Portland is justifiably famous for the wealth of quality sport climbing available on its lofty white cliffs. The West Coast in particular has now become one of the UK's best venues for well-bolted sport routes across the grades. The East Coast offers bouldering and deep water soloing into the mix as well as serving up its own excellent set of sport routes including many in the easier grades.
This database contains all the routes from the 2005 Dorset Rockfax. It is up to date to June 2005 and the grades, stars and page references are all synchronised with that edition of the book.
Routes
30 trad routes (S...E7)
1216 sport routes (2...8b)
160 boulder problems (V0-...V10)
104 dws routes (HS...V2)
50 of the Best Routes 
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
| Crag (click for details) | No. of Routes | Grade Range | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page | ||||
| Blacknor North Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with... |
67 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Up and Down 15 mins |
Windy |
62 | ||||
| Blacknor Central Blacknor Central faces south east and is a good-morning-sun venue. It suffers... |
74 |
| Sport |
Sun from mid-morning |
Up and Down 20 mins |
Windy |
75 | ||||
| Blacknor South Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful... |
53 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 12 mins |
Windy |
88 | ||||
| Blacknor Beach The first climbable sections of cliff-line that stretch virtually unbroken... |
30 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 15 mins |
Tidal Windy |
71 | ||||
| Blacknor Far South Blacknor Far South area has received a complete overhaul and is now one of the... |
55 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 10 mins |
Windy |
103 | ||||
| Battleship Edge This was the first area to be retro-bolted and it has become the most popular... |
65 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 10 mins |
Windy |
79 | ||||
| Battleship Back Cliff The Back Cliff has some superb long pitches with fingery flints and... |
80 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 11 mins |
Windy |
123 | ||||
| Wallsend North Wallsend is the largest and arguably best cliff on Portland. Wallsend North... |
128 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 10 mins |
Windy |
137 | ||||
| Wallsend South Some of the biggest and best routes on Portland are situated on the huge walls... |
115 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 15 mins |
Tidal Windy |
150 | ||||
| Coastguard North Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard... |
43 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Up and Down 13 mins |
Windy |
108 | ||||
| Coastguard South Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with... |
69 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Up and Down 20 mins |
Tidal Windy |
172 | ||||
| White Hole This area of relatively short cliffs near Portland Bill has a set of good... |
58 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Level 5 mins |
Windy |
124 | ||||
| Lighthouse Area On the east coast of the southern tip of the Isle are four small areas nestling... |
143 |
| DWS |
Morning sun |
Level 10 mins |
Tidal Windy |
131 | ||||
| Beeston Cliff Beeston Cliff is a fine series of interesting and secluded bays with some... |
57 |
| Sport |
Morning sun |
Level 15 mins |
Abseil Windy |
- | ||||
| Godnor The adjoining sections of Godnor South and North are an isolated section of... |
44 |
| Sport |
Morning sun |
Downhill 10 mins |
- | |||||
| Neddyfields A popular and sheltered crag with some decent routes and a host of boulder... |
75 |
| Boulder |
Morning sun |
Downhill 3 mins |
148 | |||||
| Cheyne Cliff The main section is a superb wall, covered in fantastic flowstone and orange... |
34 |
| Sport |
Morning sun |
Downhill 10 mins |
154 | |||||
| Dungecroft Quarry Dungecroft Quarry is a very long, but short escarpment composed of, for the... |
43 |
| Sport |
Morning sun |
Downhill 3 mins |
216 | |||||
| Lost Valley A hidden ravine with a good selection of sheltered sport routes that are worth... |
41 |
| Sport |
Sun and shade |
Downhill 3 mins |
- | |||||
| The Cuttings The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking... |
232 |
| Boulder |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 8 mins |
228 | |||||
| Nicodemus Knob Set well away from the main climbing areas on Portland is this curious feature... |
4 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Downhill 5 mins |
Windy |
245 |
