West Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
No sun
Level
8 mins
Abseil
Tidal

Range East - usually closed mid-week


The landward end of the pink West (right looking out) Wall contains some of the most accessible and popular hard routes in Pembroke. The main characteristic of this wall is the large block on the beach with the curving crack line of 'The Minotaur' above its left-hand end. The (usually) well chalked line of 'Head Hunter' is above the centre of the block and the other obvious route, on the right-hand side of the wall, finishing at a small tower, is 'Bloody Sunday'. The finishes of all of these routes require care with loose rock and some tricky vegetable cornices. The seaward end of the West Wall is awesomely steep and impressive and contains one of the most stunning set of hard traditional routes to be found anywhere. The big powerful climbs in the middle all rely on large amounts of insitu threads and pegs. All of these must be regarded as slightly dubious and an abseil inspection is advisable. Guidebook page 124.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Woeful
A classic E5 and one on which you don’t have to worry about any dodgy bits of fixed gear. Start next to the pool under the...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
2
Darkness at Noon
An amazing climb which takes a wild line up the seaward end of the wall. The conditions of this route seem to vary from...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
3
Night-Seeker
35m. The towering groove above the ramp gives a BIG pitch which needs re-climbing now the drilled old pegs have gone. Start up...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E6 6b
4
Hunter-Killer
35m. This magnificent route follows the pocketed crack line above the right-hand side of the ramp. The climbing is physical but...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E6 6b
5
Nothing to Fear
35m. A huge climb which tackles the left-hand of two groove/runnels. Climb the lower wall (good small wires) to the roof (small...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
E8 6b
6
Terminal Twilight
35m. An ascent of the snaking runnel is a magnificent achievement. A strenuous struggle from the word go; the gear is good but...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E7 6b
7
The Black Lagoon
35m. The left-hand direct start to the finishing groove of Witch Hunt. Start under the runnel which is gained via a flake and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7 6b
8
Light at the End of the Runnel
35m. Yet another stupendous climb which reaches the upper section of Witch Hunt via two prominent hollows. Climb up to the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
9
Little Hunt
35m. The direct version of Witch Hunt in one pitch. Start as for Light at the End of the Runnel, but break out right from holds...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
10
Witch Hunt
The original line up this bit of wall which is slightly spoilt by the crux move being much harder than the rest. Photo on page...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
11
Chupacabra
35m. A very bold climb. From the rest in the scoop after the crux of Witch Hunt, pull out right and climb the bold wall above...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E8 6c
12
Boat to Naxos
35m. An extremely bold undertaking. From the peg in the flake on Witch Hunt, step right and climb a scoop. Pull up onto the...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7 6b
13
Souls
35m. A solid E6. The crucial fixed gear is now in very poor condition and is difficult to back up. Start as for Witch Hunt but...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
14
Half Man, Half Beast
35m. An intricate line up the big blank wall right of Souls. Start from midway between Souls and the block. Climb up to a break...
 
2 Stars
Strong
E6 6b
15
The Minotaur Top 50
35m. A superb route that is low in the grade. The first half is serious and the big move at the top is entirely dependent on...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E5 6a
16
Theseus
35m. For aspirant Minotaur-slayers - the superdirect finish. Climb Minotaur until the jugs after its crux. Place bomber gear in...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6c
17
The Subterranean
35m. A very bold and serious route up the brown wall left of Head Hunter that is high in the grade. The two pegs are poor and...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
18
Head Hunter Top 50
35m. The rising line of cracks and blobs gives a wonderful pitch. High in the grade and the moves to reach the central ramp are...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
19
Snake Charmer
The cluster of tat with a bale-out krab on it marks the crux, although reaching it is no picnic.1) 6c, 15m. Climb to the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
20
The White Hotel
The elegant open groove is seldom climbed.1) 6b, 15m. Climb the groove. Where it ends make hard moves up to eventually...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
21
The Witching Hour
35m. Extremely bold and difficult to onsight and probably the hardest E6 in the Leap (now that Terminal Twilight has been...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
22
Wicked Witch of the West
35m. A direct finish to The Witching Hour. Climb The Witching Hour to a good rest at the large undercut flake. Climb direct up...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6b
23
Bloody Sunday Top 50
35m. This magnificent Pembrokeshire classic should have a place on everyone’s tick list. Arguments over its grade will continue...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
24
Just Another Day Top 50
35m. The right-most climb on the wall is another classic which is probably best combined with Scorch the Earth. Start at the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
25
Scorch the Earth
35m. A well-positioned route which provides an excellent variation finish to either of the previous two routes. From the rest...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For HUNTSMAN'S LEAP

    Snake Charmer
    "Harder than headhunter (E5 6a)to get to the crux then without any decent rests y..." 22/Jul

    The Honey Monster
    "Cracking atmospheric route in the depths of the Leap. Great second pitch with a ..." 13/Jun

    Mythical Monster
    "I was also a little underwhelmed by this route" 01/Sep

    Mythical Monster
    "I thought this was low in the grade, and something of anticlimax after what I'd ..." 31/Aug

    Head Hunter
    "if bloody sunday is given E4 then this feels definitely a full grade harder. so ..." 30/Apr top50

    Head Hunter
    "Definitely not high in the grade or particularly bold, great gear where you need..." 10/Mar top50

    The Minotaur
    "certainly reachy, but ridiculously well protected, and only one move, even if it..." 31/Aug top50

    Moving Away from the Pulsebeat
    "Brilliant route. Tough for E4. Take a good selection of microwires." 10/Aug

    Bloody Sunday
    "It's possible (and arguably better) to finish diagonally leftwards to the top, r..." 17/Jun top50

    Specimen Hunter
    "Pretty hard and sustained for E4, probably worth E5. Gear is good but fiddly an..." 16/Jun

    Monster-growth from the Underbeast
    "This route relies on fixed gear. The third thread has nearly pulled through and ..." 15/Jun

    Vladimir on the Rocks
    "deserves to get done a lot more often than it appears to. Excellent, technical a..." 28/May

    Just Another Day
    "I agree - much harder than bloody sunday (and usually less chalked!!)- at least ..." 28/May top50

    Night-Seeker
    "There is a peg in the groove which is in poor condition. The drilled peg was on ..." 14/Apr

    Shape-Up
    "I found this MUCH harder than Beast, much more strenuous & far more sustaine..." 20/Dec

    Shape-Up
    "A beer towel would be useful to dry off the footholds at the start (which can be..." 05/Aug

    Shape-Up
    "The first groove is a bit tricky; the route, overall, pleasantly sustained. Felt..." 21/May

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