Swanage

For climbers the limestone cliffs at Swanage offer unique climbing experiences in both traditional and sport modes of ascent. Much of the climbing is steep and overhanging, especially in the higher grades. Overall the style complements perfectly the more technical routes found on Portland. Indeed, some of the venues, such as Stair Hole and Blacker's Hole, offer incredible roofs of a scale not breached elsewhere in the Country. However not all the climbs are on such rugged terrain and some of the most popular venues are the bolted quarries at Dancing Ledge and Winspit, plus the gentler sectors such as Subluminal and the Cattle Troughs, which offer beginners the chance to break through.
This database contains all the routes from the 2005 Dorset Rockfax. It is up to date to June 2005 and the grades, stars and page references are all synchronised with that edition of the book.

Routes

515 trad routes (D...7c+)
334 sport routes (2...1)
9 boulder problems (V4...V10)
55 dws routes (E1...7c)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Lulworth
A superb set of roof climbs and also another great deep water solo venue....
115
-^^^
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Downhill

10 mins

Restricted Access
250
Winspit
A sport climbing quarry with many great technical wall climbs. Sheltered from...
78
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

20 mins

Sheltered
276
Seacombe
The low walls of Seacombe's eastern reaches are home to some fine little...
9
----
DWS
Lots of sun!
Downhill

20 mins

Tidal
-
Hedbury
The Hedbury and Smokey Hole area encompasses four very different crags to the...
46
--^^
DWS
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

30 mins

Sheltered
289
Hidden Quarry
This delightful area is a recently appraised addition, and, despite an approach...
11
_---
DWS
Morning sun
Up and Down

25 mins

Tidal
-
Dancing Ledge
The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper...
87
-^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

25 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
298
Guillemot Ledge
A huge wall with several routes which are the longest at Swanage. Abseil...
42
_^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

25 mins

Abseil
312
Cormorant Ledge
Cormorant Ledge is a very long section of crag with a handfull of good low and...
4
--__
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

25 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access
235
Blackers Hole
Another varied area with a huge and spectacular cave home to the most...
48
_--^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

45 mins

Tidal
326
Fisherman's Ledge
Fisherman’s Ledge is one of the most popular and important areas at Swanage....
105
--^^
DWS
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

40 mins

Abseil
339
The Promenade
In recent times The Promenade has been re-equipped and a significant number of...
109
--^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

30 mins

Abseil
Dry in the Rain
354
Cattle Troughs
The Cattle Troughs Area is popular with novices and beginners although it is...
36
-^--
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

25 mins

Abseil
Tidal
364
Boulder Ruckle
The white and yellow striped walls of the Boulder Ruckle make up the showpiece...
126
-^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

20 mins

Abseil
374
Subluminal
The low white line of sea cliff ‘under the light’ is the enchanting area of...
92
^^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

10 mins

Abseil
405
Tilly Whim
The diminutive caves of Tilly Whim are short, on good rock, and are mostly set...
5
_---
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

10 mins

Tidal
-
  • Latest Comments

    For Swanage

    The Indirect Route (Subluminal)
    "Solo top roped a number of routes including Paralysis, Stroof and Philatus. This..." 02/Apr

    Old Faithful (Boulder Ruckle)
    "Lovely route, and very steep - my second dropped a karabiner from the very last ..." 18/Aug top50

    Finale Groove (Boulder Ruckle)
    "Just as good as I remember" 25/Jul top50

    All the Shakespearoes (Subluminal)
    "Climbed a variation of my own invention. Climb through the lower overhang and a ..." 08/Jul

    The Grim Reaper (Boulder Ruckle)
    "Had an epic on P2 after Mark led P1 to the rightly described scary stance. After..." 11/Jun

    Sea View (Hedbury)
    "Lovely climb with a beautiful view. Loose rock everywhere adds to the fun. Anch..." 27/May

    Damage Case (Fisherman's Ledge)
    "it took me 3 trips to get to the right spot for the abseil in for the routes off..." 07/May

    Adrenochrome (Lulworth)
    "Same start as Horny Lil Devil" 01/May

    Plaice a Bolt (Winspit)
    "Consider extending (or unclipping) the second bolt since the arete between the s..." 05/Jan

    Roof Supreme (Blackers Hole)
    "Now Fully rebolted. Thanks to the BMC for supplying the bolts!" 18/Dec

    Jericho Groove (Boulder Ruckle)
    "Good little route well worth doing" 28/Oct

    Sun King (Boulder Ruckle)
    "Good technical climbing but nothing really hard, just quite balancey. Fairly bo..." 19/Sep

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