The Pinnacle

Adjacent Areas
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The unmistakable square bulk of Froggatt Pinnacle is home to one great classic and a set of only slightly less worthy offerings. Most of the harder routes are of a bouldery nature and don't reach the summit. For the other routes that do go all the way, the summit is equipped with a chunky abseil ring. Before the mid-1980s the usual escape from the summit involved a short abseil from the thread/hole on Pinnacle Face. An experienced climber from the Southwest did Valkyrie and assumed the jump from the summit to the main edge (Cook's Leap) was the normal way off. Once he was out of plaster he returned with a drill, a big bolt, a Primus stove and some lead, and placed the ugly lump of iron that is still used for the descent.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Valkyrie Top 50
A fine historic HVS which features two contrasting pitches, a mid-height stance and a belay on a proper summit.1) 5a, 10m....
21 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS
2
Narcissus II
Not a second pitch to Narcissus but a continuation above Valkyrie's start. Pull over and aim for the flared crack that leads to...
 
1 Stars
E5
3
Pinnacle Traverse
Start low and work your way up and across a flake to the arete. Turn this and then pull up to reverse the Oedipus traverse.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
f7A+
4
Neon Dust
The wall between the crack and arete is usually just done as a boulder problem before scuttling off left to the Valkyrie crack....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
f7C+
5
Narcissus
The fine arete is increasingly taxing, and stays hard all the way. Usually now climbed above pads at f7A.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E6
6
The Mint 400
Boulder up the wall to gain the break of Oedipus - f7B+ to here. Next launch up the seemingly holdless wall above to gain the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6
7
Oedipus Ring Your Mother
A taxing traverse along the sloping finger-break, gains a shallow flake - a popular f6B to here. A committing long stretch and...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E4
8
Pinnacle Arete
Neglected but good. From the gully traverse left along the lowest break, pass the arete and pull up to gain a ledge. Climb the...
 
1 Stars
Loose
E2
9
Birthday
A direct finish to Pinnacle Arete from the ledge on the arete.
 
1 Stars
E3
10
Chapman's Crack
Traverse boldly left above the gully in a position of some exposure to reach and climb the short crack. The easiest way up the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
11
Route One
The short northeast arete yields to a tough mantelshelf. An impressive route for its day and a viable way down for Valkyrie...
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
12
Pinnacle Face
From the top of the gully below the back arete, teeter right along sloping ledges (spotter advised) then climb the wall passing...
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
13
My Newt
The short and exposed arete on the right.
 E1
14
Truly Pathetic
The thin right-trending crack. A bit better than the name suggests.
 
Technical
HVS
15
Diamond Crack
The slanting crack gives a fine exercise in jamming - steep, strenuous and well protected, it was graded VD for many years. A...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS
16
Corner Crack
A wide awkward start leads to easier things. Not great!
 
Graunchy
Loose
VD
  • Latest Comments

    For FROGGATT

    Horizontal Pleasure
    "Changed from E5 6b to E5 6b *, no votes" 23/Mar

    Trapeze
    "Lovely!" 16/May

    Sunset Crack
    "Didn't feel like a 4c to me - this was my first lead of anything above VDiff and..." 09/Dec

    Janker's Groove
    "Did the direct start as a sit start, as in the Bouldering guide recommended and ..." 09/Jun

    Downhill Racer
    "Quality, pretty on/off move low down and then not too much trouble above that. J..." 19/May

    Armageddon
    "Shouldnt this be spelt Armageddon (1 'g', 2 'd's, as in BMC guide and the Ston..." 22/Jan

    Three Pebble Slab
    "The protection for the crux is great, fits a size 3 (i think) 4CU like a glove. ..." 29/Jan

    Downes' Crack
    "Needs young arms!" 26/Nov

    Terrace Crack
    "Finished a warm, sunny end of September day with this and loved it. Consistent ..." 01/Oct

    Great Slab
    "I have some sympathy with John Yates. If the anti top rope lobby carries on seco..." 11/Jul top50

    Valkyrie
    "I found the crack harder than Chequers, worse even Terrazza? There are only a c..." 01/Jun top50

    Oedipus Ring Your Mother
    "not 6b, prob hard 5c. Awesome climbing though." 12/May

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