Upper Crag

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Main Crag >

Sport
No sun
2 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

In complete contrast to Roadside Buttress and Main Crag, the Upper Crag is strangely isolated from the hullabaloo below. The routes here vary from slightly pointless filler-ins to good long wall climbs on Verdon-esque rock.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Scoop Left
Climb the rib left of the big scoop then swing right over the top across the thin wall.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
2
Rusty
Rusty bolts on the steep pillar.
 
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
3
Bulging Wall
The long bulging wall.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
4
Central Flake
The central flake-line is good. It can be continued at 5c.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
5
Vall-de-mega Top 50
Fine climbing up the steep wall. One of the best at the crag.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
6
Wall Eliminate
Good climbing but escapable where it matters.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
7
Chimenea
Good climbing up the central gully/chimney. Be careful with blocks at the top.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
5c
8
Central Right
A fine route (to the first lower-off) with some tricky moves just right of the central gully. There are two lower-offs - lower...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
9
Spanky
An excellent pitch on great rock.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a
10
Lanky
Another quality climb starting up an area of scoops and flutings. There is a belay at 25m but you can continue to the top.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
6a
11
Average
Climb straight up the wall to a difficult finish up and over a bulge. Good rock.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
12
Shorty
A good long route up the right-hand edge of the wall. It can be split at a belay at 30m. The full route is 40m.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a
13
Arroz con leche
A very poor route with a hard move low down.
 7b
14
Circ
Thin wall climbing.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
15
Jarcha
A very poor and escapable route to the left of the cave.
 6c+
16
Why Not
Start up the diagonal crack but branch left.
 6c
17
Diedro y placa
Climb the diagonal crack.
 6c
18
Arista y diedro
A poor eliminate up the rib right of the crack.
 7a+
19
Fisura fina
The very steep crack.
 7b
20
Travesia
The right-hand crack.
 6c
21
Kirsten
Good climbing up the grey slab.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a
22
Kirsten II
A worthwhile pitch up the front of the buttress.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For VALLDEMOSSA

    Average
    "... anyway harder than "Diedro y placa" 6c" 08/Nov

    Lanky
    "Top section of route only seemed to have two small rusty bolts with homemade fol..." 06/Mar

    Sostre den burotet
    "The section below the roof has chalk on everything that could possibly be a hold..." 23/Mar top50

    Left Edge
    "The name of the route is "streetball"" 03/Jan

    Vall-de-mega
    "Steep start then stiff pulls up the overhanging wall to gain a big hold on lip ..." 29/Oct top50

    Suphi
    "very nice, hard for the grade I think it is getting a bit polished... in the day..." 12/Oct top50

    Dali
    "Psicologic route over the cars, in a big hole, and harder than 5+." 11/May

    Kirsten
    "There also seems to be a left and a right hand start. Either what your going for..." 15/Apr

    Sostre den burotet
    "A bit polished, but still an excellent route. There's also a new route to the le..." 27/Apr top50

    Kirsten
    "Hard but nice, partially polished." 06/Dec

    Kirsten II
    "Replaced all the old spits and the anchor on that route. Still a little bit spac..." 09/Nov

    Chimenea
    "Una ruta guapísima con unas vistas geniales. Bastante larga." 21/Jun

    Suphi
    "Stunning route. Very varied." 27/Jan top50

    Average
    "Again another verdonesque french style route : slabby, technical and then a few ..." 17/Dec

    Spanky
    "6a+ for shorties" 06/Dec

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