Ourania

Adjacent Areas
< Hump Piste  |  Symplegades - West Wall >

Sport
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill
Windy

An imposing wide wall and a steep cave that between them don't see much action despite some decent routes and the usual great views of Telendos. It gets afternoon sun, though the cave routes keep the shade later into the day.
Approach - Drive towards Pothia and at the top of the Myrties bends turn left (towards Kamari). Keep an eye out for painted arrows/words pointing "to climbing routes". The second of these is a left turn up a steep lane which rises then turns sharp left - the best place for parking cars, though there isn't a lot of room. Scooterist can continue upwards, taking a right fork and round some bends to parking by a wire gate. DON'T BLOCK any access routes. Go through the gate and up the track to a higher house, through a gate on the left then up a good path towards the canyon. Keep an eye out for a minor path that heads into the valley in front of you - the crags are reached by a short scramble up right.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Bouc et Mystere
The left-hand line on the crag, starting from a small bay and heading through the bulges.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
2
Katifellx
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
3
Zickenschule
From the red name, climb the sharp bulges and tricky groove.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
4
Mystere et boule de gomme
Start as for Zickenschule but follow the ramp right then climb a short steep wall to a long shrubby groove.
 
1 Stars
5c
5
Klettern Paradise
The first of three fine, sustained, long technical pitches with glue-in bolts.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
6
Stranger in Paradise
A brilliant pitch passing right of the roofs. Start at the faded white name.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
7
Paradis Artificial
The right-hand one of this fine trio.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
8
Olymbiacos
Good pocket climbing with a tough crux wall and sharp finish. Spaced bolts where the climbing is easier. Start at a faded white...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6c
9
Tufa's story
Climb the slab into the big leaning groove.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
10
Aquarelle
Steady climbing leads to a high crux.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a
11
Terra Incognita
The tough leaning groove in the back left corner is the first route in the big cave.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
12
Ourania
The tough wall to a high stopper crux.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
8a
13
Star Wars
Good moves and climbing despite the look of the rock.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Loose
7c
14
Facetelendos
The rib an bulges on the right side of the cave - a fine pitch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
15
Sponge Beach
The wall.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7b+
16
Diedre Oublie
The long clean groove was indeed initally overlooked and has thin and unobvious moves at half-height.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
17
Haralampos
A long pitch though the difficulties are concentrated in the short steep section.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
18
Farapopoulos
A short and tricky hard section.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
19
Son Venthous des Windes
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a
20
Grenzpfeiler
A two pitch outing up the long ridge - tricky to get to and rarely repeated.
 
2 Stars
Loose
7a
21
Pet
The first of six easier routes on the slabby apron.
 
1 Stars
Loose
5b
22
Fact
The first bolt is shared with Act. Finish in the cave.
 
1 Stars
Loose
5b
23
Act
A fingery grey wall is the crux.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Loose
6a+
24
Fun
The right-hand line off the low ledge.
 
1 Stars
Loose
5c
25
Ego
Start for the name on a higher ledge.
 
1 Stars
Loose
5c
26
Stone Bakery
Up the slab and pillar.
 
1 Stars
5b
27
Captain Caveman
Good holds and lots of undercuts lead to a high crux.
 
3 Stars
Strong
6c+
28
Pyrsos
A route out right somewhere close to Symplegades.
 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For SYMPLEGADES AREA

    Tufa's story
    "a jam at its grade" 12/Dec

    Katsaplias
    "Probably the easiest of the 6c+s on this wall but very good moves." 19/Oct

    Ermix
    "This is a great 7a with an interesting and intricate crux sequence only marred b..." 19/Oct

    Climber's Nest
    "Found the bolts to be ok. Ropedrag." 04/Oct

    Bubuki
    ""Spoilt by poorly placed lower off"?! That last move and forced traver..." 29/Sep

    Climber's Nest
    "Now has a very good extension at 6b+" 09/Jun

    Skorpios
    "a little tricky on the route finding but some great climbing with a couple of go..." 30/Sep

    Vasilis
    "Definately worth 2 stars at least if only for not being a boring grey slab at th..." 28/Sep

    Igel
    "Possibly 7a if you wear blinkers and follow the line of bolts without deviation...." 11/Jun

    Homo sapiens
    "Agree - one of the best, really varied and technical." 18/Nov

    Anemodarmeni
    "Couple of tricky moves make this a respectable 6A" 23/Oct

    K.V.R.
    "Great route, space walking at the top." 05/Oct

    Iason
    "NIce route, but a little bit tricky." 03/Jun

    Mike's Bikes
    "strangly balancy climbing with some fragile rock still around - not what we expe..." 14/Nov

    Skorpios
    "Not one of the better routes here" 05/Nov

    K.V.R.
    "spectacular and pumpy ..." 13/Oct

    Octana
    "I love cracks, but I prefer granite which can be jammed. Fingerjam Octana and ki..." 31/Jul

    Octana
    "dont get the above comment its totally classic and quite unusual for Kalymnos 6..." 11/Jul

    Vasilis
    "Not worth two stars? I think three stars. I think this is fair at 5+ - hardly ..." 07/Jul

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