Adjacent Areas
< Overtaker's and Potter's Wall | Kayak Slab >
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
10 minsWindy
A fine pair of short steep walls, home to a good selection of short fingery face climbs of a less intimidating nature than is usual for Curbar. There are also some good cracks to tidy up the jamming technique of those who feel the need. Over on the left is the smaller Lamebrain Buttress with a couple of interesting climbs. Guidebook page 298.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Lamebrain 8m. The centre of the face via a finger crack - bomber wires. From a rest (Friend 3.5) finish rightwards on sloping holds. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy Rounded | E1 5b |
2 |
Suspect Intellect 8m. The ramp and hole access the front face. Finish up the arete. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Rounded | HVS 5a |
3 |
Allen's Climb 6m. The gritty cracks in the side wall have an awkward exit. | Rounded | D |
4 |
I Bet He Drinks Carling Black Label 8m. The sketchy wall and beckoning crack - desperate! | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6c |
5 |
The Squint Start 14m. An interesting and pumpy way for technical dunces to get at the attractive upper crack on Baron's Wall. | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
6 |
Tube of Foster's 8m. The blunt arete leads to the ledge, move left to access the thin crack with Diculty to finish. | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6b |
7 |
Smoke ont' Watter 8m. A choice of boulder problem starts (both about 6a) leads to a ledge. An awkward and scary move up left gains a thin hanging... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | E1 6a |
8 |
Baron's Wall 8m. The right-hand crack is gained from the right. Again the start is quite problematical especially for the short (5c?). 5 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Pumpy | HVS 5b |
9 |
Blockhead 8m. Climb past ledges and jam the groove to a steep finish using the crack on the right where needed. 1 user comment | Technical Pumpy | VS 5a |
10 |
Sweet Gene Vincent 10m. Take the wall right of Blockhead by a short dyno to reach the break. Step left and climb the technical thin crack in the... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
11 |
Saddy 10m. Exiting the thin crack is harder than it looks, the wires are tricky to place and the finish is pumpy. It's good though! 5 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Rounded | E2 5c |
12 |
Wall Climb 10m. The fine right-trending groove is high in the grade. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 5a |
13 |
Top Secret 8m. A tough start leads to the break, runners and a high crux. 3 user comments | Technical | E1 5c |
14 |
Calver Chimney 10m. Usually a bit green though most of the best holds aren't! | D | |
15 |
Colossus 8m. The right-hand arete of the chimney mostly on its left side. 1 user comment | Rounded | E2 5b |
16 |
Calver Wall 8m. Climb the easy wall left of a tree to a ledge. Finish up the short, and tricky crack by a layback move or two. 8 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
17 |
Brindle Crack 10m. As for Calver Wall to the ledge but step right to reach and climb the right-hand branch of the crack. | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
18 |
Polar Crack 8m. Start to the right of the tree and climb an awkward wide crack to a ledge. Finish up right-hand crack in the upper wall. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4b |
19 |
The Corner 8m. The blank corner is bridged. Technical but still low in the grade except for the short. | HVS 5b | |
20 |
Flying Buttress 12m. The left-hand side of the buttress via a groove and cracks. Finish using both cracks or it is a grade harder. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4a |
21 |
Flying Buttress Right 10m. The right-hand side of the buttress also gives a worthwhile climb and the same comment applies. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | S 4a |