Rusty Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
No sun
Downhill
3 mins
Seepage
Sheltered

After a gap of 12m, the routes begin again. Guidebook page 13.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Ta Nick
16m. Ledges lead to much harder climbing on the steep headwall.
 
Crimpy
7a
2
Lady Luck
16m. The ledgy lower wall, behind a tree, leads to a left-slanting crack.
 6a
3
Apologia
16m. Another angular arete (left of the red dribbling crack) leads to a ledge; finish direct.
 6a+
4
Rust Never Sleeps
18m. Climb past the red dribbling crack then out right onto the wall and climb this direct.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
6c
5
Willows Never Weep
18m. The cleaned groove leads to steep finale up a thin crack.
 6a+
6
Trust Never Keeps
18m. A wall and blunt arete leads to the a high crux, left of a floral groove.
 6c
7
Encore Plus
18m. Start up a series of steps which leads to escalating difficulties on headwall.
 
Loose
6b
8
The Impulsive, Compulsive Beat
18m. A similar line up the right side of the face, starting 3m left of a stump.
 6b+
9
Triple X
20m. The steep blocky crack-line with a loose mid section.
 
Strong
6a+
10
New Face in Hell
18m. A tough lower wall leads to the easier groove high above.
1 user comment
 
Technical
6c
11
Coward
18m. A prominent arete leads to a crack and shallow groove in the arete above the ledge.
1 user comment
 6a+
12
Family Ties
20m. Balance up the long stepped groove to a pumpy finish..
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
6a
13
Freaky Friday
20m. The open scoop leads to steeper rock trending right.
 6a+
14
Cawdor Nothing
20m. The wall via a shallow slot and escalating difficulties is low in the grade
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
15
The Cutting Crew
20m. The right edge of the wall, via a rib, to hard moves high up.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
7a
16
Virgin on Porn
18m. From behind a stump and block on the ground, make a steep approach to the hanging groove above.
 6b
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For CAWDOR QUARRY

    Yours Truly
    "Some nice moves - but the rock feels worryingly loose in places. Spaced bolts, s..." 04/Sep

    Family Ties
    "The route may have been rebolted but it remains rather run out and it's in an ap..." 15/Jul

    Yours Truly
    "What a bag of ....! Like climbing vertical scree." 31/May

    Weakling
    "Rebolted with new stainless gear and new belay added." 31/May

    Feeding Frenzy
    "could you stop being so subtle fiend. Say what's on your mind..What are you elud..." 06/Aug

    Feeding Frenzy
    "Absolute wank. Eliminate rubbish up dirty and loose rock with rusty bolts." 06/Aug

    The Cutting Crew
    "Very similar in character and quality to Cawdor Nothing, unsurprisingly I suppos..." 14/Feb

    Demon
    "Similar to All Mine in its upper reaches but more cruxy in the first half. Again..." 22/Oct

    Coward
    "Balancy moves on the arete from the first ledge, but good moves throughout." 03/Oct

    Boffin
    "the 2nd wall - thought slightly right was ok but straight up or left of centre a..." 11/Sep

    Nit-Wit
    "4???!!! This is closer to 6a, maybe 6a+ due to the loose nature of the rock." 11/Jun

    Yours Truly
    "scarey bolt above a pillar, with a crux move.thought you could hit the pillar if..." 02/Jun

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