Portland is justifiably famous for the wealth of quality sport climbing available on its lofty white cliffs. The West Coast in particular has now become one of the UK's best venues for well-bolted sport routes across the grades. The East Coast offers bouldering and deep water soloing into the mix as well as serving up its own excellent set of sport routes including many in the easier grades.
This database contains all the routes from the 2005 Dorset Rockfax. It is up to date to June 2005 and the grades, stars and page references are all synchronised with that edition of the book.

ROUTES
32 trad routes (VS...E7)
859 sport routes (2...8b)
162 boulder problems (V0-...V10)
99 dws routes (HS...V2)
50 of the Best Routes
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents

Crag (click for details)	No. of Routes	Grade Range	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Blacknor North Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with...	50				10 mins		54
Blacknor Central Blacknor Central faces south east and is a good-morning-sun venue. It suffers...	56				15 mins		58
Blacknor South Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful...	65				12 mins		64
Blacknor Far South Blacknor Far South area has received a complete overhaul and is now one of the...	47				14 mins		70
Battleship Edge This was the first area to be retro-bolted and it has become the most popular...	53				10 mins		78
Battleship Back Cliff The Back Cliff has some superb long pitches with fingery flints and...	49				15 mins		82
Wallsend North Wallsend is the largest and arguably best cliff on Portland. Wallsend North...	87				10 mins		89
Wallsend South Some of the biggest and best routes on Portland are situated on the huge walls...	99				20 mins		98
Coastguard North Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard...	43				8 mins		108
Coastguard South Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with...	69				20 mins		112
White Hole This area of relatively short cliffs near Portland Bill has a set of good...	55				5 mins		122
Lighthouse Area On the east coast of the southern tip of the Isle are four small areas nestling...	51				5 mins		131
Cave Hole Cave Hole is a long low line of super-steep sea cliffs that are tucked away on...	74				15 mins		135
Beeston Cliff Beeston Cliff is a fine series of interesting and secluded bays with some...	55				20 mins		142
Cheyne Wears Area The section of coast near Southwell and the large Cheyne Weares car park, has a...	122				3 mins		148
The Cuttings The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking...	177				8 mins		160
			What do these symbols mean? Averages, based on the largest buttress at each crag

Cinema Paradiso (Blacknor North)
"As per 2009, one large fluffy chick and parent in situ yesterday: best avoided f..." 02/Aug

Eight-Bar Blues (Wallsend North)
"I'm not sure how it could possibly be easier for the short, though I didn't thin..." 31/Jul

Winning at Rodeo (Coastguard South)
"This really should be on everyone's tick list, superb, utterly superb, happy day..." 27/Jul

The Secret Garden (Cheyne Wears Area)
"I did a press move, but not a mono! The route is very cruxy but the climbing bef..." 26/Jul

The Devil's Work (Coastguard South)
"Trust me when I say 'this has NOT cleaned up'. Incredibly Muddy flake and dusty..." 25/Jul

The Martyr (Cheyne Wears Area)
"Very pleasant little climb with intricate climbing through the crux." 25/Jul

Another Trojan Horse (Battleship Edge)
"By no means a classic. Very dubious holds at the top. An early mono makes it not..." 21/Jul

H'electric Boogaloo (Coastguard South)
"Good warm-up, like most here, feels a little dusty but doesn't detract from the ..." 12/Jul

Babelicious Redhead (Blacknor Central)
"the route which starts up Babelicious and breaks left after 3 bolts is "ste..." 09/Jul

Gaze of the Gorgon (Blacknor Central)
"This route is currently in a dangerous state. The winter frosts have made the ro..." 08/Jul

Cosa Nostra (Wallsend North)
"Seems to have reverted back to its previous dirty condition. The upper flake/cra..." 05/Jul

Spanner Eyes (Blacknor North)
"Agree that this route is brilliant and under-rated. England's Dreaming has the l..." 30/Jun

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