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PORTLAND

Portland is justifiably famous for the wealth of quality sport climbing available on its lofty white cliffs. The West Coast in particular has now become one of the UK's best venues for well-bolted sport routes across the grades. The East Coast offers bouldering and deep water soloing into the mix as well as serving up its own excellent set of sport routes including many in the easier grades.
This database contains all the routes from the 2005 Dorset Rockfax. It is up to date to June 2005 and the grades, stars and page references are all synchronised with that edition of the book.

ROUTES
32 trad routes (VS...E7)
859 sport routes (2...8b)
162 boulder problems (V0-...V10)
99 dws routes (HS...V2)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents

Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Blacknor North
Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with...
50
-^^^
sport afternoon sun up+down
10 mins
windy 54
Blacknor Central
Blacknor Central faces south east and is a good-morning-sun venue. It suffers...
56
--^^
sport sun from mid-morning up+down
15 mins
windy 58
Blacknor South
Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful...
65
^^^-
sport afternoon sun up+down
12 mins
windy 64
Blacknor Far South
Blacknor Far South area has received a complete overhaul and is now one of the...
47
--^^
sport afternoon sun downhill
14 mins
windy 70
Battleship Edge
This was the first area to be retro-bolted and it has become the most popular...
53
_-^^
sport afternoon sun downhill
10 mins
windy 78
Battleship Back Cliff
The Back Cliff has some superb long pitches with fingery flints and...
49
--^^
sport afternoon sun downhill
15 mins
windy 82
Wallsend North
Wallsend is the largest and arguably best cliff on Portland. Wallsend North...
87
_-^^
sport afternoon sun downhill
10 mins
windy 89
Wallsend South
Some of the biggest and best routes on Portland are situated on the huge walls...
99
_-^^
sport afternoon sun up+down
20 mins
windy 98
Coastguard North
Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard...
43
_-^^
sport afternoon sun up+down
8 mins
seepagewindy 108
Coastguard South
Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with...
69
_-^^
sport afternoon sun up+down
20 mins
tidalwindy 112
White Hole
This area of relatively short cliffs near Portland Bill has a set of good...
55
_-^^
dws morning sun level
5 mins
abseiltidalwindy 122
Lighthouse Area
On the east coast of the southern tip of the Isle are four small areas nestling...
51
-^^^
boulder morning sun level
5 mins
tidalwindy 131
Cave Hole
Cave Hole is a long low line of super-steep sea cliffs that are tucked away on...
74
_^^^
dws morning sun level
15 mins
tidalwindy 135
Beeston Cliff
Beeston Cliff is a fine series of interesting and secluded bays with some...
55
--^^
sport morning sun level
20 mins
abseiltidalwindy 142
Cheyne Wears Area
The section of coast near Southwell and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a...
122
^^^^
boulder morning sun downhill
3 mins
  148
The Cuttings
The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking...
177
^^^^
boulder lots of sun! up+down
8 mins
  160
 What do these symbols mean?
Averages, based on the largest buttress at each crag
Latest Comments
PORTLAND
Another Notch in the Gun (The Cuttings)
"utter pile of complete chossey crap!!! super loose at the bottom! super polished..." 03/Feb

Unstuck on You (Flowstone Shuffle) (Blacknor Central)
"Deserves at least a star. Thought the line was actually independent from Actual..." 01/Feb

Hall of Mirrors (The Cuttings)
"awesome line! the jug from under the roof has gone now so the rest is not quite ..." 30/Jan top50

Pregnant Pause (Blacknor Central)
"Excellent, thanks for the info. I thought it felt more like 6b than 6a+. Must go..." 27/Dec top50

The Accelerator (Cheyne Wears Area)
"this route has never ever seen 7a, more like 6b" 05/Dec

Pregnant Pause (Blacknor Central)
"Paws for Thought (6b) done May 2007 by Gary Gibson" 26/Nov top50

Pregnant Pause (Blacknor Central)
"Hi John, I was in portland in august and I climbed PP then and had to question w..." 25/Nov top50

Southern Soul (The Cuttings)
"i did a direct line up this, from two crimps by the big hole.. up to the lip and..." 25/Oct

Screw the Roses, Send me the Thorns (Blacknor Central)
"Run out easy sections, mar excellent well-protected climbing on the hard bits. M..." 19/Oct

Ausfahrt (Blacknor Central)
"Not difficult, but potentially, dangeour start (nothing new, in Portland), then,..." 18/Oct

Opus (The Cuttings)
"There is currently a wasps nest in the crack so climb with caution." 17/Oct

The Racing Line (Battleship Back Cliff)
"we meet again paul! yer zinc should be first its MEGA!!!!!!" 15/Oct

The Racing Line (Battleship Back Cliff)
"I shall have a play once Z.O.M has been successfully despatched..." 14/Oct

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