Bernia Routes

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  The Bernia Ridge >

Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
3 mins

The most striking feature on this side of the Bernia is the huge ship's prow of The Sphinx, home to one of the best routes in the area - The Magic Flute. Guidebook page 266.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Immaculate Arete
A fine, but rarely-repeated route up the huge arete starting up the sharp grey slab.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b
2
Jayne's Project
The slab leads to a short steep wall with pockets.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
3
Paradise Lost
A slabby start, but steeper above.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
4
The First and Last
Start up a rugged slab to reach the steep crack splitting the soaring grey wall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b
5
Via Gomez
Climb a tough blank wall to a rest. From here, there are a trio of finishes to choose from, all involve steep work on pockets,...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a
6
Gomez el mas duro
Hideously hard climbing, reachy and dynamic too.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
8b+
7
Tufa Groove
The stunning tufa-draped groove.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
8
The Magic Flute Top 50
Brilliant climbing, one of the best of the grade in the area. Gain the beckoning tufa using pockets, then climb it to a...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
9
Gomez la maquina
A hard move early on (sika foot-hold) leads to a leaning wall climbed on poor one- and two-fingers pockets. Moving onto the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
8a+
10
The Sphinx
The spectacular prow above the Magic Flute belay gives a long demanding pitch. From the upper belay, a 6a+ pitch leads to the...
 
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
11
The Grand Diedre
1) 6c, 2) 6b+. The big corner to the right of the prow.
 
1 Stars
6c
12
Secrets
Climb the slab direct to the crack. It is easiest to keep left. Take a small rack.
 
Technical
7a
13
The Diagonal
The crack itself in one long pitch. There is some fixed gear, but take a full rack.
 
1 Stars
6c
14
Mark in Time
A big route up the steep, double-curving wall with lots of pockets. See overview topo.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
15
The Long Rib
The long rib and steep wall right of Mark in Time.
 
3 Stars
6c
16
Pobrecito
An ugly route up the blocky groove and short crux wall.
1 user comment
 6a
17
Ranura
Nice climbing up the pleasant wall to the 'bergschrund'. Cross this then pull up right.
 
1 Stars
5+
18
Pedazos
Climb the rib then the crack to the 'bergshrund' slot. Pull steeply up on a slightly hollow flake to gain the upper wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
19
Bloque!
The rib right of the wide crack leads to the double overhangs, the first is easy the second a real stopper.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
20
Brevemente
The short left-hand line has the odd good move.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5+
21
Bajo de estatura
The right-hand line. Short, sharp and a bit loose.
 
Loose
5
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  • Latest Comments

    For BERNIA

    The Bernia Ridge
    "We went through the forgat, turned left, thrashed through vegetation following ..." 07/Nov

    Tufa Groove
    "Come on, this isn't Kalymnos! Standard Spanish 7b+ (i.e. a bit soft). Great ro..." 20/Feb

    The Magic Flute
    "I thought it was 7b+. But whatever your opinion of the grade it is a brilliant ..." 24/Mar top50

    Pobrecito
    "please don't climb this route - the clipping above the ledge is dangerous." 02/Mar

    Tufa Groove
    "locally given 7c, and even as 7c not easy for the grade." 06/Apr

    Pedazos
    "This route was a bit of a surprise. Completely caught me off guard. Moving past ..." 29/Mar

    The Magic Flute
    "Soft touch 7b - definitely not 7b+. Excellent climbing." 29/Jul top50

    The Magic Flute
    "The best route in Costa Blanca, its setting, architecture and brutality set it o..." 21/Feb top50

    Tufa Groove
    "Much hard proposition to Magix Flute. A bit dirty at the bottom." 07/Jan

    The Magic Flute
    "A classic. 7b+. Fingery wall to a sustained tufa. Hands off at top of tufa follo..." 06/Jan top50

    The Magic Flute
    "stunning route. Crux is probably low down, but the tufa just keeps going! tech..." 26/Dec top50

    Gomez la maquina
    "According to locals, this is apparently 7c if you take the pockety detour into m..." 04/Feb

    Mark in Time
    "An incredible route! Not to be missed!!" 09/Jan

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