Magical Mystery Tour

Adjacent Areas
< Raco del Corv  |  Pirates of the Caribbean >

Sport
Sun from mid-morning
20 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Seepage

The southern side of the Toix headland forms a continuous sea-cliff up to 80m high. One classic trad expedition has been climbed here which gives a brilliant day out. There are more routes in this area but most have old and rotten fixed gear and can't be recommended. The wall is sheltered and gets lots of sun. The rock can be greasy in the mornings if it is humid.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rowland's Promised Land
An expedition; allow 5-6 hours for the trip. Start as for J to X.1 to 6) 105m. As for Journey to Xanadu.7) 2, 18m....
 
2 Stars
6b
2
Rowland's Journey to Xanadu
A fine, but hard, extension to MMT with some dramatically positioned pitches. The climbing is very committing and the route...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6c
3
Journey to Xanadu
A committing extension to MMT.1) to 3) 55m. As for MMT.4) 4, 20m. Traverse round a pillar and across a slab to a...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
6c
4
Kubla Khan
The overhanging crack right of Journey to Xanadu. Steep and sustained but not technically too difficult. 1) to 6) As for...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
5
Dimage
A good route with some fine positions.1) to 3) 55m. As for MMT.4) 6a+, 25m. Climb left onto a loose pillar then move...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
6b+
6
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour Top 50
HVS. A popular mini-expedition. There is some fixed gear where most needed, but take a rack. Approach by walking right (looking...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
5a
7
Raptured Dreams
50m. The route is a touch loose at the bottom and a selection of large wires are needed for the final crack.
 
Pumpy
7a
8
The Flame
50m. A fine pitch up a tufa. Take some wires to protect the moves to the first bolt, and for the short second pitch (6a). The...
1 user comment
 
Technical
Pumpy
7b
9
Candelabra del Sol
50m. An impressive route. Follow the steep back and side wall of the cave in one huge pitch. There is a 2nd bolted line which...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
10
Goliath
45m. A hard route up the bug tufas left of the ladders. Climb the left side of the pinnacle then move onto the arete. Follow...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
11
Lady in Space
Start below a steep crack to the right of the ladders.1) 6b, 27m. The gear is mostly fixed but big cams may help. Climb the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6b
12
Malice Aforethought
FA. R.Edwards, D.Golding 2000
 
1 Stars
Loose
6b