Adjacent Areas
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Sun from mid-morning
Level
40 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
Range East - usually closed mid-week
The central wall is dominated by the main two routes of Surprise Attack and Daydreams. Guidebook page 72.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Let Me Down Easy 40m. A superb serious route which follows the magnificent hanging groove left of the main groove of Surprise Attack. From the... | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | E5 6a |
2 |
Surprise Attack The most popular line here follows the long grooveline which is gained by a steep and impressive start. The climbing is a bit... 6 user comments | 3 Stars | E1 5c |
3 |
Ambush at Bear Creek A bold eliminate up the prominent arete between the last two routes. 40m. From the base of the groove on Surprise Attack, just... | Fluttery | E5 6a |
4 |
Nearly a Whisper This interesting route follows the right-hand wall of the Surprise Attack corner finishing in a good position on the large... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E3 6a |
5 |
The Lure of the Sea A variation pitch based on the big rounded arete right of Surprise Attack. Start as for Nearly a Whisper to the belay.2)... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
6 |
The Shining The last route to use the start of Surprise Attack to break through the initial roofs is a hard and technical climb up the big... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E4 6a |
7 |
Try to Imagine Drowning A bold first pitch and a good second. Start directly below the belay on The Voyage Out.1) 6a, 15m. Climb steeply over the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
8 |
The Voyage Out A good route which follows a slanting groove in the big wall. The start of the second pitch has a bold and technical move that... | 2 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
9 |
Somnambulist 48m. A long pitch which tackles the wall directly above the start of The Voyage Out. It can be climbed in one pitch on 50m... | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
10 |
Lateral Bearings A superb direct climb up the wall which provides an excellent alternative to Daydreams. Since there is often a party on... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Strong | E2 5c |
11 |
By Popular Demand Another direct route up the wall above the groove of Daydreams.1) 5a, 15m. Gain the 1st belay on Daydreams from The Voyage... | 1 Stars Strong | E4 6a |
12 |
Daydreams One of the great Pembroke classics. It follows a cunning line up the wall weaving in and out of the steep bits. Start at the... 9 user comments | 3 Stars | E2 5b |
13 |
Nightmare on Lily Street A left to right line which takes in the old variation pitch to Daydreams.1) 6b, 10m. From the start of The Voyage Out,... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E5 6b |
14 |
Chartered Courses A much steeper climb up the right-hand side of the wall. Start as for Daydreams.1) 5b, 10m. Climb Daydreams to the first... | 1 Stars Strong Fluttery | E5 6a |