Mewsford Main

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level
40 mins
Abseil
Tidal

Range East - usually closed mid-week


The central wall is dominated by the main two routes of Surprise Attack and Daydreams. Guidebook page 72.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Let Me Down Easy
40m. A superb serious route which follows the magnificent hanging groove left of the main groove of Surprise Attack. From the...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6a
2
Surprise Attack
The most popular line here follows the long grooveline which is gained by a steep and impressive start. The climbing is a bit...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1 5c
3
Ambush at Bear Creek
A bold eliminate up the prominent arete between the last two routes. 40m. From the base of the groove on Surprise Attack, just...
 
Fluttery
E5 6a
4
Nearly a Whisper
This interesting route follows the right-hand wall of the Surprise Attack corner finishing in a good position on the large...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 6a
5
The Lure of the Sea
A variation pitch based on the big rounded arete right of Surprise Attack. Start as for Nearly a Whisper to the belay.2)...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
6
The Shining
The last route to use the start of Surprise Attack to break through the initial roofs is a hard and technical climb up the big...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
7
Try to Imagine Drowning
A bold first pitch and a good second. Start directly below the belay on The Voyage Out.1) 6a, 15m. Climb steeply over the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
8
The Voyage Out
A good route which follows a slanting groove in the big wall. The start of the second pitch has a bold and technical move that...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
9
Somnambulist
48m. A long pitch which tackles the wall directly above the start of The Voyage Out. It can be climbed in one pitch on 50m...
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
10
Lateral Bearings
A superb direct climb up the wall which provides an excellent alternative to Daydreams. Since there is often a party on...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
11
By Popular Demand
Another direct route up the wall above the groove of Daydreams.1) 5a, 15m. Gain the 1st belay on Daydreams from The Voyage...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4 6a
12
Daydreams
One of the great Pembroke classics. It follows a cunning line up the wall weaving in and out of the steep bits. Start at the...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
E2 5b
13
Nightmare on Lily Street
A left to right line which takes in the old variation pitch to Daydreams.1) 6b, 10m. From the start of The Voyage Out,...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
14
Chartered Courses
A much steeper climb up the right-hand side of the wall. Start as for Daydreams.1) 5b, 10m. Climb Daydreams to the first...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E5 6a
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  • Latest Comments

    For MEWSFORD

    Daydreams
    "A quality climb with three contrasting pitches, all of which have their moments...." 12/Jun

    Daydreams
    "Agree that the second pitch felt like E2 5b in its own right- was technical and ..." 11/Jun

    Daydreams
    "I felt it kept coming at you one way or another most of the way with a couple of..." 15/Dec

    Surprise Attack
    "cheeky move of the belay...... more like an easy E2??" 30/Apr

    Try to Imagine Drowning
    "Try to Imagine Drowning is at St Govans Head. So what is this route that is desc..." 14/Apr

    Daydreams
    "I seem to be the only one that finds the first pitch the most committing and int..." 01/Sep

    Daydreams
    "I agree with Adrian. I thought the 2nd pitch was the crux and worth E2 5b in it..." 27/Apr

    Lateral Bearings
    "A very good route indeed, and one that keeps coming until the end! Can (and shou..." 19/Apr

    Surprise Attack
    "The crux moves aren't too difficult but feel very slippery and insecure for E1. ..." 18/Apr

    Daydreams
    "Not sure about anyone else, but I found the second pitch to be the most sustaine..." 30/Mar

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