Gargoyle and Route 1 Buttresses

Adjacent Areas
< The Great Buttress  |  Upper Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
40 mins
Uphill

Gargoyle Buttress features a slab on its left, a crenellated tower in the centre, and a walled-in bivvy cave at its foot. It has a collection of routes of which Stony Faced and Gargoyle Buttress are the pick. The taller buttress to the right is home to a classic VS and some other worthwhile routes in the middle grades. Route 1 is a real gem and would be a polished horror on a more popular cliff. Lancaster Flyby is the best of the rest of the routes here. The prominent overhang remains unclimbed despite having been looked at. Guidebook page 78.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Gargoyle Traverse
20m. Begin up the slab on the left and climb to its top right-hand corner. Traverse right around the buttress, with tricky and...
1 user comment
 S 4a
2
Caveman
12m. Start in the roofed recess on the left side of the buttress. Climb to the roof and escape out left. Follow the easy crack...
1 user comment
 S 4b
3
Dead on a Rival
14m. The arete to the left of the bivvy cave leads to the break, then traverse right into the middle of the wall. Climb...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
4
Woodhouse's Wandering Way
18m. Make bouldery moves up the wall 1.5m right of the arete, using some suspect flakes, then traverse the break left to the...
 E2 5c
5
Stony Faced
14m. Take the left arete of the leaning wall to a slab then the bulging wall left of a crack to a baffling exit.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
6
Gargoyle Buttress
14m. Tough! Climb the corner to a landing on a smelly shelf on the left. Continue on jams to a finish swinging by the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
7
Barker's Got a Sweat On
10m. The wall and right-slanting flakes to a finish up the rib.
 HVS 5a
8
Conservative Tendencies
10m. Climb the lower wall past a large pocket and the awkward right-trending groove above.
 VS 4c
9
Canker
10m. Climb the wall 3m left of the chimney slightly rightwards. Step left onto a ledge then trend right to finish in a bay.
 VD
10
Back Blast
10m. Start just left of the foot of the gully of Wind Tunnel and climb the steep wall rightwards via long reaches. Finish up a...
 
Reachy
HVS 5b
11
Wind Tunnel
14m. The dark chimney often lives up to its name and can be used as a way down by the competent.
 
1 Stars
M
12
Hurricane
14m. Climb the square arete on the right of the chimney, then step left and head up the centre of the steep wall on good holds....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
13
Typhoon
14m. A bit of an eliminate. Climb centrally up the wall between the two aretes (hard for the short) then cross bulges to an...
 
Reachy
Technical
HVS 5b
14
Route 1
16m. Another classic. Start up the outer arete of the buttress and mantel awkwardly onto a ledge. Step left and make a second...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
VS 4c
15
The Shylock Finish
6m. From above the crux on Route 1, follow the lowest break awkwardly out to the left. Finish easily in a dramatic position,...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
VS 5a
16
Blue Velvet
12m. From just right of the arete make hard moves to and up a thin crack, then pull through the bulges to a ledge. Move left...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E1 6a
17
Claw Climb
14m. Start under the roof and trend left to pass it strenuously using a large (loose?) jammed block just above the lip with...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Loose
HVS 5a
18
Talon
14m. Climb the deeply-recessed V-groove until forced to step right onto the rib at the level of the roof. Pull straight up into...
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
19
Lancaster Flyby
14m. Pleasant climbing and low in the grade. Begin just right of the arete and climb the wall to a deep horizontal break (good...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
20
Route 2
14m. Climb onto the large grass ledge on the right then follow the diagonal break out left, strenuously, until past the arete....
 
Technical
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "In reply to Duz Walker, I jammed and swung left to get left knee (it is grit aft..." 10/Sep

    Iltis
    "Mammoth blind reach required to good hold/bucket. I couldn't reach it until I'd ..." 03/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you..." 14/Jun

    Granny Smith
    "Looks horrendous- even at the BMC guide grade of E2 5c. Dont know where the good..." 04/Jun

    Excel
    "it seemed to make sense to solo this cos falling on to gear under the roof would..." 07/Sep

    Cox's Pippin
    "not really reachy, just steep with some very small holds (for an HVS) and not mu..." 07/Aug

    Thread Flintstone
    "Thought the move onto the lip seemed a bit harsh - "where are the holds&quo..." 24/Jul

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