Adjacent Areas
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This is the massive wall on the left-hand side of the gorge at Sa Gubia. The best routes link up steep pocketed walls via long tufas and blobs. Guidebook page 96.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Pecho Lata The furthest-left line of bolts can be done in one long pitch. If you split it, then both pitches are 6b+, but the first one is... | Fluttery | 6b+ |
2 |
Amor brujo The right-hand line to the same lower-off can also be climbed in one pitch. Pitch 2 is 6a+. | 1 Stars | 6b |
3 |
Papa moreno The wall above the pedestal. | 1 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
4 |
Puente aéreo A three-pitch trad route is located to the right of the pedestal, but it is not very popular. There is some fixed gear. | 5+ | |
5 |
Peur Impossible 1) 4+. A reasonable pitch on its own at this grade. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a |
6 |
Es poal An oddball up the left-hand edge of the cave with a point of aid. | ?? | |
7 |
Esto no es quinto superior The back left-hand side of the cave. The crux is high on the route, and is very hard. | 2 Stars Strong | 7a+ |
8 |
Papidepau A long pitch right of the orange cave. | 7b | |
9 |
Eternum The right-hand line out of Papidepau. | 7c | |
10 |
'Hey Noray!' Break out right from the initial section of Sal de arenal. | 8a | |
11 |
Sal de arenal A short-lived, but fine route up the wickedly steep tufas. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 6c |
12 |
Tres menos cuarto Desperate, reachy and technical. The crux is on the blue-tinged rock above the undercut. | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
13 |
Front 242 An imaginatively-drilled route with an extremely blank, and hard, crux move. | 2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 7b+ |
14 |
Algo salvage Top 50 27m. A classic tick linking some big blobs. There is a sit-down rest before the last bit but the route is still high in the... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
15 |
Piñón fijo The thin wall left of the two 'willies'. It feels a bit bold for a sport route, but comes highly recommended. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7b+ |
16 |
Si lo sé no vengo Top 50 A superb, fingery climb which starts between the 'willies'. There is a top pitch (6a) but the gear is old. 7 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7a |
17 |
Perque triunfin els canalles Up the fingery wall right of the long, grey tufa-system. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Crimpy | 6b+ |
18 |
Pesadilla final The left-hand line is very worthwhile, and for the most part on good holds. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
19 |
La peladora The right-hand branch. | 2 Stars Technical | 6c |
20 |
Humi Interesting climbing with a tricky crux bulge that has some sharp holds. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6a+ |
21 |
Mes rapit suc el vent A touch harder than Humi, but equally good and again on sharp holds. | 2 Stars Crimpy | 6a+ |
22 |
Pellejo de tiburón Good technical climbing past a small hollow, building to a fine finish on the upper wall. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a |
23 |
Seis pelas The original route of the face hasn't been re-geared yet. 1) 6a. The diagonal cracks lead to a belay. A protectable pitch if... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6c |
24 |
Decadencia corporal A great route with a brilliant and very popular first pitch. The climbing is extremely sustained and on very small holds. 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6c |
25 |
Comechochos A fun little route on which the grade depends totally on your leg length. Short or inflexible climbers might find it nearer... 4 user comments | 6a | |
26 |
Tao 1) 6b. The right-hand rib of the cave.2) 6c+. The crack from the top of the cave and then the wall to its left. | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6c+ |
27 |
Leather Face The blank wall right of the cave has sharp holds which are bigger than they look. Climb direct to the tree and then step left... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | 7a+ |
28 |
Pasteles de Isabel Top 50 A stunning line up the tufa. 1) 7b. Reaching and leaving the tufa provide the hard bits. Low in the grade.2) 6c+. Well... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7b |
29 |
Gay Power Technical face-climbing on tiny holds. Low in the grade. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7b |
30 |
Vol de nuit Top 50 Good climbing up the easiest line right of the cave but a bit escapable where it counts. It is possible to continue to the cave... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6b |
31 |
Tía melis Top 50 An excellent route that crosses Estricnina. 1) 6a. The scoop-covered wall.2) 6a. Swings rightwards and up from the... 3 user comments | 3 Stars | 6a |
32 |
Estricnina A popular and lengthy excursion which provides the easiest way up the wall. 1) 5+. Climb the wall past the buttocks. 2) 5+.... | 3 Stars | 5+ |
33 |
Chungui chunguez A superb and direct second-pitch above the buttocks. Pitch 1 is as for Estricnina. | 3 Stars Pumpy | 6c |
34 |
Danzomanía A good, long route which almost reaches the top of the wallStart at the bolt line right of the buttocks. 1) 5+. Climb up... | 2 Stars | 6a+ |
35 |
Guatón Another good route, which shares its first pitch with Danzamanía.1) 5+. As for Danzamanía.2) 6a. Step right and climb... 3 user comments | 2 Stars | 6a |