The Great Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Titania Area  |  Gargoyle Buttress Area >

Trad
Afternoon sun
40 mins
Uphill

This is the appropriately named dominant feature of the crag. The long routes here mostly provide absorbing climbing with the route Great Buttress being a fine example of a reasonably-graded route weaving through territory usually reserved for much harder climbs. The whole buttress sometimes retains its greenness.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Polecat
Head into and up a shallow groove part way up the face, then trend left to climb the roof via the flake-crack.
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
2
Poll Taxed
Climb just left of the central rib of the bay, through the mid-height bulge, then side-step the upper one.
1 user comment
 S 4a
3
Pole-axed
Climb just right of the centre of the bay on large pockets, then pull through the bulge at a flake. Trend left up the slab.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
4
Jacobite's Route
Climb a slab and groove to a step right. Climb to the bulge and finish up a flake crack. A VDiff direct version is less...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
5
Slow Cooker
Climb the shallow central groove of the projecting buttress to join Jacobite's. Follow this then make a tricky move up the...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
S 4a
6
Slocum
Devious. Trend out right to a flake, follow this then more broken rock to the bulges. A short loop left, then right, is needed...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
7
First Come
A variation on Slocum. Pull over the centre of the low roof then keep right, avoiding Slocum. Mantel onto the large ledge below...
 
Reachy
HVS 5a
8
Gruyere
12m. From the toe of the gully climb the pocked wall to bulges. Step left, then pull back right onto the nose and finish...
1 user comment
 VS 4c
9
Dovestone Gully
The interesting deep chimney. Climb the debris, cross the right wall to the front face of the buttress, up this, then cross a...
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
D
10
Dovestone Edge
Climb the bulges right of the gully (odd rock) and then the face right of the arete to short slab that is taken centrally....
 
1 Stars
S 4a
11
Dovestone Wall
Worthwhile with a steep start and inclined to be dirty after rain. Protection is well spaced. Begin 2m right of the gully and...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
12
A Little Green Eyed God
Starting 3m right of the gully, climb past a jammed block and up the juggy wall to a break. Pull awkwardly onto the slab...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
13
Barney Rubble
Jugstatic, and a bit bold too. Start 5m right of the gully, just right of a block on the ground. Climb into the left-hand sandy...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
14
Thread Flintstone
Cross the roof directly below the rib between the twin caves and head straight up the bulging wall (thread out left) to the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
15
Brown Windsor
Devious. Starting at a soft orange thread at the centre of the wall trend right to a square block. Step left and power over the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
16
Mock Turtle
An eliminate but with good moves. From a spike pull over the roof and head straight up the rib between Brown Windsor and Great...
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
E1 5b
17
Great Buttress Eliminate
Good climbing but deffo an eliminate. Start under a blunt arete, below a patch of orange rock, and pull strenuously over the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
18
Great Buttress Top 50
A moorland classic; worth the hike up. High in the grade. Start in a green corner below the roof, trend left past the arete....
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
19
Sforzando
The large roof that hangs over the bay is tackled via up left edge using are a couple of small flakes. Wild!
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E5 6a
20
Central Climb
1) 4c, 12m. Up the floral groove under the big roof and trend right, gaining a groove with difficulty. Climb to a large ledge....
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
21
Fennario
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the left-slanting crack left of stepped overhangs to a grassy vertical crack and then a terrace stance. 2)...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS 4c
22
Nippon, Nippoff
Follow the break that runs out left of the second pitch of Fennario to the exposed arete.
 E3 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "In reply to Duz Walker, I jammed and swung left to get left knee (it is grit aft..." 10/Sep

    Iltis
    "Mammoth blind reach required to good hold/bucket. I couldn't reach it until I'd ..." 03/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you..." 14/Jun

    Granny Smith
    "Looks horrendous- even at the BMC guide grade of E2 5c. Dont know where the good..." 04/Jun

    Excel
    "it seemed to make sense to solo this cos falling on to gear under the roof would..." 07/Sep

    Cox's Pippin
    "not really reachy, just steep with some very small holds (for an HVS) and not mu..." 07/Aug

    Thread Flintstone
    "Thought the move onto the lip seemed a bit harsh - "where are the holds&quo..." 24/Jul

    Caveman
    "This route needs a height restriction. Don't try it if you're over 5'8". ;-..." 17/Jul

    Search for comments