Public Enemy Area

Adjacent Areas
< Wicked Gravity Area  |  None >

Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
15 mins
Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access

No climbing due to loose rock


This area has suffered a major rockfall in December 2005. Most of the central section has fallen down destorying many of the big hard routes. The remaining rock face is very unstable with cracks visible above the cliff. Please keep away.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Lost Leaders
A good route up above the left-hand side of the narrow cave and grooves above, in one long pitch. Climb into the cave then move...
 
2 Stars
E3 5c
2
Teacher's Pet
The direct line up the cave. Bridge all the way up the cave to a large nut runner at the top. Pull onto the wall above and...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
3
Face Value
This is probably the most popular route at this end of St. Govan's. The 1st pitch is superb and the 2nd pitch is well...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E2 5c
4
The Stranger
A direct route which supersedes an old route called 'Visage' by climbing straight where it traversed. Start on a block below...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
5
Please Sir
A typical 'Gibson' find up the sharp arete right of 'Face Value'. Start on a block underneath the arete.1) 25m. Pull over...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
6
Public Enemy
Fallen down.A magnificent challenge which is one of Pembroke's great ticks. The climbing is bold, the line is intricate and...
 
3 Stars
Loose
E5 6b
7
Crime of the Century
Fallen down.A mega hard direct version of 'Public Enemy'. Start below the initial shallow groove which 'Public Enemy'...
 
3 Stars
Loose
E6 6c
8
Crime and Punishment
Fallen down.The main line of the wall is the long rugged crack which leads straight to the apex of the arch roof. Start...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Loose
E5 6b
9
War and Peace/Raskolnikov
Fallen down.Well it has been done and although it will never become a classic, because of its grade, it is one of the most...
 
3 Stars
Loose
E7 6c
10
Crimes of Passion
Fallen down.The last crime route gains a thin crack in the smooth head wall via a steep and bold lower pitch. Start just...
 
3 Stars
Loose
E6 6b
11
Stray Bullet
Start on a large boulder, beneath a rightwards leaning groove, just left of the square cave.1) 20m. Climb the left arete of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
12
Passion
An excellent route at a slightly more amenable grade and for once it isn't bold. Start just left of the square cave, below a...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
E4 6a
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For ST. GOVAN'S

    Deranged
    "Good solid Pembroke E2 albeit in a pleasant way.........what I mean is that it's..." 20/Dec top50

    Photocall
    "Certainly tough for a Pembroke E2" 29/Aug

    Zero Hour
    "HVS is right but there is a hard boulder start for the grade. The rest is a path..." 07/Jun

    Photocall
    "Good holds except just where you need them: unobvious 5c crux and worth E3 overa..." 01/Jun

    Tangerine Dream
    "I'd say not very safe. A decent looking rock 2 pulled through its placement when..." 24/May top50

    Clean Hand Blues Band
    "Found the pull into the crack really hard (especially after the polished lower t..." 13/May

    Range Rider
    "i spurned the gonads and went slightly further left for the crux!" 16/Apr

    Hangover '77
    "From the bottom it looks harder than it actually is. I'm not saying it's not pum..." 06/Apr

    Tangerine Dream
    "Aptly titled, a dream of a route. Very safe & therefore a good choice for pu..." 01/Sep top50

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