Elder Crack

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
6 mins

A magnificent jutting buttress makes up the tallest section of Curbar and, not surprisingly, it is home to some of its very best routes. These aren’t just 3-star classics, the main 5 outings here are major landmarks in any climbing career. However, the difficulty level is high and most competent climbers may only manage to tick Elder Crack in a normal lifetime. Those who progress on to manage Profit of Doom can consider themselves to have pretty much tamed most of Curbar. Progress beyond this to tackle the other routes here and you have truly joined the elite. For something a lot milder the classic of P.M.C. 1 sneaks up the left-hand side of the north-facing wall and proves to be one of the best lower grade routes on the whole cliff. Guidebook page 302.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
P.M.C. 1
16m. The cracks to the right of the corner lead steeply to a ledge (possible stance on the left). Trend right up the wall to a...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
HS 4a
2
The Fall
18m. Easy climbing leads to good gear then a long reach gains small holds which are followed rightwards to the arete. Barn-door...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E6 6b
3
Profit of Doom
18m. The superb hanging groove in the arete is best approached via the steep and awkward crack directly below it, although...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E4 6b
4
Rigid Digit
18m. Climb the direct start to Profit of Doom to below the crucial groove and place the Profit runner. Use a flake to start a...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
5
Janus
16m. The long, shallow, leaning groove that cleaves the front of the tower is arduous and superb; one of the very best lines...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E7 6b
6
Elder Crack
18m. The soaring narrowing fissure is one of gritstone’s great ticks. Easy climbing leads to the sentry-box. Runners can be...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E2 5b
7
The New Statesman
18m. Climb Elder Crack to the rest above the crux, then with a high runner, extemporise a way to gain the left-hand side of the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E7 7b
8
Knockin' on Heaven's Door
18m. A well-named climb up the superb, steep wall. The first ascent started up the shallow groove on the right and used a high...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E9 6c
9
Keeper's Crack
14m. The crack on the right is too wide for comfort although the upper section, behind the ledge, is easier. Another grovel...
 VS 4b
10
Bill and Ben
16m. Climb the arete to ledges then the easier (E2 5c) exposed continuation over on the left. The lower arete has a high crux...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For CURBAR

    Diet of Worms
    "ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on..." 24/Sep

    Rise of the Robots
    "Haha 6b! Someone needs to lay off the crack pipe." 10/Aug

    Moonshine
    "Amazing that there are no comments for this brillant route. Technical interestin..." 02/Jun

    Rise of the Robots
    "Yes where did this 6b come from? I would go with 5c, but this route is much easi..." 17/Apr

    Finger Distance
    "A brilliant V4/5 with pads. I suppose you could argue that pads make it "to..." 14/Jan

    Honest John
    "Short but worthwhile" 26/Oct

    The Art of White Hat Wearing
    "Landing improved a while back and now a quality, West Side Story-esque, Font 7b+..." 19/Aug

    Soyuz
    "E1 5c. More in keeping with the Curbar grading system." 04/Jul

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