Adjacent Areas
< Raco Del Corv | Pirates of the Caribbean >
Trad and Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and Down
20 minsAbseil
Seepage
Windy
The southern side of the Toix headland forms a continuous sea-cliff up to 80m high. One classic trad expedition has been climbed here which gives a brilliant day out. There are more routes in this area but most have old and rotten fixed gear and can't be recommended. The lines are indicated by white arrows - check www.rockfax.com or www.compasswest.com for more details. Guidebook page 310.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Rowland's Promised Land An expedition; allow 5-6 hours for the trip. Start as for J to X.1 to 6) 105m. As for Journey to Xanadu.7) 2, 18m.... | 2 Stars | 6b |
2 |
Rowland's Journey to Xanadu A fine, but hard, extension to MMT with some dramatically positioned pitches. The climbing is very committing and the route... | 3 Stars Pumpy Loose | 6c |
3 |
Journey to Xanadu A committing extension to MMT.1) to 3) 55m. As for MMT.4) 4, 20m. Traverse round a pillar and across a slab to a... | 2 Stars Fluttery | 6c |
4 |
Kubla Khan The overhanging crack right of Journey to Xanadu. Steep and sustained but not technically too difficult. 1) to 6) As for... | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7b |
5 |
Dimage A good route with some fine positions.1) to 3) 55m. As for MMT.4) 6a+, 25m. Climb left onto a loose pillar then move... | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery Loose | 6b+ |
6 |
Magical Mystery Tour Top 50 HVS. A popular mini-expedition. There is some fixed gear where most needed, but take a rack. Approach by walking right (looking... 10 user comments | 3 Stars | 5 |
7 |
Raptured Dreams 50m. The route is a touch loose at the bottom and a selection of large wires are needed for the final crack. | Pumpy | 7a |
8 |
The Flame 50m. A fine pitch up a tufa. Take some wires to protect the moves to the first bolt, and for the short second pitch (6a). The... 1 user comment | Technical Pumpy | 7b |
9 |
Candelabra del Sol 50m. An impressive route. Follow the steep back and side wall of the cave in one huge pitch. There is a 2nd bolted line which... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a |
10 |
Goliath 45m. A hard route up the bug tufas left of the ladders. Climb the left side of the pinnacle then move onto the arete. Follow... | 2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8a |
11 |
Lady in Space Start below a steep crack to the right of the ladders.1) 6b, 27m. The gear is mostly fixed but big cams may help. Climb the... | 2 Stars Pumpy Loose | 6b |
12 |
Malice Aforethought FA. R.Edwards, D.Golding 2000 | 1 Stars Loose | 6b |
