Hawk's Nest Crack

Adjacent Areas
< Sunset Slab  |  Terrace Crack >

Trad
Early morning sun
13 mins
Level
Windy

Past the soaring arete the oak trees shade a section of rock with some good vertical cracks and a slightly dingy cave; there are several fine climbs here. The whole area may be cooler in the summer (at least for the belayer) and the cave provides a decent shelter from the rain.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Epiphany
Climb the soaring arete on its left-hand side, with a detour left at half-height to place gear. A sustained and gripping pitch
 
2 Stars
E6
2
Holly Groove
The slippery twin cracks in the groove - the holly has long gone. Start up the left one, step into the right for a couple of...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS
3
Hawk's Nest Crack
A classic jamming crack that is a bit of a battle with a useful chockstone en-route where knees are usual. From the ledge...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
4
Horizontal Pleasure
The wild roof. From under the roof span to the lip, slap for a break then move right to jugs. Finish direct; big cams needed.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5
5
Cave Crack Indirect
For something a bit different, a teetery traverse right can be made which manages to sidestep the horrors of the roof crack.
 
1 Stars
HVS
6
Rambeau
A desperate left-hand start to Cave Crack. Possibly still easier than actually climbing Cave Crack though!
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
f7B
7
Cave Crack
A bruising battle for most. From a big thread, hand traverse the greasy flange and finger-jam the roof-crack. Once established...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
E3
8
Cave Crawl
Unique and bizarre. Wriggle up into the greasy slot in the back left corner of the cave, then breast stoke toward Swimmer's...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HS
9
Cave Wall
Bold and precarious. From the right rib of the cave boulder up and right to a small ledge from where scary balance moves on the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
E3
10
Beau Brummel
The right arete of the buttress with a harrowing leap for a sloping hold forming the crux. From above this move left to a...
 
1 Stars
E4
11
Swimmer's Chimney
The deep and ever-narrowing chimney slot is well named; you can flap but don't flounder!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S