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Sport

Lots of sun!

Up and Down

5 mins

Windy

El Castellet is the huge diamond-shaped wall which offers a mixture of trad and sport routes. The lower left section has been developed with the most popular sport routes in the whole valley. Guidebook page 226.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Maiane The short sharp wall on the far left - stay left of the bolts. 4 user comments	1 Stars Crimpy	6a+
2	Chapa Pallá Tricky moves lead past the orange patch, which is approached from the right. A bit of an eliminate. 1 user comment	Technical	6b+
3	Buho The blunt rib in the centre of the face is delicate and sharp, leading to a butch finish over the juggy roof. 4 user comments	1 Stars Crimpy	6a
4	Buho Variant The blank face is desperate, but at least it's not chipped. 2 user comments	1 Stars Reachy Crimpy	7b+
5	Bitman The right side of the smooth face gives technical climbing. 2 user comments	1 Stars Technical	7a+
6	Papel de Lija Desperate climbing up the broccoli-covered wall. A real tip shredder. 2 user comments	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	7b
7	Patas de pollo The steep groove just left of the small tree leads leftwards to crucial moves up and right into its continuation. 3 user comments	1 Stars Technical	6b+
8	Anarkia y birra fría The steep tufa and fierce grey rib above. More like 6b if you use the woodwork. 8 user comments	1 Stars Crimpy	6c
9	Edwards el colonialista Climb the wall past a tiny tufa to a tricky mantel out right. 4 user comments	1 Stars Strong	6a+
10	Salsika timbanki A desperate dyno, or a fingery crimp, gains a stuck-on hold. Above it is easier. 3 user comments	Reachy Technical Crimpy	7b
11	Llagrimes de pedra A desperate-looking route up the powdery grey wall.		8a
12	La Paella Climb the pocketed wall into the grey scoop, then the goutte covered wall above. Excellent but hard. 7 user comments	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	7a+
13	El puchero de m'aula Grotty rock leads to the juggy crack and then the left-trending ramp above. Accessing this is the delicate crux. 3 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	5+
14	El minxto More grotty rock leads to a short wall then two sets of juggy bulges. 4 user comments	1 Stars Strong	6a
15	Che, pero com, pero qui After a hard start, climb cracks leftwards then through bulges. 3 user comments	1 Stars	6a+
16	Soplamela The grey rib, then right at the bulge and up a steep groove. 2 user comments	1 Stars Crimpy	6b
17	La saga de los coletas Zig-zag cracks lead rightwards to a groove, then up the wall on the left. Long reaches over the final bulge. 3 user comments	1 Stars Reachy	7a
18	Cervezas y porros The best line on the wall. Climb the steep brown pillar. Avoid the right-hand crack for a harder finish. 2 user comments	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	7a+
19	Waka Plaka The centre of the orange wall is good and hard, especially at half-height. 2 user comments	1 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy	7a
20	Tarzan The right-hand side of the lower slab and then up pale grey streaks and a short diagonal crack. Has a tough crux. 3 user comments	1 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy	7a+
21	Lagartija Sai Fingery climbing up the grey wall on the right. 2 user comments	1 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy	6c
22	5th Marcha Directa A long pitch crossing a ramp at mid-height, with a steep finish. Worthwhile depite only a couple of hard moves. 4 user comments	1 Stars Reachy Crimpy	6c
23	El pas de la forella An easier route with a tricky lower section. Trend left to join the previous climb for a worthwhile finish. 2 user comments	1 Stars	6a
24	Cuarto d'Aseo The last offering on the wall is the easiest route here. Cross the break and climb the rib to the lower-off. 1 user comment	1 Stars	4+
25	Avispilla Just right of the tree-filled gully and the face above with a final hard move right to the lower-off. 5 user comments	2 Stars	5+
26	Sabine bonsai A similar line just to the right. 3 user comments	2 Stars Technical	6b
27	Avispofobia The centre of the wall passing the diagonal break. 2 user comments		7a
28	La abeja mayi Follow the water streak to a lower-off just below the bush. 3 user comments	1 Stars Crimpy	6c
29	Bretaña no es España The right-hand line on the smooth wall has a balancy crux. 2 user comments	1 Stars	6c
30	Diagonal Vertical A diagonal crack line leads to a single bolt belay on Bretaña no es España - it is 5 to here. Continue direct for the full... 1 user comment	1 Stars	6b
31	Autopista parabólica 1) 6a, 15m. Can be done on its own. 2) Scramble across easy ground to the base of the upper wall.3) 5, 25m. A vertical... 1 user comment	1 Stars	6a
32	Lagarto A variation to the right of pitch 3 of Autopista parabólica.	1 Stars	5
33	Little Bootie Sev. Climb the short wall and then the left crack. Lower-off. 4 user comments	1 Stars	4
34	Big Bootie Sev. The other crack to the same lower-off is trickier to protect. 2 user comments		4
35	Árbol directo HS. Start below the small bush. Climb the slab then move right to a crack just above the tree. Follow this to the lower-off. 1 user comment	1 Stars	4+
36	Domingo negra E1. As for Ábol Directo to below the tree. Move right then climb direct before trending right up a crack to a lower-off.	1 Stars Crimpy	6a+
37	Vino tinto E3. A bold route. Start below an overhanging groove. Climb the corner and then follow the steepening-slab leftwards. Make some...	1 Stars Fluttery	6b
38	Salir por encima E3. A strenuous, well-protected roof. Climb the corner to an overhanging crack. Up this and the crack above to a lower-off.	2 Stars Strong	6b+
39	Strongbody E1. Climb the right-hand arete of the groove. Fiddly gear. 1 user comment	1 Stars	6a
40	The Wasp VS. Some pleasant climbing with a spectacular finish, and quite popular. Start below a steep slab at the left edge of the... 2 user comments	1 Stars Loose	4+
41	La mosca VDiff. Start right of The Wasp below a wide crack. Climb the short wall and enter the wide crack on the left. Follow this to a...		3
42	Mosca derecha VDiff. Start by the left side of a large bush. Climb the slab until you can traverse left to a crack. Follow this to a ledge,... 1 user comment		3+
43	Mosca directa VDiff. Start down and left of the bush. Climb the slab, move slightly left and then direct to a ledge. Climb the corner on the...	1 Stars	4
44	Scorpion HS. A long route with a spectacular finish. Start to the right of some large bushes growing 10m up the face.1) 4, 45m.... 2 user comments	1 Stars Loose	4+
45	A Game of Two Halves The short, bolted direct finish to Scorpion.	3 Stars	6a
46	The October Sessions The left-hand bolt-line gives fierce climbing on good rock.	2 Stars Technical	7b+
47	Revelation Start up an easy groove, stepping right to clip the first bolt. Follow the red wall above direct past some scoops.	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b
48	All aboard! A fine long pitch forcing its way up the central headwall.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7c
49	Wasp Route Ten A long fully-bolted line on the right-hand side of the red wall.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7a+
50	The Cut E3. Start below a thin crack, 4m left of the big chimney.1) 6b, 40m. Climb the slab to the crack. Up this until it ends...	1 Stars Fluttery Loose	6b
51	Cosmic Messenger E1. Climb through the overhangs at the top of wall. Start left of the wide chimney of Force of Nature.1) 5+, 40m. A crack...	1 Stars Loose	6a+
52	Force of Nature E6. An unbalanced climb. Start up the big chimney.1) 5, 40m. Climb the chimney and follow the right-hand branch where it...	1 Stars Strong Loose	7c
53	Edwards-Lee Pillar E2. The pillar on the right.1) 6a, 25m. Start below a left-slanting crack. Climb the wall past a tree to a recess. Move out...	1 Stars	6a
54	The Mark of Zorro E3. A harder alternative to The E.L. Pillar with a bold first pitch.1) 6b, 25m. Start as for The E.L. Pillar. From the...	1 Stars	6b

El Castellet

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