East Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
10 mins
Abseil
Tidal

Range East - usually closed mid-week


Most people's first climbs in the Leap are on the landward end of the East (left looking out) Wall on the Quiet Waters Area. The routes here tend to be a bit easier and less committing than on the Monster Face or the West Wall yet they still should not be underestimated. Before you abseil in you should at least be certain of being able to climb 'Shape-Up' or 'The Beast from the Undergrowth' since these are the easiest escape routes. The Monster Face is the well named seaward end of the East Wall. The climbing here tends to be intricate and mysterious with most of the routes following complex lines up the wall. It is difficult to get a good view of the wall since you can't really stand back from it, but the upper sections of most of the routes can be figured out from a grassy knoll above the West Wall. Guidebook page 130.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Magazine People
32m. The best route on this bit of wall has climbing much more in keeping with the fingery start which was the original way of...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6b
2
Specimen Hunter
32m. A slightly easier method of climbing the wall which gives good technical climbing. From the third thread on Magazine...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E5 6b
3
Quiet Waters Direct
32m. Originally this route started in the same place as Magazine People, but it is much better to start at the arete just left...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
4
Shape-Up
33m. The easiest climb in the Leap gives good climbing up the groove line right of the smooth brown wall. From the top of the...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
5
Fitzcarraldo
35m. This popular E5 has a hard start and a bold finish. Start just left of Shape-Up below some pockets and cracks. Climb these...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
6
Slap-Up/Fitz-In
35m. A combination of filler-in routes that may now be bolder due to the peg being old. The lower section follows the open...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
7
Wrap-Up
35m. An enjoyable route up the crack left of the flake of Beast from the Undergrowth. From the top of the crack pull over the...
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
8
The Beast from the Undergrowth
35m. This is probably the most popular route in the Leap, it starts at the big flake/groove left of the smooth black wall. Step...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5b
9
The Pulsebeat
35m. The stunning lower black wall has some unlikely climbing which is protected by threads - check them before your ascent...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
10
Compulsion
35m. This very serious route follows the striking arete on its left-hand side to a junction with Moving Away.... The gear is...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6a
11
Moving Away from the Pulsebeat
37m. The first half of this climb gives some good sustained climbing. Step out of the groove of Strap-Up at its first roof....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
12
Strap-Up
37m. The route up the big corner which runs the full height of the wall is a strenuous undertaking. Climb the groove all the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
13
Vladimir on the Rocks
37m. This one follows the remains of the once-classic Vladimir and the Beast. Start right of Strap-Up up a crack, and trend...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
14
Monsterosity
Good climbing but may now be more serious due to the missing peg.1) 5c, 15m. Climb the grey flake and then move left to a...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
15
Monster-growth from the Underbeast
The left arete of the Monster Face gives a big steep climb in an impressive position.1) 5c, 15m. Gain the poor belay on...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
16
Monster Modello
A good climb with a short difficult section that feels a bit bold.1) 5c, 15m. Climb 'Monsterosity' to the poor belay.2)...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6a
17
The Monster Mash
A complex route up the wall above the grey flake.1) 5c, 15m. Climb the flake then move up and rightwards into an open...
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
18
Mythical Monster
The most popular on the face. The climbing is never very hard but the situation is intimidating. It can be climbed in one...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2 5c
19
The Honey Monster
The easiest route up the face gives a popular and unusual excursion.1) 5b, 25m. As for Mythical Monster to its step right...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
20
Meet the Monster Tonight
The best route on the wall has a superb first pitch which is sometimes covered with unclimbable slime.1) 6a, 15m. Start 5m...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
21
Release the Bats
Now things start getting really weird! Start just left of the pool at dead low tide, beneath the landward boulder choke. 1)...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6a
22
The Ducking Stool
An amazing route with a leg splitting first pitch. The rock can be drier than it looks, which is lucky. Start as for Release...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
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  • Latest Comments

    For HUNTSMAN'S LEAP

    Snake Charmer
    "Harder than headhunter (E5 6a)to get to the crux then without any decent rests y..." 22/Jul

    The Honey Monster
    "Cracking atmospheric route in the depths of the Leap. Great second pitch with a ..." 13/Jun

    Mythical Monster
    "I was also a little underwhelmed by this route" 01/Sep

    Mythical Monster
    "I thought this was low in the grade, and something of anticlimax after what I'd ..." 31/Aug

    Head Hunter
    "if bloody sunday is given E4 then this feels definitely a full grade harder. so ..." 30/Apr top50

    Head Hunter
    "Definitely not high in the grade or particularly bold, great gear where you need..." 10/Mar top50

    The Minotaur
    "certainly reachy, but ridiculously well protected, and only one move, even if it..." 31/Aug top50

    Moving Away from the Pulsebeat
    "Brilliant route. Tough for E4. Take a good selection of microwires." 10/Aug

    Bloody Sunday
    "It's possible (and arguably better) to finish diagonally leftwards to the top, r..." 17/Jun top50

    Specimen Hunter
    "Pretty hard and sustained for E4, probably worth E5. Gear is good but fiddly an..." 16/Jun

    Monster-growth from the Underbeast
    "This route relies on fixed gear. The third thread has nearly pulled through and ..." 15/Jun

    Vladimir on the Rocks
    "deserves to get done a lot more often than it appears to. Excellent, technical a..." 28/May

    Just Another Day
    "I agree - much harder than bloody sunday (and usually less chalked!!)- at least ..." 28/May top50

    Night-Seeker
    "There is a peg in the groove which is in poor condition. The drilled peg was on ..." 14/Apr

    Shape-Up
    "I found this MUCH harder than Beast, much more strenuous & far more sustaine..." 20/Dec

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