Moon Buttress

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One of Curbar's finest sections with some great classics covering the historical spectrum from Brown's 1950 tussle of Sorrell's Sorrow through to the Dawes' 1986 heart-stopping trip of The End of the Affair.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Downhill Gardener
The short, curving arete on its left-hand side.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
f7A+
2
Button Moon
The blunt flake on the wall to the right.
 
2 Stars
f5+
3
Black Nix Wall
The technical wall just right of a short open corner, trending right via some thin flakes.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
4
Mastiff Wall
Thin cracks have good holds and runners after a tricky start.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
5
Camel Ticks
A bold little problem up the thin groove and the wall to the left of the bulges tackled by Rat Scabies.
 E3
6
Rat Scabies
A gruesome stopper mantelshelf move to pass the bulge is f6B. It eases above but take a rope since it is tricky to get off.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E3
7
Bulldog Crack
The groove on the right has a tricky start (loose flake) and a stubborn upper section.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
S
8
John's Arete
A square, jutting arete and wall above are pleasantly technical but not something you would want to fall off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
9
Derwent Groove
The open corner is awkward towards the top. A left-hand variation via a flake is usually cleaner and is a bit easier (HVD).
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
S
10
Cool Moon
A bold climb up the thin flakes and sinuous cracks. The hard lower section has no gear but a side-runner in Moon Walk drops the...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E7
11
Moon Walk
One of the finest grit experiences. A tricky start gains a flake in the arete. This leads to a break, which needs packing with...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
E4
12
Moon Crack
Moon Walk's tough twin. The thin bulging crack gives a fierce battle but with solid wires to protect. At the top of the crack,...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
E5
13
Crack and Slab
Climb Moon Crack to above its crux then gain the slab above by a wild mantelshelf. Hard smearing and a rounded finish might...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E7
14
Moon Madness
The bulging rock to the right of Moon Crack is unprotected, reachy and the landing is particularly grim.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E7
15
Sorrell's Sorrow
The superb soaring central crack-line is compelling and hard work, but less so than you might be expecting. Big gear needed.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
HVS
16
Mr Softee
Climb the bulges via a crack (hard for the short) to the break then head left past Sorrell's Sorrow to finish up the last...
 
Strong
E1
17
The End of the Affair Top 50
The archetypal grit arete and one of grit's greatest hard routes. The climbing is technical and ultra committing with good...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
E8
18
Amphitheatre Crack
The wide crack in the south-facing wall is hard to enter (high wire in the right rib) then eases rapidly.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVD
19
Dirty Sanchez
The shallow groove is a short-lived technical gem.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
20
Glad Tidings
A stubborn crack leads to the ledge. Gain a ramp and finish up left via a thin crack (the old left-hand finish to Gladiator...
 
Technical
HVS
21
Gladiator Buttress
Climb the front arete to a big ledge then the crack just left of the arete to a taxing exit - fortunately with good gear.
3 user comments
 
Technical
VS
22
Hidden Pleasures
The thin cracks in the narrow tower, small wires protect.
 E3
23
Twin Crack
The wide left-hand corner-crack using a subsidiary crack in the left wall. Laybacking the whole thing feels like a reckless HVS...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS
24
Straight Crack
Thrutch the widening right-hand corner-crack; awkward but safe.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
VD
25
Ulysses or Bust
An attractive and unprotected arete. Layaway the right-hand side usually above a rapidly diminishing stack of mats at f7A+....
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E5
26
The Unreachable Star
The thin crack past an extended reach to a rounded exit. f6A+ above pads.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E3
27
Dog-leg Crack
The jamming crack is a midget gem, pity it is so short.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
28
The Dog's Hole
The short wall just right is more involving than first appears.
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6B
  • Latest Comments

    For CURBAR

    The Elder Statesman
    "Changed from 7b * to E7 7b *, no votes" 19/Jun

    Diet of Worms
    "ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on..." 24/Sep

    Rise of the Robots
    "Haha 6b! Someone needs to lay off the crack pipe." 10/Aug

    Moonshine
    "Amazing that there are no comments for this brillant route. Technical interestin..." 02/Jun

    Rise of the Robots
    "Yes where did this 6b come from? I would go with 5c, but this route is much easi..." 17/Apr

    Finger Distance
    "A brilliant V4/5 with pads. I suppose you could argue that pads make it "to..." 14/Jan

    Honest John
    "Short but worthwhile" 26/Oct

    The Art of White Hat Wearing
    "Landing improved a while back and now a quality, West Side Story-esque, Font 7b+..." 19/Aug

    Soyuz
    "E1 5c. More in keeping with the Curbar grading system." 04/Jul

    Saddy
    "Thought that this is quite a good route. Good line cracks that require quite a b..." 09/Jun

    Saddy
    "I thought it was rather good, for some of the reasons Fiend dislikes it. It was ..." 08/May

    Saddy
    "Your man's right. This route is bloody awful." 04/May

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