Stennis Ford Routes

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Trad
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

An impressive zawn with some poor rock but a sensational west wall that is home to some of the hardest routes around.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Skelis
16m. From the left end of the ledge, climb leftwards and up, to gain a slim groove. Follow this to the depression, and...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6b S1
2
Goblets
16m. The big groove. From the left end of the ledge, climb up the deep groove above, to finish in a depression. Scramble out...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
5a S2
3
Bingo Master's Breakout
21m. Excellent, and with a very low crux. Start on the accommodating ledge. Traverse rightwards and down slightly, crux, to...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
7a S2
4
Living on Air
21m. This excellent existing route still awaits a solo. From a bench seat belay close to the HWM, climb the lower face,...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
Fluttery
7b+ S3
5
Overexposed
21m. A real beauty. The holds just get bigger the higher you climb - very convenient! Tackle the curling line (low crux) and...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
Fluttery
6c S2
6
Feersum Endjin
23m. A spicy offering. From small ledges above the HWM, head off up a leftward-leading flake. Harder climbing awaits above,...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b S3
7
Excession
22m. This striking line starts from a belay quite a way above the HWM, so is a little more convenient to get going on. From the...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
7a+ S3
8
Questions and Answers
Good climbing but high in the grade, and take lots of small wires. Start left of the smooth wall from blocks below a large...
 
1 Stars
E4
9
The Warsaw Pact
A weaving line up the arete to the left of the smooth wall. Start from boulders below a short crack. Climb the crack and groove...
 
1 Stars
E5
10
From a Distance
Originally climbed with some bits of drilled gear, the right-hand side of the smooth wall now gives an awesome route which has...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E7
11
Point Blank
The dramatic wall left of From a Distance. Very sustained climbing (F8a) with long run-outs, however a huge drop zone means...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E8
12
Hysteria
One star for the top pitch. The first pitch has some frightening and hard moves on shattered rock. Combining pitch 1 of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E5
13
Suspense
Sustained and well protected where it matters and easily as good as Mysteries. Start at a small scoop left of Mysteries.1)...
 
3 Stars
E4
14
Mysteries
After a hard start the most famous route in the Ford gives steady HVS climbing up the impressive scoop-line. The lack of grade...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E3
15
Muy Caliente!
A very serious route with crucial gear placements. Climb the initial wall on Ghost Train past flakes (very low thread) to the...
 
3 Stars
E10
16
Ghost Train
This route looks okay until you abseil down it. It is only then that you realise how steep the wall is. Has been described as a...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
E6
17
The Shield
22m. This magnificent line takes the immaculate grey pillar of rock jutting from the Ford's East Face. A lengthy rightwards...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+ S2
18
The Stennis Traverse
25m. The lower traverse on this face, starting from the beach, is a fine route in its own right, although it's a little sharp...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c+ S0
19
The Stennis Traverse Extension
85m (total). The currently unclimbed, lengthy extension of the above traverse seeks to conquer the first crux around the right...
1 user comment
 
DWS
7c S0
20
Exultation
18m. A really classy DWS face climb; a must-do. Swing around the base of the Godliness 'bowl', to find yourself under a bulging...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6b+ S2
21
Gateaux Thief
18m. Good, hard, and yet to be repeated. Tucked in between the 'bowl' cave and Exultation is this daring proposition up the...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b S3
22
The Heckler
16m. A precarious and demanding line. Climb Godliness past its crux (exiting the bowl), then traverse into the wide upper scoop...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
6c+ S2
23
Godliness
16m. A well-positioned feature. Nip up the upper right wall of the bowl-shaped cave to a horizontal break, and keep on...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
6a S2
24
Clean Ass
17m. The left groove variation of Cleanliness is a little harder than the mother route (see below). Expect a low and obvious...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
6b+ S1
25
Cleanliness
17m. Another good helping. Drop down out of the Godliness cave and traverse right for a few metres, then make hard moves up and...
 
1 Stars
DWS
6a+ S1
26
N'Butabit
17m. An easy one, would you believe? From Way Out! climb up the groove, swing boldly onto the left face, and move on up the...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
5a S1
27
Way Out! Top 50
16m. Just insane! Massive holds throughout, ascending an almost pillar-like feature that can be observed from the other side of...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
3+ S1
28
Flashing Eyebrows
17m. This crinkly line ascends the attractive, slim orange groove to the right of the last route. Named after a Bristolian with...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
Crimpy
6a S1
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  • Latest Comments

    For STENNIS FORD

    The Stennis Traverse Extension
    "Changed from S0 to 7c S0, no votes" 08/Jun

    Ghost Train
    "Well done Frank and Geg you are among the few this is a big lead hat off I shoul..." 02/Oct

    Ghost Train
    "After three of us did this yesterday, and lengthy debate, we reckoned E6 6a is a..." 10/May

    Mysteries
    "An impressive line, with an exciting but protectable first 10m. The rest is a bi..." 04/Sep

    From a Distance
    "F7c and a grade of E6 6b implies hard, but safe. This route is actually pretty b..." 15/Jun

    Ghost Train
    "This route should not be underestimated. Gets E7 in the CC guide. If you don't m..." 14/Apr

    Hysteria
    "The first pitch is really dodgy at the moment. I did it on a shunt last week an..." 11/Jul

    Mysteries
    "A fine old rambling mountaineering type adventure. Probably E2 as the interestin..." 10/Apr

    Mysteries
    "Well hard start with crux at about 7m (small wires/cams). very good route though..." 07/Apr

    Ghost Train
    "8 threads and a spicey runout. F7a+ climbing. E5?" 29/Sep

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