The Great Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Titania Area  |  Gargoyle Buttress Area >

Trad
Sun and Shade
40 mins
Uphill
Windy

A well-named piece of rock - the main feature of the crag. The long routes here mostly provide absorbing climbing with the Great Buttress being a fine example of a reasonably-graded route weaving through territory usually reserved for much harder climbs. The whole buttress is often green.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Polecat
Head into and up a shallow groove part way up the face, then trend left to climb the roof via the flake-crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
2
Poll Taxed
Climb just left of the central rib of the bay, through the mid-height bulge, then side-step the upper one.
2 user comments
 S
3
Pole-axed
Climb just right of the centre of the bay on large pockets, then pull through the bulge at a flake. Trend left up the slab.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
4
Jacobite's Route
Climb a slab and groove to a step right. Climb to the bulge and finish up a flake crack. A VD direct version is less...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Diff
5
Slow Cooker
Climb the shallow central groove of the projecting buttress to join Jacobite's Route. Follow this then make a tricky move up...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
S
6
Slocum
Devious. Trend out right to a flake. Follow this then more broken rock to the bulges. A short loop left, then right, is needed...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
7
First Come
A variation on Slocum. Pull over the centre of the low roof then keep right, avoiding Slocum. Mantel onto the large ledge below...
1 user comment
 
Reachy
HVS
8
Gruyère
From the toe of the gully, climb the pocked wall to bulges. Step left, then pull back right onto the nose (tricky) and finish...
2 user comments
 VS
9
Dovestone Gully
The interesting deep chimney. Climb the debris, cross the right wall to the front face of the buttress, up this, then cross a...
3 user comments
 
Graunchy
Diff
10
Dovestone Edge
Climb the bulges right of the gully (odd rock) and then the face right of the arete to short slab that is taken centrally....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
11
Dovestone Wall
Worthwhile with a steep start and inclined to be dirty after rain. Protection is well spaced. Begin 2m right of the gully and...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
12
A Little Green Eyed God
Starting 3m right of the gully, climb past a jammed block and up the juggy wall to a break. Pull awkwardly onto the slab...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
13
Barney Rubble
Jugtastic, and a bit bold too. Start 5m right of the gully, just right of a block on the ground. Climb into the left-hand sandy...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
VS
14
Thread Flintstone
Cross the roof directly below the rib between the twin caves and head straight up the bulging wall (thread out left) to the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1
15
Brown Windsor
Devious. Starting at a soft orange thread at the centre of the wall trend right to a square block. Step left and power over the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
16
Mock Turtle
An eliminate but with good moves. From a spike pull over the roof and head straight up the rib between Brown Windsor and Great...
3 user comments
 
Pumpy
E1
17
Great Buttress Eliminate
Good climbing but deffo an eliminate. Start under a blunt arete, below a patch of orange rock, and pull strenuously over the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
18
Great Buttress Top 50
A moorland classic; worth the hike up. High in the grade. Start in a green corner below the roof and trend left past the arete....
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
19
Sforzando
The large roof that hangs over the bay is tackled via up left edge using are a couple of small flakes. Wild!
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E5
20
Central Climb
1) 4c, 12m. Up the floral groove under the big roof and trend right, gaining a groove with difficulty. Climb to a large...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
21
Fennario
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the left-slanting crack left of stepped overhangs to a grassy vertical crack and then a terrace...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS
22
Nippon, Nippoff
Follow the break that runs out left of the second pitch of Fennario to the exposed arete.
1 user comment
 E3
  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "In reply to Duz Walker, I jammed and swung left to get left knee (it is grit aft..." 10/Sep

    Iltis
    "Mammoth blind reach required to good hold/bucket. I couldn't reach it until I'd ..." 03/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you..." 14/Jun

    Granny Smith
    "Looks horrendous- even at the BMC guide grade of E2 5c. Dont know where the good..." 04/Jun

    Excel
    "it seemed to make sense to solo this cos falling on to gear under the roof would..." 07/Sep

    Cox's Pippin
    "not really reachy, just steep with some very small holds (for an HVS) and not mu..." 07/Aug

    Thread Flintstone
    "Thought the move onto the lip seemed a bit harsh - "where are the holds&quo..." 24/Jul

    Caveman
    "This route needs a height restriction. Don't try it if you're over 5'8". ;-..." 17/Jul

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