Hawk's Nest Crack

Adjacent Areas
< Sunset Slab  |  Terrace Crack >

Trad
Early morning sun
13 mins
Level
Windy

Past the soaring arete the oak trees shade a section of rock with some good vertical cracks and a slightly dingy cave; there are several fine climbs here. The whole area may be cooler in the summer (at least for the belayer) and the cave provides a decent shelter from the rain.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Epiphany
Climb the soaring arete on its left-hand side, with a detour left at half-height to place gear. A sustained and gripping pitch
 
2 Stars
E6
2
Holly Groove
The slippery twin cracks in the groove - the holly has long gone. Start up the left one, step into the right for a couple of...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS
3
Hawk's Nest Crack
A classic jamming crack that is a bit of a battle with a useful chockstone en-route where knees are usual. From the ledge...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
4
Horizontal Pleasure
The wild roof. From under the roof span to the lip, slap for a break then move right to jugs. Finish direct; big cams needed.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5
5
Cave Crack Indirect
For something a bit different, a teetery traverse right can be made which manages to sidestep the horrors of the roof crack.
 
1 Stars
HVS
6
Rambeau
A desperate left-hand start to Cave Crack. Possibly still easier than actually climbing Cave Crack though!
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
f7B
7
Cave Crack
A bruising battle for most. From a big thread, hand traverse the greasy flange and finger-jam the roof-crack. Once established...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
E3
8
Cave Crawl
Unique and bizarre. Wriggle up into the greasy slot in the back left corner of the cave, then breast stoke toward Swimmer's...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HS
9
Cave Wall
Bold and precarious. From the right rib of the cave boulder up and right to a small ledge from where scary balance moves on the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
E3
10
Beau Brummel
The right arete of the buttress with a harrowing leap for a sloping hold forming the crux. From above this move left to a...
 
1 Stars
E4
11
Swimmer's Chimney
The deep and ever-narrowing chimney slot is well named; you can flap but don't flounder!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
12
Brightside
Low in the grade. From halfway up Swimmer's Chimney squirm rightwards past the arete and climb the wall by a hard move, things...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
13
Greedy Pig
The searing thin crack that forms a direct start to the last climb is fiercely technical and has gear which is hard to place.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
14
Avalanche
The groove on the right-hand side of the wall has a particularly hard pull over the roof.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
  • Latest Comments

    For FROGGATT

    The Screaming Dream
    "Changed from E7 7a ** to E7 6c **, no votes" 23/Mar

    Trapeze
    "Lovely!" 16/May

    Sunset Crack
    "Didn't feel like a 4c to me - this was my first lead of anything above VDiff and..." 09/Dec

    Janker's Groove
    "Did the direct start as a sit start, as in the Bouldering guide recommended and ..." 09/Jun

    Downhill Racer
    "Quality, pretty on/off move low down and then not too much trouble above that. J..." 19/May

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