Bernia Routes

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  The Bernia Ridge >

Sport
Lots of sun!
3 mins
Up and Down

The most striking feature on this side of the Bernia is the huge ship's prow of The Sphinx, home to one of the best routes in the area - The Magic Flute. Guidebook page 266.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Immaculate Arete
A fine, but rarely-repeated route up the huge arete starting up the sharp grey slab.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b
2
Jayne's Project
The slab leads to a short steep wall with pockets.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
3
Paradise Lost
A slabby start, but steeper above.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
4
The First and Last
Start up a rugged slab to reach the steep crack splitting the soaring grey wall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b
5
Via Gomez
Climb a tough blank wall to a rest. From here, there are a trio of finishes to choose from, all involve steep work on pockets,...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
6
Gomez el mas duro
Hideously hard climbing, reachy and dynamic too.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
8b+
7
Tufa Groove
The stunning tufa-draped groove.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
8
The Magic Flute Top 50
Brilliant climbing, one of the best of the grade in the area. Gain the beckoning tufa using pockets, then climb it to a...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
9
Gomez la maquina
A hard move early on (sika foot-hold) leads to a leaning wall climbed on poor one- and two-fingers pockets. Moving onto the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
8a+
10
The Sphinx
The spectacular prow above the Magic Flute belay gives a long demanding pitch. From the upper belay, a 6a+ pitch leads to the...
 
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
11
The Grand Diedre
1) 6c, 2) 6b+. The big corner to the right of the prow.
 
1 Stars
6c
12
Secrets
Climb the slab direct to the crack. It is easiest to keep left. Take a small rack.
 
Technical
7a
13
The Diagonal
The crack itself in one long pitch. There is some fixed gear, but take a full rack.
 
1 Stars
6c
14
Mark in Time
A big route up the steep, double-curving wall with lots of pockets. See overview topo.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
15
The Long Rib
The long rib and steep wall right of Mark in Time.
 
3 Stars
6c
16
Pobrecito
An ugly route up the blocky groove and short crux wall.
1 user comment
 6a
17
Ranura
Nice climbing up the pleasant wall to the 'bergschrund'. Cross this then pull up right.
 
1 Stars
5c
18
Pedazos
Climb the rib then the crack to the 'bergshrund' slot. Pull steeply up on a slightly hollow flake to gain the upper wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
19
Bloque!
The rib right of the wide crack leads to the double overhangs, the first is easy the second a real stopper.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
20
Brevemente
The short left-hand line has the odd good move.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5c
21
Bajo de estatura
The right-hand line. Short, sharp and a bit loose.
 
Loose
5a
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  • Latest Comments

    For BERNIA

    The Bernia Ridge
    "We went through the forgat, turned left, thrashed through vegetation following ..." 07/Nov

    Tufa Groove
    "Come on, this isn't Kalymnos! Standard Spanish 7b+ (i.e. a bit soft). Great ro..." 20/Feb

    The Magic Flute
    "I thought it was 7b+. But whatever your opinion of the grade it is a brilliant ..." 24/Mar top50

    Pobrecito
    "please don't climb this route - the clipping above the ledge is dangerous." 02/Mar

    Tufa Groove
    "locally given 7c, and even as 7c not easy for the grade." 06/Apr

    Pedazos
    "This route was a bit of a surprise. Completely caught me off guard. Moving past ..." 29/Mar

    The Magic Flute
    "Soft touch 7b - definitely not 7b+. Excellent climbing." 29/Jul top50

    The Magic Flute
    "The best route in Costa Blanca, its setting, architecture and brutality set it o..." 21/Feb top50

    Tufa Groove
    "Much hard proposition to Magix Flute. A bit dirty at the bottom." 07/Jan

    The Magic Flute
    "A classic. 7b+. Fingery wall to a sustained tufa. Hands off at top of tufa follo..." 06/Jan top50

    The Magic Flute
    "stunning route. Crux is probably low down, but the tufa just keeps going! tech..." 26/Dec top50

    Gomez la maquina
    "According to locals, this is apparently 7c if you take the pockety detour into m..." 04/Feb

    Mark in Time
    "An incredible route! Not to be missed!!" 09/Jan

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