

    Flycatcher (Chee Dale Lower)
    "In the days when it had the hold/thread it was E1 5b. It certainly isn't now!" 22/Jul

    A Trip on the Dark Side (Harpur Hill)
    "The lower wall has very good climbing but moving left and leaving the 2nd bolt g..." 21/Jul

    Original Route (High Tor)
    "Six years on, I wonder how much that 20kg block is worth now Jon?" 20/Jul top50

    Kakaho (Chee Dale Upper)
    "Not easy to determine the line of this based on the 2004 guide. The features are..." 18/Jul

    Excavator (Willersley)
    "This route should lose its 'loose' icon - it was a bit dirty, but not unstable. ..." 17/Jul

    Gangue Grooves (Willersley)
    "Not sure about the "continuous 5a-ish climbing the whole way" (and cer..." 15/Jul top50

    Search for comments or
    get the RSS feed RSS feed