Pas de la Mala Dona Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
20 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

A fine 'pseudo-sea cliff' in a most unusual setting. The base of the main crag is the roof of a tunnel built to protect the railway from falling rocks (and falling climbers perhaps?). The flat gravel base is a great spot for belaying, though care is required as the edge shelves away and it is a long drop to the rocks and the sea. Also access is a little tricky and exposed on one short stretch so this is not an ideal venue for children or the timid.
Approach - Follow the coast road south along the coast to Castelldefels but do not take the dual carriage way as it heads into the Tunnels de Garraf (toll). Instead bear right on to the old coast (C246) road and follow this as it weaves its way south towards Sitges. After 4.5 km, past some huge quarries it heads inland then rises out towards the sea, there is limited parking is on the tip of the bend. Cross the wall and take the path past the heli-pad as it descends to a col (small rubbish-filled hole). Double back and follow the path steeply to a short exposed section right above the railway line - care required.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Shosho Nut
The short pocketed wall on the left - polished!
2 user comments
 
Crimpy
6a+
2
La Competition n'est pas Fini
The shallow groove and wall just right - polished.
1 user comment
 6a+
3
Monas al Salon
The brown pocketed wall - polished and hard!
1 user comment
 
Technical
6a
4
Boulevard Rosa
The short groove then layback the edge of the hollow - or if you are pumped, pull into it and get walking! Polished.
 
Pumpy
6a
5
Los Chicos no Lloran
The short fierce wall just right of the groove.
 
Technical
6b
6
La Riena de Burdel
The discontinuous crack system is hard work.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
7
Si Los TIM Levantaran
The thin groove just right, on spaced pockets.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
8
Recepta Fanatica
The left-hand side of the smooth wall is especially tough.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
9
Dulces Pasiones
The right-hand side of the wall is (quite) a bit easier.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a
10
Mala Dona
Start round the arete and climb to the bulges, swing left and continue up the left-hand side of the bulging arete.
 
Strong
6a+
11
Bona Dona
The groove is steeper than it looks to a rest on the left. Finish even more steeply!!
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
12
Port de Gavines
The wall between the two grooves has some interesting moves and a tricky crucial bulge.
 6b
13
Voy Como una Moto
Monkey out left along the ladder of jugs then step back right and climb the bulging wall.
 
Pumpy
6a+
14
Neska Polita
The left-hand side of the black bulging wall.
2 user comments
 
Strong
7a+
15
HAL 9000
...and the centre of the wall.
1 user comment
 
Strong
7b
16
Matador
The hanging arete on the right is juggy but hard work.
1 user comment
 
Strong
6b
17
Barceloneta
Start up Tutti Colori then head out left up easier rock (stance). Trend back right along the ledge system and climb the groove...
 4c
18
Tutti Coloi
The long Gogarth-like groove has a short sharp finale.
 
1 Stars
6b
19
La Bauma
The oddity. Climb Tutti Colori but then trend right to a ledge system (possible stance). Continue right into a steep groove...
2 user comments
 5c
20
Sangre de Toro
The left-hand side of the wall gives a good sustained pitch passing a couple of big pockets. Lower off or continue up:
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
21
Mediterrani
The left arete of the upper face is a pumpy extension.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
22
Mare Nostrum
The left-hand side of the face offers quality pocket pulling, sustained and worthwhile.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c
23
Simply Extrem
The centre of the buttress is one of the toughest here.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
24
Pesadilla
Tackle the right-hand arete initially on the left, then the right and finally back leftwards to finish.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6c
25
Carnestoites
The groove set in the left arete of the face is a better pitch then it looks - and steeper.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a
26
Jocs d'Aigua
The left-hand arete of the pillar is steady to a grasping finish complete with tough clip!
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
6b
27
La Curvas de mi Chica
A great climb, steep and powerful but on good holds throughout. There is always a 'biffo' when you need one.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
28
Bonsai
The right-hand side of the tower is another good one - strenuous and sustained to the same lower-off. The last line before the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
29
El Mono con Navaja
The groove that bounds the right-hand side of the tower is steep for the grade, especially passing the bulge.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
30
Sanchez-Reinald
Start up El Mono but break right up the groove. Old gear.
 5c
31
Friqui de Mar
A worthwhile pitch up the steep slab just to the right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
32
La nombre de la rosa
The line up the right-hand side of the slab has the option of a mid height lower-off, its 6a to this.
 
Technical
Crimpy
6b
33
Aniversario
The original route of the cliff up the long crack just to the left of the descent route. The 1st two pitches (or one...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
34
Variente
Good climb - crap name! The steep sustained face beyond the wide crack of Aniversario.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
35
Pico pato
A tiny pitch just above the pont where the path arrives at the base of the cliff. Apparently the climb continues upwards at...
 
Technical
6c
36
Sabadell
The left-hand line avoids the steepest rock.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a
37
Ratos de Cama
Much steeper work through the fringe of tufas.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
38
Syouxie
Start at the painted name, steep and impressive.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
39
Puja la Febre
A mega pitch up the steepest smoothest part of the face.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
40
Les Garres del Garraf
A steep central line that is well-chalked.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
41
Mossa
Start at the name, the right-hand fork is impressive and realtively straightforward up to the steepening. Above that is a...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
42
l'Axamuro
The last line before the rock deteriorates and climbing the rib to the left of a prominent wizzen tree growing from the rock.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
  • Latest Comments

    For PAS DE LA MALA DONA

    Sangre de Toro
    "A lovely route with one pumpy section low down." 18/Oct

    Mare Nostrum
    "just good fun!!" 19/Apr

    Aniversario
    "There is confusion between this (p1) and the next route - there now seem to be t..." 02/Mar

    Shosho Nut
    "The first 10 routes are all very polished.." 26/Nov

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