Adjacent Areas
< Titania Area | Gargoyle and Route 1 Buttresses >
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
40 minsWindy
This is the appropriately named dominant feature of the crag. The long routes here mostly provide absorbing climbing with the route Great Buttress being a fine example of a reasonably-graded route weaving through territory usually reserved for much harder climbs. The whole buttress sometimes retains its greenness. Guidebook page 76.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Polecat 12m. Head into and up a shallow corner part way up the face, then trend left to climb the roof via the flake-crack. | VS 4b | |
2 |
Poll Taxed 10m. Climb just left of the central rib of the bay, through the mid-height bulge, then side-step the upper one. 1 user comment | S 4a | |
3 |
Pole-axed 10m. Climb just right of the centre of the bay on large pockets, then pull through the bulge at a flake. Trend left up the... | 1 Stars | S 4a |
4 |
Jacobite's Route 12m. Pleasant enough. Climb the slab, then a groove, to a step right. Climb to the bulges that cap the wall, to finish up a... 4 user comments | 1 Stars | D |
5 |
Slow Cooker 12m. Climb the shallow central groove of the projecting buttress to join Jacobite's. Follow this then make a tricky move up the... | 1 Stars Reachy | S 4a |
6 |
Slocum 12m. Trend out right to a flake, follow this then more broken rock towards the bulges. A short loop left, then right, is needed... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4a |
7 |
First Come 12m. A variation on Slocum. Pull over the centre of the low roof then keep right to avoid the parent route. Mantel onto the... | HVS 5a | |
8 |
Gruyere 12m. From the toe of the gully climb the pocked wall to bulges. Step left, then pull back right onto the nose and finish... 1 user comment | VS 4c | |
9 |
Dovestone Gully 20m. The deep chimney is interesting. Climb the debris, then cross the right wall to the front face of the buttress; up this,... 1 user comment | M | |
10 |
Dovestone Edge 20m. Climb the bulges right of the gully (odd rock) and then the face right of the arete to short slab that is taken centrally. | S 4a | |
11 |
Dovestone Wall 20m. Worthwhile with a steep start, though inclined to be green and grubby after rain. Begin 2m right of the gully and climb... 2 user comments | 2 Stars | VD |
12 |
A Little Green Eyed God 20m. Starting 3m right of the gully, climb past a jammed block and up the juggy wall to a break. Pull awkwardly onto the slab ... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
13 |
Barney Rubble 20m. Start 5m right of the gully and just right of a block on the ground. Climb into the left-hand sandy cave then move on up... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
14 |
Thread Flintstone 20m. Cross the roof directly below the rib that separates the twin caves and climb straight up the bulging wall (thread on the... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
15 |
Brown Windsor 28m. Interesting but devious. Start at a soft orange thread under the centre of the wall and trend up and right to a square... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4b |
16 |
Mock Turtle 20m. An eliminate though with some good moves. From an embedded spike pull over the roof then climb straight up the rib between... 2 user comments | Pumpy | E1 5b |
17 |
Great Buttress Eliminate 22m. Start under the blunt arete, below a patch of orange rock, and pull strenuously over the initial overhang. Continue in a... | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
18 |
Great Buttress Top 50 20m. A moorland classic; and well worth the walk up, though high in the grade. Start in a green corner below a huge roof and... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
19 |
Sforzando 16m. The large roof that hangs over the bay is tackled via up left edge using are a couple of small flakes. High in the grade. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong | E4 6a |
20 |
Central Climb 1) 4c, 12m. Start under the big roof and trend right to bypass it, gaining the groove with difficulty. Climb to a large... | 1 Stars | VS 5a |
21 |
Fennario 1) 4b, 12m. Climb the left-slanting crack left of stepped overhangs, to a grassy vertical crack and then the terrace... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Loose | VS 4c |
22 |
Nippon, Nippoff 8m. Follow the break that runs out left from a short way up the second pitch of Fennario to the exposed arete. | E3 6a | |
