Magical Mystery Tour

Adjacent Areas
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Trad and Sport
Sun from mid-morning
20 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Seepage

The southern side of the Toix headland forms a continuous sea-cliff up to 80m high. One classic trad expedition has been climbed here which gives a brilliant day out. There are more routes in this area but most have old and rotten fixed gear and can't be recommended. The lines are indicated by white arrows - check www.rockfax.com or www.compasswest.com for more details.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rowland's Promised Land
An expedition; allow 5-6 hours for the trip. Start as for J to X.1 to 6) 105m. As for Journey to Xanadu.7) 2, 18m....
 
2 Stars
6b
2
Rowland's Journey to Xanadu
A fine, but hard, extension to MMT with some dramatically positioned pitches. The climbing is very committing and the route...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6c
3
Journey to Xanadu
A committing extension to MMT.1) to 3) 55m. As for MMT.4) 4, 20m. Traverse round a pillar and across a slab to a...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
6c
4
Kubla Khan
The overhanging crack right of Journey to Xanadu. Steep and sustained but not technically too difficult. 1) to 6) As for...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
5
Dimage
A good route with some fine positions.1) to 3) 55m. As for MMT.4) 6a+, 25m. Climb left onto a loose pillar then move...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
6b+
6
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
HVS. A popular mini-expedition. There is some fixed gear where most needed, but take a rack. Approach by walking right (looking...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
5a
7
Raptured Dreams
50m. The route is a touch loose at the bottom and a selection of large wires are needed for the final crack.
 
Pumpy
7a
8
The Flame
50m. A fine pitch up a tufa. Take some wires to protect the moves to the first bolt, and for the short second pitch (6a). The...
1 user comment
 
Technical
Pumpy
7b
9
Candelabra del Sol
50m. An impressive route. Follow the steep back and side wall of the cave in one huge pitch. There is a 2nd bolted line which...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
10
Goliath
45m. A hard route up the bug tufas left of the ladders. Climb the left side of the pinnacle then move onto the arete. Follow...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
11
Lady in Space
Start below a steep crack to the right of the ladders.1) 6b, 27m. The gear is mostly fixed but big cams may help. Climb the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6b
12
Malice Aforethought
FA. R.Edwards, D.Golding 2000
 
1 Stars
Loose
6b