The Great Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Titania Area  |  Gargoyle Buttress Area >

Trad
Sun and Shade
40 mins
Uphill
Windy

A well-named piece of rock - the main feature of the crag. The long routes here mostly provide absorbing climbing with the Great Buttress being a fine example of a reasonably-graded route weaving through territory usually reserved for much harder climbs. The whole buttress is often green.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Polecat
Head into and up a shallow groove part way up the face, then trend left to climb the roof via the flake-crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
2
Poll Taxed
Climb just left of the central rib of the bay, through the mid-height bulge, then side-step the upper one.
2 user comments
 S
3
Pole-axed
Climb just right of the centre of the bay on large pockets, then pull through the bulge at a flake. Trend left up the slab.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
4
Jacobite's Route
Climb a slab and groove to a step right. Climb to the bulge and finish up a flake crack. A VD direct version is less...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
5
Slow Cooker
Climb the shallow central groove of the projecting buttress to join Jacobite's Route. Follow this then make a tricky move up...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
S
6
Slocum
Devious. Trend out right to a flake. Follow this then more broken rock to the bulges. A short loop left, then right, is needed...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
7
First Come
A variation on Slocum. Pull over the centre of the low roof then keep right, avoiding Slocum. Mantel onto the large ledge below...
1 user comment
 
Reachy
HVS
8
Gruyère
From the toe of the gully, climb the pocked wall to bulges. Step left, then pull back right onto the nose (tricky) and finish...
2 user comments
 VS
9
Dovestone Gully
The interesting deep chimney. Climb the debris, cross the right wall to the front face of the buttress, up this, then cross a...
3 user comments
 
Graunchy
D
10
Dovestone Edge
Climb the bulges right of the gully (odd rock) and then the face right of the arete to short slab that is taken centrally....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
11
Dovestone Wall
Worthwhile with a steep start and inclined to be dirty after rain. Protection is well spaced. Begin 2m right of the gully and...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
12
A Little Green Eyed God
Starting 3m right of the gully, climb past a jammed block and up the juggy wall to a break. Pull awkwardly onto the slab...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
13
Barney Rubble
Jugtastic, and a bit bold too. Start 5m right of the gully, just right of a block on the ground. Climb into the left-hand sandy...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
VS
14
Thread Flintstone
Cross the roof directly below the rib between the twin caves and head straight up the bulging wall (thread out left) to the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1
15
Brown Windsor
Devious. Starting at a soft orange thread at the centre of the wall trend right to a square block. Step left and power over the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
16
Mock Turtle
An eliminate but with good moves. From a spike pull over the roof and head straight up the rib between Brown Windsor and Great...
3 user comments
 
Pumpy
E1
17
Great Buttress Eliminate
Good climbing but deffo an eliminate. Start under a blunt arete, below a patch of orange rock, and pull strenuously over the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
18
Great Buttress Top 50
A moorland classic; worth the hike up. High in the grade. Start in a green corner below the roof and trend left past the arete....
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
19
Sforzando
The large roof that hangs over the bay is tackled via up left edge using are a couple of small flakes. Wild!
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E5
20
Central Climb
1) 4c, 12m. Up the floral groove under the big roof and trend right, gaining a groove with difficulty. Climb to a large...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
21
Fennario
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the left-slanting crack left of stepped overhangs to a grassy vertical crack and then a terrace...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS
22
Nippon, Nippoff
Follow the break that runs out left of the second pitch of Fennario to the exposed arete.
1 user comment
 E3