PORTLAND

Portland is justifiably famous for the wealth of quality sport climbing available on its lofty white cliffs. The West Coast in particular has now become one of the UK's best venues for well-bolted sport routes across the grades. The East Coast offers bouldering and deep water soloing into the mix as well as serving up its own excellent set of sport routes including many in the easier grades.
This database contains all the routes from the 2005 Dorset Rockfax. It is up to date to June 2005 and the grades, stars and page references are all synchronised with that edition of the book.

Routes

58 trad routes (S...E7)
1231 sport routes (2...8b)
160 boulder problems (V0-...V10)
52 dws routes (HVS...V2)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade		 Approach walk Other Page
Blacknor North
Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with...		 67
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

15 mins
Windy
 62
Blacknor Central
Blacknor Central faces south east and is a good-morning-sun venue. It suffers...		 74
--^^
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and Down

20 mins
Windy
 75
Blacknor South
Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful...		 53
-^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

12 mins
Windy
 88
Blacknor Beach
The first climbable sections of cliff-line that stretch virtually unbroken...		 30
^--_
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

15 mins
Tidal
Windy
 96
Blacknor Far South
Blacknor Far South area has received a complete overhaul and is now one of the...		 55
--^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins
Windy
 103
Battleship Edge
This was the first area to be retro-bolted and it has become the most popular...		 65
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins
Windy
 79
Battleship Back Cliff
The Back Cliff has some superb long pitches with fingery flints and...		 80
^^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

11 mins
Windy
 123
Wallsend North
Wallsend is the largest and arguably best cliff on Portland. Wallsend North...		 127
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins
Windy
 137
Wallsend South
Some of the biggest and best routes on Portland are situated on the huge walls...		 115
--^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

15 mins
Tidal
Windy
 150
Coastguard North
Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard...		 43
_-^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

13 mins
Windy
 168
Coastguard South
Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with...		 69
_-^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

20 mins
Tidal
Windy
 172
White Hole
This area of relatively short cliffs near Portland Bill has a set of good...		 58
--^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Level

5 mins
Windy
 124
Lighthouse Area
On the east coast of the southern tip of the Isle are four small areas nestling...		 135
-^^^
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins
Tidal
Windy
 80
Beeston Cliff
Beeston Cliff is a fine series of interesting and secluded bays with some...		 57
--^^
Sport
Morning sun
Level

15 mins
Abseil
Windy
 -
Godnor
The adjoining sections of Godnor South and North are an isolated section of...		 44
-^^-
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

10 mins

   -
Neddyfields
A popular and sheltered crag with some decent routes and a host of boulder...		 75
-^^-
Boulder
Morning sun
Downhill

3 mins

   148
Cheyne Cliff
The main section is a superb wall, covered in fantastic flowstone and orange...		 34
--^^
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

10 mins

   154
Dungecroft Quarry
Dungecroft Quarry is a very long, but short escarpment composed of, for the...		 43
^^^-
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

3 mins

   216
Lost Valley
A hidden ravine with a good selection of sheltered sport routes that are worth...		 41
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

3 mins

   -
The Cuttings
The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking...		 232
^^^^
Boulder
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

8 mins

   228
Nicodemus Knob
Set well away from the main climbing areas on Portland is this curious feature...		 4
_--_
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

5 mins
Windy
 245

  • Latest Comments

    For PORTLAND

    Mystical Gill (Blacknor Beach)
    "A straight forward pull up onto the slab, then simply walk up on a nice grippy s..." 07/May

    The Mouth Waters (The Cuttings)
    "Blind moves (as described above) in damp conditions last week - no onsight but s..." 29/Apr

    Infernal Din (The Cuttings)
    "The wording seems to have got lost in the latest edition but IMHO the last guide..." 29/Apr

    Love in the Mist (Blacknor South)
    "Very pleasant route that finishes all too quickly. 6a *" 02/Apr

    Spare the Fern (Blacknor Far South)
    "Very high first clip with a tough unpleasant start; highly suggest pre-clipping ..." 31/Mar

    To Wish the Impossible (Blacknor South)
    "Super climbing, crisp holds and a bit thuggy near the top. Easier than some Batt..." 05/Feb top50

    Under Duress (The Cuttings)
    "The first of the two crimps on the bulge, (the crystal one,) has broken off. It'..." 31/Dec

    Through the Barricades (Blacknor Central)
    "Done a few of the routes hereabouts and this ranks amongst them as definitely 7a..." 21/Oct

    Last Rose of Summer (Blacknor Central)
    "I think I seconded this on the fa. One of Pete's best imho..." 10/Sep

    Poop Scoop (Wallsend North)
    "There is a large loose block just above and left of the first bolt, beware!!" 09/Sep

    That Honeycomb Centre (Blacknor Central)
    "More solid and pumpy that it looks. Really good addition to the sector. 1.5 ..." 03/Sep

    Once Upon a Time in The West (Wallsend South)
    "A large block has come out at the start, taking the first bolt with it." 29/Jul

    The Racing Line (Battleship Back Cliff)
    "Hard crux but easier and steady climbing either side. Overall difficulty is the ..." 24/Jun

    Suburban Dave (Blacknor Beach)
    "Now missing a hold as I pulled off a head-sized piece of rock near the start..." 19/Jun

    Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (Wallsend South)
    "Now Fully Bolted." 05/Jun

    Pouch of Douglas (Cheyne Cliff)
    "There is a direct abseil approach from Dungecroft Quarry to this set of four rou..." 09/Mar

    Ecosystem (Neddyfields)
    "Clean and pleasant jug hauling with no move as hard as the crux of Time of The M..." 23/Jan

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