Adjacent Areas
< None | The Bernia Ridge >
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down
3 minsWindy
The most striking feature on this side of the Bernia is the huge ship's prow of The Sphinx, home to one of the best routes in the area - The Magic Flute. Guidebook page 266.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Immaculate Arete A fine, but rarely-repeated route up the huge arete starting up the sharp grey slab. | 3 Stars Technical | 7b |
2 |
Jayne's Project The slab leads to a short steep wall with pockets. | 1 Stars Technical | 6c |
3 |
Paradise Lost A slabby start, but steeper above. | 2 Stars Technical | 7a |
4 |
The First and Last Start up a rugged slab to reach the steep crack splitting the soaring grey wall. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8b |
5 |
Via Gomez Climb a tough blank wall to a rest. From here, there are a trio of finishes to choose from, all involve steep work on pockets,... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 8a |
6 |
Gomez el mas duro Hideously hard climbing, reachy and dynamic too. | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | 8b+ |
7 |
Tufa Groove The stunning tufa-draped groove. 3 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b+ |
8 |
The Magic Flute Top 50 Brilliant climbing, one of the best of the grade in the area. Gain the beckoning tufa using pockets, then climb it to a... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
9 |
Gomez la maquina A hard move early on (sika foot-hold) leads to a leaning wall climbed on poor one- and two-fingers pockets. Moving onto the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 8a+ |
10 |
The Sphinx The spectacular prow above the Magic Flute belay gives a long demanding pitch. From the upper belay, a 6a+ pitch leads to the... | Technical Strong Pumpy | 8a |
11 |
The Grand Diedre 1) 6c, 2) 6b+. The big corner to the right of the prow. | 1 Stars | 6c |
12 |
Secrets Climb the slab direct to the crack. It is easiest to keep left. Take a small rack. | Technical | 7a |
13 |
The Diagonal The crack itself in one long pitch. There is some fixed gear, but take a full rack. | 1 Stars | 6c |
14 |
Mark in Time A big route up the steep, double-curving wall with lots of pockets. See overview topo. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8b |
15 |
The Long Rib The long rib and steep wall right of Mark in Time. | 3 Stars | 6c |
16 |
Pobrecito An ugly route up the blocky groove and short crux wall. 1 user comment | 6a | |
17 |
Ranura Nice climbing up the pleasant wall to the 'bergschrund'. Cross this then pull up right. | 1 Stars | 5+ |
18 |
Pedazos Climb the rib then the crack to the 'bergshrund' slot. Pull steeply up on a slightly hollow flake to gain the upper wall. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 6a+ |
19 |
Bloque! The rib right of the wide crack leads to the double overhangs, the first is easy the second a real stopper. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a+ |
20 |
Brevemente The short left-hand line has the odd good move. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy | 5+ |
21 |
Bajo de estatura The right-hand line. Short, sharp and a bit loose. | Loose | 5 |
