Apollo Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Level

The main feature of central Curbar is the tall bulk of the Apollo Buttress with its impressive west face jutting out towards the valley. There is also a collection of (slightly) lesser routes to either side of the main tower.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Hidden Pleasures
10m. The thin cracks in the narrow tower, small wires protect.
 
Pumpy
E3 6a
2
Twin Crack
8m. The wide left-hand corner-crack using a subsidiary crack in its left wall - or layback the whole thing, at scary HVS 4c.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
Graunchy
HS 4b
3
Straight Crack
8m. The widening right-hand corner-crack; awkward but safe.
1 user comment
 VD
4
Ulysses or Bust
8m. An attractive and unprotected arete. Layaway to the right until it becomes imperative to swap sides.
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6b
5
The Unreachable Star
8m. The thin crack past an extended reach to a rounded exit.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E3 6a
6
Dog-leg Crack
6m. The jamming crack is a gem, pity it is so short.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVD 4a
7
Buckle's Sister
6m. The left-hand crack is amenable enough.
3 user comments
 HVD 3c
8
Buckle's Brother
6m. The central crack is an exhausting thrash.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Graunchy
HVS 4c
9
Buckle's Crack
6m. The last crack is also a battle unless you dare layback it!
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
Graunchy
HVS 4c
10
Soyuz
10m. The cracks in the north-facing side wall lead to a sloping shelf. Before you pump out, stretch awkwardly right and reach...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
E2 5c
11
Dark Entries
10m. Climb the bulges leftwards to a short crack then head right via long reaches to decent finishing holds.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E4 6a
12
Forbidden Planet
12m. The fine flying arete on the right. Climb through the bulges with difficulty to the crucial roof. Undercut past this then...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
13
Apollo
16m. Start from a stance on the ledge left of the tower. Move out right then head through the imposing bulges via a short crack...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Rounded
E2 5c
14
Two Pitch Route
1) 4c, 14m. Climb the left-hand crack (loose blocks) to ledges then traverse right to pass the arete to a comfortable stance....
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
VS 5a
15
The League of Gentleman
16m. Climb the right edge of the lower wall. Continue over the big roof then climb the big bulges above to join The Beer...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
16
The Beer Hunter
10/16m. Climb the right arete of the buttress via a thin crack to a baffling move on a hidden pocket which gives access the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
17
Combat les Pellicules
6m. Hairy moves up the short arete on the lower buttress, first on the left then on the right.
 
Technical
HVS 5c
18
For the Good of the Cause
6m. Just left of The Big Rocker, a hard start reaches pockets that are followed left to finish as for Combat les Pellicules.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E4 6b
19
The Big Rocker
1) 4c, 14m. Climb a thin crack with woodwork then the jutting rib. Move down and across right to a stance below the...
2 user comments
 VS 4c
20
Rocky Horror Show
6m. The short, technical and exposed arete is a bit of a ...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
21
Body Torque
6m. The centre of the west-facing wall with a hard lower section.
 
Technical
E3 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For CURBAR

    Diet of Worms
    "ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on..." 24/Sep

    Rise of the Robots
    "Haha 6b! Someone needs to lay off the crack pipe." 10/Aug

    Moonshine
    "Amazing that there are no comments for this brillant route. Technical interestin..." 02/Jun

    Rise of the Robots
    "Yes where did this 6b come from? I would go with 5c, but this route is much easi..." 17/Apr

    Finger Distance
    "A brilliant V4/5 with pads. I suppose you could argue that pads make it "to..." 14/Jan

    Honest John
    "Short but worthwhile" 26/Oct

    The Art of White Hat Wearing
    "Landing improved a while back and now a quality, West Side Story-esque, Font 7b+..." 19/Aug

    Soyuz
    "E1 5c. More in keeping with the Curbar grading system." 04/Jul

    Saddy
    "Thought that this is quite a good route. Good line cracks that require quite a b..." 09/Jun

    Saddy
    "I thought it was rather good, for some of the reasons Fiend dislikes it. It was ..." 08/May

    Saddy
    "Your man's right. This route is bloody awful." 04/May

    Potter's Wall
    "Gear is fine at the bottom, and you don't need it at the top........ jugs galore..." 04/May

    Thirst for Glory
    "Sling held in place with wires either side make the middle section protectable b..." 30/Oct

    Kayak
    "Ok for E1, the 5b move is above a flat landing and there is a good jug straight ..." 21/Sep

    Cool Moon
    "Tom De Gay was the first person to do it without side runners." 28/Aug

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