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Afternoon sun
Level
15 minsWindy
One of Curbar’s finest sections with some great classics covering the historical spectrum from Brown’s 1950 tussle of Sorrell’s Sorrow through to the Dawes’ 1986 heart-stopping trip of The End of the Affair. Guidebook page 290.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Black Nix Wall 8m. The technical wall just right of a short open corner, trending right via some thin flakes. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
2 |
Mastiff Wall 8m. Thin cracks are well protected and have good holds. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
3 |
Camel Ticks 10m. A bold little problem up the thin groove and the wall to the left of the bulges tackled by Rat Scabies. | Fluttery | E3 6a |
4 |
Rat Scabies 10m. The delightfully-named centre of the wall has a gruesome stopper mantelshelf move to pass the bulge. | 1 Stars Technical Strong | E3 6b |
5 |
Bulldog Crack 10m. The groove that bounds the wall has a tricky start (loose flake) and a stubborn upper section. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Loose | S 4b |
6 |
John's Arete 10m. A square, jutting arete and wall above are pleasantly technical but not something you would want to fall off. | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5b |
7 |
Derwent Groove 10m. The open corner is awkward towards the top. A left-hand variation is usually cleaner and is a bit easier (HVD). 1 user comment | S 4a | |
8 |
Cool Moon 12m. A bold climb up the thin flakes and sinuous cracks. The hard lower section has no gear but a side-runner in Moon Walk... 10 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E7 6c |
9 |
Moon Walk 12m. One of the finest grit experiences. A tricky start gains a flake in the arete. This leads to a break, which needs packing... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E4 6a |
10 |
Moon Crack 14m. A hard companion to Moon Walk. The bulging crack is a fierce battle but with solid wires to protect. At the top of the... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | E5 6b |
11 |
Crack and Slab 12m. Climb Moon Crack to above its crux then gain the slab above by a wild mantelshelf. Hard smearing and a rounded finish gain... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy Rounded Fluttery | E7 7a |
12 |
Moon Madness 12m. The bulging rock to the right of Moon Crack is unprotected, reachy and the landing is particularly grim. | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Fluttery | E7 6c |
13 |
Sorrell's Sorrow 12m. The superb soaring central crack-line is compelling and hard work. Big gear needed. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
14 |
Mr Softee 16m. Climb the bulges via a crack (hard for the short) to the break then head left past Sorrell's Sorrow to finish up the last... | Reachy Strong | E1 6a |
15 |
The End of the Affair Top 50 14m. The archetypal grit arete and one of Gritstone's greatest hard routes. The climbing is technical and ultra committing with... 11 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E8 6c |
16 |
Amphitheatre Crack 8m. The wide crack in the south-facing wall is hard to enter (high wire in the right rib) then eases rapidly. | 1 Stars Technical | HVD 4a |
17 |
Dirty Sanchez 6m. The shallow groove is a short-lived technical gem. | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
18 |
Glad Tidings 10m. A stubborn crack leads to the ledge. Gain a ramp and finish up left via a thin crack (the old left-hand finish to... | Technical | HVS 5a |
19 |
Gladiator Buttress 10m. Climb the front arete to a big ledge then the crack just left of the arete to a taxing exit - fortunately with good gear. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded | VS 4c |