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Sun from mid-morning
40 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

The central wall is dominated by the main two routes of Surprise Attack and Daydreams. Guidebook page 72.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Let Me Down Easy
40m. A superb serious route which follows the magnificent hanging groove left of the main groove of Surprise Attack. From the...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6a
2
Surprise Attack
The most popular line here follows the long grooveline which is gained by a steep and impressive start. The climbing is a bit...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1 5c
3
Ambush at Bear Creek
A bold eliminate up the prominent arete between the last two routes. 40m. From the base of the groove on Surprise Attack, just...
 
Fluttery
E5 6a
4
Nearly a Whisper
This interesting route follows the right-hand wall of the Surprise Attack corner finishing in a good position on the large...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 6a
5
The Lure of the Sea
A variation pitch based on the big rounded arete right of Surprise Attack. Start as for Nearly a Whisper to the belay.2)...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
6
The Shining
The last route to use the start of Surprise Attack to break through the initial roofs is a hard and technical climb up the big...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
7
Try to Imagine Drowning
A bold first pitch and a good second. Start directly below the belay on The Voyage Out.1) 6a, 15m. Climb steeply over the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
8
The Voyage Out
A good route which follows a slanting groove in the big wall. The start of the second pitch has a bold and technical move that...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
9
Somnambulist
48m. A long pitch which tackles the wall directly above the start of The Voyage Out. It can be climbed in one pitch on 50m...
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
10
Lateral Bearings
A superb direct climb up the wall which provides an excellent alternative to Daydreams. Since there is often a party on...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
11
By Popular Demand
Another direct route up the wall above the groove of Daydreams.1) 5a, 15m. Gain the 1st belay on Daydreams from The Voyage...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4 6a
12
Daydreams
One of the great Pembroke classics. It follows a cunning line up the wall weaving in and out of the steep bits. Start at the...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
E2 5b
13
Nightmare on Lily Street
A left to right line which takes in the old variation pitch to Daydreams.1) 6b, 10m. From the start of The Voyage Out,...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
14
Chartered Courses
A much steeper climb up the right-hand side of the wall. Start as for Daydreams.1) 5b, 10m. Climb Daydreams to the first...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E5 6a
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  • Latest Comments

    For MEWSFORD

    Daydreams
    "A quality climb with three contrasting pitches, all of which have their moments...." 12/Jun

    Daydreams
    "Agree that the second pitch felt like E2 5b in its own right- was technical and ..." 11/Jun

    Daydreams
    "I felt it kept coming at you one way or another most of the way with a couple of..." 15/Dec

    Surprise Attack
    "cheeky move of the belay...... more like an easy E2??" 30/Apr

    Try to Imagine Drowning
    "Try to Imagine Drowning is at St Govans Head. So what is this route that is desc..." 14/Apr

    Daydreams
    "I seem to be the only one that finds the first pitch the most committing and int..." 01/Sep

    Daydreams
    "I agree with Adrian. I thought the 2nd pitch was the crux and worth E2 5b in it..." 27/Apr

    Lateral Bearings
    "A very good route indeed, and one that keeps coming until the end! Can (and shou..." 19/Apr

    Surprise Attack
    "The crux moves aren't too difficult but feel very slippery and insecure for E1. ..." 18/Apr

    Daydreams
    "Not sure about anyone else, but I found the second pitch to be the most sustaine..." 30/Mar

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