Ultravixens Buttress

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Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
5 mins
Tidal
Restricted Access

No climbing 1 Mar to 31 July (Birds)


The main two routes are situated on a narrow buttress with an undercut start. This is at the left-hand (looking in) end of the ledge below the face, just to the right of a large roof. At the bottom of the buttress is a narrow projecting block. Guidebook page 154.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Weekend Warrior
28m. A good, sustained pitch. Climb the low rib, then traverse leftwards just above the overhang, to gain the crack in the face...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
2
Ultravox
26m. This is only slightly harder than Ultravixens and equally as good. Climb Ultravixens over the initial roof, into the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
3
Ultravixens
26m. A popular route which is another one on the Pembroke 'tick-n-go' list. Start beneath the narrow projecting block. Climb up...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
4
Missing Lynx
26m. A good climb, start as for Blockheads. Climb the crack for 3m and place some gear above. Move left into a blunt flakeline...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
5
Blockheads
27m. The long crack gives an interesting route. Climb the crack to a small roof and pull over this with difficulty. Continue...
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
6
Green Peace
28m. Start about 3m right of Blockheads. Climb up and rightwards, swinging back left to gain the corner above. Climb this to...
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
7
Octobrina
Some good climbing, and at a consistent grade.1) 5b, 16m. Climb the lower slab to a thin crack, use this to get to better...
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
8
Promised Hand
30m. The original line of the two, with some great positions. Itís possible to split it at two places in order to reduce rope...
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
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  • Latest Comments

    For CHAPEL POINT

    Ultravox
    "Don't understand the previous comment: it does get a (well deserved) fluttery he..." 01/Sep

    Ultravox
    "I think it should get a fluttery heart symbol - there is no indication in the de..." 05/Aug

    Ultravox
    "Agreed, it's pretty bold" 26/Apr

    Ultravixens
    "A good route - it's pretty strenuous getting the runner in to protect the move t..." 01/May

    Ultravox
    "This may be only slightly harder, but it seems much more difficult to protect. I..." 09/Oct

    Ultravixens
    "Benchmark E1 and an excellent route to boot. Crux is the crack below the final ..." 04/Jul

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