Moon Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< The Cioch and Tree Wall  |  Apollo Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Level

One of Curbar’s finest sections with some great classics covering the historical spectrum from Brown’s 1950 tussle of Sorrell’s Sorrow through to the Dawes’ 1986 heart-stopping trip of The End of the Affair.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Black Nix Wall
8m. The technical wall just right of a short open corner, trending right via some thin flakes.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
2
Mastiff Wall
8m. Thin cracks are well protected and have good holds.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
3
Camel Ticks
10m. A bold little problem up the thin groove and the wall to the left of the bulges tackled by Rat Scabies.
 
Fluttery
E3 6a
4
Rat Scabies
10m. The delightfully-named centre of the wall has a gruesome stopper mantelshelf move to pass the bulge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E3 6b
5
Bulldog Crack
10m. The groove that bounds the wall has a tricky start (loose flake) and a stubborn upper section.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
S 4b
6
John's Arete
10m. A square, jutting arete and wall above are pleasantly technical but not something you would want to fall off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
7
Derwent Groove
10m. The open corner is awkward towards the top. A left-hand variation is usually cleaner and is a bit easier (HVD).
1 user comment
 S 4a
8
Cool Moon
12m. A bold climb up the thin flakes and sinuous cracks. The hard lower section has no gear but a side-runner in Moon Walk...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
9
Moon Walk
12m. One of the finest grit experiences. A tricky start gains a flake in the arete. This leads to a break, which needs packing...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 6a
10
Moon Crack
14m. A hard companion to Moon Walk. The bulging crack is a fierce battle but with solid wires to protect. At the top of the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
11
Crack and Slab
12m. Climb Moon Crack to above its crux then gain the slab above by a wild mantelshelf. Hard smearing and a rounded finish gain...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
Fluttery
E7 7a
12
Moon Madness
12m. The bulging rock to the right of Moon Crack is unprotected, reachy and the landing is particularly grim.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6c
13
Sorrell's Sorrow
12m. The superb soaring central crack-line is compelling and hard work. Big gear needed.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
14
Mr Softee
16m. Climb the bulges via a crack (hard for the short) to the break then head left past Sorrell's Sorrow to finish up the last...
 
Reachy
Strong
E1 6a
15
The End of the Affair Top 50
14m. The archetypal grit arete and one of Gritstone's greatest hard routes. The climbing is technical and ultra committing with...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E8 6c
16
Amphitheatre Crack
8m. The wide crack in the south-facing wall is hard to enter (high wire in the right rib) then eases rapidly.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVD 4a
17
Dirty Sanchez
6m. The shallow groove is a short-lived technical gem.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
18
Glad Tidings
10m. A stubborn crack leads to the ledge. Gain a ramp and finish up left via a thin crack (the old left-hand finish to...
 
Technical
HVS 5a
19
Gladiator Buttress
10m. Climb the front arete to a big ledge then the crack just left of the arete to a taxing exit - fortunately with good gear.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For CURBAR

    Diet of Worms
    "ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on..." 24/Sep

    Rise of the Robots
    "Haha 6b! Someone needs to lay off the crack pipe." 10/Aug

    Moonshine
    "Amazing that there are no comments for this brillant route. Technical interestin..." 02/Jun

    Rise of the Robots
    "Yes where did this 6b come from? I would go with 5c, but this route is much easi..." 17/Apr

    Finger Distance
    "A brilliant V4/5 with pads. I suppose you could argue that pads make it "to..." 14/Jan

    Honest John
    "Short but worthwhile" 26/Oct

    The Art of White Hat Wearing
    "Landing improved a while back and now a quality, West Side Story-esque, Font 7b+..." 19/Aug

    Soyuz
    "E1 5c. More in keeping with the Curbar grading system." 04/Jul

    Saddy
    "Thought that this is quite a good route. Good line cracks that require quite a b..." 09/Jun

    Saddy
    "I thought it was rather good, for some of the reasons Fiend dislikes it. It was ..." 08/May

    Saddy
    "Your man's right. This route is bloody awful." 04/May

    Potter's Wall
    "Gear is fine at the bottom, and you don't need it at the top........ jugs galore..." 04/May

    Thirst for Glory
    "Sling held in place with wires either side make the middle section protectable b..." 30/Oct

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