Portland

Portland is justifiably famous for the wealth of quality sport climbing available on its lofty white cliffs. The West Coast in particular has now become one of the UK's best venues for well-bolted sport routes across the grades. The East Coast offers bouldering and deep water soloing into the mix as well as serving up its own excellent set of sport routes including many in the easier grades.
This database contains all the routes from the 2005 Dorset Rockfax. It is up to date to June 2005 and the grades, stars and page references are all synchronised with that edition of the book.

Routes

58 trad routes (S...E7)
1231 sport routes (2...8b)
160 boulder problems (V0- 4b...V10 7C+)
52 dws routes (HVS...V2 5c)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Blacknor North
Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with...
67
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

15 mins

 
Blacknor Central
Blacknor Central faces south east and is a good-morning-sun venue. It suffers...
74
--^^
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and Down

20 mins

 
Blacknor South
Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful...
53
-^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

12 mins

 
Blacknor Beach
The first climbable sections of cliff-line that stretch virtually unbroken...
30
^--_
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
Blacknor Far South
Blacknor Far South area has received a complete overhaul and is now one of the...
55
--^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins

 
Battleship Edge
This was the first area to be retro-bolted and it has become the most popular...
65
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins

 
Battleship Back Cliff
The Back Cliff has some superb long pitches with fingery flints and...
80
^^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

11 mins

 
Wallsend North
Wallsend is the largest and arguably best cliff on Portland. Wallsend North...
127
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins

 
Wallsend South
Some of the biggest and best routes on Portland are situated on the huge walls...
115
--^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
Coastguard North
Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard...
43
_-^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

13 mins

 
Coastguard South
Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with...
69
_-^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

20 mins

Tidal
White Hole
This area of relatively short cliffs near Portland Bill has a set of good...
58
--^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Level

5 mins

 
Lighthouse Area
On the east coast of the southern tip of the Isle are four small areas nestling...
135
-^^^
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

Tidal
Beeston Cliff
Beeston Cliff is a fine series of interesting and secluded bays with some...
57
--^^
Sport
Morning sun
Level

15 mins

Abseil
Godnor
The adjoining sections of Godnor South and North are an isolated section of...
44
-^^-
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

10 mins

Sheltered
Neddyfields
A popular and sheltered crag with some decent routes and a host of boulder...
75
-^^^
Boulder
Morning sun
Downhill

3 mins

Sheltered
Cheyne Cliff
The main section is a superb wall, covered in fantastic flowstone and orange...
34
--^^
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

10 mins

Sheltered
Dungecroft Quarry
Dungecroft Quarry is a very long, but short escarpment composed of, for the...
43
^^^-
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

3 mins

Sheltered
Lost Valley
A hidden ravine with a good selection of sheltered sport routes that are worth...
41
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

3 mins

Sheltered
The Cuttings
The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking...
232
^^^^
Boulder
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

8 mins

Sheltered
Nicodemus Knob
Set well away from the main climbing areas on Portland is this curious feature...
4
_--_
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

5 mins

 
  • Latest Comments

    For Portland

    Infernal Din (The Cuttings)
    "At last! What an effort! For "shorties" like me (5' 9") the third..." 19/Aug

    Levitation by Proxy (The Cuttings)
    "A one move wonder, but at least its an interesting one!" 28/May

    Vertical Thrill (Blacknor Beach)
    "The belay in the large block at the top have shifted significantly in the last f..." 22/Aug

    The Tea-Cake Path (Blacknor North)
    "Flowstone veneer feels hollow in places, do the route before it falls down! Good..." 18/Aug

    England's Dreaming (Blacknor North)
    "Had a look at this yesterday- the entire top section of tufa is detached- climb ..." 25/Jul top50

    Pining for Glossop (Blacknor South)
    "Much preferred this to sacred angel: pleasantly sustained and interesting moves...." 01/Jul

    Wax on Wheels (Blacknor Far South)
    "Wonder if this has lost holds at the break? There is some rock scarring there. T..." 01/Jul

    Wiggi and Mopoke's Excellent New Hilti (Battleship Back Cliff)
    "26/5/2013 Lower section is covered in dried mud. Best avoided." 28/May

    Rusty Chubblock Seeks Oil of Lubrication (The Cuttings)
    "Broke the crux crimp. Sorry. It only crumbled a tiny bit and for a hold on any o..." 28/May

    Mystical Gill (Blacknor Beach)
    "A straight forward pull up onto the slab, then simply walk up on a nice grippy s..." 07/May

    The Mouth Waters (The Cuttings)
    "Blind moves (as described above) in damp conditions last week - no onsight but s..." 29/Apr

    Infernal Din (The Cuttings)
    "The wording seems to have got lost in the latest edition but IMHO the last guide..." 29/Apr

    Love in the Mist (Blacknor South)
    "Very pleasant route that finishes all too quickly. 6a *" 02/Apr

    Spare the Fern (Blacknor Far South)
    "Very high first clip with a tough unpleasant start; highly suggest pre-clipping ..." 31/Mar

    To Wish the Impossible (Blacknor South)
    "Super climbing, crisp holds and a bit thuggy near the top. Easier than some Batt..." 05/Feb top50

    Under Duress (The Cuttings)
    "The first of the two crimps on the bulge, (the crystal one,) has broken off. It'..." 31/Dec

    Through the Barricades (Blacknor Central)
    "Done a few of the routes hereabouts and this ranks amongst them as definitely 7a..." 21/Oct

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