Main Crag

Adjacent Areas
< Upper Crag  |  Sector Waikiki >

Sport
Afternoon sun
Roadside
0 mins

0


The Main Crag possesses some of the best and most popular climbing at Valldemossa. It consists of a fine buttress with a number of middle-grade wall-climbs, and one spectacular roof. Most of the climbing can be viewed comfortably from the wall by the side of the road from where you can warn your mate lowering from the roof that he/she is about to be whisked away by a speeding van. Most of the routes on the Main Crag are technical and fingery whilst a couple of the lines on the right are, in contrast, pretty butch. Even though the routes are very good, many visitors fail to realise that there is much more climbing available and a wander up to sample the other walls and buttresses is a must. Guidebook page 86.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Street Ball (Left Edge)
21m. The middle of the not-so-good rock. Take care with the rope over the top roof edge.
1 user comment
 6b
2
Kiko
23m. The edge of the good rock.
 
1 Stars
6b
3
Scooped Runnel
23m. The scooped runnel climbed direct.
 
1 Stars
6b
4
Project
21m. A grade of 6b+ once appeared for this route. Many years after this, it is still not clear if it has ever been climbed.
 ??
5
Palmolive
23m. The left-hand finish to Intrepido gives superb climbing with a short technical sequence. Low in the grade.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
6
Intrépido
22m. An excellent route interrupted by a grassy bit in the middle. The finish is exciting, the start is the crux.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
7
Short Crack
10m. The short crack is hard.
2 user comments
 
Technical
7a
8
Vía des clau
This line has had its gear upgraded.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
9
El jubilado
Follow the natural line rightwards across the crag on the bolts of other routes, then climb direct to the lower-off on Pepa....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
5
10
Suphi Top 50
A very good route through the crozzly holes. The upper wall looks unlikely but there are holds.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a
11
Fito
A technical start proves very frustrating. Above this the bolts are spaced and the final moves can prove to be an obstacle to...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
6b+
12
Jubilado Direct
Climb direct up to the groove on El jubilado. New staples.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
13
Pepa
Technical climbing up the steep slab right of the groove.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
14
Pepino
The right-hand branch to Pepa.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
15
Leaning Arete
A newer line that looks to be very thin and technical.
 ??
16
Sostre den burotet Top 50
The juggy roof is superb. Save a bit for the last heave.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
17
Sostre Direct
A hard boulder problem start.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a+
18
Dali
Worthwhile climbing in an atmospheric position, especially if there are cars on the road. Pay close attention to the traffic.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
5+