Main Crag

Adjacent Areas
< Upper Crag  |  Sector Waikiki >

Sport
Afternoon sun
0 mins
Roadside

The Main Crag possesses some of the best and most popular climbing at Valldemossa. It consists of a fine buttress with a number of middle-grade wall-climbs, and one spectacular roof. Most of the climbing can be viewed comfortably from the wall by the side of the road from where you can warn your mate lowering from the roof that he/she is about to be whisked away by a speeding van. Most of the routes on the Main Crag are technical and fingery whilst a couple of the lines on the right are, in contrast, pretty butch. Even though the routes are very good, many visitors fail to realise that there is much more climbing available and a wander up to sample the other walls and buttresses is a must.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
New line
The steepening wall on new bolts.
 
3 Stars
??
2
Left Edge
The middle of the not-so-good rock on glue-in bolts. Take care with the rope over the top roof edge.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
6b
3
Wall and Overhang
A new route that has two distinct cruxes. Climb the technical wall to good holds that lead to a rest. Finish left through the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
4
Kiko
The edge of the good rock. The initial bolt hanger is absent.
 
1 Stars
6b
5
Scooped Runnel
The scooped runnel climbed direct.
 
1 Stars
6b
6
Project
The tall, orange wall looks to be very thin.
1 user comment
 7c
7
Palmolive
The left-hand finish to Intrepido gives superb climbing that features a short technical sequence. Low in the grade.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
8
Intrépido
An excellent route interrupted by a grassy bit in the middle. The finish is exciting, though the start is the crux.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
9
Something
The line of staples via a short groove and wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
10
Vía des clau
This line has had its gear upgraded.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
11
El jubilado
Follow the natural line rightwards across the crag on the bolts of other routes, then climb direct to the lower-off on Pepa....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
5a
12
Suphi Top 50
A very good route through the crozzly holes. The upper wall looks unlikely but there are holds.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a
13
Fito
A technical start proves very frustrating. Above this the bolts are spaced and the final moves can prove to be an obstacle to...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
6b+
14
Jubilado Direct
Climb direct up to the groove on El jubilado. New staples.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
15
Pepa
Technical climbing up the steep slab right of the groove.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
16
Pepino
The right-hand branch to Pepa.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
17
Leaning Arete
A newer line that looks to be very thin and technical.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
7b+
18
Sostre den burotet Top 50
The juggy roof is superb. Save a bit for the last heave.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
19
Sostre Direct
A hard boulder problem start.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a+
20
Dali
Worthwhile climbing in an atmospheric position, especially if there are cars on the road. Pay close attention to the traffic.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
5c