Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Level
5 minsWindy
One of the most popular walls in Pembroke is dominated by the big arete of The Butcher. All the routes here are worth doing although most pack a punch and should not be underestimated. This is not a good place to start your Pembroke career yet often it turns to be just that for many first time visitors. Guidebook page 176.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Up Against the Wall 25m. Climb the harder-than-it-looks lower wall to gain a niche and finish direct. Not as well protected as you might think. 1 user comment | Fluttery | HVS 5a |
2 |
Chieftain 25n. Start just left of the arete and follow the crack to the top. Variation, E1 5b - traverse right from high on the route to... 7 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 5a |
3 |
The Butcher Top 50 25m. Easy E3 or hard E2, the discussions will go on for ever - this time we have gone with the harder grade, next time, who... 10 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
4 |
Vice is Nice 25m. Steep climbing up the left-hand of the two cracks under the abseil. It can be dirty but is good when clean and dry. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
5 |
But Incest is Best 25m. The right-hand crack is equally popular but tends to be a little dirtier if anything due to it being right in the abseil... 3 user comments | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
6 |
Gandhi 25m. The route up the left-hand side of the open corner tends to be too dirty to be much fun. High in the grade. 1 user comment | VS 4c | |
7 |
Centurion 25m. The right-hand side of the corner is not as dirty as Gandhi. It sees few ascents but is a useful grade for this crag. The... | 1 Stars | S 4a |
8 |
The Loosener 25m. To the right of the open corner is a blunt arete which is undercut on its right-hand side. This route follows the crack to... 8 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | HVS 5a |
9 |
Clean Hand Blues Band 25m. A popular route which is often found hard by people who climb it too directly. Start just left of the detached flake on... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | E1 5b |
10 |
Munchies 25m. Climb the groove above the large detached flake/block. 1 user comment | HVS 5a | |
