Adjacent Areas
< Upper Crag | Sector Waikiki >
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The Main Crag possesses some of the best and most popular climbing at Valldemossa. It consists of a fine buttress with a number of middle-grade wall-climbs, and one spectacular roof. Most of the climbing can be viewed comfortably from the wall by the side of the road from where you can warn your mate lowering from the roof that he/she is about to be whisked away by a speeding van. Most of the routes on the Main Crag are technical and fingery whilst a couple of the lines on the right are, in contrast, pretty butch. Even though the routes are very good, many visitors fail to realise that there is much more climbing available and a wander up to sample the other walls and buttresses is a must. Guidebook page 86.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Street Ball (Left Edge) 21m. The middle of the not-so-good rock. Take care with the rope over the top roof edge. 1 user comment | 6b | |
2 |
Kiko 23m. The edge of the good rock. | 1 Stars | 6b |
3 |
Scooped Runnel 23m. The scooped runnel climbed direct. | 1 Stars | 6b |
4 |
Project 21m. A grade of 6b+ once appeared for this route. Many years after this, it is still not clear if it has ever been climbed. | ?? | |
5 |
Palmolive 23m. The left-hand finish to Intrepido gives superb climbing with a short technical sequence. Low in the grade. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
6 |
Intrépido 22m. An excellent route interrupted by a grassy bit in the middle. The finish is exciting, the start is the crux. | 2 Stars Technical | 6c |
7 |
Short Crack 10m. The short crack is hard. 2 user comments | Technical | 7a |
8 |
Vía des clau This line has had its gear upgraded. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | 6b |
9 |
El jubilado Follow the natural line rightwards across the crag on the bolts of other routes, then climb direct to the lower-off on Pepa.... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | 5 |
10 |
Suphi Top 50 A very good route through the crozzly holes. The upper wall looks unlikely but there are holds. 5 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | 6a |
11 |
Fito A technical start proves very frustrating. Above this the bolts are spaced and the final moves can prove to be an obstacle to... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery | 6b+ |
12 |
Jubilado Direct Climb direct up to the groove on El jubilado. New staples. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6b |
13 |
Pepa Technical climbing up the steep slab right of the groove. 3 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | 6a+ |
14 |
Pepino The right-hand branch to Pepa. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6b+ |
15 |
Leaning Arete A newer line that looks to be very thin and technical. | ?? | |
16 |
Sostre den burotet Top 50 The juggy roof is superb. Save a bit for the last heave. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6c+ |
17 |
Sostre Direct A hard boulder problem start. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Strong | 7a+ |
18 |
Dali Worthwhile climbing in an atmospheric position, especially if there are cars on the road. Pay close attention to the traffic. 8 user comments | 2 Stars | 5+ |
