Adjacent Areas
< Moon Buttress | The Brain >
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Afternoon sun
Level
15 minsWindy
The main feature of central Curbar is the tall bulk of the Apollo Buttress with its impressive west face jutting out towards the valley. There is also a collection of (slightly) lesser routes to either side of the main tower. Guidebook page 292.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Hidden Pleasures 10m. The thin cracks in the narrow tower, small wires protect. | Pumpy | E3 6a |
2 |
Twin Crack 8m. The wide left-hand corner-crack using a subsidiary crack in its left wall - or layback the whole thing, at scary HVS 4c. 1 user comment | Fluttery Graunchy | HS 4b |
3 |
Straight Crack 8m. The widening right-hand corner-crack; awkward but safe. 1 user comment | VD | |
4 |
Ulysses or Bust 8m. An attractive and unprotected arete. Layaway to the right until it becomes imperative to swap sides. | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E5 6b |
5 |
The Unreachable Star 8m. The thin crack past an extended reach to a rounded exit. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy Rounded | E3 6a |
6 |
Dog-leg Crack 6m. The jamming crack is a gem, pity it is so short. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVD 4a |
7 |
Buckle's Sister 6m. The left-hand crack is amenable enough. 3 user comments | HVD 3c | |
8 |
Buckle's Brother 6m. The central crack is an exhausting thrash. 2 user comments | Technical Graunchy | HVS 4c |
9 |
Buckle's Crack 6m. The last crack is also a battle unless you dare layback it! 1 user comment | Fluttery Graunchy | HVS 4c |
10 |
Soyuz 10m. The cracks in the north-facing side wall lead to a sloping shelf. Before you pump out, stretch awkwardly right and reach... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Rounded | E2 5c |
11 |
Dark Entries 10m. Climb the bulges leftwards to a short crack then head right via long reaches to decent finishing holds. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy Rounded | E4 6a |
12 |
Forbidden Planet 12m. The fine flying arete on the right. Climb through the bulges with difficulty to the crucial roof. Undercut past this then... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | E5 6b |
13 |
Apollo 16m. Start from a stance on the ledge left of the tower. Move out right then head through the imposing bulges via a short crack... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Strong Rounded | E2 5c |
14 |
Two Pitch Route 1) 4c, 14m. Climb the left-hand crack (loose blocks) to ledges then traverse right to pass the arete to a comfortable stance.... 10 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Loose | VS 5a |
15 |
The League of Gentleman 16m. Climb the right edge of the lower wall. Continue over the big roof then climb the big bulges above to join The Beer... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E6 6b |
16 |
The Beer Hunter 10/16m. Climb the right arete of the buttress via a thin crack to a baffling move on a hidden pocket which gives access the... | 1 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
17 |
Combat les Pellicules 6m. Hairy moves up the short arete on the lower buttress, first on the left then on the right. | Technical | HVS 5c |
18 |
For the Good of the Cause 6m. Just left of The Big Rocker, a hard start reaches pockets that are followed left to finish as for Combat les Pellicules. | 1 Stars Rounded | E4 6b |
19 |
The Big Rocker 1) 4c, 14m. Climb a thin crack with woodwork then the jutting rib. Move down and across right to a stance below the... 2 user comments | VS 4c | |
20 |
Rocky Horror Show 6m. The short, technical and exposed arete is a bit of a ... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
21 |
Body Torque 6m. The centre of the west-facing wall with a hard lower section. | Technical | E3 5c |