The Butcher

Adjacent Areas
< Army Dreamers  |  Test Case >

Lots of sun!
5 mins

One of the most popular walls in Pembroke is dominated by the big arete of The Butcher. All the routes here are worth doing although most pack a punch and should not be underestimated. This is not a good place to start your Pembroke career yet often it turns to be just that for many first time visitors.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
Up Against the Wall
25m. Climb the harder-than-it-looks lower wall to gain a niche and finish direct. Not as well protected as you might think.
1 user comment
HVS 5a
25n. Start just left of the arete and follow the crack to the top. Variation, E1 5b - traverse right from high on the route to...
7 user comments
1 Stars
VS 5a
The Butcher Top 50
25m. Easy E3 or hard E2, the discussions will go on for ever - this time we have gone with the harder grade, next time, who...
11 user comments
3 Stars
E3 5c
Vice is Nice
25m. Steep climbing up the left-hand of the two cracks under the abseil. It can be dirty but is good when clean and dry.
5 user comments
1 Stars
E2 5b
But Incest is Best
25m. The right-hand crack is equally popular but tends to be a little dirtier if anything due to it being right in the abseil...
3 user comments
1 Stars
E1 5b
25m. The route up the left-hand side of the open corner tends to be too dirty to be much fun. High in the grade.
1 user comment
 VS 4c
25m. The right-hand side of the corner is not as dirty as Gandhi. It sees few ascents but is a useful grade for this crag. The...
1 Stars
S 4a
The Loosener
25m. To the right of the open corner is a blunt arete which is undercut on its right-hand side. This route follows the crack to...
8 user comments
1 Stars
HVS 5a
Clean Hand Blues Band
25m. A popular route which is often found hard by people who climb it too directly. Start just left of the detached flake on...
6 user comments
2 Stars
E1 5b
25m. Climb the groove above the large detached flake/block.
1 user comment
 HVS 5a
  • Access Issues for Pembroke

  • Latest Comments

    For ST GOVAN'S

    The Call Up
    "This route is just as hideously hard as it looks. I couldn't even second it clea..." 07/Oct

    "Good solid Pembroke E2 albeit in a pleasant way.........what I mean is that it's..." 20/Dec top50

    "Certainly tough for a Pembroke E2" 29/Aug

    Zero Hour
    "HVS is right but there is a hard boulder start for the grade. The rest is a path..." 07/Jun

    "Good holds except just where you need them: unobvious 5c crux and worth E3 overa..." 01/Jun

    Tangerine Dream
    "I'd say not very safe. A decent looking rock 2 pulled through its placement when..." 24/May top50

    Clean Hand Blues Band
    "Found the pull into the crack really hard (especially after the polished lower t..." 13/May

    Range Rider
    "i spurned the gonads and went slightly further left for the crux!" 16/Apr

    Search for comments