Kalydna

Adjacent Areas
< Ivory Tower  |  Iannis >

Sport
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill
Windy

A magnificent wall with many excellent and long climbs that tend to be popular. The routes here can be soapy in calm humid weather and are at their best on dry breezy days.
Conditions The crag faces west and offers shade until early afternoon. It can got hot here in the evenings and the sunsets are always spectacular. The routes dry quickly after rain and it can be windy up here.
Approach - The crag is roughly halfway between the Grande Grotta and the Poets approaches. Either park by the Mermaid Statue - almost opposite the Hotel Philoxena. The track starts here and runs up to a gate then a prominent olive tree before heading out left and toiling up the scree path to the welcoming shade and the huge jutting buttress just left of Grande Grotta. Scramble out right along a vague path until below the wall. Alternatively take the path that starts up a short steep road beside the blue Lambrino Apts and runs up the slope. Once above the fence trend diagonally left to the base of the wall.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mitra
1) 7a, 2) 7c, 3) 7a. A three pitch route that sees little attention.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
2
Fragment
1) 5c, 2) 6c. An old and neglected line.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6c
3
Yebus
A little adventure with no very hard moves but feels quite bold and has a bit of everything - fantastic! The crux is at the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
6c+
4
Fran-Fran
The leftward-curving feature contains two entertaining (i.e. technical) sections.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
5
Tassir
A tricky traverse and hard-to-read crux near the top.
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
6
Calida
Sustained up to the final bit where it gets thin. Tricky to on-site and high in the grade but a brilliant route.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
7
Sickle
A long and varied pitch passing the curving overhang.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
8
Uschana
A fine pitch though the last 5m are polished and slippery.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
6c
9
Aurora
A long ramble leads to three hard bouldery sections.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c+
10
Theodora
An excellent face route with sustained moves on small holds.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
11
Kaly Nikhla
A nice dance up small tufas and blobs. A bit condition dependant like many round here.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
12
Ixion
A great line, sustained and on superb rock.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
13
Extra
Worthwhile though with a reachy polished crux and a hard move to the chains.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
6a+
14
Nickel
A classic, sustained and with a tough finish if climbed direct. A short detour out left and back is bolder but easier.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
15
Late Evening Light
The start is ledgy but it improves with height to a nice finish.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
16
Radom
The left-most line above an easy arete is a good long pitch which improves with height. Low in the grade.
 
2 Stars
6b+
17
Hype
A harder right-hand finish to Radom.
 
2 Stars
7b
18
Spark
Very sharp rock on this one - don't fall!
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b
19
Hot Fuel
Decent wall climbing with some technical moves.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
20
Blevita
A sharp grey slab and bulge lead to an interesting groove.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
21
Avra
Sharp and a bit snappy.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a
22
Mami au Grigri
A very sharp wall.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6c
23
Miss Latex
Long and sharp with a nice little tufa section at the end.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
24
Bigboo
The pocketed steep wall with good climbing in and out of the various large holes. The belay may be in a poor state.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
7a
25
Tassir Extension
The extension (45m) is a lot less popular.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
26
Sickle Extension
A short and intense addition up the blunt red rib.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b
27
Uschana Extension
A good but neglected (too hard!) extension.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
28
Golden Oriole
A popular route with some fine climbing but feels rather squeezed in.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
29
Aurora Part 1
A great pitch with some spicy run-outs and a high crux. Some of the bolts are looking rusty.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b
30
Kaly Nikhla Extension
A very hard boulder at half height leads to a superb bridging finish.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b
31
To Have and Not to Be
A short but worthwhile extension to Ixion. The full extension will be around 9a.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
32
Unique
A second short but worthwhile extension to Ixion heading righwards. The full extension will be around 9a.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
33
The Mole that Cram Full
The oddly named and desperate extension.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
34
Triste Saccage
Hard and with tough moves past the lip.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8c
35
Fake Friends
Follow the right wall of the cave and the edge of the arch.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8b+
36
Trous dans l'Air
A right-hand start and finish to Fake Friends.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8b
37
L'Air d'un Trou
A fierce bouldery line trending left up the streaked wall.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8b
38
J'ai du Temps Donc
Aim for the hanging groove and gain it with difficulty.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
7b+
39
Keep Going
Steep bouldery bulges.
 
3 Stars
Technical
8b
40
Life Style
A superb line but with a short, bouldery crux bulge low down and some suspect rock high up.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Loose
7b
41
Kaly Câlins
A quality pitch that can be extended into Life Style at 6c+ though stripping the route becomes an issue.
 
3 Stars
6c
42
Mamy Nova
An excellent bridging groove - steady for the grade if it is your style. Reaching the lower-off is hard once again.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
43
Spacy
The cruxy line line left of the cave.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
44
Dart
A long pitch on the extreme right. Good positions but not the best rock quality.
 
2 Stars
Loose
6b
  • Latest Comments

    For KALYDNA AREA

    Aurora
    "awesome route. The last move to the chain, off a spicy mono, is extremely memor..." 26/Apr

    Aurora
    "The 7a+ variant is well worth doing and a bit runout in places (also watch out f..." 15/Apr

    Ixion
    "Another great pitch. Easier than Nickel. I thought 7a was sufficient." 19/Oct

    Sickle
    "nicer then one would expect from the decription/rating" 18/Oct

    Late Evening Light
    "Not as good as Extra." 08/Oct

    Yebus
    "A good long pitch with the crux in the last 5 metres. Superb climbing at 6b up t..." 02/Jul

    Tassir
    "This is a brilliant route" 30/Jun

    Tufa King Pumped
    "Easy 7b+. Dry this time! Route to left is Racomelo (bolted in Nov 07); unclimbed..." 02/Jun

    Tassir
    "absolument superbe" 09/Apr

    Ixion
    "Given 7b in the local guide, but like Neal says the route is more like soft 7a+...." 15/Oct

    Ixion
    "Really fun climbing but fealt more like 7a/7a+" 12/Oct

    Tufa King Pumped
    "Awesome route. Lots of varied styles of climbing. Skip the 5 metre extension tho..." 10/Oct

    Nickel
    "Brilliant pitch. Tufa climbing at its best with a pockety crux right at the top...." 11/Jun

    O Dragonian Devil
    "Has been flashed now, by Ethan Pringle." 02/Nov

    Tufa King Pumped
    "Damp and soapy again. Cruel moves off steep but easy tufa onto crimps just when ..." 29/Oct

    Uschana
    "A delightful pitch!" 19/Oct

    O Dragonian Devil
    "karin Kavoussi did this route (mayby first woman ? ) at 23.9.2006. Very fantasti..." 30/Sep

    O Dragonian Devil
    "After a reachy 7c+/8a section and an almost-ok rest, follows a very tricky bould..." 02/Jul

    Kaly Nikhla
    "First pitch is a 3 star 6b in its own right." 19/May

    Late Evening Light
    "Any proposed grades on these new routes?" 15/Mar

    Late Evening Light
    "Open by Boris Girardin, Claude and Yves Remy, March 2005" 11/Mar

    O Dragonian Devil
    "Silvain Millet did it on his third go in dec 2005 and confirm at 8b+. Really bou..." 16/Jan

    Themelina
    "(See route 7) Both Sevasti and Themelina lie on the (relatively!) steep tufa wa..." 30/Oct

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