Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Evening sun
Uphill
5 minsWindy
The main feature is the tall tower of La Panocha, standing in front of the main ridge, it has routes on all sides, and a fine airy summit. The broad Northwest Face has a deep chimney on its left-hand side. The best climbing is on the wall to its right, home to a series of fine climbs. Some of the routes have upper pitches, but the rock on these sections is poor and generally these have not been equipped. Guidebook page 62.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Epi The leaning arete of the northernmost block - hard. | Technical Crimpy | 7b |
2 |
Freinet 18m. The steep and technical left arete of the chimney gives an excellent piece of climbing. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a |
3 |
Buriles The smooth west face of the smaller block - hard. | Technical Crimpy | 7a+ |
4 |
Antonio Mairal A long route up the rib, then rightwards to the top of the tower.1) 4+, 24m. Start up the groove then climb a ramp to... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Loose | 4+ |
5 |
Freynet The steep and technical left arete of the chimney gives an excellent piece of climbing. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a |
6 |
Maria Angeles The first bolt-line on the right wall gives a thrilling expedition.1) 5+, 22m. Climb the chimney (classic) until it is... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Graunchy | 5+ |
7 |
Directa Norte The prominent thin crack in the left-hand side of the face to a niche with lower-off just to the right. Steeper than it looks. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6b+ |
8 |
Directissima The line of the old aid route Superdirectisima. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c |
9 |
Norte Baldomera Weave a way up the face just left of the wide, inviting crack to pass the left-edge of the overhang then continue to a... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6c+ |
10 |
Fisura Gallego A decent climb up a powerful line. Sadly some of the rock is a bit on the crusty side. Also known as Fisura Norte. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Loose | 6b |
11 |
Gallego - Cãnovas The magnificent face immediately right of the chimney. There is a lower-off at 18m for those not wanting the summit. | 3 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
12 |
Gallego - Tirolinas Up the crack splitting the bulges. There is a lower-off at 12m and the second pitch is only 6a+. | 2 Stars | 6c+ |
13 |
Maneras de Subir Step off the block, swing right, and climb the face and rib. Sharp rock with some blind cranking on nice crisp holds. There is... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | 6b+ |
14 |
Fuensanta Maruja Start just right of the northwest arete of the tower and climb the steep wall then thin cracks leftwards to a mid-route... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a |