Gargoyle Buttress Area

Adjacent Areas
< The Great Buttress  |  Upper Buttresses >

Trad
No sun
0 mins
Up and Down
Windy

Gargoyle Buttress features a slab on its left, a crenellated tower in the centre, and a walled-in bivvy cave at its foot. It has a collection of routes of which Stony Faced and Gargoyle Buttress are the pick. The taller buttress to the right is home to a classic VS and some other routes in the middle grades. Route 1 is a real gem and would be a polished horror on a more popular cliff. Lancaster Flyby is the best of the rest here.
Approach (see map on page 100) - Drop right off the flagged path where it starts to rise and walk down under all of the rest of the routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Gargoyle Traverse
Begin up the slab on the left and climb to its top right-hand corner. Traverse right around the buttress, with exposed moves...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
2
Caveman
Start in the roofed recess on the left side of the buttress. Climb to the roof and struggle out left. Follow the easy crack...
2 user comments
 
Graunchy
S
3
Dead on a Rival
Neglected. The arete to the left of the bivvy cave leads to the break, then traverse right into the middle of the wall. Climb...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
4
Woodhouse's Wandering Way
Unbalanced. Boulder up the wall 1.5m right of the arete (suspect flakes) then traverse the break to the arete. Climb the slab...
1 user comment
 
Loose
E2
5
Stony Faced
Take the left arete of the leaning wall to a slab then the bulging wall left of a crack to a baffling (heel-hooking?) exit.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E1
6
Gargoyle Buttress
Tough! Climb the corner to a landing on a smelly shelf on the left. Continue on jams to a finish swinging by the gargoyles.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
7
Barker's Got a Sweat On
The wall and right-slanting flakes to a finish over a roof.
1 user comment
 HVS
8
Conservative Tendencies
Climb the lower wall past a large pocket and the awkward right-trending groove above.
1 user comment
 HS
9
Canker
Climb the wall 3m left of the chimney slightly rightwards. Step left onto a ledge then trend right to finish in a bay.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HVD
10
Back Blast
Start just left of the foot of the gully of Wind Tunnel and climb the steep wall rightwards via long reaches. Finish up a short...
1 user comment
 HVS
11
Wind Tunnel
The dark chimney often lives up to its name and is often used as a way down by the competent.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
M
12
Hurricane
Nice moves up the gloomy arete on the right of the chimney, before stepping left and heading up the centre of the steep wall on...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
13
Typhoon
A bit of an eliminate. Climb centrally up the wall between the two aretes (reachy) then cross bulges to an overhang. Mantel...
1 user comment
 
Technical
HVS
14
Route 1
A classic. Start up the outer arete of the buttress and mantel awkwardly onto a ledge. Step left and make a second mantel over...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS
15
The Shylock Finish
From above the crux on Route 1, follow the lowest break awkwardly out to the left. Finish easily in a dramatic position, always...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS
16
Blue Velvet
From just right of the arete make hard moves to and up a thin crack, then pull through the bulges to a ledge. Move left then...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
17
Claw Climb
Start under the roof and trend left to pass it strenuously using a large jammed block just above the lip with care. Once above...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Loose
HVS
18
Talon
Climb the deeply-recessed V-groove until forced to step right onto the rib at the level of the roof. Pull straight up into a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
19
Lancaster Flyby
Pleasant climbing throughout. Begin just right of the arete and climb the wall to a deep horizontal break (good gear). A...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
20
Route 2
Climb onto the large grass ledge on the right then follow the diagonal break out left, it is strenuous and awkward until past...
1 user comment
 
Technical
VS
21
Grindle Crack
The gritty fissure above the back of the ledge.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HVD
22
A'rete Do
The slabby arete is pleasant enough.
1 user comment
 VD
23
Another Flaky Wall
The flaky crack up the wall just right.
1 user comment
 VD