Western Grit

This section of the databases covers the huge sweep of gritstone from the magnificent pink-hued cliffs of north Staffordshire, through the high and wild outcrops of Kinder and Bleaklow, on through the quiet gems of the Chew Valley, into the extensive quarries of south east Lancashire and finally the best of the Cheshire sandstone outcrops. The cliffs on this side of the Pennines are not the elegant and extensive outcrops of the Eastern Edges, but a set of more retiring venues. They are less accessible and take some effort to get to know but of course, being gritstone, the effort is always well worth it.

Routes

2421 trad routes (M...E8)
35 sport routes (6a...7c)
161 boulder problems (V0- 4b...V12 8A+)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Roaches - Skyline
The less popular section of the Roaches which consists of a series of...
98
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

 
Roaches - The Five Clouds
The bumpy ridge to the south west of the Roaches has a small collection of...
46
-^^-
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

15 mins

 
Roaches - Lower
The finest of all the western gritstone cliffs (and some argue finest of all...
109
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

 
Roaches - Upper
The finest of all the western gritstone cliffs (and some argue finest of all...
84
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

 
Hen Cloud
The superb castellated buttresses of Hen Cloud offer some of grit’s finest...
100
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

 
Ramshaw
A series of east-facing (a real rarity) prows and buttresses, that overlook the...
133
^^^^
Trad
Morning sun
Level

3 mins

 
Newstones
A superb little crag in a delightful setting. Popular with boulderers.
27
-^--
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

2 mins

 
Baldstones
The continuation of the Newstones consists of a few large buttresses. Some...
23
----
Trad
Early morning sun
Up and Down

10 mins

 
Windgather
The little twin sister of Castle Naze, here again the climbs are generally...
67
^^-_
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

1 min

 
Castle Naze
A drafty little outcrop in a pleasant, west-facing situation, and when combined...
78
^^--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

 
New Mills Tor
The secret crag of Western Grit, set in a deep gloomy gorge right bang in the...
22
----
Trad
Sun and shade
Downhill

5 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Hobson Moor
Once a bit of a dump (and dumping ground) the quarry has been cleaned up,...
42
-^^-
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

1 min

Sheltered
Kinder South
A scattering of cliffs that overlook the tranquil Edale valley, and reflect the...
168
^^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

50 mins

 
Kinder North
There is much good climbing on the high and wild edges that ring the Kinder and...
162
^^^^
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

60 mins

 
Kinder Downfall
The cliffs around the famous cascade of the Kinder Downfall are amongst the...
68
^^^-
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

70 mins

 
Shining Clough
The best of the cliffs that fall under the broad banner of Bleaklow, a tall and...
75
^^^-
Trad
No sun
Uphill

45 mins

 
Laddow
In the early days of our sport Laddow Rocks were one of the prime venues...
63
^^--
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

45 mins

 
Tintwistle Knarr
A fine but neglected quarry in an impressive setting. The crag has an excellent...
23
_^--
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Sheltered
Wimberry
The Cinderella of Peak grit, an unsung gem of a crag with a fantastic...
72
^^^^
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

 
Rob's Rocks
A pleasant if diminutive south facing outcrop in as wild a setting as you might...
18
---_
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

40 mins

 
Wilderness Rocks
Wilderness Rocks is a remote north-facing cliff that sees little traffic (no...
24
----
Trad
No sun
Uphill

40 mins

 
Dovestones Edge
Not to be confused with its even more remote namesake in the Eastern Peak, this...
81
^^^-
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

25 mins

 
Ravenstones
A fine austere cliff, north facing in a lofty position looking out over...
110
^^^-
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

25 mins

 
Standing Stones
An easily reached cliff, from roadside parking near the high point of the A635...
57
-^^-
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

40 mins

Restricted Access
Upperwood Quarry
Not the most prepossessing of quarries although the best of the routes are...
19
----
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

5 mins

Restricted Access
Alderman
A small set of generally short climbs in a superb setting and on great quality...
13
---_
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

15 mins

 
Running Hill Pits
The Pits is a smallish set a quarries looking out over Diggle. Despite the fact...
84
-^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

10 mins

Sheltered
Den Lane
Den Lane Quarry is an easily-approached outcrop just to the west of the...
24
-^--
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

2 mins

Sheltered
Wilton 1
The Wilton complex of quarries (from 1 through to 4) overlooks Egerton, to the...
81
-^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

5 mins

Sheltered
Wilton 2
On the crest of the hill above the deep slash of Wilton 1 are three more...
43
--^-
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

2 mins

Sheltered
Restricted Access
Wilton 3
On the crest of the hill above the deep slash of Wilton 1 are three more...
47
^^--
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

3 mins

Sheltered
Restricted Access
Egerton Quarry
A hugely extensive quarry, not very far from the honey-pots of the Wilton...
8
_---
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

10 mins

Sheltered
Brownstones
A diminutive crag which has one of the longest climbing historys in all of...
43
^^--
Boulder
Afternoon sun
Level

4 mins

Sheltered
Anglezarke
One of the more popular venues in the Red Rose County is the extensive quarry...
66
-^^^
Trad
Morning sun
Up and Down

2 mins

Sheltered
Cadshaw Rocks
An oddity for Lancashire, a natural grit outcrop in a sunny setting. It has...
21
^--_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

20 mins

Sheltered
Denham
Denham is occasionally referred to as the ‘Lancashire Lawrencefield’, the...
15
----
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

1 min

Sheltered
Troy Quarry
Another very extensive quarry (over 70 routes), with a pond and a pinnacle...
13
----
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Witches' Quarry
NOTE: The negotiated access arrangements mean that ONLY 10 cars are allowed in...
11
_--_
Trad
Evening sun
Roadside

0 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Restricted Access
Summit Quarry
A neglected quarry with a good selection of climbs on the best bit of rock. The...
14
---_
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
Blackstone Edge
A small outcrop in a fine setting which offers plenty for the middle E grade...
23
----
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
Cow's Mouth Quarry
A remote quarry on the edge of Soyland Moor overlooking Littleborough. The...
32
-^--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
Helsby
A fine sandstone cliff overlooking the River Mersey and the motorway. It is...
87
^^^^
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Frodsham
A small set of west-facing buttresses on the crest of the wooded slopes of...
67
^^--
Boulder
Afternoon sun
Uphill

8 mins

Sheltered
Pex Hill
A hole in the ground that holds an important place in the hearts of Merseyside...
117
-^^^
Boulder
Early morning sun
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
Frogsmouth Quarry
Bolted but still neglected, Merseyside's best sport venue.
39
_-^-
Trad and Sport
Evening sun
Level

5 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Restricted Access
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For Western Grit

    Valkyrie (Roaches - Lower)
    "What hidden foothold? Damn spoilers in these comments had me gripped, but thinki..." 05/Aug top50

    First Finale (Anglezarke)
    "Not such a soft touch E1 now as the peg has gone and there is a big loose hold a..." 02/Jul

    Necrophiliac (Helsby)
    "Yeah if you used a mono you were on morgue slab, E2 5b. The moves on necrophilia..." 14/Jun

    The Abort (Pex Hill)
    "HVS 5a, like One Step, but with a balancy top-out." 02/Jun

    Rotunda Buttress (Roaches - Upper)
    "It's a lovely line and most of the route is very steady, but the top moves are h..." 06/Apr

    Some Product (Shining Clough)
    "^what hell your problem knobend?" 08/Feb

    Never, Never Land (Ramshaw)
    "In fact, Master's Edge, a middle of the road E7 is far, far harder. NNL should b..." 05/Feb

    Many Happy Returns (Anglezarke)
    "Nowhere near E1 and only just about HVS." 14/Oct

    Main Wall Climb (Shining Clough)
    "More fun than it looks, and surely the only polished foothold on the whole crag!..." 30/Sep

    Many Happy Returns (Anglezarke)
    "My intrepid leader pulled several very large chunks of the mid-height flake off ..." 11/Aug

    Christmas Arete (Windgather)
    "Really two boulder problems separated by a ledge. Good moves though." 09/Aug

    Dunisnane (Kinder North)
    "Spelt 'Dunsinane' isnt it." 20/Jan

    Chalkstorm (Roaches - Lower)
    "Many many years ago (20) I led this, it was E3 at the time if I remember correct..." 31/Dec top50

    Beatnik (Helsby)
    "My Bad, Beatnik was first top roped by Jim in the 60's and was soloed by Rouse i..." 19/Jul

    Wings of Unreason (Roaches - Skyline)
    "Good fun! I found the crux getting stood up in the pocket, prior to the jump." 06/Jul top50

    Tradesman's Entrance (Frodsham)
    "This description is misleading. 'Tradesman's Entrance' slaps out right to sloper..." 23/Jun

    Boldness Through Ignorance (Cow's Mouth Quarry)
    "Where exactly does Visions from the dark side climb? How was it done on the firs..." 30/May

    Twin Crack Corner (Standing Stones)
    "Forget 'MVS', how about HS 4b, a far too underused grade?" 21/May

    Syringe Benefit (Castle Naze)
    "Nice climbing, and looked much cleaner than Morocc'n Roll (which had weeds growi..." 20/May

    Arete Route (Frodsham)
    "Pity about the boring name - Ush Arete would be much better." 08/Apr

    Central Wall (Cadshaw Rocks)
    "A polished start and a steep committing pull through the horns (poor pro) make ..." 29/Mar

    Pedestal Route (Roaches - Upper)
    "Left of shield. Best route ever? Could be." 20/Feb top50

    The Redemption of a Grit Pegging Antichrist (New Mills Tor)
    "Has a hold come off this? This is the 2nd time I've tried but not done this rout..." 15/Oct

    Knobbly Wall (Dovestones Edge)
    "Yep I would also say this is Harder than HVD - that last moves are just plain aw..." 06/Oct

    Central Tower (Dovestones Edge)
    "A quality route that maybe a little trickier for those who are vertically challe..." 05/Oct

    Scoop Face Direct (Castle Naze)
    "Prob E1 5C due to polish low down. Crux rockover has good holds - less so for ha..." 16/Sep

    Chicken (Hen Cloud)
    "Absolute classic! Not that bold, but I thought 5b all the way, and so hard for ..." 14/Sep

    The Unknown Arete (Helsby)
    "Despo. Crux consists of rocking into the pocket off two average crimps and then ..." 13/Sep

    Green Teeth Crack (Helsby)
    "Know someone who's a hotshot at the local wall or on bolted limestone? Point th..." 01/Sep

    Sifta's Quid (Roaches - Lower)
    "Why oh why would you want to squirm under the boulder. enjoyed the crux though,..." 19/Aug

    Days Gone By (Roaches - Skyline)
    "If you stick to the crack for hands and feet it's harder than 4a, more like 4c. ..." 11/Jul

    Pod Crack (Castle Naze)
    "Definitely E2 6a" 03/Jul

    Cave Arete (Laddow)
    "The right hand finish is closer to Mod/Diff than 4a/b." 27/Jun

    Gold Rush (Baldstones)
    "A nice route, with lots of variety - easy slab, awkward scoop, small overhang an..." 18/Jun

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