The Great Buttress

Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
40 mins

This is the appropriately named dominant feature of the crag. The long routes here mostly provide absorbing climbing with the route Great Buttress being a fine example of a reasonably-graded route weaving through territory usually reserved for much harder climbs. The whole buttress sometimes retains its greenness. Guidebook page 76.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Polecat
12m. Head into and up a shallow corner part way up the face, then trend left to climb the roof via the flake-crack.
 VS 4b
2
Poll Taxed
10m. Climb just left of the central rib of the bay, through the mid-height bulge, then side-step the upper one.
1 user comment
 S 4a
3
Pole-axed
10m. Climb just right of the centre of the bay on large pockets, then pull through the bulge at a flake. Trend left up the...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
4
Jacobite's Route
12m. Pleasant enough. Climb the slab, then a groove, to a step right. Climb to the bulges that cap the wall, to finish up a...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
5
Slow Cooker
12m. Climb the shallow central groove of the projecting buttress to join Jacobite's. Follow this then make a tricky move up the...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
S 4a
6
Slocum
12m. Trend out right to a flake, follow this then more broken rock towards the bulges. A short loop left, then right, is needed...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
7
First Come
12m. A variation on Slocum. Pull over the centre of the low roof then keep right to avoid the parent route. Mantel onto the...
 HVS 5a
8
Gruyere
12m. From the toe of the gully climb the pocked wall to bulges. Step left, then pull back right onto the nose and finish...
1 user comment
 VS 4c
9
Dovestone Gully
20m. The deep chimney is interesting. Climb the debris, then cross the right wall to the front face of the buttress; up this,...
1 user comment
 M
10
Dovestone Edge
20m. Climb the bulges right of the gully (odd rock) and then the face right of the arete to short slab that is taken centrally.
 S 4a
11
Dovestone Wall
20m. Worthwhile with a steep start, though inclined to be green and grubby after rain. Begin 2m right of the gully and climb...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
12
A Little Green Eyed God
20m. Starting 3m right of the gully, climb past a jammed block and up the juggy wall to a break. Pull awkwardly onto the slab ...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
13
Barney Rubble
20m. Start 5m right of the gully and just right of a block on the ground. Climb into the left-hand sandy cave then move on up...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
14
Thread Flintstone
20m. Cross the roof directly below the rib that separates the twin caves and climb straight up the bulging wall (thread on the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
15
Brown Windsor
28m. Interesting but devious. Start at a soft orange thread under the centre of the wall and trend up and right to a square...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
16
Mock Turtle
20m. An eliminate though with some good moves. From an embedded spike pull over the roof then climb straight up the rib between...
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
E1 5b
17
Great Buttress Eliminate
22m. Start under the blunt arete, below a patch of orange rock, and pull strenuously over the initial overhang. Continue in a...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
18
Great Buttress Top 50
20m. A moorland classic; and well worth the walk up, though high in the grade. Start in a green corner below a huge roof and...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
19
Sforzando
16m. The large roof that hangs over the bay is tackled via up left edge using are a couple of small flakes. High in the grade.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4 6a
20
Central Climb
1) 4c, 12m. Start under the big roof and trend right to bypass it, gaining the groove with difficulty. Climb to a large...
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
21
Fennario
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the left-slanting crack left of stepped overhangs, to a grassy vertical crack and then the terrace...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS 4c
22
Nippon, Nippoff
8m. Follow the break that runs out left from a short way up the second pitch of Fennario to the exposed arete.
 E3 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "In reply to Duz Walker, I jammed and swung left to get left knee (it is grit aft..." 10/Sep

    Iltis
    "Mammoth blind reach required to good hold/bucket. I couldn't reach it until I'd ..." 03/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you..." 14/Jun

    Granny Smith
    "Looks horrendous- even at the BMC guide grade of E2 5c. Dont know where the good..." 04/Jun

    Excel
    "it seemed to make sense to solo this cos falling on to gear under the roof would..." 07/Sep

    Cox's Pippin
    "not really reachy, just steep with some very small holds (for an HVS) and not mu..." 07/Aug

    Thread Flintstone
    "Thought the move onto the lip seemed a bit harsh - "where are the holds&quo..." 24/Jul

    Caveman
    "This route needs a height restriction. Don't try it if you're over 5'8". ;-..." 17/Jul

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