Strapiombo Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
15 mins

A splendid buttress with two classic grit-ticks on the overhang theme. There are also a few modern desperates but less in the lower grades. The front face gets the afternoon sun but Strapiombante faces north and can be cooler in hot weather. Guidebook page 270.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Strapiombante
8m. A fine micro-route, strenuous, with good gear to catch you if you blow the final moves. Trend right up the wall to a break...
17 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
2
Strapadictomy Top 50
9m. Hard work but with a well protected crux and low in the grade. Climb the short arete then lean out and layback onto the...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
3
Cock Robin
10m. With gear in Strapadictomy, climb the wall to the lump in the roof. Now try and stand up (easier for the short) then...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E6 7a
4
Strappotente
10m. An eliminate. Head straight through the centre of the roof, place gear in the lip, then grovel and press to reach the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E7 7a
5
Strapiombo
9m. The roof crack to the right is a battle. The use of knees, and loss of copious skin, are all to be expected!
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E1 5b
6
English Overhang
9m. The wide crack right of the roof is an awkward struggle.
1 user comment
 
Strong
VS 4c
7
Scarper's Triangle
9m. Climb leftwards out of the capped corner then pull back onto the slab. Balance up this to the blind finishing crack. The...
2 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
8
Oss Nob
8m. Balance up the scary left arete of the narrow slab.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
9
Left Flake-crack
8m. The crack left of the jutting flake is awkward at half-height
 S 4a
10
Right Flake-crack
8m. The right-hand crack is harder than it looks. Big gear helps.
 HS 4b
11
Parallel Piped
6m. The reachy left arete, with gear in the low break. Harder for the short. A good introduction to harder gritstone arete...
17 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E3 5c
12
Benign Lives
8m. The blank slab is lacking in pebbles and protection, it is rarely attempted. Graded for ascents without mats!
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6c
13
Mild
7m. Step off the mid-height ledge as for Benign Lives. Move up rightwards to the arete past a thin flake and a pocket.
 
Fluttery
E4 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For FROGGATT

    Sunset Crack
    "Didn't feel like a 4c to me - this was my first lead of anything above VDiff and..." 09/Dec

    Janker's Groove
    "Did the direct start as a sit start, as in the Bouldering guide recommended and ..." 09/Jun

    Downhill Racer
    "Quality, pretty on/off move low down and then not too much trouble above that. J..." 19/May

    Armaggedon
    "Shouldnt this be spelt Armageddon (1 'g', 2 'd's, as in BMC guide and the Ston..." 22/Jan

    Three Pebble Slab
    "The protection for the crux is great, fits a size 3 (i think) 4CU like a glove. ..." 29/Jan

    Downes’ Crack
    "Needs young arms!" 26/Nov

    Terrace Crack
    "Finished a warm, sunny end of September day with this and loved it. Consistent ..." 01/Oct

    Great Slab
    "I have some sympathy with John Yates. If the anti top rope lobby carries on seco..." 11/Jul top50

    Valkyrie
    "I found the crack harder than Chequers, worse even Terrazza? There are only a c..." 01/Jun top50

    Oedipus Ring Your Mother
    "not 6b, prob hard 5c. Awesome climbing though." 12/May

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