MOD Building

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
15 mins
Abseil
Tidal

Range East - usually closed mid-week


A closely packed set of short easy routes, on good rock and in a lovely setting. The easy accessible nature of the place means it can get crowded here - don't be surprised if you turn up and it is mobbed! DO NOT belay to the clifftop fence. Guidebook page 104.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Haze
26m. Start at the base of the slab at the left-hand end of the wall. Climb down to cross the groove then up and left to a...
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
2
Sea Mist Top 50
26m. A great route which takes you into a wonderful position above the sea. Mild but it has quite an airy feel about it. From...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS 4a
3
Sunset Boulevard
24m. From the low cave climb the left-hand side of the slab by a series of mantelshelves then finish easily up the headwall...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
4
Breaking Wind
24m. A bit of an eliminate. From the cave pull directly onto base of the smoother section of the slab using a pocket and a...
 
Technical
E1 5b
5
Pink 'un
24m. The corner bounding the right-hand side of the slab gives an technically interesting little climb which takes as many...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 5a
6
Infra Red
22m. Just right of Pink 'un is another similar corner with some red rock at its base. Follow this as it jinks to the right.
 
1 Stars
S
7
Wetstone
22m. The next corner with a move left high up. Nice well-protected climbing suitable for sharpening up your technique perhaps.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4b
8
Urchin
22m. The fourth of the corner climbs has a short rib to reach it.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
9
Buff
22m. The last of the clutch of corners is a narrow affair and it joins Urchin higher up.
1 user comment
 VD
10
Flake-Quake
22m. At last not a corner! Climb the wider wall right of all the corners past two ledges and a flake - nice rock.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
11
Fel Gwyr
22m. Climb the right-bounding rib of the slab. Mild but still well worthwhile, again on great rock.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
D
12
Forgotten Corner
22m. The corner with a cave below and right of it is quite tough for the grade but the gear is good.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
13
Small Beginnings
22m. Climb the crack and short groove in the wall above the left-hand cave, reached from its right-hand side.
 
1 Stars
VD
14
Nameless Wall
22m. Climb the wall above the right-hand edge of the cave. Quite mild at the grade, but another with pleasant climbing.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
15
Follow the Chalk
22m. The long corner (the left-hand of a pair) gives nice climbing to a steep finish. One foot may stray into No Hands ......
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
16
No Hands
22m. The larger cave has a pillar of rock in it and above this a long corner runs up the left-hand end of the roof high above....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 4b
17
Get on Lord
22m. Climb the steep wall above the right hand side of the cave. The bulge is crossed at an inverted niche then finish...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For SADDLE HEAD

    Sunset Boulevard
    "Above comment refers to the 1995 guidebook. The lines in the 2009 guidebook for ..." 08/Jul

    Sunset Boulevard
    "Agreed. I tried to go direct up the centre of the slab (shown as Sunset Boulevar..." 08/Jul

    Get on Lord
    "pumpy" 01/Jun

    Eaves Dripper
    "Agree with the previous comment of the top pitch being E1 5B. No way it's 4c." 20/Aug

    Eaves Dripper
    "First pitch is as on the topo (and excellent) though the belay is higher than sh..." 26/Aug

    Blue Sky
    "Wow! A fantastic adventure. We abbed in and started from a hanging belay above c..." 20/Dec top50

    Blue Sky
    "Good positions but technically easy for VS, the first pitch is 4a, and the secon..." 21/Jul top50

    Pink 'un
    "Top end VS, and a good route." 10/Apr

    Pink 'un
    "Quality moves, top end of VS especially if a little damp. There is gear by the b..." 16/Oct

    Pink 'un
    "Better than DEMO route!" 01/Sep

    Buff
    "Simple, straight forward and well protected. Abenchmark V diff." 14/Aug

    Wetstone
    "Given as HS 4b in the comprehensive guide, I think S 4b is closer to the truth -..." 06/Aug

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