Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Level
10 minsWindy
The broad platform below the crag drops down and the walls rear up above impressively culminating in a huge sweep of rock above a permanently-filled inlet. This magnificent wall is crossed by one of the most iconic routes in the country - Pleasure Dome (E3) - which traces a beautiful line across a rising weakness, above this beckoning pool. The other routes here tend to be sidelines to the main event but all are worthwhile, although you need to be operating in the E-grades to get the most out of the place. Everything here is intimidating and committing. Guidebook page 144.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Anyone for Stennis 35m. The prominent crackline has a strenuous start with good but hard-earned gear. The crack is gained either directly or from... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
2 |
Loco Dementia 35m. An excellent and underrated route which has a very difficult section on its lower wall. Start down and right of the crack... | 1 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
3 |
Stennis Pillar To the right is a trench which turns into a chimney above. This fun route takes the easiest line up the chimney and wall.1)... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Graunchy | HVS 5a |
4 |
Gold Fever 35m. The direct finish to Stennis Pillar is seldom climbed. From the small cave at the top of the chimney, climb directly up... | E2 5c | |
5 |
Diagnosis 35m. The thin crack left of Mean Streak. Climb the rib to a ledge, then move left before stepping up a groove and shuffle left... | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | E4 6a |
6 |
Mean Streak 35m. The thin right-hand crack above the ledge gives painful, finger-shredding climbing. It is in a very impressive situation... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E5 6a |
7 |
Pleasure Dome Top 50 42m. One thing that makes a route truly great is when it goes somewhere that you don’t think is possible at the grade. Pleasure... 11 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
8 |
The Great Elmyra The impossible looking crack in the headwall above the traverse of Pleasure Dome is only slightly easier than its appearance... | 1 Stars Technical Strong | E5 6c |
9 |
Stennis the Menace A very hard and fingery route which bisects the Pleasure Dome traverse. Start below the awesome bulging wall below the traverse... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
10 |
Stennis the Menace / The Great Elmyra 38m. This modern combination of two half routes has become the classic hard tick of this wall. It gives sustained and technical... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | E6 6c |
11 |
Grey English Morning 35m. An amazingly-positioned route which gives sustained climbing up the wall below Pleasure Dome after a devious start. The... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E5 6b |
12 |
Grey English Wimpout 35m. A combination of other routes but a great way to enjoy this amazing wall at a more-accessible grade. Follow Grey English... | 2 Stars | E2 5b |
13 |
Walk on the Wild Side 25m. An underrated route which is a good way to get more experience of this wall for people who have already done Pleasure... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
14 |
Superbrat A right-to-left traverse of the wall which uses the traverse line below Pleasure Dome. Only the first two pitches are included... | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
