Adjacent Areas
< West Wall | None >
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
10 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
Range East - usually closed mid-week
Most people's first climbs in the Leap are on the landward end of the East (left looking out) Wall on the Quiet Waters Area. The routes here tend to be a bit easier and less committing than on the Monster Face or the West Wall yet they still should not be underestimated. Before you abseil in you should at least be certain of being able to climb 'Shape-Up' or 'The Beast from the Undergrowth' since these are the easiest escape routes. The Monster Face is the well named seaward end of the East Wall. The climbing here tends to be intricate and mysterious with most of the routes following complex lines up the wall. It is difficult to get a good view of the wall since you can't really stand back from it, but the upper sections of most of the routes can be figured out from a grassy knoll above the West Wall. Guidebook page 130.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Magazine People 32m. The best route on this bit of wall has climbing much more in keeping with the fingery start which was the original way of... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E5 6b |
2 |
Specimen Hunter 32m. A slightly easier method of climbing the wall which gives good technical climbing. From the third thread on Magazine... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy | E5 6b |
3 |
Quiet Waters Direct 32m. Originally this route started in the same place as Magazine People, but it is much better to start at the arete just left... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E3 5c |
4 |
Shape-Up 33m. The easiest climb in the Leap gives good climbing up the groove line right of the smooth brown wall. From the top of the... 9 user comments | 2 Stars | E1 5b |
5 |
Fitzcarraldo 35m. This popular E5 has a hard start and a bold finish. Start just left of Shape-Up below some pockets and cracks. Climb these... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
6 |
Slap-Up/Fitz-In 35m. A combination of filler-in routes that may now be bolder due to the peg being old. The lower section follows the open... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
7 |
Wrap-Up 35m. An enjoyable route up the crack left of the flake of Beast from the Undergrowth. From the top of the crack pull over the... | 1 Stars | E3 6a |
8 |
The Beast from the Undergrowth 35m. This is probably the most popular route in the Leap, it starts at the big flake/groove left of the smooth black wall. Step... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E2 5b |
9 |
The Pulsebeat 35m. The stunning lower black wall has some unlikely climbing which is protected by threads - check them before your ascent... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
10 |
Compulsion 35m. This very serious route follows the striking arete on its left-hand side to a junction with Moving Away.... The gear is... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6a |
11 |
Moving Away from the Pulsebeat 37m. The first half of this climb gives some good sustained climbing. Step out of the groove of Strap-Up at its first roof.... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
12 |
Strap-Up 37m. The route up the big corner which runs the full height of the wall is a strenuous undertaking. Climb the groove all the... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
13 |
Vladimir on the Rocks 37m. This one follows the remains of the once-classic Vladimir and the Beast. Start right of Strap-Up up a crack, and trend... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
14 |
Monsterosity Good climbing but may now be more serious due to the missing peg.1) 5c, 15m. Climb the grey flake and then move left to a... | 2 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
15 |
Monster-growth from the Underbeast The left arete of the Monster Face gives a big steep climb in an impressive position.1) 5c, 15m. Gain the poor belay on... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
16 |
Monster Modello A good climb with a short difficult section that feels a bit bold.1) 5c, 15m. Climb 'Monsterosity' to the poor belay.2)... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6a |
17 |
The Monster Mash A complex route up the wall above the grey flake.1) 5c, 15m. Climb the flake then move up and rightwards into an open... | 1 Stars | E3 6a |
18 |
Mythical Monster The most popular on the face. The climbing is never very hard but the situation is intimidating. It can be climbed in one... 5 user comments | 2 Stars | E2 5c |
19 |
The Honey Monster The easiest route up the face gives a popular and unusual excursion.1) 5b, 25m. As for Mythical Monster to its step right... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | E2 5b |
20 |
Meet the Monster Tonight The best route on the wall has a superb first pitch which is sometimes covered with unclimbable slime.1) 6a, 15m. Start 5m... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
21 |
Release the Bats Now things start getting really weird! Start just left of the pool at dead low tide, beneath the landward boulder choke. 1)... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6a |
22 |
The Ducking Stool An amazing route with a leg splitting first pitch. The rock can be drier than it looks, which is lucky. Start as for Release... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
