Elder Crack

Adjacent Areas
< Avalanche Wall  |  Bel Ami >

Trad
Early morning sun
10 mins
Level
Windy

This magnificent jutting buttress is the tallest section of Curbar and is home to some of its very best routes. The main outings here are not just 3-star classics, they are major landmarks in any climbing career. However, the difficulty level is high and most competent climbers may only manage to tick Elder Crack in a normal lifetime.
Approach (see map on page 405) - From the gate at the start of the green drive follow the track for 450m then slant left to reach the edge of the Eliminates Wall, descend here and walk under the face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rigid Digit
Climb the direct start to Profit of Doom to below the upper groove. Use a flake to start a sequence, heading up and right to...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E5
2
Ramboid
Make a chin-grinding mantel onto the triangular ledge.
 
1 Stars
f7B
3
Janus
The long, shallow, leaning groove that forms the direct on Rigid Digit is arduous and superb as well as being one of the very...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E7
4
Elder Crack
The imposing narrowing fissure is one of gritstone's great crack ticks. A brambly, blocky crack leads to the sentry-box....
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
E2
5
The Elder Statesman
Climb Elder Crack to the rest above the crux, then with a high runner, extemporise a way to gain the left-hand side of the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E7
6
Knockin' on Heaven's Door
Well-named. Climb the steep wall initially up a shallow groove, then centrally with increasing apprehension to a final...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E9
7
Keeper's Crack
The crack on the right is too wide for comfort although the upper section, behind the ledge, is easier. Another grovel that...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS
8
Bill and Ben
Climb the arete to ledges (Ben, E4) then the easier exposed continuation on the left (Bill, E2 5c). The lower arete has a high...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
E4
  • Latest Comments

    For CURBAR

    Don't Slip Now
    "Death on a stick. Not really that hard....but crikey.... zero gear, nothing to r..." 19/Mar

    Diet of Worms
    "ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on..." 24/Sep

    Rise of the Robots
    "Haha 6b! Someone needs to lay off the crack pipe." 10/Aug

    Moonshine
    "Amazing that there are no comments for this brillant route. Technical interestin..." 02/Jun

    Rise of the Robots
    "Yes where did this 6b come from? I would go with 5c, but this route is much easi..." 17/Apr

    Finger Distance
    "A brilliant V4/5 with pads. I suppose you could argue that pads make it "to..." 14/Jan

    Honest John
    "Short but worthwhile" 26/Oct

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