Wicked Gravity Area

Adjacent Areas
< Range Rider  |  Public Enemy Area >

Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
12 mins
Abseil
Tidal
Sheltered
Restricted Access

Birds - No climbing 1 March to 31 July


This massive bulging wall has a large corner on its left and a long loose corner in its centre with a horizontal scoop in the wall to the left. It has a set of extremely hard and sustained wall climbs that see few ascents.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Goad
The big corner is probably best known as the limit of the bird restriction.1) 5a, 20m. Climb the corner to a belay on...
 HVS 5a
2
Wicked Gravity
The first of the big routes at this end of the cliff is a stunning, bold and committing lead. Start right of the corner of...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
3
Equilibrium
A wonderful and exciting experience up the scoops and tubes on the right-hand side of the wall. Start 3m right of 'Wicked...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
4
Equipoise
Another scary climb with committing moves up the arete. From 'Equilibrium' climb the runnel rightwards to the arete. Clip the...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
5
Gorilla Action
The steep wall right of the tottering corner gets almost a full set of symbols. Well strenny! Start 10m left of the large...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
6
Janus
Steep, bold and superb - just like all the others! Start midway between the vertical cave and 'Gorilla Action'. Pull straight...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6a
7
Skyraider
At last a relatively easy route. Start below the tall cave to the right of the steep wall.1) 20m. Climb into the cave then...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For ST. GOVAN'S

    Deranged
    "Good solid Pembroke E2 albeit in a pleasant way.........what I mean is that it's..." 20/Dec top50

    Photocall
    "Certainly tough for a Pembroke E2" 29/Aug

    Zero Hour
    "HVS is right but there is a hard boulder start for the grade. The rest is a path..." 07/Jun

    Photocall
    "Good holds except just where you need them: unobvious 5c crux and worth E3 overa..." 01/Jun

    Tangerine Dream
    "I'd say not very safe. A decent looking rock 2 pulled through its placement when..." 24/May top50

    Clean Hand Blues Band
    "Found the pull into the crack really hard (especially after the polished lower t..." 13/May

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