The Butcher

Adjacent Areas
< Army Dreamers  |  Test Case >

Trad
Sun and Shade
8 mins
Level

One of the most popular walls in Pembroke is dominated by the big arete of The Butcher. All the routes here are worth doing although most pack a punch and should not be underestimated. This is not a good place to start your Pembroke career yet often it turns to be just that for many first time visitors.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Up Against the Wall
Climb the harder-than-it-looks lower wall to gain a niche and finish direct. Not as well protected as you might think.
1 user comment
 HVS
2
Chieftain
Start just left of the arete and follow the crack to the top. Variation, E1 5b - traverse right from high on the route to reach...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
3
The Butcher Top 50
Easy E3 or hard E2, the discussions will go on for ever. Start below the arete and climb a crack in its right-hand side. Make a...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
E3
4
Vice is Nice
Steep climbing up the left-hand of the two cracks under the abseil. It can be dirty but is good when clean and dry.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2
5
But Incest is Best
The right-hand crack is equally popular but tends to be a little dirtier if anything due to it being right in the abseil line.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
6
Gandhi
The route up the left-hand side of the open corner tends to be too dirty to be much fun. High in the grade.
1 user comment
 VS
7
Centurion
The right-hand side of the corner is not as dirty as Gandhi. It sees few ascents but is a useful grade for this crag. The pull...
 
1 Stars
S
8
The Loosener
To the right of the open corner is a blunt arete which is undercut on its right-hand side. This route follows the crack to the...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
9
Clean Hand Blues Band
A popular route which is often found hard by people who climb it too directly. Start just left of the detached flake on the...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E2
10
Munchies
Climb the groove above the large detached flake/block.
1 user comment
 HVS
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For ST GOVAN'S

    Charisma
    "Changed from E4 6a * to E3 6a *, 0% of 2 votes for E3" 05/Jun

    The Call Up
    "This route is just as hideously hard as it looks. I couldn't even second it clea..." 07/Oct

    Deranged
    "Good solid Pembroke E2 albeit in a pleasant way.........what I mean is that it's..." 20/Dec top50

    Photocall
    "Certainly tough for a Pembroke E2" 29/Aug

    Zero Hour
    "HVS is right but there is a hard boulder start for the grade. The rest is a path..." 07/Jun

    Photocall
    "Good holds except just where you need them: unobvious 5c crux and worth E3 overa..." 01/Jun

    Tangerine Dream
    "I'd say not very safe. A decent looking rock 2 pulled through its placement when..." 24/May top50

    Clean Hand Blues Band
    "Found the pull into the crack really hard (especially after the polished lower t..." 13/May

    Search for comments