The Toy Wall

Adjacent Areas
< L'Horla  |  The Eliminates Wall >

Trad
Early morning sun
8 mins
Level
Windy

A series of short problems on impeccable rock. As you might expect, most of the routes feel hard for the grade and, despite their diminutive size, many also manage to be bold. The occasional (tough) crack climb does give slight relief from bold technical face routes.
Approach (see map on page 405) - From the gate at the start of the green drive follow the track for 450m then slant left to reach the edge of the Eliminates Wall, descend here and walk under the face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tin Drum
The thin crack on the left side of the wall is technical and bold. It has a high runner and some tough moves.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
2
Be Bop Delux
From the same start as Tin Drum, step out right and climb the wall with difficulty. It eases, eventually.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
3
The Toy
The thin crack splitting the centre of the wall gives elegant, fingery climbing and really packs it in. The most popular route...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
4
Bok
The wall between The Toy and Plaything is supposed to be protected by a solitary micro-wire!
 
Technical
E5
5
Plaything
The arete is another bold one. Start just left then trend right and beware the reachy finish and gritty footholds.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2
6
Pretty Face
The narrow face right of the chimney on small finger-holds.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
7
October Crack
Steep parallel cracks give awkward or pleasant jamming depending on your outlook. A traditional Curbar Hard Severe - so enough...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
8
Shallow Chimney
The eponymous rift is the easiest climb for miles and miles and even it has an awkward exit!
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
9
Grey Face
An oddly-named thin crack. Awkward though safe enough with fiddly gear and perhaps easier if you can keep moving.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
10
Thirst for Glory
A fairly unremarkable wall climb. Head first left then right to finish at a tiny crack. A dodgy spike and some wires protect.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
11
Pale Complexion
The right arete of the wall on its left-hand side. Start up a crack (fiddly small wires) then follow the arete throughout.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS