Baron's Wall and Calver Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Overtaker's and Potter's Wall  |  Kayak Slab >

Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
10 mins

A fine pair of short steep walls, home to a good selection of short fingery face climbs of a less intimidating nature than is usual for Curbar. There are also some good cracks to tidy up the jamming technique of those who feel the need. Over on the left is the smaller Lamebrain Buttress with a couple of interesting climbs. Guidebook page 298.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Lamebrain
8m. The centre of the face via a finger crack - bomber wires. From a rest (Friend 3.5) finish rightwards on sloping holds.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Rounded
E1 5b
2
Suspect Intellect
8m. The ramp and hole access the front face. Finish up the arete.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5a
3
Allen's Climb
6m. The gritty cracks in the side wall have an awkward exit.
 
Rounded
D
4
I Bet He Drinks Carling Black Label
8m. The sketchy wall and beckoning crack - desperate!
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
5
The Squint Start
14m. An interesting and pumpy way for technical dunces to get at the attractive upper crack on Baron's Wall.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
6
Tube of Foster's
8m. The blunt arete leads to the ledge, move left to access the thin crack with Diculty to finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
7
Smoke ont' Watter
8m. A choice of boulder problem starts (both about 6a) leads to a ledge. An awkward and scary move up left gains a thin hanging...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E1 6a
8
Baron's Wall
8m. The right-hand crack is gained from the right. Again the start is quite problematical especially for the short (5c?).
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
HVS 5b
9
Blockhead
8m. Climb past ledges and jam the groove to a steep finish using the crack on the right where needed.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Pumpy
VS 5a
10
Sweet Gene Vincent
10m. Take the wall right of Blockhead by a short dyno to reach the break. Step left and climb the technical thin crack in the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
11
Saddy
10m. Exiting the thin crack is harder than it looks, the wires are tricky to place and the finish is pumpy. It's good though!
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E2 5c
12
Wall Climb
10m. The fine right-trending groove is high in the grade.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
13
Top Secret
8m. A tough start leads to the break, runners and a high crux.
3 user comments
 
Technical
E1 5c
14
Calver Chimney
10m. Usually a bit green though most of the best holds aren't!
 D
15
Colossus
8m. The right-hand arete of the chimney mostly on its left side.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
E2 5b
16
Calver Wall
8m. Climb the easy wall left of a tree to a ledge. Finish up the short, and tricky crack by a layback move or two.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
17
Brindle Crack
10m. As for Calver Wall to the ledge but step right to reach and climb the right-hand branch of the crack.
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
18
Polar Crack
8m. Start to the right of the tree and climb an awkward wide crack to a ledge. Finish up right-hand crack in the upper wall.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
19
The Corner
8m. The blank corner is bridged. Technical but still low in the grade except for the short.
 HVS 5b
20
Flying Buttress
12m. The left-hand side of the buttress via a groove and cracks. Finish using both cracks or it is a grade harder.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
21
Flying Buttress Right
10m. The right-hand side of the buttress also gives a worthwhile climb and the same comment applies.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For CURBAR

    Diet of Worms
    "ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on..." 24/Sep

    Rise of the Robots
    "Haha 6b! Someone needs to lay off the crack pipe." 10/Aug

    Moonshine
    "Amazing that there are no comments for this brillant route. Technical interestin..." 02/Jun

    Rise of the Robots
    "Yes where did this 6b come from? I would go with 5c, but this route is much easi..." 17/Apr

    Finger Distance
    "A brilliant V4/5 with pads. I suppose you could argue that pads make it "to..." 14/Jan

    Honest John
    "Short but worthwhile" 26/Oct

    The Art of White Hat Wearing
    "Landing improved a while back and now a quality, West Side Story-esque, Font 7b+..." 19/Aug

    Soyuz
    "E1 5c. More in keeping with the Curbar grading system." 04/Jul

    Saddy
    "Thought that this is quite a good route. Good line cracks that require quite a b..." 09/Jun

    Saddy
    "I thought it was rather good, for some of the reasons Fiend dislikes it. It was ..." 08/May

    Saddy
    "Your man's right. This route is bloody awful." 04/May

    Potter's Wall
    "Gear is fine at the bottom, and you don't need it at the top........ jugs galore..." 04/May

    Thirst for Glory
    "Sling held in place with wires either side make the middle section protectable b..." 30/Oct

    Kayak
    "Ok for E1, the 5b move is above a flat landing and there is a good jug straight ..." 21/Sep

    Cool Moon
    "Tom De Gay was the first person to do it without side runners." 28/Aug

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