Iannis

Adjacent Areas
< Kalydna  |  None >

Sport
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

A small but quite popular sector based around a conspicuous triangular cave. The routes on the right wall of the cave are the most popular ones. The routes are very photogenic with Telendos (and often a sunset) in the background
Conditions The crag faces west and offers shade until early afternoon, a little longer in the cave. It can get hot here in the evenings and sunsets are always spectacular. The routes dry quickly after rain though the tufas will weep after wet weather.
Approach - The crag is best reached by the Poets Approach. Take the path that starts up a short steep road beside the blue Lambrino Apts and runs up the slope Once above the fence trend diagonally left to the base of the wall. 15 minutes
Alternatively park by or opposite the Mermaid Statue - almost opposite the Hotel Philoxena. The track starts here and runs up to a gate then a prominent olive tree before heading out left and toiling up the scree path to the welcoming shade and the huge jutting buttress just left of Grande Grotta. Scramble out right along a vague path until below the wall.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Ypakoe
The sharp wall doesn't get done much.
 
Crimpy
6c+
2
O Dragonian Devil
A very hard route through the steepest part of the roof.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
8b
3
Sevasti
A good a popular power pitch which has a dyno for many. A badly placed bolt makes it harder than it needs to be.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7b+
4
Themelina
A popular power pitch which is often a bit wet.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
7c
5
Tufa King Pumped
Follow the line of blobs and tufa pipes to a crimpy crux in the middle then jugs all the way, brilliant.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7b+
6
Fence Guest
A nice climb with a crucial thin traverse.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
7
Kalotina
A tricky grey wall - nothing special.
 
1 Stars
6a
8
Petantra
Share the first bolt of O Draconian Devil. A powerful start up the tufas is followed by some demanding underclings and a rather...
 
2 Stars
Strong
7a+
9
Super Themelina
This extension is harder and better.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
10
Racomelo
An athletic tufa leads to a stopper section at mid-height. Continue to a very sustained and not to be under-estimated finale.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
11
Attitude
A very hard sequence to read for the on-sight and three small crux sections. A bit polished.
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
7a
12
Attitude Extension
The tough upper section.
 
2 Stars
8a
13
Adolf in the Bay
Meander up the line of well-chalked blobs to a tricky finale. Perhaps the most popular route hereabouts.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
14
Adolf in the Bay Extension
 
3 Stars
7c+
15
Too Mana
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
16
Too Mana Extension
 
2 Stars
8a
17
Verikoko
A great route - steep and pumpy to a high technical crux.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
18
Sens Unique
A nice long route on quality rock right up to the end, where it becomes a bit sharp. Rope drag can be an issue.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a
19
Zagori
A good wandering line on the right-hand side of the wall.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
20
Kalyne
A nice long pitch - all the holds are there but there is a reach or two along the way.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
6b
21
Yaka
A decent climb but sharp and cruxy near the top.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
  • Latest Comments

    For KALYDNA AREA

    Aurora
    "awesome route. The last move to the chain, off a spicy mono, is extremely memor..." 26/Apr

    Aurora
    "The 7a+ variant is well worth doing and a bit runout in places (also watch out f..." 15/Apr

    Ixion
    "Another great pitch. Easier than Nickel. I thought 7a was sufficient." 19/Oct

    Sickle
    "nicer then one would expect from the decription/rating" 18/Oct

    Late Evening Light
    "Not as good as Extra." 08/Oct

    Yebus
    "A good long pitch with the crux in the last 5 metres. Superb climbing at 6b up t..." 02/Jul

    Tassir
    "This is a brilliant route" 30/Jun

    Tufa King Pumped
    "Easy 7b+. Dry this time! Route to left is Racomelo (bolted in Nov 07); unclimbed..." 02/Jun

    Tassir
    "absolument superbe" 09/Apr

    Ixion
    "Given 7b in the local guide, but like Neal says the route is more like soft 7a+...." 15/Oct

    Ixion
    "Really fun climbing but fealt more like 7a/7a+" 12/Oct

    Tufa King Pumped
    "Awesome route. Lots of varied styles of climbing. Skip the 5 metre extension tho..." 10/Oct

    Nickel
    "Brilliant pitch. Tufa climbing at its best with a pockety crux right at the top...." 11/Jun

    O Dragonian Devil
    "Has been flashed now, by Ethan Pringle." 02/Nov

    Tufa King Pumped
    "Damp and soapy again. Cruel moves off steep but easy tufa onto crimps just when ..." 29/Oct

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