Dorset

Portland is justifiably famous for the wealth of quality sport climbing available on its lofty white cliffs. The West Coast in particular has now become one of the UK's best venues for well-bolted sport routes across the grades. The East Coast offers bouldering and deep water soloing into the mix as well as serving up its own excellent set of sport routes including many in the easier grades.
Swanage offer unique climbing experiences in both traditional and sport modes of ascent. Much of the climbing is steep and overhanging, especially in the higher grades. Overall the style complements perfectly the more technical routes found on Portland. Indeed, some of the venues, such as Stair Hole and Blacker's Hole, offer incredible roofs of a scale not breached elsewhere in the Country. However not all the climbs are on such rugged terrain and some of the most popular venues are the bolted quarries at Dancing Ledge and Winspit, plus the gentler sectors such as Subluminal and the Cattle Troughs, which offer beginners the chance to break through.
This database contains all the routes from the Dorset Rockfax.

Routes

45 trad routes (VS...E7)
30 sport routes (5c...8a)
8 boulder problems (f5...f7A+)
107 dws routes (HVS...f5+)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Blacknor North
Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on Portland, with...
70
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

15 mins

 
Blacknor Central
Blacknor Central is the least popular of the Blacknor cliffs offering a series...
86
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

12 mins

 
Blacknor South
Blacknor South has some magnificent wall pitches on delicate flowstone, plus a...
53
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

12 mins

 
Blacknor Beach
Below Blacknor South and Central are four popular slabby areas, with a...
28
^--_
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
Blacknor Far South
Blacknor Far South area is now one of the best sections of Portland for...
55
--^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

10 mins

 
Battleship Edge
For most people the Battleship Edge is the starting point for exploring the...
65
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

20 mins

 
Battleship Back Cliff
The Battleship Back Cliff offers some superb stamina pitches with...
80
^^^^
Trad and Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

18 mins

 
Wallsend North
The largest cliff on Portland is the huge arc of Wallsend Cove which has two...
127
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

10 mins

 
Wallsend South
The largest cliff on Portland is the huge arc of Wallsend Cove which has two...
115
--^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
Coastguard North
The Coastguard Cliffs run south towards the Bill of Portland and possess a...
43
_-^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

13 mins

 
Coastguard South
The Coastguard Cliffs run south towards the Bill of Portland and possess a...
68
_-^^
Trad and Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

15 mins

Tidal
White Hole
White Hole is unique to the west coast of Portland, being an area of...
47
--^^
DWS
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Lighthouse Area
This area has now become the haunt of the deep water soloist, however dotted...
22
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Tidal
Cave Hole
Cave Hole is a long low line of super-steep sea cliffs that are tucked away on...
40
_^^^
DWS
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

Tidal
Beeston Cliff
Beeston Cliff is a fine series of interesting and secluded bays with some...
38
--^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

Abseil
Godnor
Godnor South, and its more extensively-developed Far North neighbour, are a...
44
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

10 mins

Sheltered
Neddyfields
The Neddyfields Main Cliff offers a similar line-up of climbing, although the...
48
-^^_
Trad and Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

5 mins

Sheltered
Cheyne Cliff
The biggest crag in the area is Cheyne Cliff, which looks scruffy and unstable...
31
---^
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

10 mins

Sheltered
Dungecroft Quarry
Dungecroft Quarry is a very long, but short escarpment composed of, for the...
43
^^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

3 mins

Sheltered
Lost Valley
The Lost Valley is a sheltered location in a deep inland ravine with a quiet...
41
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

3 mins

Sheltered
The Cuttings
The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag that holds some of...
141
^^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
Lulworth
The Lulworth area lies at the heart of the Jurassic Coast, and is popular with...
115
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

5 mins

Restricted Access
Nicodemus Knob
Set well away from the main climbing areas on Portland is this curious feature...
4
_--_
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

5 mins

Windy
Winspit
Winspit Quarry is a very pleasant and sheltered sport climbers playground with...
78
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

20 mins

Sheltered
Hedbury
The Hedbury and Smokey Hole areas encompass four very different crags to the...
46
--^^
DWS
Sun and shade
Up and Down

30 mins

Sheltered
Hidden Quarry
This delightful area is a recently appraised addition, and, despite an approach...
6
_---
DWS
Morning sun
Up and Down

25 mins

Tidal
Dancing Ledge
Dancing Ledge is one of the most important areas at Swanage for sport climbers....
84
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

25 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Guillemot Ledge
Guillemot Ledge is a large and diverse area that is home to the highest section...
42
_^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and Down

25 mins

Abseil
Cormorant Ledge
Cormorant Ledge is an extensive section of crag with a small number of good low...
4
--__
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and Down

25 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Blackers Hole
Blackers Hole contains some of the greatest challenges available to climbers...
48
_--^
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and Down

45 mins

Tidal
Fisherman's Ledge
The climbing available at Fisherman's Ledge is undoubtedly the most diverse at...
105
--^^
DWS
Sun and shade
Up and Down

40 mins

Abseil
The Promenade
The Promenade is the first of the predominantly sport climbing crags passed on...
102
--^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

30 mins

Abseil
Dry in the Rain
Cattle Troughs
The Cattle Troughs routes are easy to reach and have generally sound rock....
36
-^--
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and Down

25 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Boulder Ruckle
The white and yellow striped walls of the Boulder Ruckle make up the showpiece...
126
-^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and Down

15 mins

Abseil
Subluminal
The western section of Subluminal is a very friendly sea cliff, which has a...
83
^^^-
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and Down

10 mins

Abseil
  • Access Issues for Dorset


  • Latest Comments

    For Dorset

    Helix (Fisherman's Ledge)
    "Changed from D ** to D **, no votes" 07/Jul

    Plaice a Bolt (Winspit)
    "As of 15/06/2015 the 3rd bolt (staple) was loose (the one that protects the move..." 16/Jun

    Superfly Guy (Coastguard North)
    "Lovely route, powerful lower down and delicate higher up. Good line, good positi..." 22/May

    Gorillas in the Mist (Fisherman's Ledge)
    "Thread at start of pocketed traverse replaced 17.5.15 but the one that used to b..." 17/May

    Director's Groove (Boulder Ruckle)
    "This is an ok route, the first pitch crux is hard - I ended up climbing to the r..." 26/Apr

    Think About It (Winspit)
    "Joe Nelson nelson5_uk@yahoo.co.uk The big loose fin is no longer there making ..." 08/Apr

    Road Rage (Cheyne Cliff)
    "I replaced the fixed rope in spring 2014." 08/Sep

    Sanfte Kuss (Blacknor North)
    "mistook this for is vic there- got a big shock - it's desperate!" 01/Sep

    1789 (Wallsend South)
    "The large flake at 5m is disintegrating. Cleaned up as much as I could but some ..." 28/Aug

    Rocket from the Crypt (Cheyne Cliff)
    "See warning about Drowning on Dry Land. Rocket from the Crypt is still there, bu..." 26/Aug

    Snowdrop (Boulder Ruckle)
    "Did this again yesterday. No stake at the top (used a rock belay and the stake ..." 25/Aug

    Infernal Din (The Cuttings)
    "At last! What an effort! For "shorties" like me (5' 9") the third..." 19/Aug

    D Sharp (Fisherman's Ledge)
    "Possibly a large block has come away leaving a lot of calcite rock and a slightl..." 16/Aug

    Warm Love (Winspit)
    "Drifterjoe nelson5_uk@yahoo.co.uk Last bolt before the top is becoming slightl..." 06/Jul

    Levitation by Proxy (The Cuttings)
    "A one move wonder, but at least its an interesting one!" 28/May

    Jo (Boulder Ruckle)
    "I've only just started getting into Swanage HVS and thought that this was a fant..." 25/May

    7a+ Took Me Lung (Winspit)
    "The chain is broken on this beware. Someone had tried to just link it back toget..." 21/Apr

    Isis (Cattle Troughs)
    "**** WARNING **** THIS CLIMB IS WRONGLY DESCRIBED IN BOTH TEXT AND TOPO IN THE 2..." 21/Apr

    The Indirect Route (Subluminal)
    "Solo top roped a number of routes including Paralysis, Stroof and Philatus. This..." 02/Apr

    Vertical Thrill (Blacknor Beach)
    "The belay in the large block at the top have shifted significantly in the last f..." 22/Aug

    The Tea-Cake Path (Blacknor North)
    "Flowstone veneer feels hollow in places, do the route before it falls down! Good..." 18/Aug

    Old Faithful (Boulder Ruckle)
    "Lovely route, and very steep - my second dropped a karabiner from the very last ..." 18/Aug

    Finale Groove (Boulder Ruckle)
    "Just as good as I remember" 25/Jul top50

    England's Dreaming (Blacknor North)
    "Had a look at this yesterday- the entire top section of tufa is detached- climb ..." 25/Jul top50

    Slip Road (Subluminal)
    "I love this climb (been off it more times than on - both lead and second). This ..." 08/Jul

    All the Shakespearoes (Subluminal)
    "Climbed a variation of my own invention. Climb through the lower overhang and a ..." 08/Jul

    Pining for Glossop (Blacknor South)
    "Much preferred this to sacred angel: pleasantly sustained and interesting moves...." 01/Jul

    Wax on Wheels (Blacknor Far South)
    "Wonder if this has lost holds at the break? There is some rock scarring there. T..." 01/Jul

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