Penya Ginesta Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

A small crag of white limestone in a super situation looking straight out into the Med. It is close to the road and only a 15 minute drive from the airport and as such makes a good bet on travel day. The crag has a spread of grades with the common arrangement of easier routes on the flanks of the cliff and harder ones on the steeper central section.
Approach - Drive south-west from the airport/Barcelona (choice of roads) through Castelldefels until just short of the first tunnel. Keep right on the C31, rather than follow the A16 toll road into the Tunnels de Garraf (towards Tarragona). As the road rises up and swings left to cross the motorway there is a wide entrance on the right and signs for the Parc Natrell de Garraf (or similar). Drive to a large roundabout, go straight across this then continue steeply up the hill zig-zags to a parking place on the left below the crag, which is reached by a steep 5 minutes. Alternately park at the next space on the left then scramble up and right then traverse the scrubby slope until a short awkward descent leads to the left-hand edge of the cliff - again less then 5 minutes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Fabulas Humanas
The left-most line currently has ancient fixed gear.
1 user comment
 5c
2
Fraguel Rock
Short and steep!
 
Technical
6b+
3
Nospot
Tricky, the upper section is easier but has no fixed gear so use the Fraguel Rock lower-off!
 
Crimpy
7a
4
I Ara Que
A sharp little beast.
 
Crimpy
6c
5
Que Morro
.. and another.
 
Crimpy
6b
6
Mal al Dit
At least the holds are bigger on this one. The steep lower wall gives way to easier ground above.
 
1 Stars
6a
7
Delirium Tremens
Another worthwhile pitch up the wall and bulge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
8
Lalu
The thin seam up the wall and tricky bulge above.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c
9
Los Presos Venenos
Thin and sustained though the bolts are nice and close together on this one. Trend right under the bulges to finish.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
10
Pedro
The short crack and groove is pumpy as hell.The local guide guide gives it a sandbag grade of 4c!
3 user comments
 
Technical
Pumpy
6a
11
Pepi 1
Devious and interesting - just follow the white arrows! Finish direct or traverse left or right to the lower-offs there.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5c
12
Zoe 0
A worthwhile pitch on the left-hand side of the next section of clean rock, lower off at 18m or continue up the short, sharp...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5a
13
Los Ninos
The wall to the right is path-like apart from the short scooped crucial wall - which is tough.
 
Technical
Pumpy
6b
14
Gavatxo
The blunt rib and juggy rock above lead to the final steep corner with a useful lower-off at its base!!
 
2 Stars
Technical
5a
15
Mediterranea
Climb the cracked rib rightwards then the open groove to the final steepening. Swim up this to a tough exit.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
5c
16
Bascu Shunt Top 50
Take the steep wall straight into the base of the groove then cross the right wall to a tricky and exposed finish.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a+
17
Marta
From the huge flake climb the desperate thin wall to the tufa and then the bulges right then left to a lower-off above.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a
18
Cargol Treu Banya
The right-hand side of the smooth wall has a tricky off balance move to get going then power through the bulges above a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
19
Zoe 1
The long groove that bounds the right edge of the steeper rock has little fixed gear - pity! Take a rack.
1 user comment
 5c
20
Preludi d' Andromeda
The wall to the right of the groove is climbed to ledges (possible lower-off, 6a+ to here) then continue up the steeper final...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b
21
Zoe 2
From the fallen block climb the open groove trending right to ledges, the uppermost of which has lower-off. Finish up the short...
 
1 Stars
5c
22
Raticulin
From the block climb slightly rightwards via cracks and grooves to a lower of on the ledge as for Zoe 2.
 
1 Stars
5a
23
Lorelei
From a cleaned area climb the slabby wall rightwards ino a shallow groove and follow this to a lower-off.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5c
24
Zoe 3
Pull over the overlap and climb the broad rounded rib on super rock to a lower-off in the wall above.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5a
25
Plana
The twisting groove is a good line though it is polished. The steep upper section is interesting at the grade!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5a
26
Ja No es Normal
The crack and steep rib just right of thegroove followed by the huge flake - a good pitch.
 
1 Stars
4c
27
Normal
Trend right up easy rock then climb the juggy headwall direct or sneak off left - naughty!
 
1 Stars
4a
28
Per Comencar
The left-hand line on the short buttress. trending rightwards.
 
1 Stars
3
29
La de Despres
The central line on good rock. Avoiding the groove just right is tricky.
 3
30
La Toquis l'Aresta
The last route on the cliff round to the right.
 3
  • Latest Comments

    For PENYA GINESTA

    Plana
    "Upper section closer to 6a and the well spaced bolts can make for a bit of a sho..." 11/Jun

    Fabulas Humanas
    "Re-equipped." 02/Nov

    Bascu Shunt
    "Does pretty much what it says. Lower wall is interesting, slab is pleasant, fini..." 02/Mar top50

    Zoe 1
    "This is a Trad route!" 04/Jan

    Pepi 1
    "Follow the arrows to half height,instead of traversing left(large arrow)go right..." 28/Dec

    Pedro
    "It´s 5+/6a, steep and sustained. Pumpy as hell." 05/Nov

    Pedro
    "This route is an 5+ and is about 22 m long" 15/Oct

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