Adjacent Areas
< Avalanche Wall | L'Horla >
A magnificent jutting buttress makes up the tallest section of Curbar and, not surprisingly, it is home to some of its very best routes. These aren’t just 3-star classics, the main 5 outings here are major landmarks in any climbing career. However, the difficulty level is high and most competent climbers may only manage to tick Elder Crack in a normal lifetime. Those who progress on to manage Profit of Doom can consider themselves to have pretty much tamed most of Curbar. Progress beyond this to tackle the other routes here and you have truly joined the elite. For something a lot milder the classic of P.M.C. 1 sneaks up the left-hand side of the north-facing wall and proves to be one of the best lower grade routes on the whole cliff. Guidebook page 302.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
P.M.C. 1 16m. The cracks to the right of the corner lead steeply to a ledge (possible stance on the left). Trend right up the wall to a... 6 user comments | 3 Stars | HS 4a |
2 |
The Fall 18m. Easy climbing leads to good gear then a long reach gains small holds which are followed rightwards to the arete. Barn-door... | 2 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E6 6b |
3 |
Profit of Doom 18m. The superb hanging groove in the arete is best approached via the steep and awkward crack directly below it, although... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Pumpy | E4 6b |
4 |
Rigid Digit 18m. Climb the direct start to Profit of Doom to below the crucial groove and place the Profit runner. Use a flake to start a... | 3 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy | E5 6b |
5 |
Janus 16m. The long, shallow, leaning groove that cleaves the front of the tower is arduous and superb; one of the very best lines... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E7 6b |
6 |
Elder Crack 18m. The soaring narrowing fissure is one of gritstone’s great ticks. Easy climbing leads to the sentry-box. Runners can be... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E2 5b |
7 |
The New Statesman 18m. Climb Elder Crack to the rest above the crux, then with a high runner, extemporise a way to gain the left-hand side of the... | 1 Stars Technical | E7 7b |
8 |
Knockin' on Heaven's Door 18m. A well-named climb up the superb, steep wall. The first ascent started up the shallow groove on the right and used a high... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E9 6c |
9 |
Keeper's Crack 14m. The crack on the right is too wide for comfort although the upper section, behind the ledge, is easier. Another grovel... | VS 4b | |
10 |
Bill and Ben 16m. Climb the arete to ledges then the easier (E2 5c) exposed continuation over on the left. The lower arete has a high crux... | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6b |