Adjacent Areas
< None | East Wall >
Trad
No sun
Level
8 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
Range East - usually closed mid-week
The landward end of the pink West (right looking out) Wall contains some of the most accessible and popular hard routes in Pembroke. The main characteristic of this wall is the large block on the beach with the curving crack line of 'The Minotaur' above its left-hand end. The (usually) well chalked line of 'Head Hunter' is above the centre of the block and the other obvious route, on the right-hand side of the wall, finishing at a small tower, is 'Bloody Sunday'. The finishes of all of these routes require care with loose rock and some tricky vegetable cornices. The seaward end of the West Wall is awesomely steep and impressive and contains one of the most stunning set of hard traditional routes to be found anywhere. The big powerful climbs in the middle all rely on large amounts of insitu threads and pegs. All of these must be regarded as slightly dubious and an abseil inspection is advisable. Guidebook page 124.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Woeful A classic E5 and one on which you don’t have to worry about any dodgy bits of fixed gear. Start next to the pool under the... | 3 Stars Pumpy | E5 6b |
2 |
Darkness at Noon An amazing climb which takes a wild line up the seaward end of the wall. The conditions of this route seem to vary from... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
3 |
Night-Seeker 35m. The towering groove above the ramp gives a BIG pitch which needs re-climbing now the drilled old pegs have gone. Start up... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | E6 6b |
4 |
Hunter-Killer 35m. This magnificent route follows the pocketed crack line above the right-hand side of the ramp. The climbing is physical but... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E6 6b |
5 |
Nothing to Fear 35m. A huge climb which tackles the left-hand of two groove/runnels. Climb the lower wall (good small wires) to the roof (small... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy Fluttery | E8 6b |
6 |
Terminal Twilight 35m. An ascent of the snaking runnel is a magnificent achievement. A strenuous struggle from the word go; the gear is good but... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E7 6b |
7 |
The Black Lagoon 35m. The left-hand direct start to the finishing groove of Witch Hunt. Start under the runnel which is gained via a flake and... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E7 6b |
8 |
Light at the End of the Runnel 35m. Yet another stupendous climb which reaches the upper section of Witch Hunt via two prominent hollows. Climb up to the... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | E6 6b |
9 |
Little Hunt 35m. The direct version of Witch Hunt in one pitch. Start as for Light at the End of the Runnel, but break out right from holds... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
10 |
Witch Hunt The original line up this bit of wall which is slightly spoilt by the crux move being much harder than the rest. Photo on page... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | E4 6b |
11 |
Chupacabra 35m. A very bold climb. From the rest in the scoop after the crux of Witch Hunt, pull out right and climb the bold wall above... | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E8 6c |
12 |
Boat to Naxos 35m. An extremely bold undertaking. From the peg in the flake on Witch Hunt, step right and climb a scoop. Pull up onto the... | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E7 6b |
13 |
Souls 35m. A solid E6. The crucial fixed gear is now in very poor condition and is difficult to back up. Start as for Witch Hunt but... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
14 |
Half Man, Half Beast 35m. An intricate line up the big blank wall right of Souls. Start from midway between Souls and the block. Climb up to a break... | 2 Stars Strong | E6 6b |
15 |
The Minotaur Top 50 35m. A superb route that is low in the grade. The first half is serious and the big move at the top is entirely dependent on... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | E5 6a |
16 |
Theseus 35m. For aspirant Minotaur-slayers - the superdirect finish. Climb Minotaur until the jugs after its crux. Place bomber gear in... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E6 6c |
17 |
The Subterranean 35m. A very bold and serious route up the brown wall left of Head Hunter that is high in the grade. The two pegs are poor and... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E6 6b |
18 |
Head Hunter Top 50 35m. The rising line of cracks and blobs gives a wonderful pitch. High in the grade and the moves to reach the central ramp are... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E4 6a |
19 |
Snake Charmer The cluster of tat with a bale-out krab on it marks the crux, although reaching it is no picnic.1) 6c, 15m. Climb to the... | 2 Stars Technical | E5 6c |
20 |
The White Hotel The elegant open groove is seldom climbed.1) 6b, 15m. Climb the groove. Where it ends make hard moves up to eventually... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6c |
21 |
The Witching Hour 35m. Extremely bold and difficult to onsight and probably the hardest E6 in the Leap (now that Terminal Twilight has been... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E6 6b |
22 |
Wicked Witch of the West 35m. A direct finish to The Witching Hour. Climb The Witching Hour to a good rest at the large undercut flake. Climb direct up... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E6 6b |
23 |
Bloody Sunday Top 50 35m. This magnificent Pembrokeshire classic should have a place on everyone’s tick list. Arguments over its grade will continue... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
24 |
Just Another Day Top 50 35m. The right-most climb on the wall is another classic which is probably best combined with Scorch the Earth. Start at the... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
25 |
Scorch the Earth 35m. A well-positioned route which provides an excellent variation finish to either of the previous two routes. From the rest... | 2 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
