West Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
8 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

The landward end of the pink west (right looking out) wall contains some of the most accessible and popular hard routes in Pembroke. The main characteristics are the crack of The Minotaur, the (usually) well-chalked line of Head Hunter above the centre of the large block, and the popular line of Bloody Sunday. The finishes of all of these routes require care with loose rock and some tricky vegetable cornices.
The seaward end of the West Wall is awesomely steep and impressive and contains one of the most stunning set of hard traditional routes to be found anywhere. Some of the routes relied on fixed gear but most have now been climbed without this gear, however an abseil inspection is advised for some of the routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Woeful
A classic E5 and one on which you don't have to worry about any dodgy bits of fixed gear. Start next to the pool under the...
 
3 Stars
E5
2
Darkness at Noon
An amazing climb which takes a wild line up the seaward end of the wall. The conditions of this route seem to vary from...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E5
3
Night-Seeker
The towering groove above the ramp gives a BIG pitch which needs re-climbing now the drilled old pegs have gone. Start up the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
E6
4
Hunter-Killer
This magnificent route follows the pocketed crack line above the right-hand side of the ramp. The climbing is physical but well...
 
3 Stars
Strong
E6
5
Nothing to Fear
A huge climb which tackles the left-hand of two groove/runnels. Climb the lower wall (good small wires) to the roof (small...
 
3 Stars
Strong
E8
6
Terminal Twilight
An ascent of the snaking runnel is a magnificent achievement. A strenuous struggle from the word go; the gear is good but...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E7
7
Dusk Till Dawn
Follow Terminal Twilight to a hole. SPan out right than make moves up to a crack. Climb this then pull up to a hole and poor...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E8
8
The Black Lagoon
The left-hand direct start to the finishing groove of Witch Hunt. Start under the runnel which is gained via a flake and some...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E7
9
Light at the End of the Runnel
Yet another stupendous climb which reaches the upper section of Witch Hunt via two prominent hollows. Climb up to the first...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E6
10
Little Hunt
The direct version of Witch Hunt in one pitch. Start as for Light at the End of the Runnel, but break out right from holds on...
 
2 Stars
E6
11
Witch Hunt
The original line up this bit of wall which is slightly spoilt by the crux move being much harder than the rest.1) 6b,...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4
12
Chupacabra
A very bold climb. From the rest in the scoop after the crux of Witch Hunt, pull out right and climb the bold wall above to a...
 
3 Stars
E8
13
Boat to Naxos
An extremely bold undertaking. From the peg in the flake on Witch Hunt, step right and climb a scoop. Pull up onto the wall...
 
3 Stars
E7
14
Souls
A solid E6. The crucial fixed gear is now in very poor condition and is difficult to back up. Start as for Witch Hunt but move...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
E6
15
Half Man, Half Beast
An intricate line up the big blank wall right of Souls. Start from midway between Souls and the block. Climb up to a break...
 
2 Stars
Strong
E6
16
The Minotaur Top 50
A superb route that is low in the grade. The first half is serious and the big move at the top is entirely dependent on reach,...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E5
17
Theseus
For aspirant Minotaur-slayers - the superdirect finish. Climb Minotaur until the jugs after its crux. Place bomber gear in the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
18
The Subterranean
A very bold and serious route up the brown wall left of Head Hunter that is high in the grade. The two pegs are poor and there...
 
2 Stars
E6
19
Head Hunter Top 50
The rising line of cracks and blobs gives a wonderful pitch. The moves to reach the central ramp are quite committing. Climb...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
E5
20
Snake Charmer
The cluster of tat with a bale-out krab on it marks the crux, although reaching it is no picnic.1) 6c, 15m. Climb to the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5
21
The White Hotel
The elegant open groove is seldom climbed.1) 6b, 15m. Climb the groove. Where it ends make hard moves up to eventually...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6
22
The Witching Hour
Extremely bold and difficult to onsight and probably the hardest E6 in the Leap. It follows the wall mid-way between White...
 
1 Stars
E6
23
Wicked Witch of the West
A direct finish to The Witching Hour. Climb The Witching Hour to a good rest at the large undercut flake. Climb direct up the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6
24
Bloody Sunday Top 50
This magnificent Pembrokeshire classic should have a place on everyone's tick list. Arguments over its grade will continue for...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
E4
25
Just Another Day Top 50
The right-most climb on the wall is another classic which is probably best combined with Scorch the Earth. Start at the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
26
Scorch the Earth
A well-positioned route which provides an excellent variation finish to either of the previous two routes. From the rest on...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For HUNTSMAN'S LEAP

    The Pulsebeat
    "Changed from E6 6b ** to E5 6b **, 100% of 1 vote for E5" 08/Jun

    Head Hunter
    "The run outs and the fact people generally find it harder than bloody Sunday mea..." 31/May top50

    Shape-Up
    "The worst route I've done in Pembroke. A muddy gully with awkward climbing and a..." 05/Aug

    Snake Charmer
    "Harder than headhunter (E5 6a)to get to the crux then without any decent rests y..." 22/Jul

    The Honey Monster
    "Cracking atmospheric route in the depths of the Leap. Great second pitch with a ..." 13/Jun

    Mythical Monster
    "I was also a little underwhelmed by this route" 01/Sep

    Mythical Monster
    "I thought this was low in the grade, and something of anticlimax after what I'd ..." 31/Aug

    Head Hunter
    "if bloody sunday is given E4 then this feels definitely a full grade harder. so ..." 30/Apr top50

    Head Hunter
    "Definitely not high in the grade or particularly bold, great gear where you need..." 10/Mar top50

    The Minotaur
    "certainly reachy, but ridiculously well protected, and only one move, even if it..." 31/Aug top50

    Moving Away from the Pulsebeat
    "Brilliant route. Tough for E4. Take a good selection of microwires." 10/Aug

    Bloody Sunday
    "It's possible (and arguably better) to finish diagonally leftwards to the top, r..." 17/Jun top50

    Specimen Hunter
    "Pretty hard and sustained for E4, probably worth E5. Gear is good but fiddly an..." 16/Jun

    Monster-growth from the Underbeast
    "This route relies on fixed gear. The third thread has nearly pulled through and ..." 15/Jun

    Vladimir on the Rocks
    "deserves to get done a lot more often than it appears to. Excellent, technical a..." 28/May

    Just Another Day
    "I agree - much harder than bloody sunday (and usually less chalked!!)- at least ..." 28/May top50

    Night-Seeker
    "There is a peg in the groove which is in poor condition. The drilled peg was on ..." 14/Apr

    Shape-Up
    "I found this MUCH harder than Beast, much more strenuous & far more sustaine..." 20/Dec

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